Oil line fittings - OM606
Oil line fittings - OM606
09-05-2011, 01:17 PM
#1
- Oil feed line to turbo - what size is the fitting on the block? I haven't disturbed this yet since it is corroded and I'd like to have a replacement on hand in the event it breaks upon disassembly.
- Oil cooler lines to/from oil filter housing - at the end of the flexible hoses. These fittings are male and have some kind of tapered/flange feature to them - it looks like JIC, but it can't be THAT simple...can it?
(I.D. of the male fittings at the end of the hoses is 12mm and the OD of the black hose is about 26mm...)
I'm accustomed to NPT and AN/JIC - all of these European flared fittings are completely new to me. I'm trying to shop around for adapters so I can either go with AN or JIC fittings (and lines) which are commonly available here in the USA.
Also on the prowl for information on the 722.435 banjo bolt style fittings. Those are yet another type of fitting that isn't used all that often on stuff made in the USA...grrr.
Beers,
Matt
FYI/FWIW:
The banjo bolts on the 722.435 for the cooler lines are M12 x 28mm with 17mm heads.
Beers,
Matt
Just ordered a pair of 12mm banjo to -6AN adapters for $19 a pop:
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc...egory_Code=
This post was last modified: 09-05-2011, 03:45 PM by HoleshotHolset.
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
HoleshotHolset
09-05-2011, 01:17 PM #1Anyone know right off the top of their head the specs on the following fittings...
- Oil feed line to turbo - what size is the fitting on the block? I haven't disturbed this yet since it is corroded and I'd like to have a replacement on hand in the event it breaks upon disassembly.
- Oil cooler lines to/from oil filter housing - at the end of the flexible hoses. These fittings are male and have some kind of tapered/flange feature to them - it looks like JIC, but it can't be THAT simple...can it? (I.D. of the male fittings at the end of the hoses is 12mm and the OD of the black hose is about 26mm...)
I'm accustomed to NPT and AN/JIC - all of these European flared fittings are completely new to me. I'm trying to shop around for adapters so I can either go with AN or JIC fittings (and lines) which are commonly available here in the USA.
Also on the prowl for information on the 722.435 banjo bolt style fittings. Those are yet another type of fitting that isn't used all that often on stuff made in the USA...grrr.
Beers,
Matt
FYI/FWIW:
The banjo bolts on the 722.435 for the cooler lines are M12 x 28mm with 17mm heads.
Beers,
Matt
Just ordered a pair of 12mm banjo to -6AN adapters for $19 a pop:
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc...egory_Code=
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
09-15-2011, 12:06 AM
#2
Went to the local NAPA location and they had an entire ROOM full of hydraulic fittings, hose and various bits of machinery to make it happen.
This isn't the most graceful solution, but it should work out OK. The fitting is 5/8" JIC which is the same thing as -10AN. Either of these fittings is VERY common here in the USA. I'm still not sure what the exact specifications are on the metric fitting that I cut off...oh well.
Total cost to put JIC fittings on the hoses: $22 and change.
This post was last modified: 09-15-2011, 12:08 AM by HoleshotHolset.
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
HoleshotHolset
09-15-2011, 12:06 AM #2Solved the oil cooler line issue.
Went to the local NAPA location and they had an entire ROOM full of hydraulic fittings, hose and various bits of machinery to make it happen.
This isn't the most graceful solution, but it should work out OK. The fitting is 5/8" JIC which is the same thing as -10AN. Either of these fittings is VERY common here in the USA. I'm still not sure what the exact specifications are on the metric fitting that I cut off...oh well.
Total cost to put JIC fittings on the hoses: $22 and change.
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
09-19-2011, 02:56 AM
#3
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
09-19-2011, 02:56 AM #3Sweet. I will be using -10An on my new cooler lines, and will have to make up a line fo turbo feed as well, -6 or -4 not sure yet
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
09-21-2011, 11:07 PM
#4
Nice line, Holeshot!
This post was last modified: 09-21-2011, 11:08 PM by Biohazard.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
Go with -4 max. I noticed a slight drop in oil pressure from stock line to -4 at idle. -6 would be too much!
Nice line, Holeshot!
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
09-22-2011, 04:16 PM
#5
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
09-22-2011, 04:16 PM #5Yeah but what would the line size to the turbo matter? There should be a restrictor at the turbo oil feed inlet... I think honestly a -3an line would work fine. I am pretty sure the stock line size is roughly 3/8" which is -6AN.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
09-22-2011, 11:22 PM
#6
If I remake my turbo feed line, I'm going with -3.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
I'm going to have to see if the napa up here does that too. Would save me a lot of driving and hassle.
If I remake my turbo feed line, I'm going with -3.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
09-23-2011, 01:00 AM
#7
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
09-23-2011, 01:00 AM #7Yea I dunno why ppl go with a big ass feed line if it just gets restricted down anyway...
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
11-10-2011, 12:56 AM
#9
(09-23-2011, 12:56 PM)winmutt I'm confused here. Don't you already have the fittings from the W210?
What turbo are you using?
Yes. This is for the oil cooler - not turbo feed line. I'm using a big arse aftermarket cooler that uses NPT fittings. The W210/OM606.962 had some odd flared fittings that would be almost impossible to adapt using readily available parts in my neck of the woods.
For now I'm using the OEM KKK turbo from the .962. Once the fuel gets turned up (via larger elements in the M-pump) - who knows. I'd like to use a Holset...I've had very good luck with those turbos over the years. I have an HY35W with a 9cm² turbine housing...that would spool nice and be good to about 300hp...but won't be enough for my 4-500hp goals in the future.
Beers,
Matt
Still looking for some details on the oil feed line to turbo - what size is the fitting on the block? Does anyone have any details on this?
Before I disturb/remove this line, I'd like to know the specs so that I can get aftermarket replacement parts/fittings. It looks like it's going to break/twist if I disturb it.
Thanks,
Matt
This post was last modified: 11-10-2011, 01:44 AM by HoleshotHolset.
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
HoleshotHolset
11-10-2011, 12:56 AM #9(09-23-2011, 12:56 PM)winmutt I'm confused here. Don't you already have the fittings from the W210?
What turbo are you using?
Yes. This is for the oil cooler - not turbo feed line. I'm using a big arse aftermarket cooler that uses NPT fittings. The W210/OM606.962 had some odd flared fittings that would be almost impossible to adapt using readily available parts in my neck of the woods.
For now I'm using the OEM KKK turbo from the .962. Once the fuel gets turned up (via larger elements in the M-pump) - who knows. I'd like to use a Holset...I've had very good luck with those turbos over the years. I have an HY35W with a 9cm² turbine housing...that would spool nice and be good to about 300hp...but won't be enough for my 4-500hp goals in the future.
Beers,
Matt
Still looking for some details on the oil feed line to turbo - what size is the fitting on the block? Does anyone have any details on this?
Before I disturb/remove this line, I'd like to know the specs so that I can get aftermarket replacement parts/fittings. It looks like it's going to break/twist if I disturb it.
Thanks,
Matt
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
11-10-2011, 06:19 AM
#10
Now, the first time I removed it, I believe I removed the fitting from the turbo first then I went after the block fitting. The whole thing moved at first then broke free after it moved a little.
One option might be to simply cut the feed line and install an adapter to a compression fitting around the line. That way, you could put it back if needed with a fitting inline where you made the cut.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
Seems odd, I've removed that fitting about 5 times and it's never been a problem. I just use a flare nut wrench and crack it loose. As I remember, it's kind of like a brake line fitting inside.
Now, the first time I removed it, I believe I removed the fitting from the turbo first then I went after the block fitting. The whole thing moved at first then broke free after it moved a little.
One option might be to simply cut the feed line and install an adapter to a compression fitting around the line. That way, you could put it back if needed with a fitting inline where you made the cut.
1998 MB E300 - 194,000 miles. Current/future mods: 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 Turbo feeding Eaton M90 supercharger through custom fabbed intake system. Aeroturbine muffler, scratch-built 4" stainless exhaust. EGR eliminated, ECM recalibrated, modified rack position feedback circuit. Porterfield RS brake pads, Bilstein sport shocks, VDO EGT, oil and boost gauges.
2000 Ford F250 - 150,000 miles. Current/future mods: DP Tuner 3 map chip, scratch-built high flow intake, high output IDM, open circuit fuel system, ball bearing turbo, South Bend full metal clutch, slotted and drilled rotors. Autometer Sport Comp EGT and boost gauges.
01-15-2013, 04:48 PM
#11
I went to a few different hydraulic fitting/hose supply houses in the greater Madison/Milwaukee area and they all looked at me and said "Good luck with that!"
If anyone has any idea what type of fitting the turbo oil feed line is (on the engine block side) and some sizing details, that would be VERY much appreciated.
On the original turbo oil feed line, the tubing is thick wall and the flare is non-standard in that the angle is different.
Many thanks in advance!
Beers,
Matt
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
HoleshotHolset
01-15-2013, 04:48 PM #11I'm still searching for the proper specs on the turbo oil feed line for the OM606.962.
I went to a few different hydraulic fitting/hose supply houses in the greater Madison/Milwaukee area and they all looked at me and said "Good luck with that!"
If anyone has any idea what type of fitting the turbo oil feed line is (on the engine block side) and some sizing details, that would be VERY much appreciated.
On the original turbo oil feed line, the tubing is thick wall and the flare is non-standard in that the angle is different.
Many thanks in advance!
Beers,
Matt
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
01-18-2013, 10:57 AM
#12
So I need an adapter/nipple that goes from M16x1.5 ISO/bubble male convex to -4AN male.
I'm having very little luck finding an M16x1.5 ISO/bubble convex male fitting...and even less luck finding something in that size that converts to AN. Most of the adapters are for brake lines...and they don't use 10mm O.D. lines for brakes. Grrrr....
The search continues...
Here is the original fitting that goes into the block:
...and I TIG welded this contraption. All would be just fine if I didn't nick the tube while welding it. I put just a little too much heat and the tube melted right at the bubble flare end. $50+ for a whole new line from Mercedes only to ruin it. Damn! I should have brazed the tube to the fitting and then TIG welded the -4AN fitting on. Live and learn...
Beers,
Matt
This is the type of fitting I need...37° JIC (AN) flare on one end and metric bubble fitting on the other.
I need one with M16x1.5 instead of this smaller metric bubble flare fitting that is used for brake lines.
Beers,
Matt
This post was last modified: 01-18-2013, 11:12 AM by HoleshotHolset.
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
HoleshotHolset
01-18-2013, 10:57 AM #12The OEM turbo oil feed line (10mm O.D.) uses an M16x1.5 ISO/bubble flare fitting where it goes into the OM606.962 (turbo only) block.
So I need an adapter/nipple that goes from M16x1.5 ISO/bubble male convex to -4AN male.
I'm having very little luck finding an M16x1.5 ISO/bubble convex male fitting...and even less luck finding something in that size that converts to AN. Most of the adapters are for brake lines...and they don't use 10mm O.D. lines for brakes. Grrrr....
The search continues...
Here is the original fitting that goes into the block:
...and I TIG welded this contraption. All would be just fine if I didn't nick the tube while welding it. I put just a little too much heat and the tube melted right at the bubble flare end. $50+ for a whole new line from Mercedes only to ruin it. Damn! I should have brazed the tube to the fitting and then TIG welded the -4AN fitting on. Live and learn...
Beers,
Matt
This is the type of fitting I need...37° JIC (AN) flare on one end and metric bubble fitting on the other.
I need one with M16x1.5 instead of this smaller metric bubble flare fitting that is used for brake lines.
Beers,
Matt
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
01-18-2013, 12:01 PM
#14
I have killing fittings. Shit like that adds way too much time.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
01-18-2013, 12:01 PM #14That blows. Can you use a M16x1.5 with a crush washer to go into the block? Or a banjo fitting and M16x1.5 with crush washer?
I have killing fittings. Shit like that adds way too much time.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
01-22-2013, 10:49 AM
#15
With the block in the car, there isn't much room to get in there to machine a flat surface. I'm not saying it couldn't be done, but I didn't want to attempt it.
I ended up welding the tube from the original fitting to a common male NPT to 4AN elbow (I hacked off the NPT end...). This setup relies on the original flared tubing to make the seal...which is the way to go, IMHO, if you have that option available to you.
No leaks so far, but I still want to find a good commercially available solution - even if it just sits in the glovebox.
Leak test video (video thread is here)
Big exhaust leak, no oil leak!
Beers,
Matt
This post was last modified: 01-22-2013, 10:59 AM by HoleshotHolset.
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
HoleshotHolset
01-22-2013, 10:49 AM #15I was going to go the banjo bolt route, but the block is rusty near the boss where this fitting goes and that would not allow for a smooth surface for the crush washer to seal against.
With the block in the car, there isn't much room to get in there to machine a flat surface. I'm not saying it couldn't be done, but I didn't want to attempt it.
I ended up welding the tube from the original fitting to a common male NPT to 4AN elbow (I hacked off the NPT end...). This setup relies on the original flared tubing to make the seal...which is the way to go, IMHO, if you have that option available to you.
No leaks so far, but I still want to find a good commercially available solution - even if it just sits in the glovebox.
Leak test video (video thread is here)
Big exhaust leak, no oil leak!
Beers,
Matt
'07 W211 OM642
'95 W124.131/722.435, 211k - daily driver/Superturbo project - OM606.962 with "M" pump...under construction! (build thread here)
'99 W210.025 - gone, but not forgotten
'94 Dodge/Cummins - gone, but not forgotten
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