New Turbo
New Turbo
11-29-2010, 06:23 PM
#1
So the question arises: Is a 50 or 55 trim turbo from a OM603 300SDL or a 350SDL a bolt-on job to an OM617?
Thanks.
'81 300SD- OM617.951, Turned-up Pump, Pushing 12PSI, 2.5" Turbo-Back Straight Pipe, Euro Head Lights, ALDA Removed, No EGR, Camo Dash + Seat Covers, DU Floor Mats, Cobra CB, LED Trunk lights, 12V outlets in the trunk, and other things...
Duckinator17
11-29-2010, 06:23 PM #1My turbo is no good. The impeller blades look like sh*t, like a small nut when throught it, and it burns a bit of oil I believe from the seals.
So the question arises: Is a 50 or 55 trim turbo from a OM603 300SDL or a 350SDL a bolt-on job to an OM617?
Thanks.
'81 300SD- OM617.951, Turned-up Pump, Pushing 12PSI, 2.5" Turbo-Back Straight Pipe, Euro Head Lights, ALDA Removed, No EGR, Camo Dash + Seat Covers, DU Floor Mats, Cobra CB, LED Trunk lights, 12V outlets in the trunk, and other things...
11-29-2010, 07:14 PM
#2
(11-29-2010, 06:23 PM)Duckinator17 My turbo is no good. The impeller blades look like sh*t, like a small nut when throught it, and it burns a bit of oil I believe from the seals.Its not quite a bolt on.
So the question arises: Is a 50 or 55 trim turbo from a OM603 300SDL or a 350SDL a bolt-on job to an OM617?
Thanks.
First and for most is the OM603 turbos have studs on the turbo flange instead of on the manifold like on the OM617. This requires you to twist the studs out. You then have to enlarge the holes to fit the studs from your manifold.
Second you have to reclock the compressor housing which means you have to come up with a linkage between the wastegate controller and the wastegate. Mine is a kludge that could be much better but works for the most part. If I had the time and the tools I would try to come up with something better.
Finally there is a slight offset difference. The offset difference requires additional length for the spacer that goes in between the manifold and the compressor housing. I found a piece of PVC conduit that fit over one end of the spacer and into the end of the compressor housing. I used lots of RTV to get close to an air tight seal. I also used hose clamps around the out side to strengthen the PVC. If I ever get my hands on a nice piece of aluminum and a lathe I will make a spacer of the correct size.
The oil feed port isn't exactly lined up but the oil line will flex enough to get it to fit.
It took me about a day and a half to get the turbo mounted and hooked up to the intake. It then took me a couple of weeks to come up with a way to link the boost controller to the wastegate. In the mean time I got by with rubber bands to keep the wastegate closed so I could at least get the same performance as a NA engine. Note the rubber bands don't last long due to heat.
The only real benefit from going from a 45 trim to a 50 trim on an OM617 is at the top end of the RPM range. Above 3500 RPM you get significantly better efficiency in the compressor map. You do take a slight hit at lower RPMS in compressor efficiency but its not very much. Everywhere else its about the same. An intercooler in conjunction with a 50 trim compressor wheel would help in bringing the airflow into more usable RPM ranges (which is my ultimate goal).
(11-29-2010, 06:23 PM)Duckinator17 My turbo is no good. The impeller blades look like sh*t, like a small nut when throught it, and it burns a bit of oil I believe from the seals.Its not quite a bolt on.
So the question arises: Is a 50 or 55 trim turbo from a OM603 300SDL or a 350SDL a bolt-on job to an OM617?
Thanks.
First and for most is the OM603 turbos have studs on the turbo flange instead of on the manifold like on the OM617. This requires you to twist the studs out. You then have to enlarge the holes to fit the studs from your manifold.
Second you have to reclock the compressor housing which means you have to come up with a linkage between the wastegate controller and the wastegate. Mine is a kludge that could be much better but works for the most part. If I had the time and the tools I would try to come up with something better.
Finally there is a slight offset difference. The offset difference requires additional length for the spacer that goes in between the manifold and the compressor housing. I found a piece of PVC conduit that fit over one end of the spacer and into the end of the compressor housing. I used lots of RTV to get close to an air tight seal. I also used hose clamps around the out side to strengthen the PVC. If I ever get my hands on a nice piece of aluminum and a lathe I will make a spacer of the correct size.
The oil feed port isn't exactly lined up but the oil line will flex enough to get it to fit.
It took me about a day and a half to get the turbo mounted and hooked up to the intake. It then took me a couple of weeks to come up with a way to link the boost controller to the wastegate. In the mean time I got by with rubber bands to keep the wastegate closed so I could at least get the same performance as a NA engine. Note the rubber bands don't last long due to heat.
The only real benefit from going from a 45 trim to a 50 trim on an OM617 is at the top end of the RPM range. Above 3500 RPM you get significantly better efficiency in the compressor map. You do take a slight hit at lower RPMS in compressor efficiency but its not very much. Everywhere else its about the same. An intercooler in conjunction with a 50 trim compressor wheel would help in bringing the airflow into more usable RPM ranges (which is my ultimate goal).
11-29-2010, 07:14 PM
#3
This post was last modified: 11-29-2010, 07:14 PM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
11-29-2010, 07:14 PM
#3
No. The compressor outlet will not line up with the intake, the air filter u-tube is too short and clocking the compressor housing would require a custom wastegate actuator bracket.
11-29-2010, 07:23 PM
#5
This post was last modified: 11-29-2010, 07:25 PM by Duckinator17.
'81 300SD- OM617.951, Turned-up Pump, Pushing 12PSI, 2.5" Turbo-Back Straight Pipe, Euro Head Lights, ALDA Removed, No EGR, Camo Dash + Seat Covers, DU Floor Mats, Cobra CB, LED Trunk lights, 12V outlets in the trunk, and other things...
Duckinator17
11-29-2010, 07:23 PM #5all right... simply put, it wont work nicely.. damn... Is there any T3 flange turbo that mounts up nicely, that would give a little better performance? (besides intake lining up) No worries on the U-tube, i run a Fram 8038 anyways...
'81 300SD- OM617.951, Turned-up Pump, Pushing 12PSI, 2.5" Turbo-Back Straight Pipe, Euro Head Lights, ALDA Removed, No EGR, Camo Dash + Seat Covers, DU Floor Mats, Cobra CB, LED Trunk lights, 12V outlets in the trunk, and other things...
11-29-2010, 07:32 PM
#7
(11-29-2010, 07:20 PM)ConnClark Actually the U-tube will probably work. The TBO turbo from the SDL and the TAO from the 300SD/300D have about the same length from turbine flange port to compressor housing intake.
If you use a tube from an 84cali/85fed model, the ARV adds length to the snout.
ForcedInduction
11-29-2010, 07:32 PM
#7
(11-29-2010, 07:20 PM)ConnClark Actually the U-tube will probably work. The TBO turbo from the SDL and the TAO from the 300SD/300D have about the same length from turbine flange port to compressor housing intake.
If you use a tube from an 84cali/85fed model, the ARV adds length to the snout.
11-29-2010, 08:52 PM
#9
ForcedInduction
11-29-2010, 08:52 PM
#9
You're right, its the air filter housing thats different. Thanks for reminding me.
11-30-2010, 04:51 PM
#10
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
11-30-2010, 04:51 PM #10Why not just put a larger compressor wheel in the stock T3? Yeah it cost about $400 but I'd say its worth it and it give piece of mind that it wont fail. Junk yard parts are sketch at best.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
11-30-2010, 05:35 PM
#11
(11-30-2010, 04:51 PM)Captain America Why not just put a larger compressor wheel in the stock T3? Yeah it cost about $400 but I'd say its worth it and it give piece of mind that it wont fail. Junk yard parts are sketch at best.
Actually I have done the FrankenTurbo too. You still need the junkyard SDL turbo to get the compressor housing off of it though. My old turbo's bearings had a lot of slop so I figured I would modify it because I didn't have much to loose. I pulled the old compressor wheel off my stock turbo and stuck a 50 trim compressor from another junk turbo I had with out bothering to have it balanced. It worked out quite well until the oil seal went in the turbine.
Although I have no numbers to back it up I went with the TBO turbo from the SDL to replace it because I figured they improved the turbine design over the 10 year older TAO design.
Having done both I can't say there is much difference between the FrankenTurbo and the SDL kludge route. It would be nice to compare the two systems side by side and measure back pressure vs boost.
EDIT: If you go the FrankenTurbo route have it professionally done and balanced
This post was last modified: 11-30-2010, 05:36 PM by ConnClark.
(11-30-2010, 04:51 PM)Captain America Why not just put a larger compressor wheel in the stock T3? Yeah it cost about $400 but I'd say its worth it and it give piece of mind that it wont fail. Junk yard parts are sketch at best.
Actually I have done the FrankenTurbo too. You still need the junkyard SDL turbo to get the compressor housing off of it though. My old turbo's bearings had a lot of slop so I figured I would modify it because I didn't have much to loose. I pulled the old compressor wheel off my stock turbo and stuck a 50 trim compressor from another junk turbo I had with out bothering to have it balanced. It worked out quite well until the oil seal went in the turbine.
Although I have no numbers to back it up I went with the TBO turbo from the SDL to replace it because I figured they improved the turbine design over the 10 year older TAO design.
Having done both I can't say there is much difference between the FrankenTurbo and the SDL kludge route. It would be nice to compare the two systems side by side and measure back pressure vs boost.
EDIT: If you go the FrankenTurbo route have it professionally done and balanced
12-01-2010, 05:01 PM
#12
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
12-01-2010, 05:01 PM #12Well I went half FrankenTurbo? I had a place called Performance Techniques get a new cartridge, turbine, and 60 trim compressor wheel for mine. Then they machined my stock compressor housing to accept the 60 trim comp wheel.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
12-03-2010, 09:15 AM
#13
'81 300SD- OM617.951, Turned-up Pump, Pushing 12PSI, 2.5" Turbo-Back Straight Pipe, Euro Head Lights, ALDA Removed, No EGR, Camo Dash + Seat Covers, DU Floor Mats, Cobra CB, LED Trunk lights, 12V outlets in the trunk, and other things...
Duckinator17
12-03-2010, 09:15 AM #13So I guess the best decision in terms of simplicity and realibility would be to find a rebuilt stock turbo and just mount it up. Alright, thanks guys.
'81 300SD- OM617.951, Turned-up Pump, Pushing 12PSI, 2.5" Turbo-Back Straight Pipe, Euro Head Lights, ALDA Removed, No EGR, Camo Dash + Seat Covers, DU Floor Mats, Cobra CB, LED Trunk lights, 12V outlets in the trunk, and other things...
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