Toyota pickup OM617 swap
Toyota pickup OM617 swap
Well Ive been lurking around here for a while and have gotten lots of good info so Ive decided to share my project. Im swapping a OM617 turbo into a 94 toyota pickup. Heres some picks
I built an adapter to mate it to the toyota 5 speeed
New engine sitting in its home
It is VERY tight in the front
Cool Project
(03-29-2011, 03:01 PM)Captain America Cool Project
From what I understand, its automatically filled via engine oil circulation. Not really a need to check the level.
(03-29-2011, 03:11 PM)4rnnr33(03-29-2011, 03:01 PM)Captain America Cool Project
Thanks it should be fun to drive especially once I start adjusting the pump
Ive been searching for a while but havent found what I need. Can anyone tell me where to check the oil level in the IP?
(03-29-2011, 03:11 PM)4rnnr33(03-29-2011, 03:01 PM)Captain America Cool Project
Thanks it should be fun to drive especially once I start adjusting the pump
Ive been searching for a while but havent found what I need. Can anyone tell me where to check the oil level in the IP?
Nice. I did a diesel swap on my bronco and love it. The only issues I have is that with my front locker and rear spool I can really get in trouble and i snap Dana 60 axles like nothing.
(03-30-2011, 01:33 AM)dieselboy Nice. I did a diesel swap on my bronco and love it. The only issues I have is that with my front locker and rear spool I can really get in trouble and i snap Dana 60 axles like nothing.
(03-30-2011, 01:33 AM)dieselboy Nice. I did a diesel swap on my bronco and love it. The only issues I have is that with my front locker and rear spool I can really get in trouble and i snap Dana 60 axles like nothing.
awesome project! nice job on the adaption! Its amazing how close the toyota manual trans are to these mercedes as far as starter location is
Very nice! I like the adapter for the pilot bearing I may have to do something similar for my 300sdl 6spd project if I go with a single mass flywheel!
(03-30-2011, 01:40 AM)Captain America(03-30-2011, 01:33 AM)dieselboy Nice. I did a diesel swap on my bronco and love it. The only issues I have is that with my front locker and rear spool I can really get in trouble and i snap Dana 60 axles like nothing.
ooooo Look at Mr. Badass ... I thought breaking Dana 30 axles with 170hp was cool
(03-30-2011, 01:40 AM)Captain America(03-30-2011, 01:33 AM)dieselboy Nice. I did a diesel swap on my bronco and love it. The only issues I have is that with my front locker and rear spool I can really get in trouble and i snap Dana 60 axles like nothing.
ooooo Look at Mr. Badass ... I thought breaking Dana 30 axles with 170hp was cool
that looks pretty wicked. Can not wait to see this thing run.
im doin same swap in 84 curious if you found shop to balance match flywheel
(03-31-2011, 12:01 AM)676869addict im doin same swap in 84 curious if you found shop to balance match flywheel
(03-31-2011, 12:01 AM)676869addict im doin same swap in 84 curious if you found shop to balance match flywheel
There's a guy on one of the other forums that does custom tach amps, I forget the name though.
Thse swaps look AWESOME!
http://www.mbelectronicupgrades.com/Tachometer_Amp.html
this guy maybe?
Man that thing looks badass bobbed! Wow I love the look!
@Dieselboy, I have 177hp and 224ft lbs of torque lol..... until the turbo gets installed. Add 100 to both numbers with 6lbs of boost
Yep, that's the guy for tach amps.
Email him and explain the situation, he should be able to make it work just purty.
Well I got it pretty much all buttoned up this weekend and have drove it yesterday and today. Everything is going good so far except Im pretty sure im going to have to drop the tranny back out and get the flywheel match balanced, it vibrates quite a bit at idle and higher RPMs. Other than that theres a few small oil leaks to fix. The only other thing Ive noticed is that even with my ALDA adjusted all the way out I still get no black smoke so I think I might not be getting enough fuel maybe? The only thing I can think of is that I didnt take out the stock in tank fuel pump so maybe thats restricting flow? Anyways heres some pics
Notched the oil pan to clear draglink. Got super lucky on this because I didnt have to modify the pickup.
About 3/8" of clearance with suspension maxed out
Rebuilt injectors installed\
New primer pump installed
Gauges all hooked up (Still need to hook up water temp)
And a random one
Contrary to popular belief, you don't want black smoke, that means you have unburnt fuel and are dumping $$$ out the exhaust pipe.
A little at WOT before the turbo spools is acceptable, but much more than that isn't doing you any good.
Is the stock pump still running, or did you snip it's wire?
(04-03-2011, 04:47 PM)larsalan what kinda fuel pump is that?
Ya I know I don't really want the smoke but what im saying is that it won't smoke which tells me the fuel may be getting restricted somewhere like possibly the in tank pump. And it is not hooked up.
(04-03-2011, 04:47 PM)larsalan what kinda fuel pump is that?
Sorry, didn't mean to jump to conclusions. I'm so used to people thinking that black smoke = power I get a bit jumpy...
Hook up the stock pump, and see if it helps. If it does, you're golden.
(04-03-2011, 06:13 PM)larsalan
this one, is a bosch lift pump?
(04-03-2011, 06:13 PM)300D50 Sorry, didn't mean to jump to conclusions. I'm so used to people thinking that black smoke = power I get a bit jumpy...
Hook up the stock pump, and see if it helps. If it does, you're golden.
(04-03-2011, 06:13 PM)larsalan
this one, is a bosch lift pump?
(04-03-2011, 06:13 PM)300D50 Sorry, didn't mean to jump to conclusions. I'm so used to people thinking that black smoke = power I get a bit jumpy...
Hook up the stock pump, and see if it helps. If it does, you're golden.
The IP will limit the max pressure to a safe level, so I'd just leave it on all the time.
(04-03-2011, 06:47 PM)4rnnr33 No its the one they sell on Mercedes source I can't remember the brand but its supposed to be more heavy duty than the Bosch onesThats one of their many scams. The primer pump has no relation to the lift pump except when being pumped manually.
Edit: its a monarch pump
(04-03-2011, 06:47 PM)4rnnr33 No its the one they sell on Mercedes source I can't remember the brand but its supposed to be more heavy duty than the Bosch onesThats one of their many scams. The primer pump has no relation to the lift pump except when being pumped manually.
Edit: its a monarch pump
(04-03-2011, 07:21 PM)ForcedInduction(04-03-2011, 06:47 PM)4rnnr33 No its the one they sell on Mercedes source I can't remember the brand but its supposed to be more heavy duty than the Bosch onesThats one of their many scams. The primer pump has no relation to the lift pump except when being pumped manually.
Edit: its a monarch pump
(04-03-2011, 07:21 PM)ForcedInduction(04-03-2011, 06:47 PM)4rnnr33 No its the one they sell on Mercedes source I can't remember the brand but its supposed to be more heavy duty than the Bosch onesThats one of their many scams. The primer pump has no relation to the lift pump except when being pumped manually.
Edit: its a monarch pump
have the valves been adjusted?
Id first remove that in tank toyota fuel pump. The vibration could be the engine working extra hard to draw fuel past a restriction, or an air problem or something.
There could be all kinds of stuff with that pump that might harming fuel delivery. I had a problem on a swap once (not toyota, I think it was a VW 1.6 diesel repowering from gas) where all our issues turned out to be caused by a one way check valve between the supply and return lines inside the fuel tank as part of the in tank pump assembly. We had physically removed the pump itself, but had left the assembly to act as supply and return stand pipes.
In that circumstance, the check valve was designed to close with pressure from the stock pump, but when fuel was DRAWN from the fuel feed by the mechanical diesel, the check valve line would open to return, dumping air into the supply line. Of course, it would only do this if you had 3/4s of a tank or less, or if you really whomped on the pedal. Took forever to pin down, it just looked like an extra piece of supporting plastic between the two lines, it wasn't until I was taking the thing completely apart that this little check valve, and an actual connection between supply and return presented itself. We ended up removing the whole thing in favor of a straight tube for supply and a port for return.
Removing that pump and any in line fuel filter underneath would at least remove that variable so you have a essentially stock mercedes like fuel system to start for diagnosis
In my experience, as long as the in-tank pump is running, you're good.
You can add a swirl pot/surge tank at the firewall and have it recirculate back to the tank, then have the engine return and the feed to the lift pump go to the surge tank.
Put a water separator with a rough-filter off the tank pump before the can, and you'll have constant filtration of the fuel in the tank, and a mild heating effect in the winter time.
(04-04-2011, 02:35 PM)300D50 In my experience, as long as the in-tank pump is running, you're good.
You can add a swirl pot/surge tank at the firewall and have it recirculate back to the tank, then have the engine return and the feed to the lift pump go to the surge tank.
Put a water separator with a rough-filter off the tank pump before the can, and you'll have constant filtration of the fuel in the tank, and a mild heating effect in the winter time.
(04-04-2011, 02:35 PM)300D50 In my experience, as long as the in-tank pump is running, you're good.
You can add a swirl pot/surge tank at the firewall and have it recirculate back to the tank, then have the engine return and the feed to the lift pump go to the surge tank.
Put a water separator with a rough-filter off the tank pump before the can, and you'll have constant filtration of the fuel in the tank, and a mild heating effect in the winter time.
If you havent stripped all of the wiring out, get a schematic from a Haynes or Chiltons manual, find the fuel pump relay.Hook it to ignition+ or - & there you go.
Ed
(04-04-2011, 10:13 PM)85-300Dt(04-04-2011, 01:53 AM)4rnnr33 it vibrates pretty bad at high rpms not sure if its normal .mine was the opposite plenty of vibes at idle but smoothed right out with rpms
You had to fill up at the pump yet? I'm pretty sure you will have to modify the fuel filler neck.
When I put the diesel in my bronco I took the intank fuelpump out and made tube with a small slant cut on the bottom and put that in place of it.
(04-05-2011, 01:16 AM)dieselboy You had to fill up at the pump yet? I'm pretty sure you will have to modify the fuel filler neck.
When I put the diesel in my bronco I took the intank fuelpump out and made tube with a small slant cut on the bottom and put that in place of it.
(04-05-2011, 01:16 AM)dieselboy You had to fill up at the pump yet? I'm pretty sure you will have to modify the fuel filler neck.
When I put the diesel in my bronco I took the intank fuelpump out and made tube with a small slant cut on the bottom and put that in place of it.
the 617 runs very smooth at normal highway speeds. idle can be a little rough if the motor mounts are not good. in the car it has shock absorbers in addition to the mounts. If these go bad the engine is all over the place. Sort of a weird but gentle side to side rocking motion.
wish my Toyota frame was not rotten, this post gets me thinking of a swap.
(04-04-2011, 02:35 PM)300D50 In my experience, as long as the in-tank pump is running, you're good.
(04-04-2011, 02:35 PM)300D50 In my experience, as long as the in-tank pump is running, you're good.
A surge tank takes care of it, and a high-psi pump against a low-psi over-pressure valve isn't much of a problem.
If it was a 5psi positive-displacement pump deadheading against a 100psi overpressure valve, you'd have problems, but most pumps are now turbine anyways.
Still can be an issue in certain cases, but I say drive it till it fails, then pull it. We know the failure mode anyways, and that the engine will run without it.
The original problem might not even be related to the fuel pump, it could be a weak return spring in the IP's banjo or a clogged fuel filter on the frame rail.
EDIT:
Just remembered the lift pump has check-valves, so you can still blow past it easily, I've pumped diesel through mine with a rattle-prattle inline pump before to purge air.
I'm an odd bird, I'll swap an engine, make custom parts for it, but I'll do anything to keep from dropping the tank or running lines. Hence my bias. I think it's in part because of the NY rust cancer making under-vehicle work a PITA...
Removing it is the cleanest option, so go for it!
I cut a hole in my floor instead of dropping my tank lol.
(04-09-2011, 12:41 AM)300D50 I'm an odd bird, I'll swap an engine, make custom parts for it, but I'll do anything to keep from dropping the tank or running lines. Hence my bias. I think it's in part because of the NY rust cancer making under-vehicle work a PITA...
(04-09-2011, 12:41 AM)300D50 I'm an odd bird, I'll swap an engine, make custom parts for it, but I'll do anything to keep from dropping the tank or running lines. Hence my bias. I think it's in part because of the NY rust cancer making under-vehicle work a PITA...
(04-09-2011, 07:15 AM)dropnosky(04-09-2011, 12:41 AM)300D50 I'm an odd bird, I'll swap an engine, make custom parts for it, but I'll do anything to keep from dropping the tank or running lines. Hence my bias. I think it's in part because of the NY rust cancer making under-vehicle work a PITA...
Lol, 100% agree with this! Nothing is scarier than turning a rusted tank bolt a 1/4 turn and having the bolt break off and the strap crumble, then having to go in there and cut the strap and bolt off near the fuel! Especially if the tank is leaking to begin with.
(04-09-2011, 07:15 AM)dropnosky(04-09-2011, 12:41 AM)300D50 I'm an odd bird, I'll swap an engine, make custom parts for it, but I'll do anything to keep from dropping the tank or running lines. Hence my bias. I think it's in part because of the NY rust cancer making under-vehicle work a PITA...
Lol, 100% agree with this! Nothing is scarier than turning a rusted tank bolt a 1/4 turn and having the bolt break off and the strap crumble, then having to go in there and cut the strap and bolt off near the fuel! Especially if the tank is leaking to begin with.