hey. I have been filtering wvo through bag filters through gravity feed and am now looking for new options. I really only need to filter out about 10 gallons a week of clean WVO for myself but would like to create a more efficient, home made system on a budget. I collect and store about 200 gallons of oil each week for future processing.

-My real question here is I would like to see some different filtering systems that are used by members of STD.

I am looking for a system which utilizes a reusable filter, a pump, and heat. Im also looking for a system to remove water from oil. Since I store much more oil than I can process, I would like to start selling quality WVO filtered to 1 micron for around a buck a gallon this year. I have my own collection drums at many local restaurants which supplies a good portion of my oil.

I hear using jeans is popular for mass filtering. That should eliminate 90% of the crud that would clog a normal processing filter.

I was using a cleanable screen filter from EARL's fuel systems, these are available at http://www.summitracing.com in different micron ratings, I have been using mine for about 2 years filtering waste oil to run in my 123 wagon, no problems and cleans out very easily.

Thanks for the replies. but I am looking to cut most of the hand work to a minimum. I would like to fill up a barrel of wvo, flick a switch and process fuel at a quick rate under pressure. I also would like to know of some more efficient ways of cleaning bag filters.

thanks,

Jon

Best bet would be first, coarse filtering then a Centrifuge--but dont overload the 'fuge--let it pass through real slow, then filter in stages to 1 mic, (Coarse filtering, Fuge, then- 80, 20, 5, then 1 mic works well) and finally heat to over 100 deg. C and circulate via pump and expose oil to Lots of air by forced ventilation to make as sure as possible there is NO moisture left...

The filters will last well, providing you pass the oil through the fuge Really slow, and let it do its work....

--Store in sealed containers as full as possible to avoid oxidation and polymerisation issues....

--The Last part,--the Drying--is prolly the MOST important. Crud in oil just stuffs up your in-car filter....

Moisture in your oil will KILL the Injection-pump--Maybe not today or tomorrow, but sometime down the road, it WILL die if the oil isnt properly dried.....

OR a FAR BETTER idea would be to make Proper BioDiesel outta all that oil you have, or send it over here to Wales and let me make BioDiesel outta it!

Thanks for the response. I have looked into the certrifuge filtration but it seems like a lot of meticulous work and cheap products for my time.. I think i will with a high pressure heated pump connected to inline cartridge filters. Thanks for the ideas though. I would not go with biodiesel because it is a solvent and I dont want that in my engine it is almost as corrosive as gasoline. There is also alot of wase after processing it and chemicals cost a good amount of money.

(03-17-2010 07:22 PM)TotalDiesel Wrote:  Thanks for the response. I have looked into the certrifuge filtration but it seems like a lot of meticulous work and cheap products for my time.. I think i will with a high pressure heated pump connected to inline cartridge filters. Thanks for the ideas though. I would not go with biodiesel because it is a solvent and I dont want that in my engine it is almost as corrosive as gasoline. There is also alot of wase after processing it and chemicals cost a good amount of money.

Err....

You Wont use BioDiesel....Because its corrosive...!!??

Nonsense, Utter rubbish!....

But you're happy with WVO, that contains FFA's, Moisture and all sorts of other 'orrors!

(FFA = Free Fatty Acids...!--These are Oils dissolved in used cooking oils and CANNOT be filtered out,--No matter what the 'bloke down the pub' or on the 'net says!!)

FFA's are Corrosive--Especially in the presence of Moisture in Used Oils (Turns moisture acidic)!

--FFA's can be Neutralised, But the process is almost as involved as making a Proper BioDiesel,--And uses strong chemicals too, (NaOH/Lye) and consumes up approx 30% feedstock and you're left with Soap-Stock to get rid and the oil will need drying after!!
--Just NO point! ....

I believe you are completely mis-informed about Proper, Good BioDiesel!!