throttle linkage...
throttle linkage...
so I saw a post the other day and realized that my throttle linkage was significantly different than the one in a photo... mine had a big 'wahtoosie' in it (that's pappy speak for the fukker was bent..a like a 155* angle)... so today I went by the ecology auto wrecking and made a hybrid 240/300D linkage and boy what a difference it made to have a throttle that wasnt binding up...
anyway, I took the rod that goes from the firewall bushing to the valve cover (VC) lever from the 300D (which was arrow straight) and took the end piece from the same rod off the 240D and mated them together and to the lever on my VC...
I dunno if the end piece from the 240D was a stock part, but it appeared to be 'cause it had a 2 pronged deal that inserted into 2 holes (w/bushings) in the lever on the VC and as such, allowed me to also get rid of the last bit of auto trans crap on top of the VC...
while I was at it, I also noticed that the linkage on the IP itself (that goes towards the auto trans vac bleedoff) was rubbing against the coolant hose between it and the oil tower and that was causing my throttle to 'stick' a bit and also make it more difficult to push the go pedal down... fixed that as well
anyway, after getting my parts, I went out to my car and threw the stuff together to test out on my way home... awesome is the only thing I can say about it... the car can actually get outta its own way now!
anyway, ill try to get some pics of it tomorrow and upload 'em to more easily describe what I did if anyone else is interested... basically if you did a manual swap and still have any auto trans linkage on top of the VC (like that pesky black box that everyone disconnects vac lines to), you can do something similar and clean that up quite a bit (read: remove it entirely)...
when I bought this car about 2 years ago, it was the fastest one of the examples I drove... it was still slow compared to what I was used to, but I just figured that was the best it was going to get... seems like this whole time the throttle has been forked up and I never knew it...
anyway, just thought I'd share...
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
06-09-2009, 11:40 PM #1my throttle has been giving me problems ever since my 4 speed swap a few weeks ago and while the performance was better then the slushbox, it wasnt as drastic as I had anticipated...
so I saw a post the other day and realized that my throttle linkage was significantly different than the one in a photo... mine had a big 'wahtoosie' in it (that's pappy speak for the fukker was bent..a like a 155* angle)... so today I went by the ecology auto wrecking and made a hybrid 240/300D linkage and boy what a difference it made to have a throttle that wasnt binding up...
anyway, I took the rod that goes from the firewall bushing to the valve cover (VC) lever from the 300D (which was arrow straight) and took the end piece from the same rod off the 240D and mated them together and to the lever on my VC...
I dunno if the end piece from the 240D was a stock part, but it appeared to be 'cause it had a 2 pronged deal that inserted into 2 holes (w/bushings) in the lever on the VC and as such, allowed me to also get rid of the last bit of auto trans crap on top of the VC...
while I was at it, I also noticed that the linkage on the IP itself (that goes towards the auto trans vac bleedoff) was rubbing against the coolant hose between it and the oil tower and that was causing my throttle to 'stick' a bit and also make it more difficult to push the go pedal down... fixed that as well
anyway, after getting my parts, I went out to my car and threw the stuff together to test out on my way home... awesome is the only thing I can say about it... the car can actually get outta its own way now!
anyway, ill try to get some pics of it tomorrow and upload 'em to more easily describe what I did if anyone else is interested... basically if you did a manual swap and still have any auto trans linkage on top of the VC (like that pesky black box that everyone disconnects vac lines to), you can do something similar and clean that up quite a bit (read: remove it entirely)...
when I bought this car about 2 years ago, it was the fastest one of the examples I drove... it was still slow compared to what I was used to, but I just figured that was the best it was going to get... seems like this whole time the throttle has been forked up and I never knew it...
anyway, just thought I'd share...
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
The 300D will get a direct rod when the m-pump is installed but the stock junk up top will be modified to have only a single rod move the main portion. Its needed for the bowden cable operation and my VGT turbo control plans. The m-pump has the e-stop on the fuel rack directly so the linkage does not move to kill the engine.
ForcedInduction
06-11-2009, 05:17 AM
#3
I use some modified linkages from a W116 300SD. If it weren't for needing back movement for the e-stop I'd have a direct rod.
The 300D will get a direct rod when the m-pump is installed but the stock junk up top will be modified to have only a single rod move the main portion. Its needed for the bowden cable operation and my VGT turbo control plans. The m-pump has the e-stop on the fuel rack directly so the linkage does not move to kill the engine.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
06-11-2009, 11:09 AM #4ive got to find either my usb cable for my phone or the mini SD->SD adapter so I can get the pics off my phone... or I guess I can get off my lazy ass and take the real camera out there and get some more pics... it is quite a bit different and much simpler setup than stock. I like the idea of utilizing the valve cover stuff and bowden for VGT control tho.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
(06-10-2009, 07:10 AM)winmutt With an 85 you get throttle position from the sensor up there. Only reason I haven't put in a manual linkage my self.
I went a grabbed some 116 throttle stuff today, and was pretty excited until I read this. What would happen if I interfered with this throttle position sensor, which is a total surprise to me!
Couple questions based on the pic of my super rusty stuff below-
1- Is there a reason to keep the two bars above the stop lever? do they provide some kind of tension? Mine is frozen, so I was unable to tell by playing with it, I think I see a spring on forced's above, but there is none on mine (probably rusted away).
2- can I still use this linkage setup on the 85 300TD?
Surfrodder, can you post a pic of what you did with the 240 setup? Im interested to see how it appears compared to the 116 stuff
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(06-10-2009, 07:10 AM)winmutt With an 85 you get throttle position from the sensor up there. Only reason I haven't put in a manual linkage my self.
I went a grabbed some 116 throttle stuff today, and was pretty excited until I read this. What would happen if I interfered with this throttle position sensor, which is a total surprise to me!
Couple questions based on the pic of my super rusty stuff below-
1- Is there a reason to keep the two bars above the stop lever? do they provide some kind of tension? Mine is frozen, so I was unable to tell by playing with it, I think I see a spring on forced's above, but there is none on mine (probably rusted away).
2- can I still use this linkage setup on the 85 300TD?
Surfrodder, can you post a pic of what you did with the 240 setup? Im interested to see how it appears compared to the 116 stuff
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(01-25-2010, 08:38 PM)dropnosky I went a grabbed some 116 throttle stuff todayDid you also get the non-egr manifolds?
The switch on the 84-85 valvecover should just be to kill the A/C compressor.
ForcedInduction
01-25-2010, 10:19 PM
#6
(01-25-2010, 08:38 PM)dropnosky I went a grabbed some 116 throttle stuff todayDid you also get the non-egr manifolds?
The switch on the 84-85 valvecover should just be to kill the A/C compressor.
This linkage may be worthless its so corroded.
So the throttle position on the valve cover is only for the A/C compressor control? Good, A/C is one of the first things I plan on removing completely from the car, does not work anyway.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
i did not! Did not even think to check, good call. I had a lot of trouble with all the bolts on this linkage, so my feeling is I may need a torch on that car, but there were a couple that might have it where the hoods have been closed that I should check.
This linkage may be worthless its so corroded.
So the throttle position on the valve cover is only for the A/C compressor control? Good, A/C is one of the first things I plan on removing completely from the car, does not work anyway.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
I wasn't sure how the two sections would clock together so I welded in some spline sections and used a splined coupler (parts from Enderle Fuel Injection in Calif.)
-------------
'84 G-Wagen turbodiesel
'75 240D 4-Speed
Here's mine - I had to graft the sedan to the G-wagen linkage at the firewall.
I wasn't sure how the two sections would clock together so I welded in some spline sections and used a splined coupler (parts from Enderle Fuel Injection in Calif.)
-------------
'84 G-Wagen turbodiesel
'75 240D 4-Speed
Ive got a bunch of other springs in my garage for different tensions, and it would be a cinch to adapt one of them to this application since my original is rusted beyond repair and if a lot of this is superfluous.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
What do you think the tension rating is on the valve cover spring that returns the throttle linkage? Also, why are there two bars? How does torque travel through this apparatus with twin bars on opposite sides of the rubber?
Ive got a bunch of other springs in my garage for different tensions, and it would be a cinch to adapt one of them to this application since my original is rusted beyond repair and if a lot of this is superfluous.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(01-25-2010, 08:38 PM)dropnosky Surfrodder, can you post a pic of what you did with the 240 setup? Im interested to see how it appears compared to the 116 stuffsorry for the late reply...
see post #10 here:
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/83-300d-t-366.html
I got this setup from a 240D (late IIRC)... I was able to eliminate all the auto/egr crap from the top of the valve cover.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
02-11-2010, 09:34 PM #10(01-25-2010, 08:38 PM)dropnosky Surfrodder, can you post a pic of what you did with the 240 setup? Im interested to see how it appears compared to the 116 stuffsorry for the late reply...
see post #10 here:
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/83-300d-t-366.html
I got this setup from a 240D (late IIRC)... I was able to eliminate all the auto/egr crap from the top of the valve cover.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
(01-25-2010, 10:19 PM)ForcedInduction(01-25-2010, 08:38 PM)dropnosky I went a grabbed some 116 throttle stuff todayDid you also get the non-egr manifolds?
The switch on the 84-85 valvecover should just be to kill the A/C compressor.
Went back to that same car and grabbed the non-egr manifolds, including exhaust.
not the long runner type though unfortunately. Still worth grabbing for 10 bucks
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(01-25-2010, 10:19 PM)ForcedInduction(01-25-2010, 08:38 PM)dropnosky I went a grabbed some 116 throttle stuff todayDid you also get the non-egr manifolds?
The switch on the 84-85 valvecover should just be to kill the A/C compressor.
Went back to that same car and grabbed the non-egr manifolds, including exhaust.
not the long runner type though unfortunately. Still worth grabbing for 10 bucks
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
ForcedInduction
02-23-2010, 09:03 AM
#12
Always grab W116 non-EGR manifolds when you spot them. Even if you don't want them you can still get some decent $ from those that do.
1 Guest(s)
1 Guest(s)