STD Other Projects 617.952 into 80 SD

617.952 into 80 SD

617.952 into 80 SD

 
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srbsmartie
Naturally-aspirated

14
10-26-2011, 09:21 PM #1
Hello all, here is my new project, I have a 1980 300SD with a 617.950 that has a bad head( big cracks in 3 of the combustion chambers), I am getting a 1983 300d turbo( 617.952) this Saturday to swap the engine out of. I do have a question about the differences in the engines though. I know my 80 doesn't have an EGR and the 83 does, will that be a problem? The 83 doesn't use electronics to control the EGR, right? Question number 2, will the motor mounts be in the same place on the block?
I may end up just finishing the 83 and using it for the DD and use the 80 as another project, I'm thinking om603 or 606 swap...
Any advice or help is appreciated

Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!
srbsmartie
10-26-2011, 09:21 PM #1

Hello all, here is my new project, I have a 1980 300SD with a 617.950 that has a bad head( big cracks in 3 of the combustion chambers), I am getting a 1983 300d turbo( 617.952) this Saturday to swap the engine out of. I do have a question about the differences in the engines though. I know my 80 doesn't have an EGR and the 83 does, will that be a problem? The 83 doesn't use electronics to control the EGR, right? Question number 2, will the motor mounts be in the same place on the block?
I may end up just finishing the 83 and using it for the DD and use the 80 as another project, I'm thinking om603 or 606 swap...
Any advice or help is appreciated


Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!

aaa
GT2256V

913
10-26-2011, 09:46 PM #2
Mounts and manifolds can just be swapped over.
aaa
10-26-2011, 09:46 PM #2

Mounts and manifolds can just be swapped over.

srbsmartie
Naturally-aspirated

14
10-26-2011, 10:16 PM #3
I thought that was the case but wanted to be sure, thanks.

Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!
srbsmartie
10-26-2011, 10:16 PM #3

I thought that was the case but wanted to be sure, thanks.


Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!

srbsmartie
Naturally-aspirated

14
10-30-2011, 01:20 PM #4
I got the cars, the engine from the 300D looks great, it was rebuilt by a master mechanic who taught diesel mechanics. I have a question though, I was looking at the egr set up on the 83 and was wondering if I could simply remove the valve and bolt on a block off plate instead of swapping manifolds. I would also put a block off where the tube goes to the exhaust manifold. I ask because the manifolds are already bolted on with new gaskets and I don't want to mess with them if I don't have to.
This post was last modified: 10-31-2011, 08:33 AM by srbsmartie.

Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!
srbsmartie
10-30-2011, 01:20 PM #4

I got the cars, the engine from the 300D looks great, it was rebuilt by a master mechanic who taught diesel mechanics. I have a question though, I was looking at the egr set up on the 83 and was wondering if I could simply remove the valve and bolt on a block off plate instead of swapping manifolds. I would also put a block off where the tube goes to the exhaust manifold. I ask because the manifolds are already bolted on with new gaskets and I don't want to mess with them if I don't have to.


Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
11-06-2011, 04:19 AM #5
I asked a question about the manifolds on another thread and the answer I got was that the non-egr manoflds are more desireable for that reason, no egr, and that they will flow air better which is why I am going to swap some into my '82 300D whenever Im able to find the time to do so.

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
11-06-2011, 04:19 AM #5

I asked a question about the manifolds on another thread and the answer I got was that the non-egr manoflds are more desireable for that reason, no egr, and that they will flow air better which is why I am going to swap some into my '82 300D whenever Im able to find the time to do so.


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

srbsmartie
Naturally-aspirated

14
12-10-2011, 01:02 AM #6
Wow, it has been a month and I have made a little progress. I got the manifolds and motor mounts swapped over, transmission mated up and the whole assembly slung in the engine bay. Motor mounts bolted down (with much difficulty), speedo cable on and started on the trans mount. Couldn't figure out why the rubber transmission mount was half an inch above the mount bracket. Guess what? The upper oil pan half is sitting right on that big honking chassis stiffener bar thing at the back of the engine compartment. CRAP! Now I have to pull it all out and swap the pans then put it back again. Sure would be nice to have an over head hoist and load leveler, it rather sucks to do with a worn out cherry picker that doesn't even have a swiveling hook.

Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!
srbsmartie
12-10-2011, 01:02 AM #6

Wow, it has been a month and I have made a little progress. I got the manifolds and motor mounts swapped over, transmission mated up and the whole assembly slung in the engine bay. Motor mounts bolted down (with much difficulty), speedo cable on and started on the trans mount. Couldn't figure out why the rubber transmission mount was half an inch above the mount bracket. Guess what? The upper oil pan half is sitting right on that big honking chassis stiffener bar thing at the back of the engine compartment. CRAP! Now I have to pull it all out and swap the pans then put it back again. Sure would be nice to have an over head hoist and load leveler, it rather sucks to do with a worn out cherry picker that doesn't even have a swiveling hook.


Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!

srbsmartie
Naturally-aspirated

14
12-11-2011, 06:12 PM #7
Here is a short list of what I had to swap over for this project in case someone else needs to know.
Intake and exhaust manifolds
upper oil pan half
throttle linkages
air cleaner assembly
The list is short because this is such a simple swap. If I had swapped the oil pan halves while the '83 engine was on the bench then I would have been done already. I saw that they were different because the '83 has an extra drain tube going into the oil pan. I in my haste to get it done figured that I could just create a cap from the old tube and call it good. That might have been fine if it was going back into a W123 chassis, but the W116 chassis has a cross member behind the engine cradle that the oil pan hits. Guess I won't be doing that again, if it looks different swap it!

Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!
srbsmartie
12-11-2011, 06:12 PM #7

Here is a short list of what I had to swap over for this project in case someone else needs to know.
Intake and exhaust manifolds
upper oil pan half
throttle linkages
air cleaner assembly
The list is short because this is such a simple swap. If I had swapped the oil pan halves while the '83 engine was on the bench then I would have been done already. I saw that they were different because the '83 has an extra drain tube going into the oil pan. I in my haste to get it done figured that I could just create a cap from the old tube and call it good. That might have been fine if it was going back into a W123 chassis, but the W116 chassis has a cross member behind the engine cradle that the oil pan hits. Guess I won't be doing that again, if it looks different swap it!


Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!

srbsmartie
Naturally-aspirated

14
12-15-2011, 06:47 PM #8
AAARRRGGG!! Does the bad stuff ever stop?! I got the engine out and blocked up, pulled all the oil pan bolts out except for the last 2 at the very back of the block. They are recessed into the pan so I had to use a long shaft hex key to get to them. The problem is that the only ones I have have the "ball end" on the long part, so when I put the twist to it, it snapped off the ball end in the bolt. Apparently the previous owner used gorilla torque on those 2 bolts because both bolts now have snapped off hex keys in them. I tried to drill the keys out of the bolt but the material is too hard for the drill bits I have. My next step is to try and drill out the recess large enough to get my bolt grip easy out on the bolts.
This mess is getting old! Oh well, if it weren't for the hard times we wouldn't appreciate the good times...right?...right?...anyone?
Let the fun continue!!

Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!
srbsmartie
12-15-2011, 06:47 PM #8

AAARRRGGG!! Does the bad stuff ever stop?! I got the engine out and blocked up, pulled all the oil pan bolts out except for the last 2 at the very back of the block. They are recessed into the pan so I had to use a long shaft hex key to get to them. The problem is that the only ones I have have the "ball end" on the long part, so when I put the twist to it, it snapped off the ball end in the bolt. Apparently the previous owner used gorilla torque on those 2 bolts because both bolts now have snapped off hex keys in them. I tried to drill the keys out of the bolt but the material is too hard for the drill bits I have. My next step is to try and drill out the recess large enough to get my bolt grip easy out on the bolts.
This mess is getting old! Oh well, if it weren't for the hard times we wouldn't appreciate the good times...right?...right?...anyone?
Let the fun continue!!


Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!

larsalan
Superturbo

1,272
12-15-2011, 07:08 PM #9
I snapped some of those oil pan bolts off. Was turned upsidedown in my driveway and ended up tightening them instead of loosening. Doh, drilled them out and screwed some sae steel bolts into that aluminum casting.

Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
larsalan
12-15-2011, 07:08 PM #9

I snapped some of those oil pan bolts off. Was turned upsidedown in my driveway and ended up tightening them instead of loosening. Doh, drilled them out and screwed some sae steel bolts into that aluminum casting.


Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'

willbhere4u
Six in a row make her go!

2,507
12-15-2011, 11:08 PM #10
The ball headed allen keys suck for just that reason! been there done that

Try heating the bolts up with a mini torch when you finally get something that will grab it that should help loosen it up a bit

1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-15-2011, 11:08 PM #10

The ball headed allen keys suck for just that reason! been there done that

Try heating the bolts up with a mini torch when you finally get something that will grab it that should help loosen it up a bit


1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running

srbsmartie
Naturally-aspirated

14
12-19-2011, 10:40 AM #11
Woo Hoo! Progress again! I got the pans swapped and the engine and trans back in the car. The mounts are all bolted in, it's amazing how the correct parts make things go together nicely. Hope to get all the hoses, lines and wiring hooked up today and maybe even get it running. The flex section of the down pipe split all the way around so that has to be replaced, but that won't keep it from running so it can wait.

Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!
srbsmartie
12-19-2011, 10:40 AM #11

Woo Hoo! Progress again! I got the pans swapped and the engine and trans back in the car. The mounts are all bolted in, it's amazing how the correct parts make things go together nicely. Hope to get all the hoses, lines and wiring hooked up today and maybe even get it running. The flex section of the down pipe split all the way around so that has to be replaced, but that won't keep it from running so it can wait.


Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!

iheartboost
Holset

422
12-19-2011, 11:14 AM #12
good to hear man hope it gets running today!

1998 E300TD 7.5mm pump and hx35 to come!
00 Mustang gt drift car

iheartboost
12-19-2011, 11:14 AM #12

good to hear man hope it gets running today!


1998 E300TD 7.5mm pump and hx35 to come!
00 Mustang gt drift car

srbsmartie
Naturally-aspirated

14
12-23-2011, 05:08 PM #13
Worked on the car today and got everything except the exhaust back together. Now I am having another problem, there doesn't appear to be any power getting to the starter. I swapped the starter with a spare; no change. I swapped the cable from battery/power distro box thing to starter; no change. I even pushed on the transmission shifter to make sure it was all the way in park, still no change. I know the battery is not too good so I had a jump box hooked up to it as well and still no change. I don't even get a click from the solenoid when I turn the key. Does anyone have any advice for me as to what to try next?

Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!
srbsmartie
12-23-2011, 05:08 PM #13

Worked on the car today and got everything except the exhaust back together. Now I am having another problem, there doesn't appear to be any power getting to the starter. I swapped the starter with a spare; no change. I swapped the cable from battery/power distro box thing to starter; no change. I even pushed on the transmission shifter to make sure it was all the way in park, still no change. I know the battery is not too good so I had a jump box hooked up to it as well and still no change. I don't even get a click from the solenoid when I turn the key. Does anyone have any advice for me as to what to try next?


Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!

led-panzer
Holset

541
12-24-2011, 11:31 AM #14
Did you try starting it in neutral? Could be the neutral safety switch. I have to start mine in neutral every day lol

1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake
led-panzer
12-24-2011, 11:31 AM #14

Did you try starting it in neutral? Could be the neutral safety switch. I have to start mine in neutral every day lol


1984 300D 4-speed ~200,000 miles
7.5mm M-pump, GT3582 turbo, F-Tune Performance intake/exhaust manifolds, A/A intercooler, 315 nozzles, Enlarged prechambers, Bosch 044 feed pump, Custom lightweight flywheel with 240mm clutch, Lowered, 17" AMG rims - 300 hp OM617 project
1985 300D 280,000 miles RIP
2001 F350 7.3 DP tuner, 4"exhaust, S&B intake

srbsmartie
Naturally-aspirated

14
12-24-2011, 08:31 PM #15
Yep, I tried that this morning. I also put the trans in park from under the car just to make sure it was positively engaged. I am going to check all the wiring next to make sure there isn't corrosion somewhere along the way. Don't remember if I mentioned this but the car had been sitting in a driveway for 2 years before I got hold of it. Something else worth mentioning when I had the jump box attached, after I tried the key and it didn't work, when I returned to the engine compartment I heard whirring sound coming from passenger side firewall area. Is there a vacuum pump over there or something? And before someone suggests I look in a manual, I don't have one...I have 2 for the 123 chassis diesels, but none for the 116 diesels. By the way this is not my car just one that I am working on for a lady from my church.

Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!
srbsmartie
12-24-2011, 08:31 PM #15

Yep, I tried that this morning. I also put the trans in park from under the car just to make sure it was positively engaged. I am going to check all the wiring next to make sure there isn't corrosion somewhere along the way. Don't remember if I mentioned this but the car had been sitting in a driveway for 2 years before I got hold of it. Something else worth mentioning when I had the jump box attached, after I tried the key and it didn't work, when I returned to the engine compartment I heard whirring sound coming from passenger side firewall area. Is there a vacuum pump over there or something? And before someone suggests I look in a manual, I don't have one...I have 2 for the 123 chassis diesels, but none for the 116 diesels. By the way this is not my car just one that I am working on for a lady from my church.


Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!

willbhere4u
Six in a row make her go!

2,507
12-24-2011, 09:20 PM #16
there are electric motors in the heater valve on the passenger side firewall that huge thing with all of the heater hoses running to it.

That makes noise when powered up

1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
12-24-2011, 09:20 PM #16

there are electric motors in the heater valve on the passenger side firewall that huge thing with all of the heater hoses running to it.

That makes noise when powered up


1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running

srbsmartie
Naturally-aspirated

14
12-30-2011, 11:27 PM #17
It's ALLIIIVVVEEE!!! Well, almost. I got it to spin over but didn't fire up. I have a fuel leak somewhere around the IP. Also I have a problem with the ignition switch apparently, the key goes in fine, positions 1 and 2 work as advertised, but I don't get so much as a click from the starter solenoid when I turn it to start. I have been jumping 12 volts straight to the solenoid to get it to spin. I have checked all the fuses that I can find and have checked the wiring in the engine compartment for corrosion and found none.
Am I missing something that anyone can think of?

Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!
srbsmartie
12-30-2011, 11:27 PM #17

It's ALLIIIVVVEEE!!! Well, almost. I got it to spin over but didn't fire up. I have a fuel leak somewhere around the IP. Also I have a problem with the ignition switch apparently, the key goes in fine, positions 1 and 2 work as advertised, but I don't get so much as a click from the starter solenoid when I turn it to start. I have been jumping 12 volts straight to the solenoid to get it to spin. I have checked all the fuses that I can find and have checked the wiring in the engine compartment for corrosion and found none.
Am I missing something that anyone can think of?


Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!

srbsmartie
Naturally-aspirated

14
01-06-2012, 03:32 PM #18
It runs!!! Now if it would only start with the key.
After many many tries to start to no avail, I did what I never wanted to do...I used a teensy little spray of starting fluid and it finally fired up and ran. Hooray!
It did not have a leak at the IP, but the primary filter housing was leaking from the filter holding bolt. I swapped out the housing with a spare and that took care of that.
I still have the problem of the key not working in start position, something I noticed though was that with the key in run, the tachometer jumps all over the place. While this is going on I hear what sounds like a solenoid or switch clicking from the glovebox area (could also be the passenger footwell). I am thinking there is a connection between these 2 problems so I will be checking wiring diagrams to see how they are related. In the mean time, does anyone know off hand if there is a starter lockout switch/sensor that keeps the starter from getting power while the engine is running? (other than the reverse light/starter lockout on the transmission)
Forgot to add, I bypassed the switch over valve so now there a direct connection from manifold to ALDA.
This post was last modified: 01-07-2012, 12:35 AM by srbsmartie.

Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!
srbsmartie
01-06-2012, 03:32 PM #18

It runs!!! Now if it would only start with the key.
After many many tries to start to no avail, I did what I never wanted to do...I used a teensy little spray of starting fluid and it finally fired up and ran. Hooray!
It did not have a leak at the IP, but the primary filter housing was leaking from the filter holding bolt. I swapped out the housing with a spare and that took care of that.
I still have the problem of the key not working in start position, something I noticed though was that with the key in run, the tachometer jumps all over the place. While this is going on I hear what sounds like a solenoid or switch clicking from the glovebox area (could also be the passenger footwell). I am thinking there is a connection between these 2 problems so I will be checking wiring diagrams to see how they are related. In the mean time, does anyone know off hand if there is a starter lockout switch/sensor that keeps the starter from getting power while the engine is running? (other than the reverse light/starter lockout on the transmission)
Forgot to add, I bypassed the switch over valve so now there a direct connection from manifold to ALDA.


Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!

srbsmartie
Naturally-aspirated

14
05-27-2012, 09:25 PM #19
UPDATE
I'm a big dummy...the reason I couldn't get it to start with the key was because I had the electrical plug on the neutral safety switch installed incorrectly. Somehow I got it installed with only 3 of the 4 contacts touching. Fixed that and now it works like it's supposed to. One of the crush washers under the delivery valves was leaking so that didn't help starting either. Now I just have to get the exhaust put back on (had to replace the flex joint) and clean it all up. This thing has taken way too long to fix, thank goodness it's almost over. Smile

Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!
srbsmartie
05-27-2012, 09:25 PM #19

UPDATE
I'm a big dummy...the reason I couldn't get it to start with the key was because I had the electrical plug on the neutral safety switch installed incorrectly. Somehow I got it installed with only 3 of the 4 contacts touching. Fixed that and now it works like it's supposed to. One of the crush washers under the delivery valves was leaking so that didn't help starting either. Now I just have to get the exhaust put back on (had to replace the flex joint) and clean it all up. This thing has taken way too long to fix, thank goodness it's almost over. Smile


Craig
"Mighty Smart"-2008 smart fortwo (the littlest Mercedes Big Grin )
2002 Chevy Astro- really needs an STD!

 
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