what should i do while my motor is out?
what should i do while my motor is out?
also, i want to do an intercooler, what is the optimal size for an OM617? It will be stock turbo for now but i will probably upgrade it later, so i want something that is going to work for me now and later as well. ive got a pretty good amount of room under the hood of the jeep so i can do a pretty big intercooler.
so im yanking the motor out of my 80 300SD next week to get it ready to drop in the jeep. What should i do to the motor while its out? anything i should reaplace thats a PITA to get to when the motor is in? im a little worried about adjusting the timing on the IP and removing the rack limiter while its out since i don't want to make it not start. I dont want too many things i need to try and troubleshoot once its in, you know?
also, i want to do an intercooler, what is the optimal size for an OM617? It will be stock turbo for now but i will probably upgrade it later, so i want something that is going to work for me now and later as well. ive got a pretty good amount of room under the hood of the jeep so i can do a pretty big intercooler.
If I were you I would fix all the oil leaks that you can with it out, maybe adjust the vavles, check cam timing, time the IP (if you wanted). Everything is easier to work on when its not in a vehicle
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Someone with more experience can chime in, but more surface area of the IC the more heat it can dissipate effeciently. So the bigger the better
If I were you I would fix all the oil leaks that you can with it out, maybe adjust the vavles, check cam timing, time the IP (if you wanted). Everything is easier to work on when its not in a vehicle
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
01-24-2013, 10:31 AM #3The rear main seal has to be done with the upper oil pan off. The engine has to be out of the car to do it.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
01-24-2013, 03:54 PM #5Chain guide rails, water pump seals/hose, front main seal (reverse ring or get new one look it up) turbo grain seals/gaskets, oil pan seal. Loosen then retighten injection pump mounting bolts(one at a time so you don't have to retime), and add oil to the threads. Do the same with the vac pump cover. This will make adjustments easier. also break the oil filter bolts loose and replace that gasket-makes it easier to tune in car. Replace all the bolts on the back of the IP with allen or hex heads(new gasket here) break the ALDA bolt free-it's much easier out of the car. Also break the starter bolts free and retorque
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
--Steam-clean out the engine compartment.
--Renew the sway bar bushings, and anything else on the suspension that feels weak or looks awry.
--Check all firewall grommets for weatherproofness.
--Clean the 30-year-old leaf litter out of the cowl intakes and hood hinge wells.
--If excessive steering wheel play exists, dismount the steering damper, push it in and pull it out all the way, and if there is any unevenness or free play at the far ends of travel, replace it.
--If center vents don't blow warm on command, renew heater monovalve.
--Good time to renew the hood insulation mat, if it needs it.
--Also a good time to renew all heater hoses which pipe into the firewall.
--Replace rubber fuel hoses with Parker 7165 or better (biodiesel resistant).
--Check windshield squirters and renew if needed.
--Check exhaust bracket mounting where the downpipe connects to the exhaust.
--and undoubtedly more which escapes me at the moment.
Of course, if you are sending the SD to the crusher, then never mind the above...
Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
JustPassinThru
01-24-2013, 09:09 PM #7Then there's the stuff that has nothing to do directly with the engine, but might as well do now, whilst you can see, stand, and crouch where the engine normally is (assuming you are going to keep the SD):
--Steam-clean out the engine compartment.
--Renew the sway bar bushings, and anything else on the suspension that feels weak or looks awry.
--Check all firewall grommets for weatherproofness.
--Clean the 30-year-old leaf litter out of the cowl intakes and hood hinge wells.
--If excessive steering wheel play exists, dismount the steering damper, push it in and pull it out all the way, and if there is any unevenness or free play at the far ends of travel, replace it.
--If center vents don't blow warm on command, renew heater monovalve.
--Good time to renew the hood insulation mat, if it needs it.
--Also a good time to renew all heater hoses which pipe into the firewall.
--Replace rubber fuel hoses with Parker 7165 or better (biodiesel resistant).
--Check windshield squirters and renew if needed.
--Check exhaust bracket mounting where the downpipe connects to the exhaust.
--and undoubtedly more which escapes me at the moment.
Of course, if you are sending the SD to the crusher, then never mind the above...
Gone but not forgotten: two W123 sedans and two W124 wagons.
W124 1987 300TD wagon, for sale, $1000 (some assembly required).
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
01-24-2013, 09:35 PM #8M6x1 on the back of the IP, Don't know the length but I *think* 10mm or 15mm is okay.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Since this is going in my wife's jeep, she also wants the motor painted pink before it goes in
Cool thanks guys! Yeah the 300SD will be scrapped. The exterior is in almost perfect condition as are all the seats but the drivers. It's such a nice car I hate to scrap it! I'll try and part it out when I'm done with it if anyone wants it.
Since this is going in my wife's jeep, she also wants the motor painted pink before it goes in
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
01-25-2013, 08:05 AM #10Definitely sell the shell, you should be able to get $500 especially if you throw in the two transmissions. Would be a waste to scrap a non rusty cali car.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
(01-25-2013, 08:05 AM)Simpler=Better Definitely sell the shell, you should be able to get $500 especially if you throw in the two transmissions. Would be a waste to scrap a non rusty cali car.
^^^Agreed
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(01-25-2013, 08:05 AM)Simpler=Better Definitely sell the shell, you should be able to get $500 especially if you throw in the two transmissions. Would be a waste to scrap a non rusty cali car.
^^^Agreed
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-04-2013, 03:43 PM #14We're not talking about a rebuild-just the gaskets that are easier to get to while hte engine is out. Loosening bolts that are known to be a PITA is a huge time saver as well
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Another question, forced induction said that you can damage your turbo by drilling for the pyrometers on top of the exhaust manifold instead of the bottom. I don't understand why this is the case or if it's even true, he seemed knowledgable but he's also banned on almost every site lol
Oh okay I see, that makes sense. I can see some exhaust fumes coming from the intake manifold, right by cyl1 so I'll definitely do it there.
Another question, forced induction said that you can damage your turbo by drilling for the pyrometers on top of the exhaust manifold instead of the bottom. I don't understand why this is the case or if it's even true, he seemed knowledgable but he's also banned on almost every site lol
I think he was talking about drilling while the turbo is installed. If everything is taken apart drill wherever is convenient.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-04-2013, 09:51 PM #16He can come across as abrasive.
I think he was talking about drilling while the turbo is installed. If everything is taken apart drill wherever is convenient.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Some people drill and tap the manifold while the engine is running, hoping pieces of metal don't lodge themselves in your turbo, and destroying it. I honestly think it would be hard to hurt the exhaust side unless a piece got caught in between the wheel and the housing, but I still wouldn't try it.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Simpler=Better is correct. On both things
Some people drill and tap the manifold while the engine is running, hoping pieces of metal don't lodge themselves in your turbo, and destroying it. I honestly think it would be hard to hurt the exhaust side unless a piece got caught in between the wheel and the housing, but I still wouldn't try it.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-05-2013, 09:07 AM #19Yeah, and I can kinda see his side of the argument-5 million noobs pinching wastegate hoses and "feeling the power" when all they're doing is overboosting and making more noise.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-05-2013, 02:41 PM #21Great, let me know how it turns out. Did you see the shipping label? MF!@@$##@%!#@$#! UPS was like $70
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-05-2013, 08:13 PM #23bird in the hand blah blah plus I'd rather see it used than rusting in the garage
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
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