ANYBODY IN L.A.? Help with timing the injection pump
ANYBODY IN L.A.? Help with timing the injection pump
I'm in trouble...today I removed the injection pump in order to replace the gasket between the pump and the engine block (was leaking oil really bad).
I put the pump back in the same position without moving the crankshaft or the pump shaft and as you guys warned me, the timing went to hell. Engine stars but runs bad, doesn't keep the idle and smokes.
No matter how much I looked I couldn't figure out how to do the timing properly - I guess my mechanic skills kind of suck.
In conclusion: I NEED HELP!
Is there any kind soul on this forum who knows how to do this and lives in or near Los Angeles?
If you are that person I would be willing to pay for your time and effort if you can help me. I can meet you at the garage where the car is (Santa Fe Springs / Norwalk area). You don't need to bring any tools, I have everything you need. And if you also know how to "trick" the injection pump in order to get a little more power out of the engine, I would be willing to pay for that too.
Forgot to mention, the engine is a '79 OM617 turbo.
If any of you lives in the area and is willing to help please PM me with your contact info and the best time to reach you.
Thank you,
Andy
Hello everyone,
I'm in trouble...today I removed the injection pump in order to replace the gasket between the pump and the engine block (was leaking oil really bad).
I put the pump back in the same position without moving the crankshaft or the pump shaft and as you guys warned me, the timing went to hell. Engine stars but runs bad, doesn't keep the idle and smokes.
No matter how much I looked I couldn't figure out how to do the timing properly - I guess my mechanic skills kind of suck.
In conclusion: I NEED HELP!
Is there any kind soul on this forum who knows how to do this and lives in or near Los Angeles?
If you are that person I would be willing to pay for your time and effort if you can help me. I can meet you at the garage where the car is (Santa Fe Springs / Norwalk area). You don't need to bring any tools, I have everything you need. And if you also know how to "trick" the injection pump in order to get a little more power out of the engine, I would be willing to pay for that too.
Forgot to mention, the engine is a '79 OM617 turbo.
If any of you lives in the area and is willing to help please PM me with your contact info and the best time to reach you.
Thank you,
Andy
Before you take the pump out again have the engine at TDC and make sure the timing marks are the pump are aligned before you reinstall. The gear on the IP has groove in it that should match a dimple on the pump housing.
We had the same problem happen to us. It's not your mechanical skills. These pumps are fussy.
Before you take the pump out again have the engine at TDC and make sure the timing marks are the pump are aligned before you reinstall. The gear on the IP has groove in it that should match a dimple on the pump housing.
Got pretty fast at taking it in and out, about 45min.
Keep us posted and you'll surely be successful.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
I had taken mine in and out about 10 times in the course of 24hrs before I got it back in there on the right tooth.
Got pretty fast at taking it in and out, about 45min.
Keep us posted and you'll surely be successful.
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
(09-17-2012, 10:01 PM)Torkey We had the same problem happen to us. It's not your mechanical skills. These pumps are fussy.
Before you take the pump out again have the engine at TDC and make sure the timing marks are the pump are aligned before you reinstall. The gear on the IP has groove in it that should match a dimple on the pump housing.
What this guy said. Be aware that certain years had a bad run of pumps where the timing mark was off a few degrees. This is covered by the FSM.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(09-17-2012, 10:01 PM)Torkey We had the same problem happen to us. It's not your mechanical skills. These pumps are fussy.
Before you take the pump out again have the engine at TDC and make sure the timing marks are the pump are aligned before you reinstall. The gear on the IP has groove in it that should match a dimple on the pump housing.
What this guy said. Be aware that certain years had a bad run of pumps where the timing mark was off a few degrees. This is covered by the FSM.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(09-18-2012, 04:06 AM)larsalan I had taken mine in and out about 10 times in the course of 24hrs before I got it back in there on the right tooth.
Got pretty fast at taking it in and out, about 45min.
Keep us posted and you'll surely be successful.
Thanks for the advice but I don't feel I am up for this task.
Any of you know of any members who live nearby?
(09-18-2012, 04:06 AM)larsalan I had taken mine in and out about 10 times in the course of 24hrs before I got it back in there on the right tooth.
Got pretty fast at taking it in and out, about 45min.
Keep us posted and you'll surely be successful.
Thanks for the advice but I don't feel I am up for this task.
Any of you know of any members who live nearby?
(09-18-2012, 06:20 AM)winmutt(09-17-2012, 10:01 PM)Torkey We had the same problem happen to us. It's not your mechanical skills. These pumps are fussy.
Before you take the pump out again have the engine at TDC and make sure the timing marks are the pump are aligned before you reinstall. The gear on the IP has groove in it that should match a dimple on the pump housing.
What this guy said. Be aware that certain years had a bad run of pumps where the timing mark was off a few degrees. This is covered by the FSM.
Don't be afraid of the pump timing it's not that complicated, when I pulled my head I was spinning shit left and right. I was able to time the valves and pump just by referencing the factory marks-they're there for a reason.
-Check to make sure you don't have one of the weird pumps.
-On the bench, turn your pump over until it's where it needs to be (either aligned or off by 3 teeth depending on the vintage)
-Remove the valve cover and turn the car engine over by hand until your timing marks on the cam tower are lined up
-Put the pump back on
-Remove the DVs, but not the collars.
-Install your cutoff junkyard injector line.
-Time the SOB
Ingore what I posted before. If it's installed and runs, then you're close.
You can do it a couple ways-the proper or the redneck
The proper involves getting a junk injector line from the yard, and timing it. be sure to remove the delivery valves but NOT the collars. Follow the procedure on PP, it's well written. It's really not that tough once you get it dripping, just remember that the window for the magic 1sec drip is VERY small. Ne patient. If I can do it in a shed, you can do it in sunny LA.
The redneck way involves rotating the pump *slightly* in or out, then testing. You run the risk of detonation and holing a piston/ bending a rod however.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-19-2012, 07:50 AM #6 (09-18-2012, 06:20 AM)winmutt
(09-17-2012, 10:01 PM)Torkey We had the same problem happen to us. It's not your mechanical skills. These pumps are fussy.
Before you take the pump out again have the engine at TDC and make sure the timing marks are the pump are aligned before you reinstall. The gear on the IP has groove in it that should match a dimple on the pump housing.
What this guy said. Be aware that certain years had a bad run of pumps where the timing mark was off a few degrees. This is covered by the FSM.
Don't be afraid of the pump timing it's not that complicated, when I pulled my head I was spinning shit left and right. I was able to time the valves and pump just by referencing the factory marks-they're there for a reason.
-Check to make sure you don't have one of the weird pumps.
-On the bench, turn your pump over until it's where it needs to be (either aligned or off by 3 teeth depending on the vintage)
-Remove the valve cover and turn the car engine over by hand until your timing marks on the cam tower are lined up
-Put the pump back on
-Remove the DVs, but not the collars.
-Install your cutoff junkyard injector line.
-Time the SOB
Ingore what I posted before. If it's installed and runs, then you're close.
You can do it a couple ways-the proper or the redneck
The proper involves getting a junk injector line from the yard, and timing it. be sure to remove the delivery valves but NOT the collars. Follow the procedure on PP, it's well written. It's really not that tough once you get it dripping, just remember that the window for the magic 1sec drip is VERY small. Ne patient. If I can do it in a shed, you can do it in sunny LA.
The redneck way involves rotating the pump *slightly* in or out, then testing. You run the risk of detonation and holing a piston/ bending a rod however.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
The mark you are looking for is the little horizontal lug that snaps into place with the factory pump timing lock. See image. It's of an OM603 pump but the lug I believe looks the same.
![[Image: IP__RIV_tang.jpg]](http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_injection/IP__RIV_tang.jpg)
1984 Mercedes-Benz 300TD Turbo - 260k miles - Daily driver
1982 Yamaha XV920RJ - 9k miles - Currently in pieces
I have valve wrenches and timing tools for rent! PM for details!
Secondaries
09-19-2012, 01:28 PM #7Does your pump have the port on the driver side of it that is plugged with a large hex headed plug? If so, remove it, set your crank bolt to the correct degree marker (not sure of this number, check your manual), loosen the adjustment bolts on the pump, and rotate the pump back and forth until you see the horizontal mark line up with the center of the circle. This might be easier with a swiveling pen mirror.
The mark you are looking for is the little horizontal lug that snaps into place with the factory pump timing lock. See image. It's of an OM603 pump but the lug I believe looks the same.
1984 Mercedes-Benz 300TD Turbo - 260k miles - Daily driver
1982 Yamaha XV920RJ - 9k miles - Currently in pieces
I have valve wrenches and timing tools for rent! PM for details!
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
11-17-2012, 04:40 AM #8did you ever fix this? Ill likely be up there for a day or two for turkey day...
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
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