road trip 2
road trip 2
Yeah broken air cleaner mount. Maybe one day I can get rid of that ufo and have a long runner intake and exhaust header tied up to ball bearing turbo and a/w intercooler.
First project, put those mufflers in storage and put on the ole four foot pipe.
sweet new car looks nice!
(06-12-2011, 08:39 AM)larsalan ...
Supposed to be an '82 just like my last car but stuff is a little different.
Different tires, center console, turbo, etc.
(06-12-2011, 08:39 AM)larsalan ...
Supposed to be an '82 just like my last car but stuff is a little different.
Different tires, center console, turbo, etc.
That is quite a good guess.
It looks like it is from a smashed 85 then.
There is some weird vacuum thing on the turbo near the intake.
Also there is no air cond. and the hard line for it that crosses in front of the valve cover looks like it met a head-on collision.
Motor runs good and body looks nice. Title says it is a corrected/dup title.
Where is the engine serial? On the front of the block?
Will look for the trans # of the side by the pan.
(06-13-2011, 05:55 PM)larsalan ..
There is some weird vacuum thing on the turbo near the intake.
..
(06-13-2011, 05:55 PM)larsalan ..
There is some weird vacuum thing on the turbo near the intake.
..
First valve adjustment went well, they adjusted easily into place. But as I put those fuel return lines back onto the valve cover where there is a little clip, I tore one open and ended up spilling probably 5 gallons of fuel on a 350 mile trip huge mess and waste of $
Also, there is some alignment crap that makes the car shake at about 60mph+
PO says it is track arm bushing or some such. l'll have to address that right away.
And, there is some knocking in the motor that didn't seem to be there before and it's only about half time. Tried to crack each injector but that didn't seem to locate the problem.
(06-24-2011, 10:04 PM)larsalan Also, there is some alignment crap that makes the car shake at about 60mph+
PO says it is track arm bushing or some such. l'll have to address that right away.
(06-24-2011, 10:04 PM)larsalan Also, there is some alignment crap that makes the car shake at about 60mph+
PO says it is track arm bushing or some such. l'll have to address that right away.
well of the bat, the front wheels were not at all balanced. I think now some replacement shocks and it will be quite nice. I was going just over 80 once the wheels were all balanced.
That knocking is the worst! I think I want to make one of those pop testers out of a bottle jack and have a try at tuning in the injectors. The motor for sure runs worst in just the few weeks I've had it
Too stupid. I backed into a tree covered in brush today. Trying to park in the shade. Dented the trunk lid and had to replace the tail lens. Thankfully the body was sparred so all I need is the lid
ufo air filter housing is in the scrap pile. Got that fram 8037 and some abs pipe. Got a chance to feel the play on the turbo. This one is rock solid.
This moody bitch won't shutoff now!!
Nothing infuriates me more. Driving about, stop at the atm, stop at the Chinese restaurant, stop at a friends house, get to the dog park and now she won't fucking stop!!
What seems to be the problem you bitch!
And it's raining and it's 95 degrees fuck it all.
Let her run!
Ok, I need some diesel 102 lessons.
If I can get a few spare $ I might want to plumb up a FMIC
So, power comes from more air and more fuel. If the fuel is just staying stock and the turbo is stock then what will the intercooler do?
It means more air, right? Cause it will be more dense. Anyway running the intercooler should be an performance upgrade, right?
And what is the best size? Not a itsy bitsy one for a civic and not a big boy from a powerstroke.
Is all that volume in the intercooler going to put in a bit more lag?
The intercooler should loower your intake temps, hence lower your EGTs, hence add longevity to your engine. Also, if you play with your pump, you will have that EGT buffer. It should not add much lag, as long as it is sized correctly. The only major issue is fitting it without hacking the bumper or looking stupid ;-)
So what is proper size? And what is that based on, engine displacement, turbo airflow?
looks like they are all about 25-31 in wide
then there are heights like 5, 7, 11in
and the thickness of like 3-5in.
Eventually I will have to ask how to plump it too. Is there any point in having a 3in inlet/outlet if the turbo is more like 2in.
You can try just removing the ALDA from the injection pump, leaving the boost line connected. With no ALDA hooked up at all, see if you get any smoke. No black smoke currently could be as easy as you just have a clean intake manifold and the proper boost level already set.
For the intercooler, stay with a thinner model (2.5-3" thick), the thicker one looks cool but actually doesnt cool as well as the thin one. Also, if you can find a 2-2.5" in/out, that should be fine. If the in/out is 3", just neck it down to to fit a better size. With a stock pump, or even mildly tweaked stock pump, I don't think you are going to need a huge intercooler. Find the biggest one that will fit without having to hack stuff too bad. Just remember, the more air volume (IC size and tube size) the more it has to compress before getting boost. Even with a moderate IC, I doubt you will have too much lag.
With a FMIC on the way I am planning out the installation. I also have a new/old intake manifold all cleaned up.
I thought I would crank up the max boost on the wastegate. What amount of boost can this stock turbo make? How much should I turn it up to?
Hey Larsalan,
Very nice looking car !!! Paint looks good ... congrats.
Oh, thanks. Was just doing some paint today too. Blacked out the head light bezels. And reblacked the grill.
It's not all that great but I have fun
So what about that boost? No egt gauge just trying not to have a melt down
Stock turbo? like 12lbs. 14 max
Custom skid plate? Found this old tractor panel in my forest. Think I should clean it up and see what it would take to fit it under the motor with a few bolts, cutting, brackets, repainting or whatever.
The FMIC installation is on hold because it's going to take some body cutting and needs some connectors and pipes that a beaucoup bucks.
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there is that skid plate all mounted up and stuff
I want skid plates!!
@larsalan You should drill a hole where the drain is for the oil pan. For you can just reach up there and take out the plug with out removing the plate. Then you can add a few more blots
I plan to do a whole belly pan on mine. From front to rear diff. Should work out pretty easy
(11-06-2011, 07:52 AM)larsalan Custom skid plate? Found this old tractor panel in my forest. Think I should clean it up and see what it would take to fit it under the motor with a few bolts, cutting, brackets, repainting or whatever...
(11-14-2011, 01:30 AM)Captain America I plan to do a whole belly pan on mine. From front to rear diff. Should work out pretty easy
(11-06-2011, 07:52 AM)larsalan Custom skid plate? Found this old tractor panel in my forest. Think I should clean it up and see what it would take to fit it under the motor with a few bolts, cutting, brackets, repainting or whatever...
(11-14-2011, 01:30 AM)Captain America I plan to do a whole belly pan on mine. From front to rear diff. Should work out pretty easy
I have the same skid DV. But I am going to weld some plate to it for reinforcement, then continue it all the way to the back to protect the trans and rest of the drive train when I start off roading again haha
Dimensions? I dunno. It's not so much a skid plate as a aerodynamics plate in my mind. The steel is thin and doesn't have those reinforcing ribs like yours. It was just something to do.
You can see it next to that shovel. We had to trim the back corners to let the steering shit move. Control arms or whatever they're called. I just have 2 bolts in it. One at the front and one at the rear. But, the leading edge is pretty well pinned into the body sheet metal.
Are skid plates available commercially for w123's or are they a diy kind of thing??
How much dose the stock ones cost?
(11-14-2011, 10:17 PM)aaa My off-the-wall guess would be 300 or something.
(11-14-2011, 10:17 PM)aaa My off-the-wall guess would be 300 or something.
(11-14-2011, 09:23 PM)serverman777 How much dose the stock ones cost?
(11-14-2011, 09:23 PM)serverman777 How much dose the stock ones cost?
(11-15-2011, 03:05 AM)mike-81-240dWell thats dumb.....(11-14-2011, 09:23 PM)serverman777 How much dose the stock ones cost?
The stock one they are talking about wont fit on your W126 though...
(11-15-2011, 03:05 AM)mike-81-240dWell thats dumb.....(11-14-2011, 09:23 PM)serverman777 How much dose the stock ones cost?
The stock one they are talking about wont fit on your W126 though...
Paid $90 for mine
So the Mercedes-built one just bolts right on? Or are there special brackets and stuff that are needed also
The w126 plate is NLA.
Part number 1265200442, was about $140.00.
Both w123 and w126 skid plates bolt on to existing mounting points on the body.
W123 oil pan plate with radiator plate that is NLA.
.
I have the oem W123 oil pan and radiator plates...
Well shit, now my heater core is dumping coolant all over the floor. If I just don't run the heater do you think I can let it ride for a while?
Sounds like a plan for now. Anyway you know anymore about that? Is the supply hose on the driver's side of the block right over the oil filter?
Just like cut the heater core out of the loop? Run some heater hose in place of that part of the loop?
I would just put a ball valve in the heater loop some place, I think that would be the simplest solution. Then after you get your heater core problem fixed, it would still be there for emergencies in case you ever had a problem again