Blow by
Blow by
12-04-2012, 09:21 AM
#1
OM617.952
~280,000 (unknown if accurate) on engine.
Daily driver, 40 mile commute at 40-55mph.
5w-40 LubroMoly, changed every 5,000 miles.
I'm getting 28mpg on average every tank. Nothing's wrong with the car right now, but I'm just looking to the future.
Is there anything I can do to reduce or correct the blow-by?
This post was last modified: 12-04-2012, 09:32 AM by martureo.
1983 300TD
1984 300D
1995 E300 (sold)
I'm noticing that I've got fumes coming from my oil dipstick tube and blowby from the oil fill cap on the valve cover is worse than it was last year.
OM617.952
~280,000 (unknown if accurate) on engine.
Daily driver, 40 mile commute at 40-55mph.
5w-40 LubroMoly, changed every 5,000 miles.
I'm getting 28mpg on average every tank. Nothing's wrong with the car right now, but I'm just looking to the future.
Is there anything I can do to reduce or correct the blow-by?
1983 300TD
1984 300D
1995 E300 (sold)
12-04-2012, 09:29 AM
#2
If you've got plenty of time, new valve seals can help
Put some MMO in the crank case, and see if anything changes in teh next couple thousand miles
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
12-04-2012, 09:29 AM #2A valve adjustment now, and then again in 500 miles.
If you've got plenty of time, new valve seals can help
Put some MMO in the crank case, and see if anything changes in teh next couple thousand miles
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
12-04-2012, 09:32 AM
#3
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Yup ... valve adjustment X2. I suggest once you get all the bugs worked out, you do it every 6 months. Well worth the $6.00 VC gasket and 45 minutes investment.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
12-04-2012, 10:31 AM
#5
If it runs, and it doesn't burn oil I wouldn't worry too much about it-maybe just do the valve stem seals
This post was last modified: 12-04-2012, 10:33 AM by Simpler=Better.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
12-04-2012, 10:31 AM #5In that case, run marvel mystery oil in the crank case (I think it's 750ml?) and see if that helps. Definitely made a difference in my truck.
If it runs, and it doesn't burn oil I wouldn't worry too much about it-maybe just do the valve stem seals
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
12-04-2012, 02:47 PM
#6
(12-04-2012, 10:31 AM)Simpler=Better ...
If it runs, and it doesn't burn oil I wouldn't worry too much about it-
...
I would say use that synthetic oil. Even at a few $ more I swear it has saved me monies. It is way less likely to burn off than the conventional stuff. And then whatever benefits there are for all the moving metal that is the motor are just gravy.
I get that rotella t6 diesel at advanced auto parts. That's the most reasonable deal in my town.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
(12-04-2012, 10:31 AM)Simpler=Better ...
If it runs, and it doesn't burn oil I wouldn't worry too much about it-
...
I would say use that synthetic oil. Even at a few $ more I swear it has saved me monies. It is way less likely to burn off than the conventional stuff. And then whatever benefits there are for all the moving metal that is the motor are just gravy.
I get that rotella t6 diesel at advanced auto parts. That's the most reasonable deal in my town.
Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
12-04-2012, 02:59 PM
#7
(12-04-2012, 02:47 PM)larsalanAs per the OP I am using full synthetic. I ran Mobil 1 5w40 TDT for a year and for the past two have run 5w40 Lubro Moly (a German full synthetic).(12-04-2012, 10:31 AM)Simpler=Better ...
If it runs, and it doesn't burn oil I wouldn't worry too much about it-
...
I would say use that synthetic oil. Even at a few $ more I swear it has saved me monies. It is way less likely to burn off than the conventional stuff. And then whatever benefits there are for all the moving metal that is the motor are just gravy.
I get that rotella t6 diesel at advanced auto parts. That's the most reasonable deal in my town.
1983 300TD
1984 300D
1995 E300 (sold)
(12-04-2012, 02:47 PM)larsalanAs per the OP I am using full synthetic. I ran Mobil 1 5w40 TDT for a year and for the past two have run 5w40 Lubro Moly (a German full synthetic).(12-04-2012, 10:31 AM)Simpler=Better ...
If it runs, and it doesn't burn oil I wouldn't worry too much about it-
...
I would say use that synthetic oil. Even at a few $ more I swear it has saved me monies. It is way less likely to burn off than the conventional stuff. And then whatever benefits there are for all the moving metal that is the motor are just gravy.
I get that rotella t6 diesel at advanced auto parts. That's the most reasonable deal in my town.
1983 300TD
1984 300D
1995 E300 (sold)
12-04-2012, 03:31 PM
#8
Regarding the motor oil, which Lubro Moly are you running? There are several variations.
.
This post was last modified: 12-04-2012, 03:32 PM by DeliveryValve.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
12-04-2012, 03:31 PM #8If you are running the flat rubber type hose for the crankcase vent, get rid of it and get the original round tube style back in place. That type of hose is a restriction and can cause leaking at the cap and dipstick.
Regarding the motor oil, which Lubro Moly are you running? There are several variations.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
12-04-2012, 03:47 PM
#9
(12-04-2012, 03:31 PM)DeliveryValve If you are running the flat rubber type hose for the crankcase vent, get rid of it and get the original round tube style back in place. That type of hose is a restriction and can cause leaking at the cap and dipstick.I actually went to the flat style because the round style seemed like it leaked more. And I really can't see the flow being restricted much, the cross section is exactly the same.
Regarding the motor oil, which Lubro Moly are you running? There are several variations.
I'm running 5w-40 Synthetic Technology. I used to run the old version which was full synthetic, but nobody sells a full synth Lubro Moly around me anymore. I was thinking about switching to Total Quartz 9000 for a few rounds to see if it's any better.
1983 300TD
1984 300D
1995 E300 (sold)
(12-04-2012, 03:31 PM)DeliveryValve If you are running the flat rubber type hose for the crankcase vent, get rid of it and get the original round tube style back in place. That type of hose is a restriction and can cause leaking at the cap and dipstick.I actually went to the flat style because the round style seemed like it leaked more. And I really can't see the flow being restricted much, the cross section is exactly the same.
Regarding the motor oil, which Lubro Moly are you running? There are several variations.
I'm running 5w-40 Synthetic Technology. I used to run the old version which was full synthetic, but nobody sells a full synth Lubro Moly around me anymore. I was thinking about switching to Total Quartz 9000 for a few rounds to see if it's any better.
1983 300TD
1984 300D
1995 E300 (sold)
12-04-2012, 04:06 PM
#10
Blow-by is a product of gasses seeping past the piston rings. When you get an engine that is high in mileage, blow-by will get worst. The flat hose is fine for a healthy engine, but when blow-by is strong, the flat hose inherent flow restriction is exacerbated.
If the round style was leaking, you just need new rubber ends or make a custom job with a 5/8 inch inner diameter tube.
Oilwise, I think there is a possibility the situation may improve with a change in brand. I'm thinking the oil maybe too thin. You can run it longer to see if it improves. 5000 miles is too short an interval for synthetic. I would run it up to 8,000 miles without oil analysis.
Edit: I stated to run it longer because the oil will thicken through use and possibly allow the rings to seal better.
.
This post was last modified: 12-04-2012, 04:25 PM by DeliveryValve.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
DeliveryValve
12-04-2012, 04:06 PM #10Cross section doesn't mean much. The best flow is from a round tube.
Blow-by is a product of gasses seeping past the piston rings. When you get an engine that is high in mileage, blow-by will get worst. The flat hose is fine for a healthy engine, but when blow-by is strong, the flat hose inherent flow restriction is exacerbated.
If the round style was leaking, you just need new rubber ends or make a custom job with a 5/8 inch inner diameter tube.
Oilwise, I think there is a possibility the situation may improve with a change in brand. I'm thinking the oil maybe too thin. You can run it longer to see if it improves. 5000 miles is too short an interval for synthetic. I would run it up to 8,000 miles without oil analysis.
Edit: I stated to run it longer because the oil will thicken through use and possibly allow the rings to seal better.
.
Gota love Mercedes Diesels!
.
12-04-2012, 04:57 PM
#11
(12-04-2012, 04:06 PM)DeliveryValve Cross section doesn't mean much. The best flow is from a round tube.Cross section is the major determinant in determining pressure.
Blow-by is a product of gasses seeping past the piston rings. When you get an engine that is high in mileage, blow-by will get worst. The flat hose is fine for a healthy engine, but when blow-by is strong, the flat hose inherent flow restriction is exacerbated.
If the round style was leaking, you just need new rubber ends or make a custom job with a 5/8 inch inner diameter tube.
I personally like that there are only two leak points on the flat hose, as opposed to the four on the circular cross sectioned.
Quote:Oilwise, I think there is a possibility the situation may improve with a change in brand. I'm thinking the oil maybe too thin. You can run it longer to see if it improves. 5000 miles is too short an interval for synthetic. I would run it up to 8,000 miles without oil analysis.I could switch back to 15w-40. 5w-40 is beautiful on winter mornings though.
Edit: I stated to run it longer because the oil will thicken through use and possibly allow the rings to seal better.
1983 300TD
1984 300D
1995 E300 (sold)
(12-04-2012, 04:06 PM)DeliveryValve Cross section doesn't mean much. The best flow is from a round tube.Cross section is the major determinant in determining pressure.
Blow-by is a product of gasses seeping past the piston rings. When you get an engine that is high in mileage, blow-by will get worst. The flat hose is fine for a healthy engine, but when blow-by is strong, the flat hose inherent flow restriction is exacerbated.
If the round style was leaking, you just need new rubber ends or make a custom job with a 5/8 inch inner diameter tube.
I personally like that there are only two leak points on the flat hose, as opposed to the four on the circular cross sectioned.
Quote:Oilwise, I think there is a possibility the situation may improve with a change in brand. I'm thinking the oil maybe too thin. You can run it longer to see if it improves. 5000 miles is too short an interval for synthetic. I would run it up to 8,000 miles without oil analysis.I could switch back to 15w-40. 5w-40 is beautiful on winter mornings though.
Edit: I stated to run it longer because the oil will thicken through use and possibly allow the rings to seal better.
1983 300TD
1984 300D
1995 E300 (sold)
12-07-2012, 04:40 AM
#12
http://youtu.be/LPP2P9NcIkM
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
12-07-2012, 04:40 AM #12RUN IT HARD aka give her the Italian tune up. I got a car with a good engine but unknown miles. LOTS of blowby. the valve cover cap was jumping off the valve cover at idle. I ran the piss out of it: 16lbs boost and speeds in excess of 85mph on the freeway (Profile pic) and it all virtually disappeared.
http://youtu.be/LPP2P9NcIkM
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
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