internals upgrades for bigger power? (250hp plus)
internals upgrades for bigger power? (250hp plus)
For instance on the Cummins 12v's it sounds like by 800hp people are replacing rods and at 1000hp they're looking at replacing or upgrading nearly everything because blocks split when going to four digit territory. Fire rings which sound like they impair long term practicality (not a long life) and head studs and 100lb compound turbo boosts can make monster power and for some people can be a daily driver - but I don't want to throw alot of money at things for a short lifespan. People pushing a Cummins to 500-600hp sound like they still get well over 100k or 200k miles out of it even in tow duty, parts breakage just from power (not something like the Killer Dowel Pin or something like burning valves from EGT) isn't really an issue even at 2-3x factory power.
I'm trying to scale down to the equivalent of that i'm just not sure where that figure is for Mercedes diesels.
2-3x the factory power output might be a fair guess, seemingly being tough diesels (esp the Sprinter ones i'd want to think with 7-10k of van to move) but I could be wrong. Hearing of machines putting out crazy power 500-600-700hp is interesting - but as pointed out, at high RPM.You can wind a Cummins up too (not nearly as high as a Mercedes) but even if you ignore where the power CAN be, if the torque curve is shifted up much you lose daily driveability, MPG, the capacity to tow. I can build a 500-550hp compound turbo cummins that will be fast AND tow AND get MPG all day AND be pretty cheap believe it or not - but all besides 'fast' falls to pieces if you ask for 800-900hp on a 12 valve. (because of things like fixed timing, the newer 24v and using electronics can do a wider powerband)
So my real goal - is to boost Mercedes power - 50% to start across the board which if it's a tough diesel shouldn't blow it up - but I don't really want to kill driveability, MPG, or even towing capacity albeit with an automatic and a decent axle ratio. By what I understand of diesel physics this shouldn't be rocket science. I'm just curious whether more than 50% without breaking stuff is viable in the way that it is on many Cummins 12v.
futureswap
02-05-2023, 10:26 PM #8Slightly shifting to my original topic I guess i'm curious at what point the mods go from affordable to $$$$ - then trying to stay on the easier side of that. I figured if I understood what breaks at what power level and when people start to spend megabucks I could estimate where I felt comfortable building for.
For instance on the Cummins 12v's it sounds like by 800hp people are replacing rods and at 1000hp they're looking at replacing or upgrading nearly everything because blocks split when going to four digit territory. Fire rings which sound like they impair long term practicality (not a long life) and head studs and 100lb compound turbo boosts can make monster power and for some people can be a daily driver - but I don't want to throw alot of money at things for a short lifespan. People pushing a Cummins to 500-600hp sound like they still get well over 100k or 200k miles out of it even in tow duty, parts breakage just from power (not something like the Killer Dowel Pin or something like burning valves from EGT) isn't really an issue even at 2-3x factory power.
I'm trying to scale down to the equivalent of that i'm just not sure where that figure is for Mercedes diesels. 2-3x the factory power output might be a fair guess, seemingly being tough diesels (esp the Sprinter ones i'd want to think with 7-10k of van to move) but I could be wrong. Hearing of machines putting out crazy power 500-600-700hp is interesting - but as pointed out, at high RPM.
You can wind a Cummins up too (not nearly as high as a Mercedes) but even if you ignore where the power CAN be, if the torque curve is shifted up much you lose daily driveability, MPG, the capacity to tow. I can build a 500-550hp compound turbo cummins that will be fast AND tow AND get MPG all day AND be pretty cheap believe it or not - but all besides 'fast' falls to pieces if you ask for 800-900hp on a 12 valve. (because of things like fixed timing, the newer 24v and using electronics can do a wider powerband)
So my real goal - is to boost Mercedes power - 50% to start across the board which if it's a tough diesel shouldn't blow it up - but I don't really want to kill driveability, MPG, or even towing capacity albeit with an automatic and a decent axle ratio. By what I understand of diesel physics this shouldn't be rocket science. I'm just curious whether more than 50% without breaking stuff is viable in the way that it is on many Cummins 12v.
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