Asphault Insulation Removal Heat v Cold
Asphault Insulation Removal Heat v Cold
Has anyone used this method or would you just go on with the heat gun & scrape?
regards
MD
Was planning on removing the asphault floor insulation this weekend to see if the cancer is isolated to the "weep" of the driver door from poor seals and was planning to use my heat gun. I've had luck with it before on paint & such and it really cranks the heat. Tar, however, can be a hot mess no pun intended. I saw a guy on the youtube using dry ice and simply beating it off. It looked easy; too easy.
Has anyone used this method or would you just go on with the heat gun & scrape?
regards
MD
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Mine chipped out pretty easy actually with no heat. I just used a putty knife and got under it. It may not be that bad to remove once its started, its really easy if you have rust under it as well, it comes off in sheets
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
It shouldnt be TOO much of a problem.
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
I havnt taken large sections off yet. Just small areas around rust, but mine seems like it would come out pretty darn easy without ice or a heat gun. However i would try the heatgun if i needed to do one or the other.
It shouldnt be TOO much of a problem.
1987 300D: EGR Delete, ARV Delete, Cold Air Intake...
You can see photos about half way down the page in the following link.
http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,42663
Graminal95
11-26-2010, 01:11 PM #4Cold is your friend when trying to remove tar paper or rubberized undercoating. For large jobs I would barrow a friends "death ray gun" for shooting liquid nitrogen, but for smaller jobs just get some dry ice blocks. Put the block on the tar paper for like 2 min, move and strike the tar paper with a hammer. It will all come flying off leaving a factory fresh floor (if the rust mites have not taken over) to work on.
You can see photos about half way down the page in the following link.
http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/read.php?5,42663
Cold worked pretty well on the front, left some of that foam/tar residue but nothing heat or solvent couldn't remove. Decided I didn't want to drive 20 miles again for more dry ice so decided to use Milwaukee's best heat gun on the back. The coating was different than the front, very much like latex, no foam. Came up very easy although I burned my hands a few times. I love my heat gun and would recommend this method to others.
Found rust under the cross brace, seat brackets and the exit for the wires under the rear seat. I'm a little surprised. I knew I had rust in the driver door but didn't expect it in some of the places. I'm going to punt on this coupe. Email if you are possibly interested, not in a hurry.
Changed title to Heat & Cold because I used both methods.
Cold worked pretty well on the front, left some of that foam/tar residue but nothing heat or solvent couldn't remove. Decided I didn't want to drive 20 miles again for more dry ice so decided to use Milwaukee's best heat gun on the back. The coating was different than the front, very much like latex, no foam. Came up very easy although I burned my hands a few times. I love my heat gun and would recommend this method to others.
Found rust under the cross brace, seat brackets and the exit for the wires under the rear seat. I'm a little surprised. I knew I had rust in the driver door but didn't expect it in some of the places. I'm going to punt on this coupe. Email if you are possibly interested, not in a hurry.
ForcedInduction
12-03-2010, 07:43 AM
#7
The insulation on my 300D just crumbled off with a putty knife.
(12-03-2010, 07:43 AM)ForcedInduction The insulation on my 300D just crumbled off with a putty knife.
The front floor would have done that but there would have been a good bit of tar residue. The rear floor would not have come up without heat, it was stuck on pretty good. I wasn't sure how much tar MB used. Earlier German cars used a good bit of tar. The 2nd photo shows where I had some success with a putty knife prior to the ice treatment but it still left too much of that deteriorated foam stuck to the tar on the floor. It was an interesting experiment but I'd have to recommend the heat gun for ease of use next time.
(12-03-2010, 07:43 AM)ForcedInduction The insulation on my 300D just crumbled off with a putty knife.
The front floor would have done that but there would have been a good bit of tar residue. The rear floor would not have come up without heat, it was stuck on pretty good. I wasn't sure how much tar MB used. Earlier German cars used a good bit of tar. The 2nd photo shows where I had some success with a putty knife prior to the ice treatment but it still left too much of that deteriorated foam stuck to the tar on the floor. It was an interesting experiment but I'd have to recommend the heat gun for ease of use next time.
I've just fully stripped the tar from my sedan's floor, I used a vibrating multi-tool, with a scraper blade installed, it just shaved it of like shearing a sheep. It only took me 35 minutes to do the entire floor!! And in just over an hour I had removed all the tar insulation from the pillars and roof too.
I've done the dry ice, and heat gun methods on other cars, and I've got to say, I'll never use them again, using the multi-tool was by far the easiest and cleanest way of doing this.
If you're wondering what tool I'm talking about, here is a picture of what sort of multi-tool I have:
![[Image: 84bc2bc1.jpg]](http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s21/fha772/84bc2bc1.jpg)
![[Image: d7235ae7.jpg]](http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s21/fha772/d7235ae7.jpg)
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=6743&start=105
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMf0sZubyfg&feature=plcp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPZy0pNgcZ0&feature=plcp
Just to add my experience to this...
I've just fully stripped the tar from my sedan's floor, I used a vibrating multi-tool, with a scraper blade installed, it just shaved it of like shearing a sheep. It only took me 35 minutes to do the entire floor!! And in just over an hour I had removed all the tar insulation from the pillars and roof too.
I've done the dry ice, and heat gun methods on other cars, and I've got to say, I'll never use them again, using the multi-tool was by far the easiest and cleanest way of doing this.
If you're wondering what tool I'm talking about, here is a picture of what sort of multi-tool I have:
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=6743&start=105
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMf0sZubyfg&feature=plcp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPZy0pNgcZ0&feature=plcp
![[Image: 132f845e.jpg]](http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s21/fha772/132f845e.jpg)
...and here's a link to a video I've done today, to show you how easy the multi tool strips the tar off, it actually is easier than it shows, seeing as I was only doing it 1 handed, with 2 hands it's really easy...
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s21/f...234b08.mp4
Sorry about the sound quality, but that's just the way I talk!!! LOL!!!
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=6743&start=105
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMf0sZubyfg&feature=plcp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPZy0pNgcZ0&feature=plcp
Here's a picture of my stripped interior;
...and here's a link to a video I've done today, to show you how easy the multi tool strips the tar off, it actually is easier than it shows, seeing as I was only doing it 1 handed, with 2 hands it's really easy...
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s21/f...234b08.mp4
Sorry about the sound quality, but that's just the way I talk!!! LOL!!!
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=6743&start=105
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMf0sZubyfg&feature=plcp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPZy0pNgcZ0&feature=plcp
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