The Phoenix Project
The Phoenix Project
$450 for paint-matching as long as it is good is a decent price. Considering the cost of paint $150-250 and the rest is labor and experience.
Although, down here we paint whole car's for $400-500 but we use cheap single stage paint.
(07-08-2012, 10:01 AM)Greazzer Attached are some pictures. I am going to re-do this post because I want to identify all parts and lay them out just in case anyone can learn from my trials and tribulations. It is already 90+F at 10 AM so I have to quit. Plus, I need to pick up stainless steel fastners, washers, and a few rubber grommets, plus some POR-15 to make this a job well done. The REAR Euro Bumper is compliments of "Just Passing Thru", the main bumper brackets at the rear of the car are EBAY and the side quarterpanel brackets that go onto the end piece "arms" are PP (dealer). The pads appear to be crucial, so that is definitely a suggested always new item. As you can tell by the last 2 pictures, I have some fine tuning plus I need to figure out how to attach the rubber bumper strip. Does one just try to slide that rubber piece on ???
NEED OPINIONS ABOUT QUOTE:
Got a rough quote (Which I think is high) of $450.00 to paint 2 fenders and hood. They are stripped down (chemically) to the metal coating (some sort of electro applied coating from the factory). There is NO body work needed and no rust. Just need them prep'd, primered, and painted to match the car and assuming to be re-bolted on. All fastners are sorted, layed out, and ready to go. I still did not get a firm response from the person for the engine bay and AMG air dam. I think I will get everything done hopefully in the next few weeks. That way, I can put everything on it that needs to go on the body, and the outside will look completely done. Interior just needs to be re-dyed which is a capable project once the car is out of my garage. If that should happen, I can keep the car outside (in the brutal heat) and put the drivetrain inside the garage. The block now has brand new cylinder sleeves, its honed, and I got a great price on the maching shop to put it all back together.
ANY OPINIONS ON THE PRICING ??? Please.
Thanks,
(07-08-2012, 10:01 AM)Greazzer Attached are some pictures. I am going to re-do this post because I want to identify all parts and lay them out just in case anyone can learn from my trials and tribulations. It is already 90+F at 10 AM so I have to quit. Plus, I need to pick up stainless steel fastners, washers, and a few rubber grommets, plus some POR-15 to make this a job well done. The REAR Euro Bumper is compliments of "Just Passing Thru", the main bumper brackets at the rear of the car are EBAY and the side quarterpanel brackets that go onto the end piece "arms" are PP (dealer). The pads appear to be crucial, so that is definitely a suggested always new item. As you can tell by the last 2 pictures, I have some fine tuning plus I need to figure out how to attach the rubber bumper strip. Does one just try to slide that rubber piece on ???
NEED OPINIONS ABOUT QUOTE:
Got a rough quote (Which I think is high) of $450.00 to paint 2 fenders and hood. They are stripped down (chemically) to the metal coating (some sort of electro applied coating from the factory). There is NO body work needed and no rust. Just need them prep'd, primered, and painted to match the car and assuming to be re-bolted on. All fastners are sorted, layed out, and ready to go. I still did not get a firm response from the person for the engine bay and AMG air dam. I think I will get everything done hopefully in the next few weeks. That way, I can put everything on it that needs to go on the body, and the outside will look completely done. Interior just needs to be re-dyed which is a capable project once the car is out of my garage. If that should happen, I can keep the car outside (in the brutal heat) and put the drivetrain inside the garage. The block now has brand new cylinder sleeves, its honed, and I got a great price on the maching shop to put it all back together.
ANY OPINIONS ON THE PRICING ??? Please.
Thanks,
Yes,
If you look at the 2 pictures where I used my index finger as a measuring device, you will see that the driver's side is out more than the passangers. Because you have some play at the brackets, I am pretty sure that will even out. There are actually 3 holes on each side of the quarter panel. The non-Euro bumpers used the hole that is closest to the front end. The Euro's use the hole which is about 4 inches back. Once I take it apart and get my SS stuff, I will give a full and exact breakdown on putting it back together.
this is an awesome thread, I can't believe what progress you've made!
When you first posted this thread, I was sure you would never get the front end completely worked out, seemed like a lions share of work, but I would have been totally wrong.
Concerned the 4-pot calipers, if you have to go custom to get the 124s to work, you might consider volvo 200 series calipers, hubs and brakes.
Those have stock 4-pot front calipers and vented rotors, and an awesomely complex dual line front brake channel system. two brake lines each to each front caliper. Give the Swedes credit for an incredibly redundant safe brake system.
One brake line runs one half of each caliper. If you lose a brake channel, you never lose complete braking on any wheel, only half of the braking on any wheel.
4 pistons per caliper, one brake line per two pistons, two channels on a single caliper, its like a race car stock.
What size are the Volvo rotors?
Even though it is hiting 85F already before 10 AM, I braved the shade of my garage. Here is my information for anyone needing it relative to a Rear Euro Bumper swap.
Rear Passenger Bracket, non-towing type: A123-880-0164
Rear Driver Bracket, non-towing type: 123-880-0514
Rear Driver End (1 of 3 pieces): 123-880-037?
There is no part number stamped on my passenger end or middle section or rubber strip
Bracket for each rear quarter panel: 123-880-00-14
Rear Bumper rubber pad for each quarter panel bracket: 116-885-00-97
Screw from Quarter Panel to Bracket: 304017-008021
I used all stainless steel fasteners to assemble the ends to the middle section and the bumper itself to the car brackets. M8x1.25x16mm (4 of these for the end pieces) and M8x1.25x20mm (4 of these for the bumper to the car). I used POR-15 for the heavy rusted and a similar product to spray to cover the entire area since it was speckled with rust.
Instead of spending a fortune on SS fasteners, I got a bunch left over for anyone wanting to buy a pre-packaged kit. That is, I could only buy 100 of each at a time, so I got a bunch left over.
Hope this helps anyone since this was a super time intensive project for me. Over 3 months in the making, but I am pumped over the Euro Rear Bumper.
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
A crazy thought:
Since you will be the CF master when this is done, could you hypothetically make a CF euro bumper and fill it with high density expanded polystyrene? (aka 'great stuf')
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(07-15-2012, 09:06 AM)Greazzer Even though it is hiting 85F already before 10 AM, I braved the shade of my garage. Here is my information for anyone needing it relative to a Rear Euro Bumper swap.
Rear Passenger Bracket, non-towing type: A123-880-0164
Rear Driver Bracket, non-towing type: 123-880-0514
Rear Driver End (1 of 3 pieces): 123-880-037?
There is no part number stamped on my passenger end or middle section or rubber strip
Bracket for each rear quarter panel: 123-880-00-14
Rear Bumper rubber pad for each quarter panel bracket: 116-885-00-97
Screw from Quarter Panel to Bracket: 304017-008021
I used all stainless steel fasteners to assemble the ends to the middle section and the bumper itself to the car brackets. M8x1.25x16mm (4 of these for the end pieces) and M8x1.25x20mm (4 of these for the bumper to the car). I used POR-15 for the heavy rusted and a similar product to spray to cover the entire area since it was speckled with rust.
Instead of spending a fortune on SS fasteners, I got a bunch left over for anyone wanting to buy a pre-packaged kit. That is, I could only buy 100 of each at a time, so I got a bunch left over.
Hope this helps anyone since this was a super time intensive project for me. Over 3 months in the making, but I am pumped over the Euro Rear Bumper.
(07-15-2012, 09:06 AM)Greazzer Even though it is hiting 85F already before 10 AM, I braved the shade of my garage. Here is my information for anyone needing it relative to a Rear Euro Bumper swap.
Rear Passenger Bracket, non-towing type: A123-880-0164
Rear Driver Bracket, non-towing type: 123-880-0514
Rear Driver End (1 of 3 pieces): 123-880-037?
There is no part number stamped on my passenger end or middle section or rubber strip
Bracket for each rear quarter panel: 123-880-00-14
Rear Bumper rubber pad for each quarter panel bracket: 116-885-00-97
Screw from Quarter Panel to Bracket: 304017-008021
I used all stainless steel fasteners to assemble the ends to the middle section and the bumper itself to the car brackets. M8x1.25x16mm (4 of these for the end pieces) and M8x1.25x20mm (4 of these for the bumper to the car). I used POR-15 for the heavy rusted and a similar product to spray to cover the entire area since it was speckled with rust.
Instead of spending a fortune on SS fasteners, I got a bunch left over for anyone wanting to buy a pre-packaged kit. That is, I could only buy 100 of each at a time, so I got a bunch left over.
Hope this helps anyone since this was a super time intensive project for me. Over 3 months in the making, but I am pumped over the Euro Rear Bumper.
(07-16-2012, 07:34 AM)Simpler=Better A crazy thought:
Since you will be the CF master when this is done, could you hypothetically make a CF euro bumper and fill it with high density expanded polystyrene? (aka 'great stuf')
(07-16-2012, 07:34 AM)Simpler=Better A crazy thought:
Since you will be the CF master when this is done, could you hypothetically make a CF euro bumper and fill it with high density expanded polystyrene? (aka 'great stuf')
(07-16-2012, 01:31 PM)Greazzer(07-16-2012, 07:34 AM)Simpler=Better A crazy thought:
Since you will be the CF master when this is done, could you hypothetically make a CF euro bumper and fill it with high density expanded polystyrene? (aka 'great stuf')
Yes, I hope to be. I am hoping to get away this October or November to Reno, NV to take the class. One week of training in CF. I have been told by a bunch of folks that I should be the cat's pajamas when it comes to making body panels like the pro's after the course. And yes, a rear or front bumper or even my AMG Air Dam (chin) in CF looks doable. The little things that I have made thus far in my experiments with vacuum infusion leads me to believe that after a few big items, I should be good to go, especially after the class. So, yes to panels also. I hope to have the car up and running by then. But, CF replacement panels, e.g., hood, trunk lid, cowl, bumpers, doors, would be a dream. I have successfully made some nice CF rods by rolling CF around a super thin and incredibly light aluminum tube. Bagging and infusion has been super simply thus far. I am shocked as to how strong this tube turned out.
so Ive been putting in these the wrong way! ive been putting them right side up instead of the way you have them pictured. That explains everything!
so the bumpers you sold me, do you remember if they have the mounting bracket? because mine looks way diffrent then yours.
(07-16-2012, 01:31 PM)Greazzer(07-16-2012, 07:34 AM)Simpler=Better A crazy thought:
Since you will be the CF master when this is done, could you hypothetically make a CF euro bumper and fill it with high density expanded polystyrene? (aka 'great stuf')
Yes, I hope to be. I am hoping to get away this October or November to Reno, NV to take the class. One week of training in CF. I have been told by a bunch of folks that I should be the cat's pajamas when it comes to making body panels like the pro's after the course. And yes, a rear or front bumper or even my AMG Air Dam (chin) in CF looks doable. The little things that I have made thus far in my experiments with vacuum infusion leads me to believe that after a few big items, I should be good to go, especially after the class. So, yes to panels also. I hope to have the car up and running by then. But, CF replacement panels, e.g., hood, trunk lid, cowl, bumpers, doors, would be a dream. I have successfully made some nice CF rods by rolling CF around a super thin and incredibly light aluminum tube. Bagging and infusion has been super simply thus far. I am shocked as to how strong this tube turned out.
so Ive been putting in these the wrong way! ive been putting them right side up instead of the way you have them pictured. That explains everything!
so the bumpers you sold me, do you remember if they have the mounting bracket? because mine looks way diffrent then yours.
Purplecomputer: I took the entire bumper off again to take pictures of both sides of the mounting brackets (NOT the quarter panel brackets). This Euro Bumper is kicking my AZZZ.. LOL
(07-16-2012, 07:46 PM)Greazzer Purplecomputer: I took the entire bumper off again to take pictures of both sides of the mounting brackets (NOT the quarter panel brackets). This Euro Bumper is kicking my AZZZ.. LOL
(07-16-2012, 07:46 PM)Greazzer Purplecomputer: I took the entire bumper off again to take pictures of both sides of the mounting brackets (NOT the quarter panel brackets). This Euro Bumper is kicking my AZZZ.. LOL
I honestly don't remeber if I packed a similar type of bracket. I think I did, however. The picture of my bracket is the older style of bracket. Do you have a picture of yours ?
(07-17-2012, 02:27 PM)Greazzer I honestly don't remeber if I packed a similar type of bracket. I think I did, however. The picture of my bracket is the older style of bracket. Do you have a picture of yours ?
(07-17-2012, 02:27 PM)Greazzer I honestly don't remeber if I packed a similar type of bracket. I think I did, however. The picture of my bracket is the older style of bracket. Do you have a picture of yours ?
looks like I need the same bracket as you as I found this factory manual on installing the bumpers and the supporting brackets that go in the back of the bumper looks the same as your, Which is what I dont have.
Where did you find that part? the dealer?
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Oh cmon' guys just get some 4" drywall screws
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
EBAY. Ask for the same deal I got. $40.00 plus $7.00 parcel post shipping.
(07-18-2012, 12:45 PM)Greazzer EBAY. Ask for the same deal I got. $40.00 plus $7.00 parcel post shipping.
(07-18-2012, 12:45 PM)Greazzer EBAY. Ask for the same deal I got. $40.00 plus $7.00 parcel post shipping.
Here is the email. I'm too dumb to figure out how to post the URL / Link. Sorry.
Shipped today, you will have Friday.
Regards, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: To: billdovell <billdovell@aol.com>
Sent: Tue, Jun 26, 2012 10:09 am
Subject: RE: brackets
(07-19-2012, 07:27 PM)Greazzer Here is the email. I'm too dumb to figure out how to post the URL / Link. Sorry.
Shipped today, you will have Friday.
Regards, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: To: billdovell <billdovell@aol.com>
Sent: Tue, Jun 26, 2012 10:09 am
Subject: RE: brackets
(07-19-2012, 07:27 PM)Greazzer Here is the email. I'm too dumb to figure out how to post the URL / Link. Sorry.
Shipped today, you will have Friday.
Regards, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: To: billdovell <billdovell@aol.com>
Sent: Tue, Jun 26, 2012 10:09 am
Subject: RE: brackets
I gave you his email addres ? You can email him .
(07-20-2012, 10:35 AM)Greazzer I gave you his email addres ? You can email him .
(07-20-2012, 10:35 AM)Greazzer I gave you his email addres ? You can email him .
Just drill new holes?
(07-21-2012, 06:04 PM)sassparilla_kid Just drill new holes?
(07-21-2012, 06:04 PM)sassparilla_kid Just drill new holes?
LOL ! I just bolted mine up for the 5th time and now it is sitting cocked - eyed. WTF ?
I am laughing to myself outloud at 11:09 PM EST. Classic. I feel old.
Now, I got to fiddle around with my bumper too -- again. This Euro bumper has been going on for months now. Don't feel bad.
I finally re-dyed the plastic inserts that go in the trunk. I like it 100% more. They look like they were dipped in Armor-all. If you re-dye anything, make sure you wear nitril gloves and gloves with no holes. This stuff does not come off easily from one's hands. The one little hole on my left hand glove attracted every bit of stray black dye. LOL. Also, got the Euro Bumper installed -- Again. It is still off by a bunch, but I give up. I will let the body shop guy tinker with it.
RE-INSTALLED my battery box. I will post some pictures of a few upgrades to the battery box, e.g., rubber lining and thin rubber sheet to drape over the battery which will cover up the holes on each end of the box. Then, I think I am done R&D on the battery box. Because the battery is gone from the engine bay, and I got a few ideas up my sleeve, I think that once the engine bay is stripped and professionally painted along with the hood & fenders, I think most of the wires and cables will either be hidden or gone when I am finished.
The tow truck guy is picking it up tomorrow so that the body shop can paint the fenders and hood and AMG air dam. Hopefully, by the end of August, the exterior will look 100%. While the car is out of the garage, I am going to re-dye the front and back seats so that when I get it back in 3 weeks, I can just pop in the seats. Before I do that, I am toying with the idea of doing the sound deadening. Not sure, however. That might be a later project. Once I get the car back and I pop in the seats, I am just left with drive train and fine tuning. Maybe by Christmas ? I am only 6 months behind schedule now or at least my own make believe schedule. I like the silver color better than my old car's gold color and I like the blue interior better than palamino. I am a little anxious over re-dying the seats, but the black plastic came out nice IMO.
I’m intrigued by the dying you did to the trunk inserts. I have never thought to do it. Why did you decide to do that?
Howdy,
My decision was more global in nature relative to the car. With age, all plastics and vinyl fade. Just like humans, it gets "old". I tried scrubbing the crap out of them, like the seats and other parts of the interior, and applying Armorall, and they still looked old no matter what I did. So, dying is an option for seats so I just applied the same logic to all plastic and vinyl. Actually, it makes all these surfaces look the way it came out of Stutegard in the 80's. This stuff is permanent, guaranteed to not flake off, peel, chip, et cet. It really does "soak" into the plastic or vinyl and penetrate into the material. Same theory to the engine bay with it going to be stripped and painted. I have cleaned the crap out of my old engine bay but it still looks old. So, why not apply the equivelant of new skin ?
I just noticed in the pictures that the black satin finish actually reflects the shine off the MB emblem on the battery box. I could have never got that finish with cleaning and just a surface protectorant like Armorall. So far, I am pretty happy with the results. I cannot wait until I do the seats.
Howdy,
With some sadness, I have come to the conclusion, somewhat out of necessity and somewhat out of "objective reasoning" to sell the Phoenix Project. $300.00 FIRM, local pick up only. The few cool items I installed, e.g., Euro Bumper, will be removed. Columbia, S.C.