Hot '84 300 SD (OM617) And a unplugged sensor
Hot '84 300 SD (OM617) And a unplugged sensor
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[/img]As you can see the unplugged wire is resting on top of the valve cover.
Don't be hattin' on my stock air filter
'84 300 SD w126 Race Car
'86 190E 2.3 w201 Daily Driver
'85 500 SEL w126 Scraped
'92 1.6 Geo Storm Totaled by a Uninsured Driver
serverman777
11-14-2011, 05:16 PM #1I brought my 300 SD (om617) with a unplugged sensor that connects to the top of the Thermostat housing (See Pics Below). Looks to be come kinda sensor or something. The wire looks pretty jacked up. All cracked and stuff. Anybody knows what that wire goes to? My car sits about 100c degrees on that dash gauge. I know this isn't good. I think it would be the thermostat that would be causing this. I can't afforded a new one ($40+housing gasket). Would it be possible just to clean my thermostat with something?
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As you can see the unplugged wire is resting on top of the valve cover.
Don't be hattin' on my stock air filter
'84 300 SD w126 Race Car
'86 190E 2.3 w201 Daily Driver
'85 500 SEL w126 Scraped
'92 1.6 Geo Storm Totaled by a Uninsured Driver
That sensor (Switch) is for the hvac system. If you have it on heat, it will not blow cold air if the engine isn't warm. The switch will allow hot air when engine reaches 40°c
P.S. every one I have seen has been cracked to all hell
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
11-14-2011, 05:26 PM #2WTF are you doing with the stock filter setup!!?!?!?!??!?!?!? haha
That sensor (Switch) is for the hvac system. If you have it on heat, it will not blow cold air if the engine isn't warm. The switch will allow hot air when engine reaches 40°c
P.S. every one I have seen has been cracked to all hell
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
I forgot what that sensor was for, possibly for the climate control heat. The gauge sensor is by the glow plugs.
One trick you can do to see if its the thermostat is to remove it. Course if your problem is elsewhere and really bad it might heat up even more, but if the thermostat is bad the temp would be lower.
Have you checked your fan clutch?
The wire is unrelated, and the thermostat probably is unrelated as well.
I forgot what that sensor was for, possibly for the climate control heat. The gauge sensor is by the glow plugs.
One trick you can do to see if its the thermostat is to remove it. Course if your problem is elsewhere and really bad it might heat up even more, but if the thermostat is bad the temp would be lower.
Have you checked your fan clutch?
'84 300 SD w126 Race Car
'86 190E 2.3 w201 Daily Driver
'85 500 SEL w126 Scraped
'92 1.6 Geo Storm Totaled by a Uninsured Driver
serverman777
11-14-2011, 05:45 PM #4How would I check my fan clutch? (Just seeing if my fan is moving?) And if I remove my thermostat wouldn't my motor not heat up? Explain more please good sir
'84 300 SD w126 Race Car
'86 190E 2.3 w201 Daily Driver
'85 500 SEL w126 Scraped
'92 1.6 Geo Storm Totaled by a Uninsured Driver
Yes normally if you removed the thermostat it wouldn't come up to temp. Mine would take forever to get to 70-80 when I did it. However the thermostat also prevents coolant from being recirculated at high temps (instead forcing it all into the radiator) and I can imagine not having that and also having say a blocked radiator would make things worse.
To check the clutch, run the temp to 100 then pop the hood and see if the fan is roaring loudly. Or shutoff right after and poke the fan to see if the clutch engaged or if its just freewheeling.
Yes normally if you removed the thermostat it wouldn't come up to temp. Mine would take forever to get to 70-80 when I did it. However the thermostat also prevents coolant from being recirculated at high temps (instead forcing it all into the radiator) and I can imagine not having that and also having say a blocked radiator would make things worse.
1998 E300TD 7.5mm pump and hx35 to come!
00 Mustang gt drift car
iheartboost
11-14-2011, 06:39 PM #6that reminds me. i need to ditch the stock filter haha!
1998 E300TD 7.5mm pump and hx35 to come!
00 Mustang gt drift car
'84 300 SD w126 Race Car
'86 190E 2.3 w201 Daily Driver
'85 500 SEL w126 Scraped
'92 1.6 Geo Storm Totaled by a Uninsured Driver
serverman777
11-14-2011, 09:00 PM #7I will check out that fan tomorrow... Thanks for the help.
'84 300 SD w126 Race Car
'86 190E 2.3 w201 Daily Driver
'85 500 SEL w126 Scraped
'92 1.6 Geo Storm Totaled by a Uninsured Driver
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
11-14-2011, 09:10 PM #8Don't poke it while its running!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
'84 300 SD w126 Race Car
'86 190E 2.3 w201 Daily Driver
'85 500 SEL w126 Scraped
'92 1.6 Geo Storm Totaled by a Uninsured Driver
serverman777
11-14-2011, 09:22 PM #9Haha I like my fingers. I might poke it while running, I will just be careful. And remember its not one of those metal fans.
'84 300 SD w126 Race Car
'86 190E 2.3 w201 Daily Driver
'85 500 SEL w126 Scraped
'92 1.6 Geo Storm Totaled by a Uninsured Driver
'84 300 SD w126 Race Car
'86 190E 2.3 w201 Daily Driver
'85 500 SEL w126 Scraped
'92 1.6 Geo Storm Totaled by a Uninsured Driver
serverman777
11-15-2011, 09:47 AM #10Well Seems like the fan is turning. Drove it for a good 30 mins this morning, got to school hoped out and check, and it was doing its thing. My AUX fan on the AC consider isn't turning, could that be a issue? I really only think that should be on when the Air Con is on...
'84 300 SD w126 Race Car
'86 190E 2.3 w201 Daily Driver
'85 500 SEL w126 Scraped
'92 1.6 Geo Storm Totaled by a Uninsured Driver
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
11-15-2011, 05:00 PM #11hahahah Had a friend poke the metal mech fan on my Elco once lol.... lots of blood. If the A/C switch on the receiver drier gets hot enough it will turn the aux fan on, or you could unplug it and short the pins together to turn it on.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
'84 300 SD w126 Race Car
'86 190E 2.3 w201 Daily Driver
'85 500 SEL w126 Scraped
'92 1.6 Geo Storm Totaled by a Uninsured Driver
serverman777
11-15-2011, 05:49 PM #12Ok, what should I do next since its not my fan... I can't afford a new thermostat right now
'84 300 SD w126 Race Car
'86 190E 2.3 w201 Daily Driver
'85 500 SEL w126 Scraped
'92 1.6 Geo Storm Totaled by a Uninsured Driver
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
11-16-2011, 12:37 AM #13I have a question about the switch, does anybody know if it is normally open or normally closed? The reason I ask is because when my glow plug relay stopped working I just replaced it with a ford started solenoid with a push button inside the cab, but I would like to replace the button with an on-off-on toggle switch so I dont have to hold it in. I would like one "on" position to power the plugs until turned off, and the other "on" to power them until the car is warm and then power off by itself
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I would stick with the push button. If the toggle switch gets left in the on position for any reason/accident then you'll have burned up/melted plugs.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
11-16-2011, 07:40 PM #15I think I might try to get a timer or something to hook it up to
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
SpecialDelivery
11-16-2012, 09:10 PM #17does anyone know what the one on the passenger side of the block is for? i'm sure it's supposed to be plugged into something!
http://imageshack.us/a/img4/1138/manifol...olants.jpg
(11-16-2012, 09:10 PM)SpecialDelivery does anyone know what the one on the passenger side of the block is for? i'm sure it's supposed to be plugged into something!
-1982 300SD, found out she has an '85 Engine, unknown mileage, redoing the top end and chain, head has been ported and polished, non EGR manifolds / non ARV turbo
-1982 300D, too many issues to list.
-Alt Fuel Buff
-Founder www.SWFLBenzCLub.com
SpecialDelivery
11-21-2012, 12:51 PM #18n/w I found out it's the block heater! :x
http://imageshack.us/a/img4/1138/manifol...olants.jpg
(11-16-2012, 09:10 PM)SpecialDelivery does anyone know what the one on the passenger side of the block is for? i'm sure it's supposed to be plugged into something!
-1982 300SD, found out she has an '85 Engine, unknown mileage, redoing the top end and chain, head has been ported and polished, non EGR manifolds / non ARV turbo
-1982 300D, too many issues to list.
-Alt Fuel Buff
-Founder www.SWFLBenzCLub.com
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