STD Maintenance General IP INSTALLATION AND TIMING

IP INSTALLATION AND TIMING

IP INSTALLATION AND TIMING

 
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carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
08-27-2011, 09:24 PM #1
i am searching everywhere on the site and on the net and i dont find how to time correctly an ip to a disturbed engine,you know if i have a gas engine out of time on the distributor i put the marks on 0 and then i point the rotor to the number one tower on the cap.i read somewhere about a wire to put somewhere but i dont know ,im just talking about if i want to replace an ip and somebody turned the ip or the engine how i do it
This post was last modified: 08-27-2011, 09:28 PM by carlitosgy6.
carlitosgy6
08-27-2011, 09:24 PM #1

i am searching everywhere on the site and on the net and i dont find how to time correctly an ip to a disturbed engine,you know if i have a gas engine out of time on the distributor i put the marks on 0 and then i point the rotor to the number one tower on the cap.i read somewhere about a wire to put somewhere but i dont know ,im just talking about if i want to replace an ip and somebody turned the ip or the engine how i do it

aaa
GT2256V

913
08-27-2011, 10:10 PM #2
See here. Use the marks mentioned in the thread for initial installation then look up the drip method for fine adjustment afterwards.
aaa
08-27-2011, 10:10 PM #2

See here. Use the marks mentioned in the thread for initial installation then look up the drip method for fine adjustment afterwards.

MTUPower
looking for more power on a daily driver

287
09-01-2011, 06:09 PM #3
Well I'm tired of smoke at idle. I can turn down the pump for less smoke under load, but I still get too much smoke at idle. I'm sure it's timing. I've got it set at around 24- which direction should I move it- less meaning like 22 or more like 26? On a related issue I have horrible shifts- much to hard unless I am at full load (foot to the floor all the time). My stock modified pump gave perfect shifts all the time under any condition. Help there?

2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
MTUPower
09-01-2011, 06:09 PM #3

Well I'm tired of smoke at idle. I can turn down the pump for less smoke under load, but I still get too much smoke at idle. I'm sure it's timing. I've got it set at around 24- which direction should I move it- less meaning like 22 or more like 26? On a related issue I have horrible shifts- much to hard unless I am at full load (foot to the floor all the time). My stock modified pump gave perfect shifts all the time under any condition. Help there?


2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's

tomnik
Holset

587
09-01-2011, 11:14 PM #4
Hi,

idle smoke is too low fuel pressure.
Measure the pressure between filter and IP I bet is goes zero under load.
First check/replace your fuel filter, then replace your check valves in your lift pump. Both will not solve the issue but reduces smoke. The final solution is either to add an electric lift pump or to replace the lift pump by one out of a MW-pump off a truck.
I did this recently (had to cut off the flange parts and weld it to fit on my M-pump). The difference is shocking.

About your shifts: For sure you have a leak in the vac line to or from the IP VCV.
Check and report back.

Tom


(09-01-2011, 06:09 PM)MTUPower Well I'm tired of smoke at idle. I can turn down the pump for less smoke under load, but I still get too much smoke at idle. I'm sure it's timing. I've got it set at around 24- which direction should I move it- less meaning like 22 or more like 26? On a related issue I have horrible shifts- much to hard unless I am at full load (foot to the floor all the time). My stock modified pump gave perfect shifts all the time under any condition. Help there?

tomnik
09-01-2011, 11:14 PM #4

Hi,

idle smoke is too low fuel pressure.
Measure the pressure between filter and IP I bet is goes zero under load.
First check/replace your fuel filter, then replace your check valves in your lift pump. Both will not solve the issue but reduces smoke. The final solution is either to add an electric lift pump or to replace the lift pump by one out of a MW-pump off a truck.
I did this recently (had to cut off the flange parts and weld it to fit on my M-pump). The difference is shocking.

About your shifts: For sure you have a leak in the vac line to or from the IP VCV.
Check and report back.

Tom


(09-01-2011, 06:09 PM)MTUPower Well I'm tired of smoke at idle. I can turn down the pump for less smoke under load, but I still get too much smoke at idle. I'm sure it's timing. I've got it set at around 24- which direction should I move it- less meaning like 22 or more like 26? On a related issue I have horrible shifts- much to hard unless I am at full load (foot to the floor all the time). My stock modified pump gave perfect shifts all the time under any condition. Help there?

MTUPower
looking for more power on a daily driver

287
09-04-2011, 12:15 PM #5
I have new fuel filters with no effect. I turned down the amount of fuel and the higher rpm smoke is not as bad, but the idle smoke is still there, but reduced a lesser amount. The lesser fuel also helped with the hard shifts. I may have to try the electric fuel pump- have an idea or product solution? At some point in time I'll need to go to a VNT in order to take advantage of the myna pump.

2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
MTUPower
09-04-2011, 12:15 PM #5

I have new fuel filters with no effect. I turned down the amount of fuel and the higher rpm smoke is not as bad, but the idle smoke is still there, but reduced a lesser amount. The lesser fuel also helped with the hard shifts. I may have to try the electric fuel pump- have an idea or product solution? At some point in time I'll need to go to a VNT in order to take advantage of the myna pump.


2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's

Kozuka
I'm_Badass

334
09-05-2011, 06:24 PM #6
The ideal way, I think would probably be to delete the lift pump and run a Walbro GSL-392 or a Fuelab Prodigy fuel pump and a fuelab FPR and a inline filter you need to have something thats rated at 30+ psi as for gph these guys could give you a better answer.
Kozuka
09-05-2011, 06:24 PM #6

The ideal way, I think would probably be to delete the lift pump and run a Walbro GSL-392 or a Fuelab Prodigy fuel pump and a fuelab FPR and a inline filter you need to have something thats rated at 30+ psi as for gph these guys could give you a better answer.

MTUPower
looking for more power on a daily driver

287
09-06-2011, 08:57 PM #7
I guess I'd have to be sure the advice is good because I'd spend close to $200 for the pump and related stuff + time to install it myself. If it does not stop the smoke what good it would it do otherwise? Are there other things it would help with? I'm not rich or have loads of time on my hands....

2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
MTUPower
09-06-2011, 08:57 PM #7

I guess I'd have to be sure the advice is good because I'd spend close to $200 for the pump and related stuff + time to install it myself. If it does not stop the smoke what good it would it do otherwise? Are there other things it would help with? I'm not rich or have loads of time on my hands....


2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's

tomnik
Holset

587
09-06-2011, 09:44 PM #8
(09-06-2011, 08:57 PM)MTUPower I guess I'd have to be sure the advice is good because I'd spend close to $200 for the pump and related stuff + time to install it myself. If it does not stop the smoke what good it would it do otherwise? Are there other things it would help with? I'm not rich or have loads of time on my hands....

delivery valves causing post spray of the nozzles...

Tom
tomnik
09-06-2011, 09:44 PM #8

(09-06-2011, 08:57 PM)MTUPower I guess I'd have to be sure the advice is good because I'd spend close to $200 for the pump and related stuff + time to install it myself. If it does not stop the smoke what good it would it do otherwise? Are there other things it would help with? I'm not rich or have loads of time on my hands....

delivery valves causing post spray of the nozzles...

Tom

MTUPower
looking for more power on a daily driver

287
09-07-2011, 05:19 AM #9
(09-06-2011, 09:44 PM)tomnik delivery valves causing post spray of the nozzles...

Tom
And low fuel pressure causes delivery valve to post spray?
If I install the extra FP will I have to remove the lift pump on my IP or can I just leave it there and between the fuel cell and the IP install the electric FP?
Will I need a primary filter before the EFP? (why notWink)

I thank you in advance.

This post was last modified: 09-07-2011, 05:20 AM by MTUPower.

2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
MTUPower
09-07-2011, 05:19 AM #9

(09-06-2011, 09:44 PM)tomnik delivery valves causing post spray of the nozzles...

Tom
And low fuel pressure causes delivery valve to post spray?
If I install the extra FP will I have to remove the lift pump on my IP or can I just leave it there and between the fuel cell and the IP install the electric FP?
Will I need a primary filter before the EFP? (why notWink)

I thank you in advance.


2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's

tomnik
Holset

587
09-07-2011, 02:43 PM #10
(09-07-2011, 05:19 AM)MTUPower And low fuel pressure causes delivery valve to post spray?
If I install the extra FP will I have to remove the lift pump on my IP or can I just leave it there and between the fuel cell and the IP install the electric FP?
Will I need a primary filter before the EFP? (why notWink)

low fuel pressure causes idle smoke because the elements can not be filled completely. This is important with larger elements.

Larger elements change the orchestra of pressure waves in the hard lines in combination with nozzles. The peak pressure will rise with larger elements.
My theory is to replace the delivery valves by others with more displacement to rather reduce the residual line pressure.

Can your EFP be passed through by the stock lift pump in case it does not work?
If not I does not make sense to me to leave the stock LP in.

A filter before the inlet is always bad for a pump. What about the stock primary filter? Not 2 of them.

Tom
tomnik
09-07-2011, 02:43 PM #10

(09-07-2011, 05:19 AM)MTUPower And low fuel pressure causes delivery valve to post spray?
If I install the extra FP will I have to remove the lift pump on my IP or can I just leave it there and between the fuel cell and the IP install the electric FP?
Will I need a primary filter before the EFP? (why notWink)

low fuel pressure causes idle smoke because the elements can not be filled completely. This is important with larger elements.

Larger elements change the orchestra of pressure waves in the hard lines in combination with nozzles. The peak pressure will rise with larger elements.
My theory is to replace the delivery valves by others with more displacement to rather reduce the residual line pressure.

Can your EFP be passed through by the stock lift pump in case it does not work?
If not I does not make sense to me to leave the stock LP in.

A filter before the inlet is always bad for a pump. What about the stock primary filter? Not 2 of them.

Tom

MTUPower
looking for more power on a daily driver

287
09-07-2011, 08:09 PM #11
I may be buying the walbro soon then. Next I have to find the ignition wires so that it turns on when the car is running and off when it's not. I'll need a check valve to install also I assume.

2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
MTUPower
09-07-2011, 08:09 PM #11

I may be buying the walbro soon then. Next I have to find the ignition wires so that it turns on when the car is running and off when it's not. I'll need a check valve to install also I assume.


2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's

MTUPower
looking for more power on a daily driver

287
09-27-2011, 05:14 AM #12
Hello folks- quick question- could a fuel pump from a gasser V8 m117 Mercedes be used in place of a aftermarket fuel pump? I could get one of those from the junkyards easily and it'd be cheap. Any reason why not? thanks!

2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
MTUPower
09-27-2011, 05:14 AM #12

Hello folks- quick question- could a fuel pump from a gasser V8 m117 Mercedes be used in place of a aftermarket fuel pump? I could get one of those from the junkyards easily and it'd be cheap. Any reason why not? thanks!


2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's

Hercules
GT2559V

219
09-27-2011, 12:41 PM #13
Used a EFI pump to remove trans. fluid from dip stick when over filled,tried several cis pumps but those would not pump the heavier fluid,good luck.
Hercules
09-27-2011, 12:41 PM #13

Used a EFI pump to remove trans. fluid from dip stick when over filled,tried several cis pumps but those would not pump the heavier fluid,good luck.

MTUPower
looking for more power on a daily driver

287
09-27-2011, 07:26 PM #14
(09-27-2011, 12:41 PM)Hercules Used a EFI pump to remove trans. fluid from dip stick when over filled,tried several cis pumps but those would not pump the heavier fluid,good luck.
so you think the gasser fuel pump from a MB would work, or not?

2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
MTUPower
09-27-2011, 07:26 PM #14

(09-27-2011, 12:41 PM)Hercules Used a EFI pump to remove trans. fluid from dip stick when over filled,tried several cis pumps but those would not pump the heavier fluid,good luck.
so you think the gasser fuel pump from a MB would work, or not?


2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's

Kozuka
I'm_Badass

334
09-27-2011, 09:51 PM #15
Is it a dual or single pump? I remember reading that someone could generate 30psi with the dual cis pumps from 16v's & 500E's maybe a few others.
Kozuka
09-27-2011, 09:51 PM #15

Is it a dual or single pump? I remember reading that someone could generate 30psi with the dual cis pumps from 16v's & 500E's maybe a few others.

tomnik
Holset

587
09-27-2011, 11:39 PM #16
Hi,

my statement in post #4 and #10 about fuel pressure and idle smoke in combination with Floyd elements (on a 603 turbo engine) is not really true or better I have to add the latest tests:

After having 1.5 bar fuel pressure at idel AND idle smoke I altered the timing.
First I advanced up to 26 deg BTDC but without change then I retarded and idle smoke is gone.
I have to say that I run on veggie and checked timing with flash light and piezo clamp.
Now I am at 14 deg BTDC (instead of 24). No idle smoke, less black smoke under load, unbelievable smooth running engine.
First impression is a bit less responsive, but 60-130 Km/h acceleration test shows absolutely no difference.
Could not test drive for long time neither EGT install finished (as I had to leave for a business trip) but this seems to be the sweet point.

Tom
tomnik
09-27-2011, 11:39 PM #16

Hi,

my statement in post #4 and #10 about fuel pressure and idle smoke in combination with Floyd elements (on a 603 turbo engine) is not really true or better I have to add the latest tests:

After having 1.5 bar fuel pressure at idel AND idle smoke I altered the timing.
First I advanced up to 26 deg BTDC but without change then I retarded and idle smoke is gone.
I have to say that I run on veggie and checked timing with flash light and piezo clamp.
Now I am at 14 deg BTDC (instead of 24). No idle smoke, less black smoke under load, unbelievable smooth running engine.
First impression is a bit less responsive, but 60-130 Km/h acceleration test shows absolutely no difference.
Could not test drive for long time neither EGT install finished (as I had to leave for a business trip) but this seems to be the sweet point.

Tom

dieselmeken
Holset

407
09-28-2011, 03:24 AM #17
Smoke at idle is usually early or late ignition or bad compression, not enough heat in combustionchamber.
The bad compression / late ignition you can smell in the exhaustpipe, a special smell that you cant miss.

Inlet feedpressure usually dont have anything with smoke to do. If the inletpressure is to low, it starts to missfire at load and high rpm.


Tomnik, Why 24 degrees? And was the 24 degrees dynamic at idle? If so, you are on 28-29 BTDC at part or full load, and that is way out wrong. Didn´t the engine knock hard for you?

I put in the pump at 13 degrees after on engine, I set the pump 16 degrees offset in bench, that gives me 19 degrees at full load, Floyd redarded notch gives 2 pumpdegrees ( 4 eng) at 8-10 cc @300 rpm.
So it ends up at app 15 degrees at Idle, so I understand that the enginge is smoot and smokefree on idle, my always is. its perfect timed.
dieselmeken
09-28-2011, 03:24 AM #17

Smoke at idle is usually early or late ignition or bad compression, not enough heat in combustionchamber.
The bad compression / late ignition you can smell in the exhaustpipe, a special smell that you cant miss.

Inlet feedpressure usually dont have anything with smoke to do. If the inletpressure is to low, it starts to missfire at load and high rpm.


Tomnik, Why 24 degrees? And was the 24 degrees dynamic at idle? If so, you are on 28-29 BTDC at part or full load, and that is way out wrong. Didn´t the engine knock hard for you?

I put in the pump at 13 degrees after on engine, I set the pump 16 degrees offset in bench, that gives me 19 degrees at full load, Floyd redarded notch gives 2 pumpdegrees ( 4 eng) at 8-10 cc @300 rpm.
So it ends up at app 15 degrees at Idle, so I understand that the enginge is smoot and smokefree on idle, my always is. its perfect timed.

Hercules
GT2559V

219
09-28-2011, 01:27 PM #18
(09-27-2011, 07:26 PM)MTUPower
(09-27-2011, 12:41 PM)Hercules Used a EFI pump to remove trans. fluid from dip stick when over filled,tried several cis pumps but those would not pump the heavier fluid,good luck.
so you think the gasser fuel pump from a MB would work, or not?

Read some one said it worked for them, (cis pump) yard pump might be worth a try. Diesel fuel lighter than trans fluid. The older EFI pump was able suck the trans. fluid up the tube and pump,not fast,but strong enough. The newer cis pump could suck the fluid up,but would than stall,not pump,most likely caused by closer tolerances.Which one is the best for diesel ???
Hercules
09-28-2011, 01:27 PM #18

(09-27-2011, 07:26 PM)MTUPower
(09-27-2011, 12:41 PM)Hercules Used a EFI pump to remove trans. fluid from dip stick when over filled,tried several cis pumps but those would not pump the heavier fluid,good luck.
so you think the gasser fuel pump from a MB would work, or not?

Read some one said it worked for them, (cis pump) yard pump might be worth a try. Diesel fuel lighter than trans fluid. The older EFI pump was able suck the trans. fluid up the tube and pump,not fast,but strong enough. The newer cis pump could suck the fluid up,but would than stall,not pump,most likely caused by closer tolerances.Which one is the best for diesel ???

MTUPower
looking for more power on a daily driver

287
09-28-2011, 03:53 PM #19
(09-27-2011, 11:39 PM)tomnik Hi,

my statement in post #4 ...
Tom
(09-28-2011, 03:24 AM)dieselmeken Smoke at idle ...
So both of you believe at this time I ought to change the timing to around 13-14 BTDC?

2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
MTUPower
09-28-2011, 03:53 PM #19

(09-27-2011, 11:39 PM)tomnik Hi,

my statement in post #4 ...
Tom
(09-28-2011, 03:24 AM)dieselmeken Smoke at idle ...
So both of you believe at this time I ought to change the timing to around 13-14 BTDC?


2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's

tomnik
Holset

587
09-28-2011, 04:29 PM #20
At least this took away the idle smoke.
But keep a look on EGTs.
Also keep in mind that my values are valid with Floyd elements with the retarding edge.
Inform us about your results.

Tom

(09-28-2011, 03:53 PM)MTUPower
(09-27-2011, 11:39 PM)tomnik Hi,

my statement in post #4 ...
Tom
(09-28-2011, 03:24 AM)dieselmeken Smoke at idle ...
So both of you believe at this time I ought to change the timing to around 13-14 BTDC?

tomnik
09-28-2011, 04:29 PM #20

At least this took away the idle smoke.
But keep a look on EGTs.
Also keep in mind that my values are valid with Floyd elements with the retarding edge.
Inform us about your results.

Tom

(09-28-2011, 03:53 PM)MTUPower
(09-27-2011, 11:39 PM)tomnik Hi,

my statement in post #4 ...
Tom
(09-28-2011, 03:24 AM)dieselmeken Smoke at idle ...
So both of you believe at this time I ought to change the timing to around 13-14 BTDC?

dieselmeken
Holset

407
09-29-2011, 02:59 AM #21
(09-28-2011, 03:53 PM)MTUPower
(09-27-2011, 11:39 PM)tomnik Hi,

my statement in post #4 ...
Tom
(09-28-2011, 03:24 AM)dieselmeken Smoke at idle ...
So both of you believe at this time I ought to change the timing to around 13-14 BTDC?

No, not 13-14, dont go later than 15 degrees BUT ONLY
if you have the retarded angle that gives app 4 degrees later ignition on low idle, But if you have the common 7 mm element there is no such thing, then I would try 19 degree BTDC.
Also these figueres demand a dynamic timingkit for checkout.. IMPORTANT

Try this out, btw have you tested the compression pressure?
One more thing, If you put power to the glowplugs while it idle, do you se any changes in smoke then?
If the pump is completly wrong timed, that is one engine rpm wrong, ( half pumprpm) the engine starts hard, but it runs with a lot of smoke and hard knock on idle.
That is a common problem with people that dont know the basic of a 4 stroke diesel 4-6-8-cyl,but still, they want to try. A typical phonecall to my workshop can sound something like this.

- But I did put the pump in at 19 degrees as you told me.....
- Yes, but did you have the engine at the correct stroke??
- Stroke? you told me 19 degrees!
- Yes but... and so on.

dieselmeken
09-29-2011, 02:59 AM #21

(09-28-2011, 03:53 PM)MTUPower
(09-27-2011, 11:39 PM)tomnik Hi,

my statement in post #4 ...
Tom
(09-28-2011, 03:24 AM)dieselmeken Smoke at idle ...
So both of you believe at this time I ought to change the timing to around 13-14 BTDC?

No, not 13-14, dont go later than 15 degrees BUT ONLY
if you have the retarded angle that gives app 4 degrees later ignition on low idle, But if you have the common 7 mm element there is no such thing, then I would try 19 degree BTDC.
Also these figueres demand a dynamic timingkit for checkout.. IMPORTANT

Try this out, btw have you tested the compression pressure?
One more thing, If you put power to the glowplugs while it idle, do you se any changes in smoke then?
If the pump is completly wrong timed, that is one engine rpm wrong, ( half pumprpm) the engine starts hard, but it runs with a lot of smoke and hard knock on idle.
That is a common problem with people that dont know the basic of a 4 stroke diesel 4-6-8-cyl,but still, they want to try. A typical phonecall to my workshop can sound something like this.

- But I did put the pump in at 19 degrees as you told me.....
- Yes, but did you have the engine at the correct stroke??
- Stroke? you told me 19 degrees!
- Yes but... and so on.

MTUPower
looking for more power on a daily driver

287
09-29-2011, 09:17 PM #22
The engine start easily and there is no change in smoke with power to the glow plugs. I had no issues with the stock IP and my last compression check showed even reading at all cylinders. I have a myna pump- not the floyd elements. I'd love to call but your in Sweden and I'm not. I'll try the timing at 19 and report back.

2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
MTUPower
09-29-2011, 09:17 PM #22

The engine start easily and there is no change in smoke with power to the glow plugs. I had no issues with the stock IP and my last compression check showed even reading at all cylinders. I have a myna pump- not the floyd elements. I'd love to call but your in Sweden and I'm not. I'll try the timing at 19 and report back.


2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's

MTUPower
looking for more power on a daily driver

287
10-14-2011, 02:25 PM #23
changed timing to 19 degrees and no smoke at idle. Very little smoke at most pedal positions except when stomped on from a dead stop, and then it's a monster cloud. No official tests but it seems a bit more quiet and a tad slower. Still, the no smoke when I'm at a stop light or when moving very slow in the elementary school drop off line is much much better. I hated having smoke at idle. Now onto more changes for more power!

2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
MTUPower
10-14-2011, 02:25 PM #23

changed timing to 19 degrees and no smoke at idle. Very little smoke at most pedal positions except when stomped on from a dead stop, and then it's a monster cloud. No official tests but it seems a bit more quiet and a tad slower. Still, the no smoke when I'm at a stop light or when moving very slow in the elementary school drop off line is much much better. I hated having smoke at idle. Now onto more changes for more power!


2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's

MTUPower
looking for more power on a daily driver

287
10-17-2011, 04:46 PM #24
While it does have nearly all the smoking issues resolved, there is considerably less power than with the 24 degree timing at it's highest fuel delivery level, and the boost at the 24 degree level reached close to 25 and now it's top level is around 15. Strangely enough it reaches 15 early and then goes LOWER with increasing rpm to the shift point. Otherwise it's seems great. Now on occasion it stumbles after starting during the 30 second warm up. Newish glow plugs and never stumbled prior.

Will the 19 degree timing cause less full power?

2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
MTUPower
10-17-2011, 04:46 PM #24

While it does have nearly all the smoking issues resolved, there is considerably less power than with the 24 degree timing at it's highest fuel delivery level, and the boost at the 24 degree level reached close to 25 and now it's top level is around 15. Strangely enough it reaches 15 early and then goes LOWER with increasing rpm to the shift point. Otherwise it's seems great. Now on occasion it stumbles after starting during the 30 second warm up. Newish glow plugs and never stumbled prior.

Will the 19 degree timing cause less full power?


2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's

dieselmeken
Holset

407
10-18-2011, 12:39 AM #25
Have you done a dynotest so you know where you are? Have you tested the backpressure in the exhaustmainfold and compared to the 24 degrees timing?
Do you have black smoke att full throttle and full load?

(10-17-2011, 04:46 PM)MTUPower While it does have nearly all the smoking issues resolved, there is considerably less power than with the 24 degree timing at it's highest fuel delivery level, and the boost at the 24 degree level reached close to 25 and now it's top level is around 15. Strangely enough it reaches 15 early and then goes LOWER with increasing rpm to the shift point. Otherwise it's seems great. Now on occasion it stumbles after starting during the 30 second warm up. Newish glow plugs and never stumbled prior.

Will the 19 degree timing cause less full power?

dieselmeken
10-18-2011, 12:39 AM #25

Have you done a dynotest so you know where you are? Have you tested the backpressure in the exhaustmainfold and compared to the 24 degrees timing?
Do you have black smoke att full throttle and full load?

(10-17-2011, 04:46 PM)MTUPower While it does have nearly all the smoking issues resolved, there is considerably less power than with the 24 degree timing at it's highest fuel delivery level, and the boost at the 24 degree level reached close to 25 and now it's top level is around 15. Strangely enough it reaches 15 early and then goes LOWER with increasing rpm to the shift point. Otherwise it's seems great. Now on occasion it stumbles after starting during the 30 second warm up. Newish glow plugs and never stumbled prior.

Will the 19 degree timing cause less full power?

MTUPower
looking for more power on a daily driver

287
10-18-2011, 06:19 PM #26
(10-18-2011, 12:39 AM)dieselmeken Have you done a dynotest so you know where you are? Have you tested the backpressure in the exhaustmainfold and compared to the 24 degrees timing?
Do you have black smoke att full throttle and full load?
No black smoke at full throttle at any speed- only from a dead stop full throttle at the start. No smoke at any speed in daylight- but in the night with a following car's headlights I can see some (not much) smoke. Before at 24 degrees I could see smoke in the headlights no matter how slowly I tried to accelerate.

No dyno testing yet- it's $150 I'd rather not spend right now.
No back pressure testing. Stock exhaust minus the rear muffler which was replaced by straight pipe. "Jet Hot" type of coating on the exhaust manifold. I have not enlarged the prechambers, I have not changed the exhaust size, stock turbo still.

Should I continue to adjust closer to 24 until I see a bit of smoke?
This post was last modified: 10-18-2011, 06:22 PM by MTUPower.

2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
MTUPower
10-18-2011, 06:19 PM #26

(10-18-2011, 12:39 AM)dieselmeken Have you done a dynotest so you know where you are? Have you tested the backpressure in the exhaustmainfold and compared to the 24 degrees timing?
Do you have black smoke att full throttle and full load?
No black smoke at full throttle at any speed- only from a dead stop full throttle at the start. No smoke at any speed in daylight- but in the night with a following car's headlights I can see some (not much) smoke. Before at 24 degrees I could see smoke in the headlights no matter how slowly I tried to accelerate.

No dyno testing yet- it's $150 I'd rather not spend right now.
No back pressure testing. Stock exhaust minus the rear muffler which was replaced by straight pipe. "Jet Hot" type of coating on the exhaust manifold. I have not enlarged the prechambers, I have not changed the exhaust size, stock turbo still.

Should I continue to adjust closer to 24 until I see a bit of smoke?


2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's

yankneck696
Build it so strong & blow it up good !!!

395
10-18-2011, 07:52 PM #27
Personally, I would upgrade the exhaust & turbo with intercooling first. Then advance timing to tune it from where you are..

Ed
yankneck696
10-18-2011, 07:52 PM #27

Personally, I would upgrade the exhaust & turbo with intercooling first. Then advance timing to tune it from where you are..

Ed

MTUPower
looking for more power on a daily driver

287
10-19-2011, 06:33 AM #28
(10-18-2011, 07:52 PM)yankneck696 Personally, I would upgrade the exhaust & turbo with intercooling first. Then advance timing to tune it from where you are..

Ed
Ed- It's already got an IC, and changing the turbo to anything other than a VGT is not really in the cards- it's a daily driver. The exhaust already has the rear muffler gone, but the rest is stock. Making this or other modifications to the car is not the question here, but I appreciate the advice. The question now is purely about timing and it's relation to power and smoke.

2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's
MTUPower
10-19-2011, 06:33 AM #28

(10-18-2011, 07:52 PM)yankneck696 Personally, I would upgrade the exhaust & turbo with intercooling first. Then advance timing to tune it from where you are..

Ed
Ed- It's already got an IC, and changing the turbo to anything other than a VGT is not really in the cards- it's a daily driver. The exhaust already has the rear muffler gone, but the rest is stock. Making this or other modifications to the car is not the question here, but I appreciate the advice. The question now is purely about timing and it's relation to power and smoke.


2005 CDI heavily modified 1984 300TD - Myna pump/TMIC/enlarged PC's/HX30Super/W126 II front brakes/Vogtland springs/EGT +Boost gauges/H4 Hella's

 
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