w201 om603
w201 om603
But when i mounted the radiator and filled it with water after i changed the thermostat. I cant get the radiator all warm. I dont use an AUX water pump on this car.. should I? if i floor the throttle for about 5-10 secounds the radiator is getting kind of hot all over... but I'm having a hard time guessing its the waterpump.. I think it's something else.. what do you think?
My panel say's it's around 100c
Hello guys, took my w201 to the garage again and did some work today.
But when i mounted the radiator and filled it with water after i changed the thermostat. I cant get the radiator all warm. I dont use an AUX water pump on this car.. should I? if i floor the throttle for about 5-10 secounds the radiator is getting kind of hot all over... but I'm having a hard time guessing its the waterpump.. I think it's something else.. what do you think?
My panel say's it's around 100c
(03-10-2012, 06:16 PM)aaa Thermostat stuck open? What temperatures are you reading?
dont think so. But the lower radiator hose is ice cold. and the top one is rather hot. the gauge says about 100degrees celcius. The waterpump would be an obvious thing to think. But i dont know.. Maybe thinking I need the AUX pump or something....??
(03-10-2012, 06:16 PM)aaa Thermostat stuck open? What temperatures are you reading?
dont think so. But the lower radiator hose is ice cold. and the top one is rather hot. the gauge says about 100degrees celcius. The waterpump would be an obvious thing to think. But i dont know.. Maybe thinking I need the AUX pump or something....??
(03-11-2012, 10:20 AM)barrote or a radiator! check air inside and radiator flows well enough, 100ºC is to hot it should be 80ºC, check thermostatic valve in the right position, and if it is for 80ºC.
The thermostat is 85*c
Its brand new. How can you eliminate air fast? I use to unscrew one of the temp sensors where the water comes out at top of the engine :-)
But I'm using a 200D radiator because i dont have room for the om603 radiator. But i guess that doesnt matter since I'm using the original Fan and it will keep the water at the right temp for now.. Do you guys think i need the AUX pump to have adequate flow?? :S
(03-10-2012, 11:34 PM)winmutt Did you fill with heat on drive around and top off?
I'm sorry, I didnt catch that..
(03-11-2012, 10:20 AM)barrote or a radiator! check air inside and radiator flows well enough, 100ºC is to hot it should be 80ºC, check thermostatic valve in the right position, and if it is for 80ºC.
The thermostat is 85*c
Its brand new. How can you eliminate air fast? I use to unscrew one of the temp sensors where the water comes out at top of the engine :-)
But I'm using a 200D radiator because i dont have room for the om603 radiator. But i guess that doesnt matter since I'm using the original Fan and it will keep the water at the right temp for now.. Do you guys think i need the AUX pump to have adequate flow?? :S
(03-10-2012, 11:34 PM)winmutt Did you fill with heat on drive around and top off?
I'm sorry, I didnt catch that..
The aux pump has nothing to do with it, that is for climate control only.
Sounds like air in the system. I've experienced your symptoms every time I fill up coolant, my theory is an air bubble near the thermostat keeps it from opening. Sometimes I drive it up and down a hill, or sometimes it disappears on its own when left alone for a few days.
The aux pump has nothing to do with it, that is for climate control only.
(03-11-2012, 04:49 PM)aaa Sounds like air in the system. I've experienced your symptoms every time I fill up coolant, my theory is an air bubble near the thermostat keeps it from opening. Sometimes I drive it up and down a hill, or sometimes it disappears on its own when left alone for a few days.
The aux pump has nothing to do with it, that is for climate control only.
F*ck I just ordered one from germany -.- 269NOK with shipping (called mercedes and asked for price, they say 4400NOK new.. Haha, norway is insane!)
do you have a trick to get the bubbles out??
(03-11-2012, 04:49 PM)aaa Sounds like air in the system. I've experienced your symptoms every time I fill up coolant, my theory is an air bubble near the thermostat keeps it from opening. Sometimes I drive it up and down a hill, or sometimes it disappears on its own when left alone for a few days.
The aux pump has nothing to do with it, that is for climate control only.
F*ck I just ordered one from germany -.- 269NOK with shipping (called mercedes and asked for price, they say 4400NOK new.. Haha, norway is insane!)
do you have a trick to get the bubbles out??
I think I'm just ordering a new water pump.... :-<
I've just been outside the house, i put the merc up the little hill to our house, and used my big jack from the garage, bet i had it over 1meter off the ground. Still the circulation sucks and its around 100dg C.
I think I'm just ordering a new water pump.... :-<
There was a bleed-point on one of the pipes near the fuel-filter as I recall....
Tom's idea of the 1mm hole in the stat is a good one to clear airlocks too....
Woth checking the small pipe that goes from the rad to the expansion-tank,--It can block....
![[Image: 300TDnoplate.jpg]](http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z128/alastairhcii/300TDnoplate.jpg)
Alastair E
03-13-2012, 05:32 AM #11My W201/OM.602 was a pain to get all the air out....
There was a bleed-point on one of the pipes near the fuel-filter as I recall....
Tom's idea of the 1mm hole in the stat is a good one to clear airlocks too....
Woth checking the small pipe that goes from the rad to the expansion-tank,--It can block....
Winmutt was saying when you fill the rad you should always have the heat on in the car to help move the coolant it helps to remove air pockets in the system!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
03-13-2012, 09:26 AM #13What was your problem?
Winmutt was saying when you fill the rad you should always have the heat on in the car to help move the coolant it helps to remove air pockets in the system!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(03-13-2012, 09:26 AM)willbhere4u What was your problem?
Winmutt was saying when you fill the rad you should always have the heat on in the car to help move the coolant it helps to remove air pockets in the system!
The problem is that I'm using a 200D 190D radiator, and the om603 i have requires the 300D radiator with 3 "intakes" the 200D only has 2... But I'm not sure how to connect all the hoses now.. I thought I did it right...
Wondering if someone can take 2-4 pictures of how the radiator is connected to the engine :-< hehe.. :-)
(03-13-2012, 09:26 AM)willbhere4u What was your problem?
Winmutt was saying when you fill the rad you should always have the heat on in the car to help move the coolant it helps to remove air pockets in the system!
The problem is that I'm using a 200D 190D radiator, and the om603 i have requires the 300D radiator with 3 "intakes" the 200D only has 2... But I'm not sure how to connect all the hoses now.. I thought I did it right...
Wondering if someone can take 2-4 pictures of how the radiator is connected to the engine :-< hehe.. :-)
You'd be better off using a w201 2.5TD radiator, Stateside it is over $350 though, the 2.6 radiator is close but the bottom inlet is on the other side of radiator but pointing up. I don't think the 2.0D rad fits in the core support so it must be pretty tight in the engine bay.
Does the 2.5 radiator fit in the same position as the 2.6, within the core support? From the photos it looks like it does, but it is good to ask I think.
So, for fitting a 603 or 606 into a w201, the optimal radiator to use is the 2.5 then?
(03-14-2012, 07:31 AM)Kozuka You'd be better off using a w201 2.5TD radiator, Stateside it is over $350 though, the 2.6 radiator is close but the bottom inlet is on the other side of radiator but pointing up. I don't think the 2.0D rad fits in the core support so it must be pretty tight in the engine bay.
That is a really good point, thanks Kozuka! With what little room there is in a w201, I wonder if you could even (cleanly or not) make hoses to utilize the 2.6 radiator at all?
Does the 2.5 radiator fit in the same position as the 2.6, within the core support? From the photos it looks like it does, but it is good to ask I think.
So, for fitting a 603 or 606 into a w201, the optimal radiator to use is the 2.5 then?
(03-14-2012, 07:31 AM)Kozuka You'd be better off using a w201 2.5TD radiator, Stateside it is over $350 though, the 2.6 radiator is close but the bottom inlet is on the other side of radiator but pointing up. I don't think the 2.0D rad fits in the core support so it must be pretty tight in the engine bay.
![[Image: p3140085y.jpg]](http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/1731/p3140085y.jpg)
![[Image: p3140086.jpg]](http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/6097/p3140086.jpg)
changed the waterpump and thermostat by now.
The lower radiator hose is cold, the upper is hot, the gauge shows about 100degrees celcius..
If i stop the original fan with my fingers and hold it still, it takes about 3minutes++ then the lower hose starts getting hotter SLOWLY. I feel like there is NO flow at all....
I'm crying for help right now :-(
( I have modifyed the front end of the car =) 200D radiator fitted, orginial om603 fan fitted =) )
Holy jesus ****.. Did not fix my problem. I'm back to my 200D.. Lost a little faith in my mechanic guru now..
changed the waterpump and thermostat by now.
The lower radiator hose is cold, the upper is hot, the gauge shows about 100degrees celcius..
If i stop the original fan with my fingers and hold it still, it takes about 3minutes++ then the lower hose starts getting hotter SLOWLY. I feel like there is NO flow at all....
I'm crying for help right now :-(
( I have modifyed the front end of the car =) 200D radiator fitted, orginial om603 fan fitted =) )
(03-15-2012, 04:52 PM)aaa Which water pump did you change?
"The" water pump, on the belt drive.
I think I'm going to clean the whole system tomorrow with citric acid...
hopefully this will work! :-D tired of it **** up...
(03-15-2012, 06:27 PM)winmutt Have you verified the 100C temp with an ohm meter and IR gun?
Attached is the flow diagram.
Thanks alot! No I have not. I feel like its no use measuring any temperature before my flow peoblem is solved.... Sitting in my car right now. Im so tired of it....!
Jesus.. Haha
And now it leaks water out of the heater at drivers side foot heat.. Jesus
(03-15-2012, 06:27 PM)winmutt Have you verified the 100C temp with an ohm meter and IR gun?
Attached is the flow diagram.
Thanks alot! No I have not. I feel like its no use measuring any temperature before my flow peoblem is solved.... Sitting in my car right now. Im so tired of it....!
Jesus.. Haha
And now it leaks water out of the heater at drivers side foot heat.. Jesus
But im having a hard time this will fix my issue... can anyone else try to interpite the email? :-)
Hi Christian
You might be having an issue with the fuel thermostat:
Here is a link to a picture of the part:
https://mercedessource.com/node/2879
Hope that helps
kaia
ducos sent a message using the contact form at https://mercedessource.com/contact. Hello Sir. I've watched all your youtube videos! Thank you for them! I'm Christian from Norway. I've been having a problem with my om603 engine for a long time.. It seems like it has very little coolant flow, and the temperature spikes up to 100+ degrees celcius.. I have changed the water pump and thermostat, and cleaned the system with citric acid... I am running out of idea's and I saw all your videos and you look like the diesel tech that could know the solution... Thanks, Christian, Norway. "
Hi again! Got an answer on a email i sendt to a diesel guy!
But im having a hard time this will fix my issue... can anyone else try to interpite the email? :-)
Hi Christian
You might be having an issue with the fuel thermostat:
Here is a link to a picture of the part:
https://mercedessource.com/node/2879
Hope that helps
kaia
ducos sent a message using the contact form at https://mercedessource.com/contact. Hello Sir. I've watched all your youtube videos! Thank you for them! I'm Christian from Norway. I've been having a problem with my om603 engine for a long time.. It seems like it has very little coolant flow, and the temperature spikes up to 100+ degrees celcius.. I have changed the water pump and thermostat, and cleaned the system with citric acid... I am running out of idea's and I saw all your videos and you look like the diesel tech that could know the solution... Thanks, Christian, Norway. "
The fuel thermostat is slightly related to the cooling system. But it has nothing to do with your problem for two reasons.
First the thermostat itself (pictured) has nothing to do with coolant, instead there is an additional fuel line loop that the thermostat routes fuel to, going to one of the heater "hoses", actually more of a metal coolant pipe intertwined with metal fuel lines. Second this heater hose/pipe is just an empty pipe used for the heater. It is not going to stop the cooling system from working since it's not the main part of the coolant circuit.
As for now, I'd try removing the main thermostat (not the fuel one), since it wouldn't be the first time multiple thermostats in a row turned out bad. And the radiator isn't clogged, is it? Not sure what the best way to test that would be.
Haha they linked one of their products.
The fuel thermostat is slightly related to the cooling system. But it has nothing to do with your problem for two reasons.
First the thermostat itself (pictured) has nothing to do with coolant, instead there is an additional fuel line loop that the thermostat routes fuel to, going to one of the heater "hoses", actually more of a metal coolant pipe intertwined with metal fuel lines. Second this heater hose/pipe is just an empty pipe used for the heater. It is not going to stop the cooling system from working since it's not the main part of the coolant circuit.
As for now, I'd try removing the main thermostat (not the fuel one), since it wouldn't be the first time multiple thermostats in a row turned out bad. And the radiator isn't clogged, is it? Not sure what the best way to test that would be.
They make a vacuum filler system for cooling systems that pulls a vacuum on the cooling system and then it auto fills by sucking in the coolant. It's really cool and never leaves any air pockets. I really need to get one for my self
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
03-20-2012, 09:56 AM #27Still sounds like an air pocket to me! I Just had this problem with a Subaru this weekend. it took an hour to get all of the air out same thing no circulation and kept getting hot
They make a vacuum filler system for cooling systems that pulls a vacuum on the cooling system and then it auto fills by sucking in the coolant. It's really cool and never leaves any air pockets. I really need to get one for my self
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(03-19-2012, 05:33 PM)aaa Haha they linked one of their products.
The fuel thermostat is slightly related to the cooling system. But it has nothing to do with your problem for two reasons.
First the thermostat itself (pictured) has nothing to do with coolant, instead there is an additional fuel line loop that the thermostat routes fuel to, going to one of the heater "hoses", actually more of a metal coolant pipe intertwined with metal fuel lines. Second this heater hose/pipe is just an empty pipe used for the heater. It is not going to stop the cooling system from working since it's not the main part of the coolant circuit.
As for now, I'd try removing the main thermostat (not the fuel one), since it wouldn't be the first time multiple thermostats in a row turned out bad. And the radiator isn't clogged, is it? Not sure what the best way to test that would be.
Thanks for reply.
Ive cleaned the clooling system with ecitric acid(dont know if i spelled that right) So i dont think thats the problem :-<
But maybe I'll take out the thermostat and try that!
I've done it before... but that was before I changed the waterpump...
Any more good idea's?? :- )
(03-19-2012, 05:33 PM)aaa Haha they linked one of their products.
The fuel thermostat is slightly related to the cooling system. But it has nothing to do with your problem for two reasons.
First the thermostat itself (pictured) has nothing to do with coolant, instead there is an additional fuel line loop that the thermostat routes fuel to, going to one of the heater "hoses", actually more of a metal coolant pipe intertwined with metal fuel lines. Second this heater hose/pipe is just an empty pipe used for the heater. It is not going to stop the cooling system from working since it's not the main part of the coolant circuit.
As for now, I'd try removing the main thermostat (not the fuel one), since it wouldn't be the first time multiple thermostats in a row turned out bad. And the radiator isn't clogged, is it? Not sure what the best way to test that would be.
Thanks for reply.
Ive cleaned the clooling system with ecitric acid(dont know if i spelled that right) So i dont think thats the problem :-<
But maybe I'll take out the thermostat and try that!
I've done it before... but that was before I changed the waterpump...
Any more good idea's?? :- )
Well where are you with it now? I'd only look at the radiator again after removing the other potential obstruction (the thermostat). With that out of the way and if the problem's still there, I'd do something crazy like yoink the upper radiator hose off and see if coolant gets pumped out. Or maybe the other way around, yank the lower radiator hose and block it off, to see if the system will drain out of the lower radiator opening.
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
03-22-2012, 02:09 PM #33I'm a little late on this one, but why not use vacuum to suck the air out when flushing and refilling, etc. In theory it sounds like it would work pretty well, all you would need is an extra radiator cap to sacrifice by drilling a hole and then sticking a hose into it, going to a vacuum pump, or I bet with a tee and a small valve one could even use the vacuum system in the car to to avoid having to keep making vacuum with a hand pump
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
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