buying a junkyard engine for rebuilding?
buying a junkyard engine for rebuilding?
10-05-2010, 04:29 PM
#1
is this a good deal? is there a way to figure out whether a junk yard engine is worth rebuilding?
i've been thinking about the idea of rebuilding a turbo 617 to eventually swap into my wagon. i called up ecology in santa fe springs and they charge $229 for all whole engines.
is this a good deal? is there a way to figure out whether a junk yard engine is worth rebuilding?
10-05-2010, 06:09 PM
#2
Buy it and see if it runs, that's a good first step before you try to rebuild it. There are sometimes external hints, I've seen dry oil coolers (ie no oil inside, they don't drain easily), seized (try turning it), one odd one where the intake was somehow smashed and the engine ingested bits and pieces...
10-05-2010, 06:33 PM
#3
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
they won't let you in the yard with a battery and a gallon can of diesel? They do that around here, that way you can try and fire an engine and hear how it runs first. Chances are you can find a perfectly good engine that needs nothing and just fire it in there
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
10-06-2010, 06:15 AM
#5
Don't forget that not any 617 will work. Your car requires the wagon-specific cylinder head with the cast-on SLS pump mount.
ForcedInduction
10-06-2010, 06:15 AM
#5
Take a battery and fuel and fire it up once you get outside the gates. If the engine is bad you just have to turn around and hand it back to them.
Don't forget that not any 617 will work. Your car requires the wagon-specific cylinder head with the cast-on SLS pump mount.
10-06-2010, 08:19 AM
#6
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
10-06-2010, 08:19 AM #6At least where I go they want you to pay a warranty fee - that is the only recourse you have to return a defective part - otherwise Caveat Emptor...
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
10-06-2010, 11:48 AM
#7
I did not know this..(im sure i dont know ALOT)
Whats the deal with those??
Stan, keep an eye out on craigslist for a wrecked Benz that someone wants to get rid of thats still running.
Im buying another 240D tonight(ithink), and im gonna start looking for a 617 to rebuild and drop in there too, and thats what im gonna do.
The only way i would buy a junkyard engine is if i also purchased the warranty..its too risky.
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
Oh wow theres wagon specific cylinder heads?
I did not know this..(im sure i dont know ALOT)
Whats the deal with those??
Stan, keep an eye out on craigslist for a wrecked Benz that someone wants to get rid of thats still running.
Im buying another 240D tonight(ithink), and im gonna start looking for a 617 to rebuild and drop in there too, and thats what im gonna do.
The only way i would buy a junkyard engine is if i also purchased the warranty..its too risky.
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
10-06-2010, 02:31 PM
#8
(10-06-2010, 06:15 AM)ForcedInduction Don't forget that not any 617 will work. Your car requires the wagon-specific cylinder head with the cast-on SLS pump mount.
CRAP
what about using a nonturbo SLS head on a turbo engine? or will the compression ratio be an issue? i know on gassers this matters, but what about our diesels?
(10-06-2010, 06:15 AM)ForcedInduction Don't forget that not any 617 will work. Your car requires the wagon-specific cylinder head with the cast-on SLS pump mount.
CRAP
what about using a nonturbo SLS head on a turbo engine? or will the compression ratio be an issue? i know on gassers this matters, but what about our diesels?
10-06-2010, 03:03 PM
#9
(10-06-2010, 02:31 PM)stan(10-06-2010, 06:15 AM)ForcedInduction Don't forget that not any 617 will work. Your car requires the wagon-specific cylinder head with the cast-on SLS pump mount.
CRAP
what about using a nonturbo SLS head on a turbo engine? or will the compression ratio be an issue? i know on gassers this matters, but what about our diesels?
You won't have the turbo valves at least, probably other problems. Maybe you could remove all the valves and such from the turbo sedan head and transfer it over? Im sure someone else can say definitively what else would be missing or be wrong.
Did you buy those springs from propigskin? If so, any engine would work and you would have to put those springs in to compensate for no SLS.
Orrr, you could be the one to figure out an alternative way, maybe an electric pump? to power your SLS with a non wagon motor!
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(10-06-2010, 02:31 PM)stan(10-06-2010, 06:15 AM)ForcedInduction Don't forget that not any 617 will work. Your car requires the wagon-specific cylinder head with the cast-on SLS pump mount.
CRAP
what about using a nonturbo SLS head on a turbo engine? or will the compression ratio be an issue? i know on gassers this matters, but what about our diesels?
You won't have the turbo valves at least, probably other problems. Maybe you could remove all the valves and such from the turbo sedan head and transfer it over? Im sure someone else can say definitively what else would be missing or be wrong.
Did you buy those springs from propigskin? If so, any engine would work and you would have to put those springs in to compensate for no SLS.
Orrr, you could be the one to figure out an alternative way, maybe an electric pump? to power your SLS with a non wagon motor!
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
10-06-2010, 03:06 PM
#10
(10-06-2010, 03:03 PM)dropnosky(10-06-2010, 02:31 PM)stan(10-06-2010, 06:15 AM)ForcedInduction Don't forget that not any 617 will work. Your car requires the wagon-specific cylinder head with the cast-on SLS pump mount.
CRAP
what about using a nonturbo SLS head on a turbo engine? or will the compression ratio be an issue? i know on gassers this matters, but what about our diesels?
You won't have the turbo valves at least, probably other problems. Maybe you could remove all the valves and such from the turbo sedan head and transfer it over? Im sure someone else can say definitively what else would be missing or be wrong.
....
Castings are the same as turbo units if you have pencil style glow plugs. As drop noted, you'll need to transfer the sodium filled valves..... Basically the whole valvetrain - i.e. cam, springs, followers etc.
.
This post was last modified: 10-06-2010, 03:08 PM by DeliveryValve.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
10-06-2010, 03:06 PM #10(10-06-2010, 03:03 PM)dropnosky(10-06-2010, 02:31 PM)stan(10-06-2010, 06:15 AM)ForcedInduction Don't forget that not any 617 will work. Your car requires the wagon-specific cylinder head with the cast-on SLS pump mount.
CRAP
what about using a nonturbo SLS head on a turbo engine? or will the compression ratio be an issue? i know on gassers this matters, but what about our diesels?
You won't have the turbo valves at least, probably other problems. Maybe you could remove all the valves and such from the turbo sedan head and transfer it over? Im sure someone else can say definitively what else would be missing or be wrong.
....
Castings are the same as turbo units if you have pencil style glow plugs. As drop noted, you'll need to transfer the sodium filled valves..... Basically the whole valvetrain - i.e. cam, springs, followers etc.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
10-06-2010, 03:26 PM
#11
(10-06-2010, 03:06 PM)DeliveryValve Castings are the same as turbo units if you have pencil style glow plugs. As drop noted, you'll need to transfer the sodium filled valves..... Basically the whole valvetrain - i.e. cam, springs, followers etc.
i'm not totally familiar with the intricacies here, is this a job that i can do by just sitting there with some basic hand tools and the two heads (nonturbo wagon, and turbo sedan) in front of me?
(10-06-2010, 03:03 PM)dropnosky Did you buy those springs from propigskin? If so, any engine would work and you would have to put those springs in to compensate for no SLS.
Orrr, you could be the one to figure out an alternative way, maybe an electric pump? to power your SLS with a non wagon motor!
i got the propigskin springs, but then i ended up fixing my sls and it rides great. now i'm not sure if i will a) leave the system alone, sell the springs off, b) put the springs in with the sls for extra lift and awesome beefiness, OR c) remove the sls so i can have a turbo motor.....
This post was last modified: 10-06-2010, 03:29 PM by stan.
(10-06-2010, 03:06 PM)DeliveryValve Castings are the same as turbo units if you have pencil style glow plugs. As drop noted, you'll need to transfer the sodium filled valves..... Basically the whole valvetrain - i.e. cam, springs, followers etc.
i'm not totally familiar with the intricacies here, is this a job that i can do by just sitting there with some basic hand tools and the two heads (nonturbo wagon, and turbo sedan) in front of me?
(10-06-2010, 03:03 PM)dropnosky Did you buy those springs from propigskin? If so, any engine would work and you would have to put those springs in to compensate for no SLS.
Orrr, you could be the one to figure out an alternative way, maybe an electric pump? to power your SLS with a non wagon motor!
i got the propigskin springs, but then i ended up fixing my sls and it rides great. now i'm not sure if i will a) leave the system alone, sell the springs off, b) put the springs in with the sls for extra lift and awesome beefiness, OR c) remove the sls so i can have a turbo motor.....
10-06-2010, 03:36 PM
#12
I would imagine with all the beautiful mountains of rust free gleaming auto parts out there in CA, you should be able to find a wagon specific turbo engine that runs!
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
whats wrong with the NA motor? Is this a far in the future thing, or is the NA 5cyl about to give up the ghost?
I would imagine with all the beautiful mountains of rust free gleaming auto parts out there in CA, you should be able to find a wagon specific turbo engine that runs!
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
10-06-2010, 03:55 PM
#13
(10-06-2010, 03:36 PM)dropnosky whats wrong with the NA motor? Is this a far in the future thing, or is the NA 5cyl about to give up the ghost?
I would imagine with all the beautiful mountains of rust free gleaming auto parts out there in CA, you should be able to find a wagon specific turbo engine that runs!
the na motor is noisy as all hell, and after how much crap i've been fixing on the car, i'm really not wanting to put a lot of stock in the future of the current NA motor. knowing that a replacement is on the horizon i figure why not get all set to do a turbo swap. i figure if i deal with it now, then in the eventuality the engine blows up on me, it will just be a quick swap to get up and running again. i'm driving back and forth between south orange county and santa barbara a lot these days so the miles are piling on quick.
(10-06-2010, 03:36 PM)dropnosky whats wrong with the NA motor? Is this a far in the future thing, or is the NA 5cyl about to give up the ghost?
I would imagine with all the beautiful mountains of rust free gleaming auto parts out there in CA, you should be able to find a wagon specific turbo engine that runs!
the na motor is noisy as all hell, and after how much crap i've been fixing on the car, i'm really not wanting to put a lot of stock in the future of the current NA motor. knowing that a replacement is on the horizon i figure why not get all set to do a turbo swap. i figure if i deal with it now, then in the eventuality the engine blows up on me, it will just be a quick swap to get up and running again. i'm driving back and forth between south orange county and santa barbara a lot these days so the miles are piling on quick.
10-07-2010, 10:40 AM
#14
(10-06-2010, 03:26 PM)stan i'm not totally familiar with the intricacies here, is this a job that i can do by just sitting there with some basic hand tools and the two heads (nonturbo wagon, and turbo sedan) in front of me?
You'll get into fitment issues that it is best you take the heads to a reputable machine shop that works on Mercedes and have them transfer the valvetrain. They'll renewing/machine the valves, guides, seats and etc to the correct spec.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
10-07-2010, 10:40 AM #14(10-06-2010, 03:26 PM)stan i'm not totally familiar with the intricacies here, is this a job that i can do by just sitting there with some basic hand tools and the two heads (nonturbo wagon, and turbo sedan) in front of me?
You'll get into fitment issues that it is best you take the heads to a reputable machine shop that works on Mercedes and have them transfer the valvetrain. They'll renewing/machine the valves, guides, seats and etc to the correct spec.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
10-07-2010, 09:34 PM
#16
i picked the ignition and hooked a battery up to it btu no response - im assuming its a wiring issue since i wasnt getting power anywhere.
inside the rad hoses looks pretty clean, no signs of oil. oil looks normal, no weird crap and no rust - suggests it didnt have a BHG as mine rusted within days of the bhg. turbo has almost zero play in the shaft - definitely normal feeling.
i talked to the yard and they said i'm welcome to try doing whatever including trying to start it. HELPPPP
i'm looking at a little over 300 with their warranty - the warranty is that i have 30 days in which i can return the engine for a one-time exchange or just take store credit.
helphelphlep i wanna figure this out before people start snagging parts fof the car. i locked it up and closed the hood and the latch is broken :-D hopefully nobody is determined enough to crack the hood back open before i get back.
OMG i found a 1985 300TD with the engine intact!!!!
i picked the ignition and hooked a battery up to it btu no response - im assuming its a wiring issue since i wasnt getting power anywhere.
inside the rad hoses looks pretty clean, no signs of oil. oil looks normal, no weird crap and no rust - suggests it didnt have a BHG as mine rusted within days of the bhg. turbo has almost zero play in the shaft - definitely normal feeling.
i talked to the yard and they said i'm welcome to try doing whatever including trying to start it. HELPPPP
i'm looking at a little over 300 with their warranty - the warranty is that i have 30 days in which i can return the engine for a one-time exchange or just take store credit.
helphelphlep i wanna figure this out before people start snagging parts fof the car. i locked it up and closed the hood and the latch is broken :-D hopefully nobody is determined enough to crack the hood back open before i get back.
10-07-2010, 11:42 PM
#17
See that nice big (insert metal casting here)? Jumper cable that to negaive.
From there, just make sure she's not in gear, unhook the vac line to the shutoff, and use a remote start button to power the starter solenoid.
I love these engines...
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
See that big fat wire to the starter? Jumper it to positive on the battery.
See that nice big (insert metal casting here)? Jumper cable that to negaive.
From there, just make sure she's not in gear, unhook the vac line to the shutoff, and use a remote start button to power the starter solenoid.
I love these engines...
1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72
I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
10-08-2010, 10:20 PM
#18
once the head is off, wiggle the crank back and forth and listen / feel for any clunking.
if everything passes, its worth bringing home and opening up. If you find some failure, return it.
a running engine is not always a 'good' engine..... I have one in my car right now.
This post was last modified: 10-08-2010, 10:20 PM by totaldisaster.
totaldisaster
10-08-2010, 10:20 PM #18pull the injectors and turn the crank by hand through 2 full revolutions. If it is smooth, pull the head and inspect the bores / pistons.
once the head is off, wiggle the crank back and forth and listen / feel for any clunking.
if everything passes, its worth bringing home and opening up. If you find some failure, return it.
a running engine is not always a 'good' engine..... I have one in my car right now.
10-09-2010, 06:24 PM
#19
god damn it. went to pull the 85 wagon engine. got the whole engine disconnected (oil cooler lines, ac lines, wiring, rad out) and discovered i didnt have the necessary tool to unbolt the motor mounts. left the junkyard empty handed, with that damn 85 turbo wagon engine nearly ready to pull out. just my luck some dick is gonna come snake it before i come back. UGH
10-09-2010, 07:08 PM
#21
or you could remove the arms (PIA). Most likely, one of the bolts will not come out w/ or w/o the right tool.
totaldisaster
10-09-2010, 07:08 PM #21hmm.... not to rub it in, but you can just yank the engine and the mounts will tear. Pile up some tires under the rear bumper.
or you could remove the arms (PIA). Most likely, one of the bolts will not come out w/ or w/o the right tool.
10-09-2010, 09:50 PM
#22
(10-09-2010, 07:08 PM)totaldisaster hmm.... not to rub it in, but you can just yank the engine and the mounts will tear. Pile up some tires under the rear bumper.
...
That is if the motor mounts are rotted. I've tried that method once at a PNP, up went the motor and along the whole front end of the car. Turns out the motor mounts were fairly new.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
10-09-2010, 09:50 PM #22(10-09-2010, 07:08 PM)totaldisaster hmm.... not to rub it in, but you can just yank the engine and the mounts will tear. Pile up some tires under the rear bumper.
...
That is if the motor mounts are rotted. I've tried that method once at a PNP, up went the motor and along the whole front end of the car. Turns out the motor mounts were fairly new.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
10-09-2010, 10:44 PM
#23
yeah im gonna go get the hex key / socket tomorrow and try and go finish pulling it. any words of wisdom? i havent touched anything down on the tranny side yet. i dont know whether it would be easier to try and detach the tranny first, or just pull it all out as one unit.....
10-10-2010, 01:38 AM
#24
(10-09-2010, 10:44 PM)stan .... any words of wisdom?
Although you stated you disconnected oil cooler line, I would put it back on to keep oil from spilling all over the place.
I would also take some tin snips or hack saw and cut the upper radiator support right off so you won't have to have the engine high to clear it.
If pulling engine and trans as one unit and then separating the trans later, which probably be best with the least frustrations (i.e. stuck starter and bellhousing bolts in a cramped space), make sure you remove the flywheel to torque converter bolts while the engine/trans are still in the car. It is much easier to do that then when the engine is on the hoist or on the ground.
If your transplanting the engine to your TD, you best take the trans also. The N/A transmission is not suited for the turbo motor.
.
This post was last modified: 10-10-2010, 01:40 AM by DeliveryValve.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
10-10-2010, 01:38 AM #24(10-09-2010, 10:44 PM)stan .... any words of wisdom?
Although you stated you disconnected oil cooler line, I would put it back on to keep oil from spilling all over the place.
I would also take some tin snips or hack saw and cut the upper radiator support right off so you won't have to have the engine high to clear it.
If pulling engine and trans as one unit and then separating the trans later, which probably be best with the least frustrations (i.e. stuck starter and bellhousing bolts in a cramped space), make sure you remove the flywheel to torque converter bolts while the engine/trans are still in the car. It is much easier to do that then when the engine is on the hoist or on the ground.
If your transplanting the engine to your TD, you best take the trans also. The N/A transmission is not suited for the turbo motor.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
10-10-2010, 01:56 AM
#25
(10-10-2010, 01:38 AM)DeliveryValve Although you stated you disconnected oil cooler line, I would put it back on to keep oil from spilling all over the place.
I would also take some tin snips or hack saw and cut the upper radiator support right off so you won't have to have the engine high to clear it.
If pulling engine and trans as one unit and then separating the trans later, which probably be best with the least frustrations (i.e. stuck starter and bellhousing bolts in a cramped space), make sure you remove the flywheel to torque converter bolts while the engine/trans are still in the car. It is much easier to do that then when the engine is on the hoist or on the ground.
If your transplanting the engine to your TD, you best take the trans also. The N/A transmission is not suited for the turbo motor.
someone snagged the oil cooler and cut the lower line between the day i found the wagon in the yard, and this morning. no issues there though.
i already cut the radiator support. good tip there.
how do i find these flywheel to torque converter bolts? size? moar info plz?
i will be pulling a known-good transmission, driveshaft, and differential (for 2.88 awesomeness) from my old '85 300D sedan which captain america has now.
the plan is to get hte engine into the back of my wagon, and bring it to its storage location. from there, load it onto a cradle of 4x4s or something. start pulling things apart and cleaning them up / replacing bits. target drop-into-wagon date is christmas break when i wont have much driving that i need to do, and will have plenty of time.
(10-10-2010, 01:38 AM)DeliveryValve Although you stated you disconnected oil cooler line, I would put it back on to keep oil from spilling all over the place.
I would also take some tin snips or hack saw and cut the upper radiator support right off so you won't have to have the engine high to clear it.
If pulling engine and trans as one unit and then separating the trans later, which probably be best with the least frustrations (i.e. stuck starter and bellhousing bolts in a cramped space), make sure you remove the flywheel to torque converter bolts while the engine/trans are still in the car. It is much easier to do that then when the engine is on the hoist or on the ground.
If your transplanting the engine to your TD, you best take the trans also. The N/A transmission is not suited for the turbo motor.
someone snagged the oil cooler and cut the lower line between the day i found the wagon in the yard, and this morning. no issues there though.
i already cut the radiator support. good tip there.
how do i find these flywheel to torque converter bolts? size? moar info plz?
i will be pulling a known-good transmission, driveshaft, and differential (for 2.88 awesomeness) from my old '85 300D sedan which captain america has now.
the plan is to get hte engine into the back of my wagon, and bring it to its storage location. from there, load it onto a cradle of 4x4s or something. start pulling things apart and cleaning them up / replacing bits. target drop-into-wagon date is christmas break when i wont have much driving that i need to do, and will have plenty of time.
10-10-2010, 02:15 AM
#26
(10-10-2010, 01:56 AM)stan ....
how do i find these flywheel to torque converter bolts? size? moar info plz?
...
If you look at the bottom of the bellhousing (engine side). Then look directly from the front there should be a black plastic covering, if not then a open cavity. You will have access to the flywheel bolts from there. There are six bolts (in pairs) with a 13mm head on them. I find it easier to use a swivel socket to get to them.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
10-10-2010, 02:15 AM #26(10-10-2010, 01:56 AM)stan ....
how do i find these flywheel to torque converter bolts? size? moar info plz?
...
If you look at the bottom of the bellhousing (engine side). Then look directly from the front there should be a black plastic covering, if not then a open cavity. You will have access to the flywheel bolts from there. There are six bolts (in pairs) with a 13mm head on them. I find it easier to use a swivel socket to get to them.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
10-10-2010, 08:37 AM
#27
(10-10-2010, 01:56 AM)stan ...
i will be pulling a known-good transmission, driveshaft, and differential (for 2.88 awesomeness) from my old '85 300D sedan which captain america has now.
...
You have a 722.4 on your parts car. If that '85 is a Federal version, the 722.3 trans is stronger. If you decide to use your 722.4, then you might want to take the higher stall torque converter from the 722.3 home with you also. Somebody might want to buy it.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
10-10-2010, 08:37 AM #27(10-10-2010, 01:56 AM)stan ...
i will be pulling a known-good transmission, driveshaft, and differential (for 2.88 awesomeness) from my old '85 300D sedan which captain america has now.
...
You have a 722.4 on your parts car. If that '85 is a Federal version, the 722.3 trans is stronger. If you decide to use your 722.4, then you might want to take the higher stall torque converter from the 722.3 home with you also. Somebody might want to buy it.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
10-10-2010, 11:45 AM
#28
(10-10-2010, 08:37 AM)DeliveryValve You have a 722.4 on your parts car. If that '85 is a Federal version, the 722.3 trans is stronger. If you decide to use your 722.4, then you might want to take the higher stall torque converter from the 722.3 home with you also. Somebody might want to buy it.
.
the wagon at the junkyard is a california car - has the trap oxidizer.
(10-10-2010, 08:37 AM)DeliveryValve You have a 722.4 on your parts car. If that '85 is a Federal version, the 722.3 trans is stronger. If you decide to use your 722.4, then you might want to take the higher stall torque converter from the 722.3 home with you also. Somebody might want to buy it.
.
the wagon at the junkyard is a california car - has the trap oxidizer.
10-10-2010, 08:47 PM
#29
holy shit i'm beat. got the engine and trans out all by myself. the yard wanted $140 for the trans so i'm going back tomorrow (they were closing) to separate the trans from the engine. super stoked, feeling quite accomplished as this is my first time pulling an engine
10-11-2010, 10:08 AM
#30
(10-10-2010, 08:47 PM)stan holy shit i'm beat. got the engine and trans out all by myself. the yard wanted $140 for the trans so i'm going back tomorrow (they were closing) to separate the trans from the engine. super stoked, feeling quite accomplished as this is my first time pulling an engine
Congrats dude! How was it?
Ill be doing the same thing in my driveway in a few months and am pretty nervous.
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
(10-10-2010, 08:47 PM)stan holy shit i'm beat. got the engine and trans out all by myself. the yard wanted $140 for the trans so i'm going back tomorrow (they were closing) to separate the trans from the engine. super stoked, feeling quite accomplished as this is my first time pulling an engine
Congrats dude! How was it?
Ill be doing the same thing in my driveway in a few months and am pretty nervous.
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
10-11-2010, 10:18 AM
#31
(10-11-2010, 10:08 AM)garage Congrats dude! How was it?
Ill be doing the same thing in my driveway in a few months and am pretty nervous.
On the 240?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(10-11-2010, 10:08 AM)garage Congrats dude! How was it?
Ill be doing the same thing in my driveway in a few months and am pretty nervous.
On the 240?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
10-11-2010, 10:22 AM
#32
(10-11-2010, 10:08 AM)garage Congrats dude! How was it?
Ill be doing the same thing in my driveway in a few months and am pretty nervous.
im sore as fuck but it really wasn't *that* bad. maybe i can come spectate when you do yours and help it go a little faster.
10-11-2010, 12:05 PM
#33
(10-11-2010, 10:18 AM)dropnosky(10-11-2010, 10:08 AM)garage Congrats dude! How was it?
Ill be doing the same thing in my driveway in a few months and am pretty nervous.
On the 240?
Yeah well....I found a 240 for sale for 100bucks, i go and look at it and it has the engine torn apart..but OTHER than that, it was garaged its whole life, except for the last 2years or so, theres NO rust on the body, wich is the true reason i bought the car, the interior is really clean almost new, and it has a 4speed!! In the trunk is a head, camshaft, snapped camshaft, gaskets, crankshaft cover, factory took kit, oil pans..all sorts of goodies.
So imma get a head ported out and rebuilt with turbo617 parts, yank the 616 out of betsy, put some new parts on it, clean it up real nice, and drop it in the new 240.
Then ill take the 4speed out of betsy and use it on a future project.
If all goes according to plan..
(10-11-2010, 10:22 AM)stan(10-11-2010, 10:08 AM)garage Congrats dude! How was it?
Ill be doing the same thing in my driveway in a few months and am pretty nervous.
im sore as fuck but it really wasn't *that* bad. maybe i can come spectate when you do yours and help it go a little faster.
Oh you wont even remember that soreness once you hear that turbo spool up!!
Yeah dude for sure im down with that, ill keep you posted on it.
This post was last modified: 10-11-2010, 12:08 PM by garage.
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
(10-11-2010, 10:18 AM)dropnosky(10-11-2010, 10:08 AM)garage Congrats dude! How was it?
Ill be doing the same thing in my driveway in a few months and am pretty nervous.
On the 240?
Yeah well....I found a 240 for sale for 100bucks, i go and look at it and it has the engine torn apart..but OTHER than that, it was garaged its whole life, except for the last 2years or so, theres NO rust on the body, wich is the true reason i bought the car, the interior is really clean almost new, and it has a 4speed!! In the trunk is a head, camshaft, snapped camshaft, gaskets, crankshaft cover, factory took kit, oil pans..all sorts of goodies.
So imma get a head ported out and rebuilt with turbo617 parts, yank the 616 out of betsy, put some new parts on it, clean it up real nice, and drop it in the new 240.
Then ill take the 4speed out of betsy and use it on a future project.
If all goes according to plan..
(10-11-2010, 10:22 AM)stan(10-11-2010, 10:08 AM)garage Congrats dude! How was it?
Ill be doing the same thing in my driveway in a few months and am pretty nervous.
im sore as fuck but it really wasn't *that* bad. maybe i can come spectate when you do yours and help it go a little faster.
Oh you wont even remember that soreness once you hear that turbo spool up!!
Yeah dude for sure im down with that, ill keep you posted on it.
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
10-11-2010, 06:19 PM
#35
(10-11-2010, 12:05 PM)garage Yeah well....I found a 240 for sale for 100bucks, i go and look at it and it has the engine torn apart..but OTHER than that, it was garaged its whole life, except for the last 2years or so, theres NO rust on the body, wich is the true reason i bought the car, the interior is really clean almost new, and it has a 4speed!! In the trunk is a head, camshaft, snapped camshaft, gaskets, crankshaft cover, factory took kit, oil pans..all sorts of goodies.
So imma get a head ported out and rebuilt with turbo617 parts, yank the 616 out of betsy, put some new parts on it, clean it up real nice, and drop it in the new 240.
Then ill take the 4speed out of betsy and use it on a future project.
If all goes according to plan..
Stan will be irritated to watch you remove a 4cyl vs the 5cly turbo.
Its so easy, its not even funny. Lots and lots of room, everything is accessible, no real finageling, apart from the secret bracket under the oil pan attaching it to the cross member like a third mount, it will fly out of that car. (10-11-2010, 05:05 PM)stan ok its official, you can carry a whole om617 with downpipe and all in the back of TD and if your sls is working it will barely even sag. totally awesome. going to go get a harbor freight engine stand tomorrow and attempt to unload the engine tomorrow.
wow, any pics? how is your interior holding up?
This post was last modified: 10-11-2010, 06:20 PM by JB3.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(10-11-2010, 12:05 PM)garage Yeah well....I found a 240 for sale for 100bucks, i go and look at it and it has the engine torn apart..but OTHER than that, it was garaged its whole life, except for the last 2years or so, theres NO rust on the body, wich is the true reason i bought the car, the interior is really clean almost new, and it has a 4speed!! In the trunk is a head, camshaft, snapped camshaft, gaskets, crankshaft cover, factory took kit, oil pans..all sorts of goodies.
So imma get a head ported out and rebuilt with turbo617 parts, yank the 616 out of betsy, put some new parts on it, clean it up real nice, and drop it in the new 240.
Then ill take the 4speed out of betsy and use it on a future project.
If all goes according to plan..
Stan will be irritated to watch you remove a 4cyl vs the 5cly turbo.
Its so easy, its not even funny. Lots and lots of room, everything is accessible, no real finageling, apart from the secret bracket under the oil pan attaching it to the cross member like a third mount, it will fly out of that car. (10-11-2010, 05:05 PM)stan ok its official, you can carry a whole om617 with downpipe and all in the back of TD and if your sls is working it will barely even sag. totally awesome. going to go get a harbor freight engine stand tomorrow and attempt to unload the engine tomorrow.
wow, any pics? how is your interior holding up?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
10-12-2010, 10:00 AM
#36
Theres nothing in the way and tons of elbow room.
Thanks for the heads up on the secret bracket!
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
Yeah i was looking at my engine bay compared to the other Benz's we have with a 617, and its ohh soo niice.
Theres nothing in the way and tons of elbow room.
Thanks for the heads up on the secret bracket!
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
10-12-2010, 10:14 AM
#37
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
10-12-2010, 10:14 AM #37Hell on my 240d I removed most of the bell housing bolts from the top of the engine bay when I swapped transmissions!!! cant do that on a om617 easily!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
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