STD Other Projects OM617 4Runner

OM617 4Runner

OM617 4Runner

 
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kracken
Naturally-aspirated

7
11-12-2010, 02:45 PM #1
I will start by saying that I'm not the first person to do this and that the inspiration came from this build. http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8362
The truck is a 1992 Toyota 4Runner, that I have spent some time building into a weekend wheeler. I swapped the older solid axle suspension in up front, put lower gears in the axles, larger tires, and re-enforced the frame where i had to remove some bracing.

The engine that I put into the truck is a om617.951 out of an 83sd. The project is a work in progress, and will un-doubtably never really be done.

The old 22RE it still ran great, but was lacking in both power and efficiency.
[Image: IMG_1283.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1282.jpg]
Engine and tranny out
[Image: IMG_1284.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1285.jpg]
Mercedes test fit
[Image: IMG_1288.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1289.jpg]
One of the major issues that I ran into was that the high steer on my front axle just so happened to be in the way of the back of the oil pan. One way of dealing with this problem would have been to add a body lift to the truck, but I wanted to keep my center of gravity as low as possible. [Image: IMG_1290.jpg]
My friend and roommate is training to become a machinist so he made up an adapter to hold the pilot bearing and center the Toyota flywheel.
[Image: mercedestoyota.jpg]
lathing adapter
[Image: 0127001205.jpg]
drilling pilot holes
[Image: 0127001430.jpg]
drilling holes
[Image: 0127001433.jpg]
Re drilled flywheel 6 new holes then 6 that were on the edge of the toyota pattern
[Image: 0127001416.jpg]
installed
[Image: 0127001554.jpg][/quote]


So on to the adapter

I know that it looks rather archaic, but it has been working splendidly for the past 8 months.
[Image: IMG_1296.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1299.jpg]

Engine bolted up to the G58 Toyota trans.
[Image: IMG_1301.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1302.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1304.jpg]

The starter bolts right on to the toyota bell-housing.
[Image: IMG_1303.jpg]

With a little bit of filing on the stock Mercedes mount I was able to use the stock Toyota alternator.
[Image: IMG_1305.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1307.jpg]
It doesn't look like it in the pic, but the alternator does line up with the crankshaft pulley.
This post was last modified: 11-12-2010, 02:55 PM by kracken.
kracken
11-12-2010, 02:45 PM #1

I will start by saying that I'm not the first person to do this and that the inspiration came from this build. http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8362
The truck is a 1992 Toyota 4Runner, that I have spent some time building into a weekend wheeler. I swapped the older solid axle suspension in up front, put lower gears in the axles, larger tires, and re-enforced the frame where i had to remove some bracing.

The engine that I put into the truck is a om617.951 out of an 83sd. The project is a work in progress, and will un-doubtably never really be done.

The old 22RE it still ran great, but was lacking in both power and efficiency.
[Image: IMG_1283.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1282.jpg]
Engine and tranny out
[Image: IMG_1284.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1285.jpg]
Mercedes test fit
[Image: IMG_1288.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1289.jpg]
One of the major issues that I ran into was that the high steer on my front axle just so happened to be in the way of the back of the oil pan. One way of dealing with this problem would have been to add a body lift to the truck, but I wanted to keep my center of gravity as low as possible. [Image: IMG_1290.jpg]
My friend and roommate is training to become a machinist so he made up an adapter to hold the pilot bearing and center the Toyota flywheel.
[Image: mercedestoyota.jpg]
lathing adapter
[Image: 0127001205.jpg]
drilling pilot holes
[Image: 0127001430.jpg]
drilling holes
[Image: 0127001433.jpg]
Re drilled flywheel 6 new holes then 6 that were on the edge of the toyota pattern
[Image: 0127001416.jpg]
installed
[Image: 0127001554.jpg][/quote]




So on to the adapter

I know that it looks rather archaic, but it has been working splendidly for the past 8 months.
[Image: IMG_1296.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1299.jpg]

Engine bolted up to the G58 Toyota trans.
[Image: IMG_1301.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1302.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1304.jpg]

The starter bolts right on to the toyota bell-housing.
[Image: IMG_1303.jpg]

With a little bit of filing on the stock Mercedes mount I was able to use the stock Toyota alternator.
[Image: IMG_1305.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1307.jpg]
It doesn't look like it in the pic, but the alternator does line up with the crankshaft pulley.

Biohazard
Smokin like a champ!

376
11-12-2010, 03:01 PM #2
Nice!! Thanks for the pics! Keep up the good work, keep us updated on your progress as well. Smile

82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.

84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine! 
Biohazard
11-12-2010, 03:01 PM #2

Nice!! Thanks for the pics! Keep up the good work, keep us updated on your progress as well. Smile


82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.

84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine! 

kracken
Naturally-aspirated

7
11-12-2010, 03:01 PM #3
Evan fabbed up some engine mounts from one of the stock rear link arms. They are a bit stiff, but they have held up nicely.
[Image: IMG_1308.jpg]
Frame ground down for the new mounts.
[Image: IMG_1310.jpg]
New mount tacked in place
[Image: IMG_1318.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1320.jpg]

Evan also modified the oil pump pickup and oil pan to clear the High-Steer arms today.
The clearance Issue.
[Image: IMG_1316.jpg]
Modified Pan
[Image: IMG_1326.jpg]
Modified Pickup
[Image: IMG_1325.jpg]

The engine harness and some of the modifications that I had to do to it.

Alternator Wiring
[Image: IMG_1323.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1322.jpg]
Whole Engine And Transmission Harness
[Image: IMG_1321.jpg]

I ended up removing about 85 to 90 percent of the wire in the engine compartment. I only kept the oil pressure sender, water temp, alternator, and starter wiring. I did have to add in some wiring for the electric fan.
[Image: IMG_1324.jpg]
This engine is much longer that the stock 22RE, the crankshaft pulley sits where the stock radiator sits. So clearances are very tight. I almost have to pull the fan shroud in order to change either of the belts.

Upper rad support
[Image: IMG_1361.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1362.jpg]
Mercedes power steering pump
[Image: IMG_1363.jpg]

The only bodywork that had to be done to make the engine fit.
[Image: IMG_1370.jpg]
It's tight, but it does close all the way
[Image: IMG_1371.jpg]

Oil pan
[Image: IMG_1368.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1369.jpg]


Pyro Gauge
[Image: IMG_0716.jpg]

Oil Cooler
[Image: IMG_0718.jpg]

I had to clearance the back side of the grill so that it wouldn't hit the radiator.
[Image: IMG_0719.jpg]

Power Steering/ Vacuum Assembly
The Toyota power steering lines bolted directly up to the Mercedes pump, and it seems to steer better with the Mercedes pump far better than it ever did with the stock Toyota pump.
[Image: IMG_0720.jpg]

Fan Shroud
[Image: IMG_0721.jpg]

Turbo, Exhaust, Exhaust Temp Gauge
[Image: IMG_0724.jpg]
I ended up destroying that turbo, turns out that there was some debris in the oil line before it.

Fan and Rats-nest of coolant lines
[Image: IMG_0725.jpg]

Throttle
[Image: IMG_0726.jpg]

3" stainless dairy processing pipe with perfect bends that I picked up at the local scrap yard for under $50.
[Image: IMG_0727.jpg]
Solid Exhaust Coupler
[Image: IMG_0728.jpg]
This post was last modified: 11-12-2010, 03:15 PM by kracken.
kracken
11-12-2010, 03:01 PM #3

Evan fabbed up some engine mounts from one of the stock rear link arms. They are a bit stiff, but they have held up nicely.
[Image: IMG_1308.jpg]
Frame ground down for the new mounts.
[Image: IMG_1310.jpg]
New mount tacked in place
[Image: IMG_1318.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1320.jpg]

Evan also modified the oil pump pickup and oil pan to clear the High-Steer arms today.
The clearance Issue.
[Image: IMG_1316.jpg]
Modified Pan
[Image: IMG_1326.jpg]
Modified Pickup
[Image: IMG_1325.jpg]

The engine harness and some of the modifications that I had to do to it.

Alternator Wiring
[Image: IMG_1323.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1322.jpg]
Whole Engine And Transmission Harness
[Image: IMG_1321.jpg]

I ended up removing about 85 to 90 percent of the wire in the engine compartment. I only kept the oil pressure sender, water temp, alternator, and starter wiring. I did have to add in some wiring for the electric fan.
[Image: IMG_1324.jpg]


This engine is much longer that the stock 22RE, the crankshaft pulley sits where the stock radiator sits. So clearances are very tight. I almost have to pull the fan shroud in order to change either of the belts.

Upper rad support
[Image: IMG_1361.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1362.jpg]
Mercedes power steering pump
[Image: IMG_1363.jpg]

The only bodywork that had to be done to make the engine fit.
[Image: IMG_1370.jpg]
It's tight, but it does close all the way
[Image: IMG_1371.jpg]

Oil pan
[Image: IMG_1368.jpg]
[Image: IMG_1369.jpg]


Pyro Gauge
[Image: IMG_0716.jpg]

Oil Cooler
[Image: IMG_0718.jpg]

I had to clearance the back side of the grill so that it wouldn't hit the radiator.
[Image: IMG_0719.jpg]

Power Steering/ Vacuum Assembly
The Toyota power steering lines bolted directly up to the Mercedes pump, and it seems to steer better with the Mercedes pump far better than it ever did with the stock Toyota pump.
[Image: IMG_0720.jpg]

Fan Shroud
[Image: IMG_0721.jpg]

Turbo, Exhaust, Exhaust Temp Gauge
[Image: IMG_0724.jpg]
I ended up destroying that turbo, turns out that there was some debris in the oil line before it.

Fan and Rats-nest of coolant lines
[Image: IMG_0725.jpg]

Throttle
[Image: IMG_0726.jpg]

3" stainless dairy processing pipe with perfect bends that I picked up at the local scrap yard for under $50.
[Image: IMG_0727.jpg]
Solid Exhaust Coupler
[Image: IMG_0728.jpg]

DeliveryValve
Superturbo

1,338
11-12-2010, 03:33 PM #4
Good job on the conversion. Looks like it will be a fun truck to drive.

What are specs on the Toyota Alternator? i.e. amps.

Could you post more pics of the setup and wiring connections?
This looks like a good alternative to the standard benz alternator if the amps sufficient.



.

Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.
DeliveryValve
11-12-2010, 03:33 PM #4

Good job on the conversion. Looks like it will be a fun truck to drive.

What are specs on the Toyota Alternator? i.e. amps.

Could you post more pics of the setup and wiring connections?
This looks like a good alternative to the standard benz alternator if the amps sufficient.



.


Gota love Mercedes Diesels!



.

kracken
Naturally-aspirated

7
11-12-2010, 03:34 PM #5
By this point I had been driving the truck for a little over a month.

This has to of been the worst Birthday present that I have ever gotten.
I managed to destroy 1st gear, just driving around town.
Ahh now that might be the problem right there.
[Image: IMG_0787.jpg]
First gear is toast.
[Image: IMG_0788.jpg]
[Image: IMG_0789.jpg]

The input shaft bearing is fine, there is virtually no slop in it. Or at the very least it isn't any worse than when I put the transmission in in the first place. So as far as I can tell the transmission just couldn't handle the power, the 200,000 miles probably didn't help either.

I had been wanting to upgrade to one of the stronger Toyota transmissions, but hadn't really needed to, until this happened. The G58 is one of the weakest transmissions that they put in these trucks. So after searching around on craigslist for a week or so I picked up a W56 with the better transfer-case, gear drive instead of chain, which has the same bolt pattern and length for $275.

I have been driving with this engine since the beginning of April and have been very pleased with it. I still need to build a real air box, and hopefully add some sort of intercooler to try and squeeze out a little more power.

Close to how she looks now, I can't seem to be able to find my camera.
[Image: IMG_0741.jpg]
[Image: IMG_0744.jpg]
[Image: IMG_0743.jpg]
[Image: IMG_0742.jpg]


(11-12-2010, 03:33 PM)DeliveryValve Good job on the conversion. Looks like it will be a fun truck to drive.

What are specs on the Toyota Alternator? i.e. amps.

Could you post more pics of the setup and wiring connections?
This looks like a good alternative to the standard benz alternator if the amps sufficient.

Almost all of the wiring connections that were made are soldered together, and were done because I had to move wire from one side of the engine bay to the other.

The highest amp alt that Toyota made for those years with 4 cylinder engines is only 70amps. There are companies that make higher output alternators, but they are rather expensive. I know that some guys will put a GM 1 wire alternator in their trucks, but I haven't tried it yet.
Here are some pics of the wiring.

I ended up using one of the vacuum solenoids that was on the 22RE for the engine kill. I didn't have a whole donar car so I ended up using a Ford starter relay as my glow plug relay.
[Image: IMG_1013.jpg]

Oil pressure sender drilled and tapped into the turbo feed line banjo bolt.
[Image: IMG_1012.jpg]

My rats nest of battery wiring. This will be getting changed when I build an air box. I'm probably going to have to modify the stock fuse / relay holder when I build a proper filter housing.
[Image: IMG_1007.jpg]
Stock loom with a 2awg battery lead for the dual batteries.
[Image: IMG_1008.jpg]

Oh on a side note the radiator is out of an 89 Toyota van wagon. The lower hose has been moved over to the passenger side and a baffle has been added to that side as well to keep fluid flowing properly. So far it has been cooling the engine without any problems.
This post was last modified: 11-12-2010, 04:29 PM by kracken.
kracken
11-12-2010, 03:34 PM #5

By this point I had been driving the truck for a little over a month.

This has to of been the worst Birthday present that I have ever gotten.
I managed to destroy 1st gear, just driving around town.
Ahh now that might be the problem right there.
[Image: IMG_0787.jpg]
First gear is toast.
[Image: IMG_0788.jpg]
[Image: IMG_0789.jpg]

The input shaft bearing is fine, there is virtually no slop in it. Or at the very least it isn't any worse than when I put the transmission in in the first place. So as far as I can tell the transmission just couldn't handle the power, the 200,000 miles probably didn't help either.

I had been wanting to upgrade to one of the stronger Toyota transmissions, but hadn't really needed to, until this happened. The G58 is one of the weakest transmissions that they put in these trucks. So after searching around on craigslist for a week or so I picked up a W56 with the better transfer-case, gear drive instead of chain, which has the same bolt pattern and length for $275.

I have been driving with this engine since the beginning of April and have been very pleased with it. I still need to build a real air box, and hopefully add some sort of intercooler to try and squeeze out a little more power.

Close to how she looks now, I can't seem to be able to find my camera.
[Image: IMG_0741.jpg]
[Image: IMG_0744.jpg]
[Image: IMG_0743.jpg]
[Image: IMG_0742.jpg]


(11-12-2010, 03:33 PM)DeliveryValve Good job on the conversion. Looks like it will be a fun truck to drive.

What are specs on the Toyota Alternator? i.e. amps.

Could you post more pics of the setup and wiring connections?
This looks like a good alternative to the standard benz alternator if the amps sufficient.

Almost all of the wiring connections that were made are soldered together, and were done because I had to move wire from one side of the engine bay to the other.

The highest amp alt that Toyota made for those years with 4 cylinder engines is only 70amps. There are companies that make higher output alternators, but they are rather expensive. I know that some guys will put a GM 1 wire alternator in their trucks, but I haven't tried it yet.
Here are some pics of the wiring.

I ended up using one of the vacuum solenoids that was on the 22RE for the engine kill. I didn't have a whole donar car so I ended up using a Ford starter relay as my glow plug relay.
[Image: IMG_1013.jpg]

Oil pressure sender drilled and tapped into the turbo feed line banjo bolt.
[Image: IMG_1012.jpg]

My rats nest of battery wiring. This will be getting changed when I build an air box. I'm probably going to have to modify the stock fuse / relay holder when I build a proper filter housing.
[Image: IMG_1007.jpg]
Stock loom with a 2awg battery lead for the dual batteries.
[Image: IMG_1008.jpg]

Oh on a side note the radiator is out of an 89 Toyota van wagon. The lower hose has been moved over to the passenger side and a baffle has been added to that side as well to keep fluid flowing properly. So far it has been cooling the engine without any problems.

300D50
Graphite Moderator, ala RBMK

775
11-12-2010, 07:26 PM #6
EPIC! I love how that turned out!

I too know how well a plate steel adapter plate can function, had one on my first truck. Smile

There's a bosch alt from a Saab turbo that's a bolt-in on the benz, forgot the model. Somethin like 100+A

Liking the flywheel adapter, very ingenious way to center everything. How much spline engagement do you have between the clutch and input shaft?

How's the Toy starter holding up?

What's acceleration like, still able to make the on-ramps and merge ok?

What's the diffy ratios? You said you changed em but I didn't see what to.

Amazing so far! Smile



1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72

I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
300D50
11-12-2010, 07:26 PM #6

EPIC! I love how that turned out!

I too know how well a plate steel adapter plate can function, had one on my first truck. Smile

There's a bosch alt from a Saab turbo that's a bolt-in on the benz, forgot the model. Somethin like 100+A

Liking the flywheel adapter, very ingenious way to center everything. How much spline engagement do you have between the clutch and input shaft?

How's the Toy starter holding up?

What's acceleration like, still able to make the on-ramps and merge ok?

What's the diffy ratios? You said you changed em but I didn't see what to.

Amazing so far! Smile



1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72

I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.

ben2go
Diesel Dumby

129
11-12-2010, 07:59 PM #7
Purdy good install.Any mpg numbers?


I am rather fond of the Toyota 22R and RE line of engines.I had one with a 5 speed in my 80 CGT.I think it came out of a late 80's Celica.

1990 Mercury Blue Max Cougar 3.8L with Automatic
Future OM617 Super Turbo Diesel Conversion with T56 6 Speed Manual
ben2go
11-12-2010, 07:59 PM #7

Purdy good install.Any mpg numbers?


I am rather fond of the Toyota 22R and RE line of engines.I had one with a 5 speed in my 80 CGT.I think it came out of a late 80's Celica.


1990 Mercury Blue Max Cougar 3.8L with Automatic
Future OM617 Super Turbo Diesel Conversion with T56 6 Speed Manual

kracken
Naturally-aspirated

7
11-12-2010, 11:57 PM #8
(11-12-2010, 07:26 PM)300D50 Liking the flywheel adapter, very ingenious way to center everything. How much spline engagement do you have between the clutch and input shaft?

How's the Toy starter holding up?

What's acceleration like, still able to make the on-ramps and merge ok?

What's the diffy ratios? You said you changed em but I didn't see what to.

100% engagement, the crank sticks further out of the block on the Mercedes than it does on the 22RE.

The acceleration is fine, but I do wish that it had a little bit more top end power. Maybe I will get around to removing the full load limiter one of these days, I do have two extra pumps sitting around just in case I mess something up.

Stock gears were 4.10's with 29" tires, I'm now running 4.56 gears with 33" tires.
(11-12-2010, 07:59 PM)ben2go Purdy good install.Any mpg numbers?

For a while I was getting 20mpg, then 18mpg, but now I seem to be getting 20mpg again. I'm not really sure why, possibly because I live about a mile from work.
This post was last modified: 11-12-2010, 11:59 PM by kracken.
kracken
11-12-2010, 11:57 PM #8

(11-12-2010, 07:26 PM)300D50 Liking the flywheel adapter, very ingenious way to center everything. How much spline engagement do you have between the clutch and input shaft?

How's the Toy starter holding up?

What's acceleration like, still able to make the on-ramps and merge ok?

What's the diffy ratios? You said you changed em but I didn't see what to.

100% engagement, the crank sticks further out of the block on the Mercedes than it does on the 22RE.

The acceleration is fine, but I do wish that it had a little bit more top end power. Maybe I will get around to removing the full load limiter one of these days, I do have two extra pumps sitting around just in case I mess something up.

Stock gears were 4.10's with 29" tires, I'm now running 4.56 gears with 33" tires.
(11-12-2010, 07:59 PM)ben2go Purdy good install.Any mpg numbers?

For a while I was getting 20mpg, then 18mpg, but now I seem to be getting 20mpg again. I'm not really sure why, possibly because I live about a mile from work.

300D50
Graphite Moderator, ala RBMK

775
11-13-2010, 12:14 AM #9
That's good to hear it was easy, I had to jump through hoops in order to get full engagement on my current truck, only had ~ 3/4 when it was mated to the Mitsu KM145 in the other one.

You taunt so well... I've got one pump and it's on my engine.

Not bad, your total change in inches travled per driveshaft revolution is only up 2% or so from stock by my math. I can't remember how that pertains to how much torque hits the road though, the grey matter is sliightly pickled right now...

1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72

I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.
300D50
11-13-2010, 12:14 AM #9

That's good to hear it was easy, I had to jump through hoops in order to get full engagement on my current truck, only had ~ 3/4 when it was mated to the Mitsu KM145 in the other one.

You taunt so well... I've got one pump and it's on my engine.

Not bad, your total change in inches travled per driveshaft revolution is only up 2% or so from stock by my math. I can't remember how that pertains to how much torque hits the road though, the grey matter is sliightly pickled right now...


1990 Power Ram 50 V6 SOHC 24V 6g72

I can be wrong, don't take everything I say as verbatim, please fact-check first.
My posts are my personal opinions and thoughts, unless otherwise noted.

4rnnr33
TA 0301

69
01-24-2011, 03:30 AM #10
Very nice swap. I am curious what size plate you used for the adapter and if you got rid of your ecu completely or is it needed to run the stock gauges? Thanks
4rnnr33
01-24-2011, 03:30 AM #10

Very nice swap. I am curious what size plate you used for the adapter and if you got rid of your ecu completely or is it needed to run the stock gauges? Thanks

ForcedInduction
Banned

3,628
01-24-2011, 08:43 AM #11
Nice swap. Why not use the stock alternator? All you need are 12V out and a field connection.

Don't use that post-turbo pyrometer for tuning the engine or determining safe maximum temperature.
ForcedInduction
01-24-2011, 08:43 AM #11

Nice swap. Why not use the stock alternator? All you need are 12V out and a field connection.

Don't use that post-turbo pyrometer for tuning the engine or determining safe maximum temperature.

greenbuggy
Naturally-aspirated

2
01-30-2011, 08:24 PM #12
what bearing did you use for the transmissino pilot?

Whats your top speed? what RPM are you turning at 55 mph? 65?
greenbuggy
01-30-2011, 08:24 PM #12

what bearing did you use for the transmissino pilot?

Whats your top speed? what RPM are you turning at 55 mph? 65?

4rnnr33
TA 0301

69
01-31-2011, 04:57 PM #13
I just picked up an om617 to swap in my toyota and will be using a lot of info from this thread your swap looks great. Since im here i might as well ask does anyone know what this tube is for? The one circled in green in the pic. Is it supposed to have some kind of cap on it or ?
[Image: om6666.jpg]
4rnnr33
01-31-2011, 04:57 PM #13

I just picked up an om617 to swap in my toyota and will be using a lot of info from this thread your swap looks great. Since im here i might as well ask does anyone know what this tube is for? The one circled in green in the pic. Is it supposed to have some kind of cap on it or ?
[Image: om6666.jpg]

larsalan
Superturbo

1,272
01-31-2011, 05:30 PM #14
The stock air/oil separator that's built into the air box drains oil into that.

Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
larsalan
01-31-2011, 05:30 PM #14

The stock air/oil separator that's built into the air box drains oil into that.


Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'

ForcedInduction
Banned

3,628
02-01-2011, 12:28 PM #15
It has one bolt holding it to a bracket, then it just lifts off of the nipple and you can plug it at the oil pan.
ForcedInduction
02-01-2011, 12:28 PM #15

It has one bolt holding it to a bracket, then it just lifts off of the nipple and you can plug it at the oil pan.

4rnnr33
TA 0301

69
02-02-2011, 05:06 PM #16
(02-01-2011, 12:28 PM)ForcedInduction It has one bolt holding it to a bracket, then it just lifts off of the nipple and you can plug it at the oil pan.

cool thanks

4rnnr33
02-02-2011, 05:06 PM #16

(02-01-2011, 12:28 PM)ForcedInduction It has one bolt holding it to a bracket, then it just lifts off of the nipple and you can plug it at the oil pan.

cool thanks

4rnnr33
TA 0301

69
02-23-2011, 04:00 PM #17
If any of you guys on here have an om617 sitting around is there any way you can measure the ID of the hole in the crank where the flywheel bolts on? Or maybe someone has it written down somewhere?
4rnnr33
02-23-2011, 04:00 PM #17

If any of you guys on here have an om617 sitting around is there any way you can measure the ID of the hole in the crank where the flywheel bolts on? Or maybe someone has it written down somewhere?

winmutt
bitbanger

3,468
02-23-2011, 05:44 PM #18
The 85 is different than the others (smaller) but IIRC its 24mm. See if you can find the pilot bearing for the 616 (80 240d manual), it is the same size..

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
winmutt
02-23-2011, 05:44 PM #18

The 85 is different than the others (smaller) but IIRC its 24mm. See if you can find the pilot bearing for the 616 (80 240d manual), it is the same size..


1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42

dust
K26-2

28
03-01-2011, 09:25 AM #19
Your work looks good, just wondering if you had looked into the Toyota 1KZTE for the swap?
dust
03-01-2011, 09:25 AM #19

Your work looks good, just wondering if you had looked into the Toyota 1KZTE for the swap?

Hotrodbenz
Boost and roost baby let's do some coke

46
01-30-2012, 09:22 AM #20
I know this thread is kinda old but would your friend be willing to turn me an adapter for the pilot Bering
Hotrodbenz
01-30-2012, 09:22 AM #20

I know this thread is kinda old but would your friend be willing to turn me an adapter for the pilot Bering

pyrojoe22
Naturally-aspirated

16
04-12-2012, 05:24 PM #21
Do you remember how much you were able to scoot the engine/transmission back? I need about 2 1/2". I didn't know how much you gained by reversing the oil pickup, and how that's working since you cut and re-welded it.
pyrojoe22
04-12-2012, 05:24 PM #21

Do you remember how much you were able to scoot the engine/transmission back? I need about 2 1/2". I didn't know how much you gained by reversing the oil pickup, and how that's working since you cut and re-welded it.

 
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