Turbo 616 powered Astro Van build
Turbo 616 powered Astro Van build
Funola over on PP posted a really useful gearing calculator-
http://www.scirocco.org/gears/
so with my current tire size, in 1st gear with the 3.23 diff, I should be going 18mph at 3k rpm, but with the 4.56 diff, ill only be going 13mph at 3k rpm.
Overdrive calculations are pretty interesting-
If my target speed is 65mph in overdrive-
3.23 diff is turning 2239 RPM
4.56 diff is turning 3160 RPM
As a comparison, if my target RPM is 3k in overdrive-
3.23 diff will have the van traveling at 87mph!
4.56 diff will have the van traveling at only 61mph
No wonder I can't pull overdrive, this van couldn't easily break 90 even with the twice the HP 4.3 in it.
By these calculations I should be in a nice torquey 3100 to 3500 rpm at 70 in overdrive. Thats pretty close to stock MB
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
yesterday I went on jegs and ordered up the 4.56 (not 4.57) ring and pinion that will fit my current diff.
Funola over on PP posted a really useful gearing calculator-
http://www.scirocco.org/gears/
so with my current tire size, in 1st gear with the 3.23 diff, I should be going 18mph at 3k rpm, but with the 4.56 diff, ill only be going 13mph at 3k rpm.
Overdrive calculations are pretty interesting-
If my target speed is 65mph in overdrive-
3.23 diff is turning 2239 RPM
4.56 diff is turning 3160 RPM
As a comparison, if my target RPM is 3k in overdrive-
3.23 diff will have the van traveling at 87mph!
4.56 diff will have the van traveling at only 61mph
No wonder I can't pull overdrive, this van couldn't easily break 90 even with the twice the HP 4.3 in it.
By these calculations I should be in a nice torquey 3100 to 3500 rpm at 70 in overdrive. Thats pretty close to stock MB
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Room inside the hatch is decent, there is good clearance all around the motor-
![[Image: 0016_zpsb0de02a7.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0016_zpsb0de02a7.jpg.html)
from the inside with all the center console hooked up-
![[Image: 011_zps10f7c66b.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/011_zps10f7c66b.jpg.html)
Also received my 4.56 ring and pinion in the mail and pulled a 98 diff assembly to have it swapped over and shimmed for me.
![[Image: 010_zpsf6cd6af4.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/010_zpsf6cd6af4.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
so I have the hatch installed and have been using this van all week for work. Couple little emergencies so far, one the throttle linkage on the injection pump kept popping off, happened twice in heavy traffic, and was a real pain, but i swapped out the end piece with a spare ball joint. The snap ring portion of the original joint was bent in and rusted.
Room inside the hatch is decent, there is good clearance all around the motor-
from the inside with all the center console hooked up-
Also received my 4.56 ring and pinion in the mail and pulled a 98 diff assembly to have it swapped over and shimmed for me.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(07-24-2013, 11:22 AM)Purplecomputer Nice! Hows the 616 turbo treating you in regards to power?
Adequate is the word I would use. Can't wait to get that other diff in there, discovered there is an incline limit to both 1st and reverse today that is not much. Was a a job site had to take a couple running starts to get backed up a relatively steep drive. I need some serious granny gearing in this thing.
Power seems ok, I go back and forth between which is more powerful, the van with the turbo 616, or the na 123 616 I have as a DD. They are pretty comparable power wise
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(07-24-2013, 11:22 AM)Purplecomputer Nice! Hows the 616 turbo treating you in regards to power?
Adequate is the word I would use. Can't wait to get that other diff in there, discovered there is an incline limit to both 1st and reverse today that is not much. Was a a job site had to take a couple running starts to get backed up a relatively steep drive. I need some serious granny gearing in this thing.
Power seems ok, I go back and forth between which is more powerful, the van with the turbo 616, or the na 123 616 I have as a DD. They are pretty comparable power wise
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(07-24-2013, 08:03 PM)JB3(07-24-2013, 11:22 AM)Purplecomputer Nice! Hows the 616 turbo treating you in regards to power?
Adequate is the word I would use. Can't wait to get that other diff in there, discovered there is an incline limit to both 1st and reverse today that is not much. Was a a job site had to take a couple running starts to get backed up a relatively steep drive. I need some serious granny gearing in this thing.
Power seems ok, I go back and forth between which is more powerful, the van with the turbo 616, or the na 123 616 I have as a DD. They are pretty comparable power wise
an SM465 should bolt right up to your adapter plate, and it's got a 6.55:1 first gear
First Gear - 6.55:1
Second Gear - 3.58:1
Third Gear - 1.70:1
Fourth Gear - 1.00:1
Reverse - 6.09:3
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
07-25-2013, 10:19 AM #205(07-24-2013, 08:03 PM)JB3(07-24-2013, 11:22 AM)Purplecomputer Nice! Hows the 616 turbo treating you in regards to power?
Adequate is the word I would use. Can't wait to get that other diff in there, discovered there is an incline limit to both 1st and reverse today that is not much. Was a a job site had to take a couple running starts to get backed up a relatively steep drive. I need some serious granny gearing in this thing.
Power seems ok, I go back and forth between which is more powerful, the van with the turbo 616, or the na 123 616 I have as a DD. They are pretty comparable power wise
an SM465 should bolt right up to your adapter plate, and it's got a 6.55:1 first gear
First Gear - 6.55:1
Second Gear - 3.58:1
Third Gear - 1.70:1
Fourth Gear - 1.00:1
Reverse - 6.09:3
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
update-
so its been pretty useful so far, not much in the way of continued improvement on the swap yet as ive been busy, but day to day use has been quite acceptable.
however, recently I loaded the thing to the ceiling for a repair at a rental-
![[Image: 003_zpsc3aa53fc.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/003_zpsc3aa53fc.jpg.html)
and snapped this rusty, but really important piece-
![[Image: 0017_zpsc5aded19.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0017_zpsc5aded19.jpg.html)
This is the driver side rear fiberglass spring upper clamp, totally broken and widening fast, while also putting quite a twist on the fiberglass.
Ive had to park the van, as soon as I noticed this, I needed to pick up a bunch of ceiling fans about 3 miles away, and by the time I got back, it was a half inch wider at the minimum. That sucker will pop, and ill be in trouble if I push it.
However, the good news is my 97 4.56 diff is ready for installation. This might turn into a larger project involving swapping to steel springs though, the 97 diff assembly has a narrower spring perch for steel springs than the 89 diff assembly, and may not work with the fiberglass.
Either way, that broken clamp has to be fixed asap.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
good info! thanks, that is a good option if im not pleased with the diff
update-
so its been pretty useful so far, not much in the way of continued improvement on the swap yet as ive been busy, but day to day use has been quite acceptable.
however, recently I loaded the thing to the ceiling for a repair at a rental-
and snapped this rusty, but really important piece-
This is the driver side rear fiberglass spring upper clamp, totally broken and widening fast, while also putting quite a twist on the fiberglass.
Ive had to park the van, as soon as I noticed this, I needed to pick up a bunch of ceiling fans about 3 miles away, and by the time I got back, it was a half inch wider at the minimum. That sucker will pop, and ill be in trouble if I push it.
However, the good news is my 97 4.56 diff is ready for installation. This might turn into a larger project involving swapping to steel springs though, the 97 diff assembly has a narrower spring perch for steel springs than the 89 diff assembly, and may not work with the fiberglass.
Either way, that broken clamp has to be fixed asap.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-07-2013, 12:17 PM #207NAPA should stock new U bolts, and then grab enough steel to wedge in there and hold it together. Crappy fix until you can fab a new plate, but will get you home.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
When this first happened I went online and started assembling parts. I figured that if I had the 97 diff, I might as well find matching suspension components until I get to the part that is common between 89 and 97, which is the hangar mounts in the front, and the shackle mount in the rear evidently.
Springs have already arrived (really reasonable price too for them), and I went on a GM factory website for all the not particularly expensive bits, but hard to find and factory order.
These guys haven't even shipped yet, so hopefully they get their act together, but from them I have coming upper clamp mounts, lower clamps, front hangars, and rear shackles, all are specific to steel springs, and wont work with the fiberglass, too narrow
The reason these vans employ the weird clamp setup instead of the more common pair of ubolts and a plate is a clearance issue with the body above. If i just used regular u bolts, id put a hole in the body structure going over a bump
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
good idea, but fortunately its parked where it should be at the moment, and I don't need it for a couple days. If it comes down to it, ill make it work to get to the meet
When this first happened I went online and started assembling parts. I figured that if I had the 97 diff, I might as well find matching suspension components until I get to the part that is common between 89 and 97, which is the hangar mounts in the front, and the shackle mount in the rear evidently.
Springs have already arrived (really reasonable price too for them), and I went on a GM factory website for all the not particularly expensive bits, but hard to find and factory order.
These guys haven't even shipped yet, so hopefully they get their act together, but from them I have coming upper clamp mounts, lower clamps, front hangars, and rear shackles, all are specific to steel springs, and wont work with the fiberglass, too narrow
The reason these vans employ the weird clamp setup instead of the more common pair of ubolts and a plate is a clearance issue with the body above. If i just used regular u bolts, id put a hole in the body structure going over a bump
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(08-07-2013, 12:43 PM)JB3 good idea, but fortunately its parked where it should be at the moment, and I don't need it for a couple days. If it comes down to it, ill make it work to get to the meet
When this first happened I went online and started assembling parts. I figured that if I had the 97 diff, I might as well find matching suspension components until I get to the part that is common between 89 and 97, which is the hangar mounts in the front, and the shackle mount in the rear evidently.
Springs have already arrived (really reasonable price too for them), and I went on a GM factory website for all the not particularly expensive bits, but hard to find and factory order.
These guys haven't even shipped yet, so hopefully they get their act together, but from them I have coming upper clamp mounts, lower clamps, front hangars, and rear shackles, all are specific to steel springs, and wont work with the fiberglass, too narrow
The reason these vans employ the weird clamp setup instead of the more common pair of ubolts and a plate is a clearance issue with the body above. If i just used regular u bolts, id put a hole in the body structure going over a bump
I meant cut a new top plate from 1/4", then torch/hammer/weld it until it fits and hang the u bolts facing down. Still, factory parts would be a better solution.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-07-2013, 02:10 PM #209(08-07-2013, 12:43 PM)JB3 good idea, but fortunately its parked where it should be at the moment, and I don't need it for a couple days. If it comes down to it, ill make it work to get to the meet
When this first happened I went online and started assembling parts. I figured that if I had the 97 diff, I might as well find matching suspension components until I get to the part that is common between 89 and 97, which is the hangar mounts in the front, and the shackle mount in the rear evidently.
Springs have already arrived (really reasonable price too for them), and I went on a GM factory website for all the not particularly expensive bits, but hard to find and factory order.
These guys haven't even shipped yet, so hopefully they get their act together, but from them I have coming upper clamp mounts, lower clamps, front hangars, and rear shackles, all are specific to steel springs, and wont work with the fiberglass, too narrow
The reason these vans employ the weird clamp setup instead of the more common pair of ubolts and a plate is a clearance issue with the body above. If i just used regular u bolts, id put a hole in the body structure going over a bump
I meant cut a new top plate from 1/4", then torch/hammer/weld it until it fits and hang the u bolts facing down. Still, factory parts would be a better solution.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
here is my new diff on the left compared to the original on the right-
![[Image: 0012_zpsa277704f.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Astro%20rear%20suspension/0012_zpsa277704f.jpg.html)
my new and beautiful heavier capacity steel leaf springs-
![[Image: 006_zps57be3c16.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Astro%20rear%20suspension/006_zps57be3c16.jpg.html)
and part of the fiberglass monoleaf attachment. The spring is a little fractured in this component. To swap to steel leaf, I remove this entire hangar arrangement and put in something much simpler
![[Image: 007_zps761eec43.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Astro%20rear%20suspension/007_zps761eec43.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
getting my ass handed to me by rusted fastners on this diff and suspension swap, but moving along, about halfway. Every bolt has had to be extracted as rusted in the bores of the bushings, major PITA. Fuel tank has to come down to remove driver side spring hangar, which is a real chore, but on the plus side, I needed to do that anyway to make my angle iron cover adapter above the fuel tank so it matches the battery
here is my new diff on the left compared to the original on the right-
my new and beautiful heavier capacity steel leaf springs-
and part of the fiberglass monoleaf attachment. The spring is a little fractured in this component. To swap to steel leaf, I remove this entire hangar arrangement and put in something much simpler
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Steel springs probably ride rougher, but man that fiber never sounded like a great idea. I know some exploders came with fiber monoleaves
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-15-2013, 10:08 AM #211That fiber setup is ridiculous. It's crazy how far they will go for a little weight reduction/ cost savings.
Steel springs probably ride rougher, but man that fiber never sounded like a great idea. I know some exploders came with fiber monoleaves
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(08-15-2013, 10:08 AM)Simpler=Better That fiber setup is ridiculous. It's crazy how far they will go for a little weight reduction/ cost savings.
Steel springs probably ride rougher, but man that fiber never sounded like a great idea. I know some exploders came with fiber monoleaves
It IS way lighter, like a 3rd the weight, but boy am I glad these are off. From a load standpoint, 20 year old fiberglass springs were a source of concern for me.
here is the monoleaf compared to the steel- The monoleaf has these rubber blocks glued to it sort of 1/3rd the way through. Curious what their function is, if it has something to do with vibration, noise? interesting concept
![[Image: 003_zps5ab08995.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Astro%20rear%20suspension/003_zps5ab08995.jpg.html)
Driver side monoleaf front hangar was a bit rusty-
![[Image: 014_zps462c6821.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Astro%20rear%20suspension/014_zps462c6821.jpg.html)
the 4.56 installed! Still have to hook up and fix the brakes and wire wheel a lot of it and refinish it. Ironically the shoes on this yard diff were in better shape than the ones i had on the 3.23, so Im sort of take the best of both to remake my rear brakes
![[Image: 022_zps39e04cdc.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Astro%20rear%20suspension/022_zps39e04cdc.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(08-15-2013, 10:08 AM)Simpler=Better That fiber setup is ridiculous. It's crazy how far they will go for a little weight reduction/ cost savings.
Steel springs probably ride rougher, but man that fiber never sounded like a great idea. I know some exploders came with fiber monoleaves
It IS way lighter, like a 3rd the weight, but boy am I glad these are off. From a load standpoint, 20 year old fiberglass springs were a source of concern for me.
here is the monoleaf compared to the steel- The monoleaf has these rubber blocks glued to it sort of 1/3rd the way through. Curious what their function is, if it has something to do with vibration, noise? interesting concept
Driver side monoleaf front hangar was a bit rusty-
the 4.56 installed! Still have to hook up and fix the brakes and wire wheel a lot of it and refinish it. Ironically the shoes on this yard diff were in better shape than the ones i had on the 3.23, so Im sort of take the best of both to remake my rear brakes
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
The rubber bump stops were probably so you didn't crack the spring when it is overloaded. Or they were there to change the natural frequency of the springs to avoid resonance
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-15-2013, 03:20 PM #213Looks good.
The rubber bump stops were probably so you didn't crack the spring when it is overloaded. Or they were there to change the natural frequency of the springs to avoid resonance
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
I think the rubber parts are vibration dampers.
Looking good though!
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
08-16-2013, 01:39 AM #214I was always a big fan of those fiberglass springs. First thoughts were how corrosion proof they were.... Not!
I think the rubber parts are vibration dampers.
Looking good though!
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
can you pos a video of it, and how it goes ?
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
Tradeoff is van is slightly slower, 1st gear is almost a granny gear now. Very pleased though, now can dial in and tweak the power output. Gonna test towing performance next week. The difference in highway note and feel is amazing, engine seems overall way more comfortable in all gears, theres less of a valley between gears if you catch my meaning, you don't have to wind it out in first to catch 2nd at a pullable rpm in other words
Another issue is now with this diff, the popping the clutch stalling method of shutting it off does not work in 1st. The torque multiplication makes that super violent, like throw your forward violent.
(08-15-2013, 03:20 PM)Simpler=Better Looks good.
The rubber bump stops were probably so you didn't crack the spring when it is overloaded. Or they were there to change the natural frequency of the springs to avoid resonance
(08-15-2013, 03:20 PM)Deliveryvalve I was always a big fan of those fiberglass springs. First thoughts were how corrosion proof they were.... Not!
I think the rubber parts are vibration dampers.
Looking good though!
Im thinking you guys are exactly right about resonance vibration dampers. Hard material block suspended by rubber in a mounting cup
![[Image: 003_zpse01503be.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Astro%20rear%20suspension/003_zpse01503be.jpg.html)
here is one that was breaking off-
![[Image: 0042_zps2158d421.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/Astro%20rear%20suspension/0042_zps2158d421.jpg.html)
(08-16-2013, 02:33 AM)Ksteen2 can you pos a video of it, and how it goes ?
will do! trying to figure out how to suspend the camera higher.
but eventually will get a driving video up
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
4.56 did the trick! 1st sluggishness gone, can pull overdrive with good cruising note on highway, most importantly can do hill starts in 1st now. Very steep little hill near work, previously had to floor in 1st and nearly stall out on the top, now can pull 2nd up same hill and downshift into first at the top, closer to the 240. Gonna try long steep hill elswhere with stop sign at the top and see how it compares to my DD 240 sedan, which can pull second up that hill
Tradeoff is van is slightly slower, 1st gear is almost a granny gear now. Very pleased though, now can dial in and tweak the power output. Gonna test towing performance next week. The difference in highway note and feel is amazing, engine seems overall way more comfortable in all gears, theres less of a valley between gears if you catch my meaning, you don't have to wind it out in first to catch 2nd at a pullable rpm in other words
Another issue is now with this diff, the popping the clutch stalling method of shutting it off does not work in 1st. The torque multiplication makes that super violent, like throw your forward violent.
(08-15-2013, 03:20 PM)Simpler=Better Looks good.
The rubber bump stops were probably so you didn't crack the spring when it is overloaded. Or they were there to change the natural frequency of the springs to avoid resonance
(08-15-2013, 03:20 PM)Deliveryvalve I was always a big fan of those fiberglass springs. First thoughts were how corrosion proof they were.... Not!
I think the rubber parts are vibration dampers.
Looking good though!
Im thinking you guys are exactly right about resonance vibration dampers. Hard material block suspended by rubber in a mounting cup
here is one that was breaking off-
(08-16-2013, 02:33 AM)Ksteen2 can you pos a video of it, and how it goes ?
will do! trying to figure out how to suspend the camera higher.
but eventually will get a driving video up
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(08-16-2013, 07:17 AM)JB3 4.56 did the trick! 1st sluggishness gone, can pull overdrive with good cruising note on highway, most importantly can do hill starts in 1st now. Very steep little hill near work, previously had to floor in 1st and nearly stall out on the top, now can pull 2nd up same hill and downshift into first at the top, closer to the 240. Gonna try long steep hill elswhere with stop sign at the top and see how it compares to my DD 240 sedan, which can pull second up that hill
Tradeoff is van is slightly slower, 1st gear is almost a granny gear now. Very pleased though, now can dial in and tweak the power output. Gonna test towing performance next week. The difference in highway note and feel is amazing, engine seems overall way more comfortable in all gears, theres less of a valley between gears if you catch my meaning, you don't have to wind it out in first to catch 2nd at a pullable rpm in other words
Another issue is now with this diff, the popping the clutch stalling method of shutting it off does not work in 1st. The torque multiplication makes that super violent, like throw your forward violent.
(08-15-2013, 03:20 PM)Simpler=Better Looks good.
The rubber bump stops were probably so you didn't crack the spring when it is overloaded. Or they were there to change the natural frequency of the springs to avoid resonance
(08-15-2013, 03:20 PM)Deliveryvalve I was always a big fan of those fiberglass springs. First thoughts were how corrosion proof they were.... Not!
I think the rubber parts are vibration dampers.
Looking good though!
Im thinking you guys are exactly right about resonance vibration dampers. Hard material block suspended by rubber in a mounting cup
here is one that was breaking off-
(08-16-2013, 02:33 AM)Ksteen2 can you pos a video of it, and how it goes ?
will do! trying to figure out how to suspend the camera higher.
but eventually will get a driving video up
Awesome! You need to take 30 minutes to do the $5 syringe shutoff thing, even if it isn't the right way
Edit: The thread on the bottom of you camera is 1/4-20 unless it's something weird. Or just tape it to the rear view mirror
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-16-2013, 07:51 AM #217(08-16-2013, 07:17 AM)JB3 4.56 did the trick! 1st sluggishness gone, can pull overdrive with good cruising note on highway, most importantly can do hill starts in 1st now. Very steep little hill near work, previously had to floor in 1st and nearly stall out on the top, now can pull 2nd up same hill and downshift into first at the top, closer to the 240. Gonna try long steep hill elswhere with stop sign at the top and see how it compares to my DD 240 sedan, which can pull second up that hill
Tradeoff is van is slightly slower, 1st gear is almost a granny gear now. Very pleased though, now can dial in and tweak the power output. Gonna test towing performance next week. The difference in highway note and feel is amazing, engine seems overall way more comfortable in all gears, theres less of a valley between gears if you catch my meaning, you don't have to wind it out in first to catch 2nd at a pullable rpm in other words
Another issue is now with this diff, the popping the clutch stalling method of shutting it off does not work in 1st. The torque multiplication makes that super violent, like throw your forward violent.
(08-15-2013, 03:20 PM)Simpler=Better Looks good.
The rubber bump stops were probably so you didn't crack the spring when it is overloaded. Or they were there to change the natural frequency of the springs to avoid resonance
(08-15-2013, 03:20 PM)Deliveryvalve I was always a big fan of those fiberglass springs. First thoughts were how corrosion proof they were.... Not!
I think the rubber parts are vibration dampers.
Looking good though!
Im thinking you guys are exactly right about resonance vibration dampers. Hard material block suspended by rubber in a mounting cup
here is one that was breaking off-
(08-16-2013, 02:33 AM)Ksteen2 can you pos a video of it, and how it goes ?
will do! trying to figure out how to suspend the camera higher.
but eventually will get a driving video up
Awesome! You need to take 30 minutes to do the $5 syringe shutoff thing, even if it isn't the right way
Edit: The thread on the bottom of you camera is 1/4-20 unless it's something weird. Or just tape it to the rear view mirror
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(08-16-2013, 07:51 AM)Simpler=Better Awesome! You need to take 30 minutes to do the $5 syringe shutoff thing, even if it isn't the right way
Edit: The thread on the bottom of you camera is 1/4-20 unless it's something weird. Or just tape it to the rear view mirror
getting it to shut off today, I agree. Ive been super lazy with that, and things will start to get damaged if I continue in my ways.
here is a shaky video where I just held the camera, please excuse my elderly vehicle handling and especially turning and shifting, this thing is really hard to drive one handed it turns out. The video ends abruptly as there as a guy with a bunch of unleashed dogs strolling down the street
Ill shoot a better one later where I go out on the highway, ill affix the camera to the dash when i do that. Kinda late in the video is that short steep hill near work, where with this new diff I puttered right up in first. This was totally impossible before, I had to get a running start
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pOhjKl-uwI
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(08-16-2013, 07:51 AM)Simpler=Better Awesome! You need to take 30 minutes to do the $5 syringe shutoff thing, even if it isn't the right way
Edit: The thread on the bottom of you camera is 1/4-20 unless it's something weird. Or just tape it to the rear view mirror
getting it to shut off today, I agree. Ive been super lazy with that, and things will start to get damaged if I continue in my ways.
here is a shaky video where I just held the camera, please excuse my elderly vehicle handling and especially turning and shifting, this thing is really hard to drive one handed it turns out. The video ends abruptly as there as a guy with a bunch of unleashed dogs strolling down the street
Ill shoot a better one later where I go out on the highway, ill affix the camera to the dash when i do that. Kinda late in the video is that short steep hill near work, where with this new diff I puttered right up in first. This was totally impossible before, I had to get a running start
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pOhjKl-uwI
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Do you have a pyrometer installed?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-22-2013, 11:32 AM #219I'm pretty sure teh brain trust at benzfest can tweak that M pump up. Or at least we can make it run away.
Do you have a pyrometer installed?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(08-22-2013, 11:32 AM)Simpler=Better I'm pretty sure teh brain trust at benzfest can tweak that M pump up. Or at least we can make it run away.
Do you have a pyrometer installed?
not yet,
working on redoing the transmission mount, and reinforcing the exhaust downpipe. The exhaust pipe is either going to crack the turbo housing, or break off at the weld without at least one brace on it to the transmission, maybe a second at the manifold
Im hoping to get a pyro in, but honestly, its going to be a near run thing with all the other stuff that has to be done tonight. And then theres work im supposed to be doing right now.....
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(08-22-2013, 11:32 AM)Simpler=Better I'm pretty sure teh brain trust at benzfest can tweak that M pump up. Or at least we can make it run away.
Do you have a pyrometer installed?
not yet,
working on redoing the transmission mount, and reinforcing the exhaust downpipe. The exhaust pipe is either going to crack the turbo housing, or break off at the weld without at least one brace on it to the transmission, maybe a second at the manifold
Im hoping to get a pyro in, but honestly, its going to be a near run thing with all the other stuff that has to be done tonight. And then theres work im supposed to be doing right now.....
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Since I spaced the subframe, I had this going on with the transmission mount-
![[Image: 0017_zps36cd1bf7.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0017_zps36cd1bf7.jpg.html)
I had it hacked together for a while with a couple 3.5 inch pallet jack wheels as spacers, but this was perpetually getting loose, and was really just a temporary solution-
![[Image: 0012_zps7eb169f2.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0012_zps7eb169f2.jpg.html)
replaced the drop mount with a piece of 2 inch pipe instead-
![[Image: 002_zpsf0eeb3a8.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/002_zpsf0eeb3a8.jpg.html)
![[Image: 003_zps28d53f08.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/003_zps28d53f08.jpg.html)
Next issue was I needed to support the downpipe. The flex joint I had put in was a bit small, and instead of taking up some of the flex, was just transmitting vibration up to the bolt flange where the downpipe connects to the turbo flange. Either the downpipe was going to crack at the flange, or the turbo housing was going to be damaged, so I wanted to make a beefy support
![[Image: 0042_zps4d89974a.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0042_zps4d89974a.jpg.html)
![[Image: 0052_zpsbac60e07.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0052_zpsbac60e07.jpg.html)
![[Image: 006_zps7fb9bed5.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/006_zps7fb9bed5.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
took care of those two mounts-
Since I spaced the subframe, I had this going on with the transmission mount-
I had it hacked together for a while with a couple 3.5 inch pallet jack wheels as spacers, but this was perpetually getting loose, and was really just a temporary solution-
replaced the drop mount with a piece of 2 inch pipe instead-
Next issue was I needed to support the downpipe. The flex joint I had put in was a bit small, and instead of taking up some of the flex, was just transmitting vibration up to the bolt flange where the downpipe connects to the turbo flange. Either the downpipe was going to crack at the flange, or the turbo housing was going to be damaged, so I wanted to make a beefy support
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Im familiar with Isspro at the high end, installed a bunch of those and was heading that route, except for the $$$$$ price tag on Isspro gauges making it a long time before I can afford to buy all these below- Also, my opinion on Isspro is its a high quality product, but some of their gauges are WAY too complex for what they need to do.
Anyone have opinions on autometer?
what I need-
1-Speedo -Electronic self calibrating-
2- EGT -250-1650F-
3- Boost -0-15psi-
4- Oil Pressure -0-100psi-
5- Voltage
6- Fuel Level 0-90 ohms
7- Engine Temp- 100-250F
and im going to need an aftermarket dimmer switch as well
I priced it out buying all VDO gauges, and keeping the three crappy sunpro gauges I have installed for oil pressure, voltage, and temp, and im looking at about 500 bucks in gauges to do all VDO. The most expensive ones are EGT and the electronic speedo (with included digital odometer).
Also, has anyone installed one of these interesting self calibrating electronic speedos? How reliable are they? Sounds like an ideal solution, all I have to do is wire up the gauge to the hall effect sensor in the transmission, drive an exact measured 2 miles for calibration, and it will compensate for tire size, rear end, ect and work properly according to the sales literature
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
anyone recommend some gauges they have gotten good service from?
Im familiar with Isspro at the high end, installed a bunch of those and was heading that route, except for the $$$$$ price tag on Isspro gauges making it a long time before I can afford to buy all these below- Also, my opinion on Isspro is its a high quality product, but some of their gauges are WAY too complex for what they need to do.
Anyone have opinions on autometer?
what I need-
1-Speedo -Electronic self calibrating-
2- EGT -250-1650F-
3- Boost -0-15psi-
4- Oil Pressure -0-100psi-
5- Voltage
6- Fuel Level 0-90 ohms
7- Engine Temp- 100-250F
and im going to need an aftermarket dimmer switch as well
I priced it out buying all VDO gauges, and keeping the three crappy sunpro gauges I have installed for oil pressure, voltage, and temp, and im looking at about 500 bucks in gauges to do all VDO. The most expensive ones are EGT and the electronic speedo (with included digital odometer).
Also, has anyone installed one of these interesting self calibrating electronic speedos? How reliable are they? Sounds like an ideal solution, all I have to do is wire up the gauge to the hall effect sensor in the transmission, drive an exact measured 2 miles for calibration, and it will compensate for tire size, rear end, ect and work properly according to the sales literature
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
http://auberins.com/
EDIT: Auber also has digital tachs that run on a magnet. Maybe you could ram one of these on the crank?
EDIT2: The tach has a counter too. With a remote switch yo ucould keep track of how many times the rear suspension bottoms out
Or just the startsOn my Ninja I run a trailtech vapor gauge cluster. It figures out speed via a magnet on the front wheel, temp via an electronic sensor, rpm via the coil ground. They're around $100 and work well (except for the tach I wouldn't get it working right)
http://trailtech.net/vapor.html
There are tons of motorcycle gauge that can be reworked "easily". Koso (sp?) makes some qicked super rice gauges that are crazy fun-like changing the backlighting when you hit redline, etc.
If you google DIY tachometer there's more than a few writeups on making a tach from scratch
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
08-28-2013, 09:35 AM #223Auber instruments sells a $60 digital EGT gauge it's great, and remembers the max, and will also trip a relay at a setpoint-so you can have an alarm go off for high egts, or trip a vacuum switch and activate an ALDA to cut back the fuel. The gauge can be recalibrated for boost, voltage, temp, etc. They have a bunch of info on their website.
http://auberins.com/
EDIT: Auber also has digital tachs that run on a magnet. Maybe you could ram one of these on the crank?
EDIT2: The tach has a counter too. With a remote switch yo ucould keep track of how many times the rear suspension bottoms out Or just the starts
On my Ninja I run a trailtech vapor gauge cluster. It figures out speed via a magnet on the front wheel, temp via an electronic sensor, rpm via the coil ground. They're around $100 and work well (except for the tach I wouldn't get it working right)
http://trailtech.net/vapor.html
There are tons of motorcycle gauge that can be reworked "easily". Koso (sp?) makes some qicked super rice gauges that are crazy fun-like changing the backlighting when you hit redline, etc.
If you google DIY tachometer there's more than a few writeups on making a tach from scratch
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Ive shot an incredibly long and probably horrendously boring for people video of driving around now that I finally found a way to affix the camera.
it turned out to be 19 minutes long, if you skip to half way though, there is some highway driving. Things are a bit louder than the video demonstrates, but not by much.
also my restart issue is demonstrated here pretty well, still working on that
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALuo4...ature=youtu.be
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Awesome, thanks for the links and ideas!
Ive shot an incredibly long and probably horrendously boring for people video of driving around now that I finally found a way to affix the camera.
it turned out to be 19 minutes long, if you skip to half way though, there is some highway driving. Things are a bit louder than the video demonstrates, but not by much.
also my restart issue is demonstrated here pretty well, still working on that
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALuo4...ature=youtu.be
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
the video don't work :o
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
(09-04-2013, 03:12 AM)Ksteen2 the video don't work :o
here is another link-
Is there a way to imbed?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALuo4-5oheY
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(09-04-2013, 03:12 AM)Ksteen2 the video don't work :o
here is another link-
Is there a way to imbed?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALuo4-5oheY
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-04-2013, 02:41 PM #227upper gasket leak? pressure wash and RTV it sun
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
This person has me beat by a couple years on the conversion. Wish this video was about the van and not the graphics on it though. Couldn't find any info on it, but would love to compare notes with this person
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDRGyWBvbVI
mine is a 240VDT, his/hers with the 5cyl would be a 300VDT-Z (for zombie
)The mercedes symbol does not actually look as bad in the center of the grill as I thought honestly. Though this van is using a safari grill, which is a lot different in design than the astro grill. I happen to have a safari grill as a spare though. Might do a test
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
check this out-
This person has me beat by a couple years on the conversion. Wish this video was about the van and not the graphics on it though. Couldn't find any info on it, but would love to compare notes with this person
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDRGyWBvbVI
mine is a 240VDT, his/hers with the 5cyl would be a 300VDT-Z (for zombie )
The mercedes symbol does not actually look as bad in the center of the grill as I thought honestly. Though this van is using a safari grill, which is a lot different in design than the astro grill. I happen to have a safari grill as a spare though. Might do a test
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
the media used to look like the filter on the left-
pretty nasty
A lot of this can be debris from the work done and the first filter catching it, but I think ill check this filter every oil change, its amazing how fast a fuel filter can clog. Filter change is pretty easy though, takes about 2 minutes, and less just to pop the top and check the media, so I can do this all the time. Long term though a restriction gauge would be nice, ill add that to my list of gauges
![[Image: 012_zps286bdb2a.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/012_zps286bdb2a.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
changed the fuel filter after what I estimate to be a little less than 5k on the conversion-
the media used to look like the filter on the left-
pretty nasty
A lot of this can be debris from the work done and the first filter catching it, but I think ill check this filter every oil change, its amazing how fast a fuel filter can clog. Filter change is pretty easy though, takes about 2 minutes, and less just to pop the top and check the media, so I can do this all the time. Long term though a restriction gauge would be nice, ill add that to my list of gauges
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-22-2013, 12:50 PM #230Diesel fuel quality is a total crapshoot. Do you have space for a stationary 100+gal tank at your house? I'd love to setup a tank with sight glass and siphon to let the garbage settle out.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(10-22-2013, 12:50 PM)Simpler=Better Diesel fuel quality is a total crapshoot. Do you have space for a stationary 100+gal tank at your house? I'd love to setup a tank with sight glass and siphon to let the garbage settle out.
If I end up in a place with an outbuilding a couple hundred yards away from the house downhill, id think about storing fuel. As it stands, my garage is under my living room. I tend to freak out about fire risks to my precious skin.
so winterization of this van is now an absolute priority. Started first crank today at 15F, which was great, since the windchill was considerably lower than that.
But speaking of windchill, the door seals are all crap, and I seem to have fried my blower motor, plus all the avenues into the van through floor holes, and its a bitter, drafty ride.
Made a 50 mile drive into a frozen headwind yesterday, and it was punishment all the way. The hole where I put the first clutch attempt in might as well be an air jet direct to the crotch region of the driver.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(10-22-2013, 12:50 PM)Simpler=Better Diesel fuel quality is a total crapshoot. Do you have space for a stationary 100+gal tank at your house? I'd love to setup a tank with sight glass and siphon to let the garbage settle out.
If I end up in a place with an outbuilding a couple hundred yards away from the house downhill, id think about storing fuel. As it stands, my garage is under my living room. I tend to freak out about fire risks to my precious skin.
so winterization of this van is now an absolute priority. Started first crank today at 15F, which was great, since the windchill was considerably lower than that.
But speaking of windchill, the door seals are all crap, and I seem to have fried my blower motor, plus all the avenues into the van through floor holes, and its a bitter, drafty ride.
Made a 50 mile drive into a frozen headwind yesterday, and it was punishment all the way. The hole where I put the first clutch attempt in might as well be an air jet direct to the crotch region of the driver.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
still dealing with the startup issue after shutdown.
I did change from the overboost valve to a giant fuel selector valve you can actually feel activating when you turn the key. There is no question its fully turning, and the way the vehicle operates is the same.
There is no reason this arrangement should not work properly, with the key on, the vac to injection pump is fully open to atmosphere, yet im still having issues starting back up right after running. Ive tested the line, and no residual vac in the line, yet still the hard to restart
Im wondering if maybe my issue is the injection pump shutoff valve itself? Could it be sluggish or sticky and not moving back fully? is there anything that could prevent diaphram from releasing fully?
It really acts like the line is still seeing engine vac, but its not at all. Instant bleed off. This is a weird issue
Here is the change in vac shutoff valves-
first version-
![[Image: 0012_zps4b80787e.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0012_zps4b80787e.jpg.html)
version 2 over the top solution-
![[Image: 0018_zps09e53dd6.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0018_zps09e53dd6.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
so.....
still dealing with the startup issue after shutdown.
I did change from the overboost valve to a giant fuel selector valve you can actually feel activating when you turn the key. There is no question its fully turning, and the way the vehicle operates is the same.
There is no reason this arrangement should not work properly, with the key on, the vac to injection pump is fully open to atmosphere, yet im still having issues starting back up right after running. Ive tested the line, and no residual vac in the line, yet still the hard to restart
Im wondering if maybe my issue is the injection pump shutoff valve itself? Could it be sluggish or sticky and not moving back fully? is there anything that could prevent diaphram from releasing fully?
It really acts like the line is still seeing engine vac, but its not at all. Instant bleed off. This is a weird issue
Here is the change in vac shutoff valves-
first version-
version 2 over the top solution-
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
11-26-2013, 11:31 AM #233I've read some where there needs to be a small hole in the line some where before the shut off to release the pressure. The amount of vacuum will over come a small leak and shut it off. Then the the leaks releases the pressure after the vacuum source is off/engine off
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
The issue comes from me going with an aftermarket lower control arm, aftermarket drop spindles, and an aftermarket new front swaybar.
Until now if you cut the steering wheel all the way over, the tire would hit the swaybar and stop the van, depending on how hard you tried to turn. In tight quarters it was really a problem. Now I realize why I was having this problem.
The aftermarket drop spindle has a bolt hole and I neglected to install a bolt and adjust where my wheel stop should be. whoops
![[Image: 0014_zps1dd1893f.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0014_zps1dd1893f.jpg.html)
cooking tire-
![[Image: 0024_zpsd1a927a2.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0024_zpsd1a927a2.jpg.html)
good news is that with this knowledge, I can get larger tires and install a wheel stop for them. A little beefier rubber would look good
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
alternator bearing is failing, so parked the van waiting for a new one and starting checking things over. Finally realized why im having so much trouble with my turning radius and cooking tires.
The issue comes from me going with an aftermarket lower control arm, aftermarket drop spindles, and an aftermarket new front swaybar.
Until now if you cut the steering wheel all the way over, the tire would hit the swaybar and stop the van, depending on how hard you tried to turn. In tight quarters it was really a problem. Now I realize why I was having this problem.
The aftermarket drop spindle has a bolt hole and I neglected to install a bolt and adjust where my wheel stop should be. whoops
cooking tire-
good news is that with this knowledge, I can get larger tires and install a wheel stop for them. A little beefier rubber would look good
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
I have the day off today, waiting on materials for work, so lets see how far I can get on this swap today. Intended repower plant is a 617 out of an 83 300D
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
it is time. 617 swap commencing.
I have the day off today, waiting on materials for work, so lets see how far I can get on this swap today. Intended repower plant is a 617 out of an 83 300D
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(12-05-2013, 09:43 AM)Purplecomputer what happened with the 616?
needed to fix a bunch of stuff in addition to the heavy leaking, and decided might as well do the swap and put the 616 on a stand for later use
making good progress so far, ill post some pics later
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(12-05-2013, 09:43 AM)Purplecomputer what happened with the 616?
needed to fix a bunch of stuff in addition to the heavy leaking, and decided might as well do the swap and put the 616 on a stand for later use
making good progress so far, ill post some pics later
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
a stock 617 turbo with non egr manifolds a stock kkk k26 turbo and the alda maxed will haul ass.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-05-2013, 12:14 PM #238More power! I think you will like the extra power of the 617 and torque almost 180ftlb stock
a stock 617 turbo with non egr manifolds a stock kkk k26 turbo and the alda maxed will haul ass.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(12-05-2013, 12:14 PM)willbhere4u More power! I think you will like the extra power of the 617 and torque almost 180ftlb stock
a stock 617 turbo with non egr manifolds a stock kkk k26 turbo and the alda maxed will haul ass.
thats the plan, I want power to spare now. I enjoyed the 616, but the 617 with the 4.56 diff will be quite pleasant as far as torque. The top speed will be the same, but twice the power will be nice.
So far making good progress, im getting my ass handed to me by the GM passenger side motor mount, which is hell to change. Other than that, got the van apart and test fitting the 617 at the moment
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(12-05-2013, 12:14 PM)willbhere4u More power! I think you will like the extra power of the 617 and torque almost 180ftlb stock
a stock 617 turbo with non egr manifolds a stock kkk k26 turbo and the alda maxed will haul ass.
thats the plan, I want power to spare now. I enjoyed the 616, but the 617 with the 4.56 diff will be quite pleasant as far as torque. The top speed will be the same, but twice the power will be nice.
So far making good progress, im getting my ass handed to me by the GM passenger side motor mount, which is hell to change. Other than that, got the van apart and test fitting the 617 at the moment
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
First, dropped the subframe with the 616 and T5 on it-
![[Image: 009_zpse2a12da8.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/009_zpse2a12da8.jpg.html)
Removed the T5 and exposed a couple issues I wanted to resolve-
Here is what the adapter looked like after I think 8k on it (guesstimate)
![[Image: 011_zps94258f00.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/011_zps94258f00.jpg.html)
Once again im having an issue with the pilot bearing, as you can see here, the bearing adapter is clearly spinning in the bore-
![[Image: 013_zps2554458e.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/013_zps2554458e.jpg.html)
![[Image: 012_zpsa7653b0e.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/012_zpsa7653b0e.jpg.html)
I think most of my issue has been that this adapter was made for the NV3500 and family of gearboxes, and this T5 must have a different depth spline, which has been a fairly annoying issue, if you recall I dropped the transmission 3 separate times screwing with this issue.
Have that resolved finally I think though.
So here is the 617 and the removed 616-
![[Image: 017_zpsb6c2cb05.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/017_zpsb6c2cb05.jpg.html)
here is the back of the 617, and the adapter installed and painted this time-
![[Image: 018_zps11c196bb.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/018_zps11c196bb.jpg.html)
![[Image: 019_zps909be95b.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/019_zps909be95b.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
ok, very tiring day, but got a lot accomplished-
First, dropped the subframe with the 616 and T5 on it-
Removed the T5 and exposed a couple issues I wanted to resolve-
Here is what the adapter looked like after I think 8k on it (guesstimate)
Once again im having an issue with the pilot bearing, as you can see here, the bearing adapter is clearly spinning in the bore-
I think most of my issue has been that this adapter was made for the NV3500 and family of gearboxes, and this T5 must have a different depth spline, which has been a fairly annoying issue, if you recall I dropped the transmission 3 separate times screwing with this issue.
Have that resolved finally I think though.
So here is the 617 and the removed 616-
here is the back of the 617, and the adapter installed and painted this time-
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
12-05-2013, 04:50 PM #241While the 617 is out replace the IP gasket, IP rear cover gasket, rear cover screws, modify that 3rd IP bolt to be easier to access, and replace the oil filter gasket. Then you're good to go for pump tweaking. Much easier to scrape off gaskets now that when it's in the dog house.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-05-2013, 04:52 PM #242looking good
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
So, I ended up doing a test fit and have a pretty blatant witness mark on the pilot bushing showing that the depth was still wrong-
few millimeters shy-
![[Image: 022_zps813a098b.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/022_zps813a098b.jpg.html)
witness mark at that depth-
![[Image: 024_zps460c2b03.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/024_zps460c2b03.jpg.html)
so I shaved a few more MM off the pilot bushing, and we are good. Long run I want to remachine the adapter so I can put a stock GM bearing in there, next time I open clutch probably, but i need the van right now, so this solution is ok for the moment.
![[Image: 029_zpse2253d87.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/029_zpse2253d87.jpg.html)
Clutch reinstalled-
![[Image: 021_zps99b0a007.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/021_zps99b0a007.jpg.html)
617 and gearbox assembled-
![[Image: 030_zpsa8c29975.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/030_zpsa8c29975.jpg.html)
Next the new drivetrain reinstalled on the subframe-
![[Image: 037_zps96e51746.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/037_zps96e51746.jpg.html)
In what im going to call an amazing stroke of fortune, I was able to take the 616 driver side engine mount I made, and use it with minimal modification on the 617 passenger side, and the reverse by drilling a few holes and a few minutes with the grinder.
![[Image: 038_zpsde6e97d4.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/038_zpsde6e97d4.jpg.html)
![[Image: 036_zps5c7c10d6.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/036_zps5c7c10d6.jpg.html)
However, that won't do long run and I will need to remake the mounts, but the spacing looks pretty decent so far. On those two mounts, the heavier motor is a lot closer to the drag link, not going to work.
![[Image: 039_zps5e0df2f0.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/039_zps5e0df2f0.jpg.html)
Probably going to fabricate some new mounts to hold the engine in approximately this position-
![[Image: 034_zps4f9a27c2.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/034_zps4f9a27c2.jpg.html)
First thing in the morning making new mounts, id like to get the subframe back up and see what im dealing with as far as brake booster clearance
(12-05-2013, 04:50 PM)Simpler=Better While the 617 is out replace the IP gasket, IP rear cover gasket, rear cover screws, modify that 3rd IP bolt to be easier to access, and replace the oil filter gasket. Then you're good to go for pump tweaking. Much easier to scrape off gaskets now that when it's in the dog house.
Ill return to that for sure, however i need to get this done fairly quick at the moment so some of the resealing will definitely have to take place in vehicle. Want to see the access, but it should be fairly good hopefully
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
ok, part 2.
So, I ended up doing a test fit and have a pretty blatant witness mark on the pilot bushing showing that the depth was still wrong-
few millimeters shy-
witness mark at that depth-
so I shaved a few more MM off the pilot bushing, and we are good. Long run I want to remachine the adapter so I can put a stock GM bearing in there, next time I open clutch probably, but i need the van right now, so this solution is ok for the moment.
Clutch reinstalled-
617 and gearbox assembled-
Next the new drivetrain reinstalled on the subframe-
In what im going to call an amazing stroke of fortune, I was able to take the 616 driver side engine mount I made, and use it with minimal modification on the 617 passenger side, and the reverse by drilling a few holes and a few minutes with the grinder.
However, that won't do long run and I will need to remake the mounts, but the spacing looks pretty decent so far. On those two mounts, the heavier motor is a lot closer to the drag link, not going to work.
Probably going to fabricate some new mounts to hold the engine in approximately this position-
First thing in the morning making new mounts, id like to get the subframe back up and see what im dealing with as far as brake booster clearance
(12-05-2013, 04:50 PM)Simpler=Better While the 617 is out replace the IP gasket, IP rear cover gasket, rear cover screws, modify that 3rd IP bolt to be easier to access, and replace the oil filter gasket. Then you're good to go for pump tweaking. Much easier to scrape off gaskets now that when it's in the dog house.
Ill return to that for sure, however i need to get this done fairly quick at the moment so some of the resealing will definitely have to take place in vehicle. Want to see the access, but it should be fairly good hopefully
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-05-2013, 05:21 PM #244Is the engine sticking farther forward or backwards?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(12-05-2013, 05:21 PM)willbhere4u Is the engine sticking farther forward or backwards?
Farther forwards, the gearbox is in the same place. There should be room, but there will be interference issues with some of the brake booster valving area
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(12-05-2013, 05:21 PM)willbhere4u Is the engine sticking farther forward or backwards?
Farther forwards, the gearbox is in the same place. There should be room, but there will be interference issues with some of the brake booster valving area
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Here is the eventual shape I wanted to go with, the two ears would make the tabs of the mount accessible, and the open pipe would make the inside socket accessible as well from underneath on the inside face
passenger side-
![[Image: 0013_zps7c68078b.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0013_zps7c68078b.jpg.html)
driver side, shows more of the idea on usability (this one is also removable, I welded it to the spacer on the subframe)-
![[Image: 0012_zpsffb0bf9e.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0012_zpsffb0bf9e.jpg.html)
Passenger side welded in and finished- (I was worried about this, as its going to make it difficult to remove the upper control arm if I need to for any reason. I almost bailed on the stock arm, but then remembered that the control arm bolts are splined and can be driven out, so it would still be removable, just more of a PITA)
![[Image: 0024_zps7f7ea297.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0024_zps7f7ea297.jpg.html)
![[Image: 0034_zpse1207cd4.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0034_zpse1207cd4.jpg.html)
driver side-
![[Image: 002_zps14a5eeec.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/002_zps14a5eeec.jpg.html)
![[Image: 005_zpsab1679ac.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/005_zpsab1679ac.jpg.html)
This is the back side accessibility for the inner socket head screw, you can get a ratchet in there and do about 3 clicks at a time
![[Image: 003_zpsdbadc079.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/003_zpsdbadc079.jpg.html)
![[Image: 0042_zpse1193618.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0042_zpse1193618.jpg.html)
Ready to be bolted back to the body
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
So worked out some new motor mounts-
Here is the eventual shape I wanted to go with, the two ears would make the tabs of the mount accessible, and the open pipe would make the inside socket accessible as well from underneath on the inside face
passenger side-
driver side, shows more of the idea on usability (this one is also removable, I welded it to the spacer on the subframe)-
Passenger side welded in and finished- (I was worried about this, as its going to make it difficult to remove the upper control arm if I need to for any reason. I almost bailed on the stock arm, but then remembered that the control arm bolts are splined and can be driven out, so it would still be removable, just more of a PITA)
driver side-
This is the back side accessibility for the inner socket head screw, you can get a ratchet in there and do about 3 clicks at a time
Ready to be bolted back to the body
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
![[Image: 0012_zps91f55d6b.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0012_zps91f55d6b.jpg.html)
![[Image: 0042_zps3c285203.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0042_zps3c285203.jpg.html)
(only two things having to be torched! personal record. The other thing I torched was the upper bolt for the passenger stock GM motor mount, I didn't want to screw around with that extension struggle, not with the motor sitting on wooden blocks and the possibility of it falling while I tried to remove that bolt)
After that, the body and subframe were ready to reassemble-
![[Image: 007_zpsb2809d09.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/007_zpsb2809d09.jpg.html)
and the 617 fits very nicely indeed!
![[Image: 012_zps3d40ce41.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/012_zps3d40ce41.jpg.html)
![[Image: 013_zps975597b8.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/013_zps975597b8.jpg.html)
![[Image: 011_zps34fcc363.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/011_zps34fcc363.jpg.html)
issue with the power steering and the brake proportioning valve. However, some playing with the bracket and lines should make enough room, its really a problem with the fittings more than anything
![[Image: 015_zps0203a78e.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/015_zps0203a78e.jpg.html)
![[Image: 016_zpsf1f84a95.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/016_zpsf1f84a95.jpg.html)
Here is the passenger side motor mount access, its actually not as bad as I assumed
![[Image: 009_zpsbcbcbdb3.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/009_zpsbcbcbdb3.jpg.html)
I will have to remake the entire downpipe situation with a much much bigger flex pipe. My exhaust setup was a dismal failure with the 616, it was too tight and broke all but one exhaust mount, including the heavy bracket I made on the transmission bellhousing. Fortunately I caught it before the turbo housing was damaged.
there is decent room though, room enough I think for a stock downpipe hopefully
![[Image: 014_zpsfb03ca5f.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/014_zpsfb03ca5f.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
so I took care of some things like the wastegate snap ring and torching off this rusted out bolt holding a cut support and replacing it I took care of before dropping the body-
(only two things having to be torched! personal record. The other thing I torched was the upper bolt for the passenger stock GM motor mount, I didn't want to screw around with that extension struggle, not with the motor sitting on wooden blocks and the possibility of it falling while I tried to remove that bolt)
After that, the body and subframe were ready to reassemble-
and the 617 fits very nicely indeed!
issue with the power steering and the brake proportioning valve. However, some playing with the bracket and lines should make enough room, its really a problem with the fittings more than anything
Here is the passenger side motor mount access, its actually not as bad as I assumed
I will have to remake the entire downpipe situation with a much much bigger flex pipe. My exhaust setup was a dismal failure with the 616, it was too tight and broke all but one exhaust mount, including the heavy bracket I made on the transmission bellhousing. Fortunately I caught it before the turbo housing was damaged.
there is decent room though, room enough I think for a stock downpipe hopefully
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Here is the GM stock proportioning valve-
![[Image: 003_zps7458a3b8.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/003_zps7458a3b8.jpg.html)
![[Image: 0042_zps875ee85c.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0042_zps875ee85c.jpg.html)
![[Image: 005_zpsb4ded73c.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/005_zpsb4ded73c.jpg.html)
Here is the stock bracket removed with the valves-
![[Image: 006_zps4bac906d.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/006_zps4bac906d.jpg.html)
I moved the valves to the driver side portion of the stock bracket, and welded a brace to keep it stiff (the brace is bent to compensate for the master cylinder)-
![[Image: 008_zps46181fdb.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/008_zps46181fdb.jpg.html)
Here is the new arrangement after replumbing everything in the new position-
![[Image: 009_zps6564988b.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/009_zps6564988b.jpg.html)
This created considerable breathing space for the power steering pump fortunately-
![[Image: 012_zpsde03f122.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/012_zpsde03f122.jpg.html)
I think there is actually a possibility that I can use the MB fan and fan clutch with the GM radiator if I remake the mounts so the radiator does not need the shroud to be secure, not sure yet though, but it does look promising
![[Image: 014_zpsd648ba6a.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/014_zpsd648ba6a.jpg.html)
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Power steering issue worked out-
Here is the GM stock proportioning valve-
Here is the stock bracket removed with the valves-
I moved the valves to the driver side portion of the stock bracket, and welded a brace to keep it stiff (the brace is bent to compensate for the master cylinder)-
Here is the new arrangement after replumbing everything in the new position-
This created considerable breathing space for the power steering pump fortunately-
I think there is actually a possibility that I can use the MB fan and fan clutch with the GM radiator if I remake the mounts so the radiator does not need the shroud to be secure, not sure yet though, but it does look promising
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
I screwed around with different ideas, but decided Just to weld JIC fittings to cut down stock oil line stubs. My only concern is potential vibration, but the stubs are short enough and the pushlock line has enough play that I think I should be fine.
I ended up drilling out the O-ring side of the JIC fitting, and pressing the steel tube into the fitting a bit before welding.
![[Image: 0024_zps975bc444.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0024_zps975bc444.jpg.html)
![[Image: 0012_zpse5e84b03.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0012_zpse5e84b03.jpg.html)
![[Image: 0043_zps56b877f9.jpg]](http://s1217.photobucket.com/user/tinworm2/media/astro%20diesel%20conversion/0043_zps56b877f9.jpg.html)
I have a new exhaust down pipe on order that should be here later this week.
Things left to do before a test drive are-
Hook up fuel
Hook up throttle
Hook up oil pressure gauge
Hook up cooling
resolve glow plug wiring
hook up alternator
make new exhaust
Hopefully I should have all this done by the time the downpipe arrives later this week
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
so wasn't able to do much today (actually had to work, unacceptable) but did get the oiling hooked up.
I screwed around with different ideas, but decided Just to weld JIC fittings to cut down stock oil line stubs. My only concern is potential vibration, but the stubs are short enough and the pushlock line has enough play that I think I should be fine.
I ended up drilling out the O-ring side of the JIC fitting, and pressing the steel tube into the fitting a bit before welding.
I have a new exhaust down pipe on order that should be here later this week.
Things left to do before a test drive are-
Hook up fuel
Hook up throttle
Hook up oil pressure gauge
Hook up cooling
resolve glow plug wiring
hook up alternator
make new exhaust
Hopefully I should have all this done by the time the downpipe arrives later this week
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Watch how the owner shuts down his nissan-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scSj48Sd8Qk
all hes done is run a direct line from the vacuum pump to the shutoff valve, T-ed into it, and run a vacuum line to the dash which he glued into place. When he holds his finger over the hole, he closes the vacuum circuit, and the engine shuts off.
Its spectacularly simple and effective.
My question, what if any problems could present themselves from having an open line like this in the vacuum system?
Ive already driven around a bunch before with one of the nipples on the check valve open, and it does nothing to brake performance, but is the mechanical pump working any harder, or is it impossible to tell?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
so ive decided this is how im going to do my new shutoff arrangement. Its brutally simple and elegant.
Watch how the owner shuts down his nissan-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scSj48Sd8Qk
all hes done is run a direct line from the vacuum pump to the shutoff valve, T-ed into it, and run a vacuum line to the dash which he glued into place. When he holds his finger over the hole, he closes the vacuum circuit, and the engine shuts off.
Its spectacularly simple and effective.
My question, what if any problems could present themselves from having an open line like this in the vacuum system?
Ive already driven around a bunch before with one of the nipples on the check valve open, and it does nothing to brake performance, but is the mechanical pump working any harder, or is it impossible to tell?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
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