STD Tuning Engine Fuel filter change, won't start..

Fuel filter change, won't start..

Fuel filter change, won't start..

 
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Chuckler3
K26-2

30
01-26-2013, 05:43 PM #1
I purged the motor today and then changed the inline, and screw on filter on my 617. Then I found out my hand primer wasn't functioning, so I figured I'd just be trying to turn it over for a while. No workie...

I loosened the hard lines to the injectors and cranked it. The front four (1,2,4,5) leaked fuel. The rear (3) didn't leak at all. I'm beginning to think I shouldn't have purchased this car, even as cheap as it was.

What's going on here? I tried cranking it for 20-30 seconds a couple times with a few minute break in between to let the starter cool down and still nothing. I've given up for the moment.

1982 300SD.. owner since 3 Nov 2012...
Chuckler3
01-26-2013, 05:43 PM #1

I purged the motor today and then changed the inline, and screw on filter on my 617. Then I found out my hand primer wasn't functioning, so I figured I'd just be trying to turn it over for a while. No workie...

I loosened the hard lines to the injectors and cranked it. The front four (1,2,4,5) leaked fuel. The rear (3) didn't leak at all. I'm beginning to think I shouldn't have purchased this car, even as cheap as it was.

What's going on here? I tried cranking it for 20-30 seconds a couple times with a few minute break in between to let the starter cool down and still nothing. I've given up for the moment.


1982 300SD.. owner since 3 Nov 2012...

aaa
GT2256V

913
01-26-2013, 06:28 PM #2
Keep trying. Make sure your battery stays charged. In 603 land we prime with no primer pump at all. It takes forever.
aaa
01-26-2013, 06:28 PM #2

Keep trying. Make sure your battery stays charged. In 603 land we prime with no primer pump at all. It takes forever.

Chuckler3
K26-2

30
01-26-2013, 06:33 PM #3
Thanks for the reply. I'll go back and try some more this evening. I did the swap at a friend's place and I ended up having him drop me off at home after things went poorly.

1982 300SD.. owner since 3 Nov 2012...
Chuckler3
01-26-2013, 06:33 PM #3

Thanks for the reply. I'll go back and try some more this evening. I did the swap at a friend's place and I ended up having him drop me off at home after things went poorly.


1982 300SD.. owner since 3 Nov 2012...

willbhere4u
Six in a row make her go!

2,507
01-26-2013, 06:46 PM #4
I would not worry about over heating the starter. I have cranked for over a minute straight with out issue. It even says in cold weather it may take a few minuets of cranking.

1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
01-26-2013, 06:46 PM #4

I would not worry about over heating the starter. I have cranked for over a minute straight with out issue. It even says in cold weather it may take a few minuets of cranking.


1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running

Chuckler3
K26-2

30
01-26-2013, 08:17 PM #5
I sealed the hand primer and bled the last line and the car started almost immediately, but after a second or two of running it died. This happened about 7 times. I'm holding off until morning for further experimentation. I'm looking for any other ideas as to what would be causing this. I also bled the other lines but to no better result.

1982 300SD.. owner since 3 Nov 2012...
Chuckler3
01-26-2013, 08:17 PM #5

I sealed the hand primer and bled the last line and the car started almost immediately, but after a second or two of running it died. This happened about 7 times. I'm holding off until morning for further experimentation. I'm looking for any other ideas as to what would be causing this. I also bled the other lines but to no better result.


1982 300SD.. owner since 3 Nov 2012...

larsalan
Superturbo

1,272
01-26-2013, 09:39 PM #6
I've run the whole drive line off of the starter Wink. Cranking whilst in drive. I agree changing a filter always leads to air in lines and a whole lot of cranking.
I've often made the mistake of swapping a dirty filter on a cold day.
Always plan to have a nice warm motor before fucking around with filters.

Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'
larsalan
01-26-2013, 09:39 PM #6

I've run the whole drive line off of the starter Wink. Cranking whilst in drive. I agree changing a filter always leads to air in lines and a whole lot of cranking.
I've often made the mistake of swapping a dirty filter on a cold day.
Always plan to have a nice warm motor before fucking around with filters.


Rusted out beat down 300d turbo 82' -- RIP
Nice body, tons of ridiculous mechanical issues - 300d turbo 82' /motor 85'

83300d
GTA2056V

78
01-26-2013, 11:15 PM #7
I recently changed both filters on my 83 and had a similar situation happen. Once I bled the air out at the plug on top of the big filter I kept cranking - fearing I would have to open the hard lines. Then just as I thought it was time to crack them it fired up and sputtered till I gave it throttled up and then it was all good.

But if you have fuel coming from that bleed valve without any air I would think it would be in the hard lines. Crack em and try bleeding again?????

Manual says if it won't stay running its air in the system. Have you checked your pump area again? Might have to upgrade the pump to avoid letting air.

Those are my ramblings and two bits. Back to the beers.

Good luck and don't give up
83300d
01-26-2013, 11:15 PM #7

I recently changed both filters on my 83 and had a similar situation happen. Once I bled the air out at the plug on top of the big filter I kept cranking - fearing I would have to open the hard lines. Then just as I thought it was time to crack them it fired up and sputtered till I gave it throttled up and then it was all good.

But if you have fuel coming from that bleed valve without any air I would think it would be in the hard lines. Crack em and try bleeding again?????

Manual says if it won't stay running its air in the system. Have you checked your pump area again? Might have to upgrade the pump to avoid letting air.

Those are my ramblings and two bits. Back to the beers.

Good luck and don't give up

rmd2k1
K26-2

28
01-27-2013, 01:06 AM #8
When you change the spin on filter fill it with fuel. Makes things much easier
rmd2k1
01-27-2013, 01:06 AM #8

When you change the spin on filter fill it with fuel. Makes things much easier

Chuckler3
K26-2

30
01-27-2013, 08:03 AM #9
(01-27-2013, 01:06 AM)rmd2k1 When you change the spin on filter fill it with fuel. Makes things much easier

Yeah. it was filled 2/3 of the way up before I replaced it. After the first 10 minutes of unsuccessful firing, i took it off to check it and it was full already.

1982 300SD.. owner since 3 Nov 2012...
Chuckler3
01-27-2013, 08:03 AM #9

(01-27-2013, 01:06 AM)rmd2k1 When you change the spin on filter fill it with fuel. Makes things much easier

Yeah. it was filled 2/3 of the way up before I replaced it. After the first 10 minutes of unsuccessful firing, i took it off to check it and it was full already.


1982 300SD.. owner since 3 Nov 2012...

SurfRodder
Jackass Extraordinaire

611
01-28-2013, 10:10 AM #10
(01-26-2013, 05:43 PM)Chuckler3 I loosened the hard lines to the injectors and cranked it. The front four (1,2,4,5) leaked fuel. The rear (3) didn't leak at all. I'm beginning to think I shouldn't have purchased this car, even as cheap as it was.
Just to verify, you're cracking the hard lines at the injector, no? I usually leave the top bolt for the spin on slightly loose and pump the primer or turn it over until it leaks a lot (seems like no more air escapes) and then tighten it down, give it another couple of mins of hand pumping and it fires right up. Prolly a good idea to replace/repair the primer now if you haven't already done so. I've only had to crack the injector lines once and that was after IP replacement.

W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62
SurfRodder
01-28-2013, 10:10 AM #10

(01-26-2013, 05:43 PM)Chuckler3 I loosened the hard lines to the injectors and cranked it. The front four (1,2,4,5) leaked fuel. The rear (3) didn't leak at all. I'm beginning to think I shouldn't have purchased this car, even as cheap as it was.
Just to verify, you're cracking the hard lines at the injector, no? I usually leave the top bolt for the spin on slightly loose and pump the primer or turn it over until it leaks a lot (seems like no more air escapes) and then tighten it down, give it another couple of mins of hand pumping and it fires right up. Prolly a good idea to replace/repair the primer now if you haven't already done so. I've only had to crack the injector lines once and that was after IP replacement.


W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62

Chuckler3
K26-2

30
01-30-2013, 09:28 PM #11
Alright. I replaced the primer pump with a new bosch unit and as expected I suppose, the car fired up after cranking for about 8 seconds and applying a little throttle. My thanks go out to everyone that responded.

1982 300SD.. owner since 3 Nov 2012...
Chuckler3
01-30-2013, 09:28 PM #11

Alright. I replaced the primer pump with a new bosch unit and as expected I suppose, the car fired up after cranking for about 8 seconds and applying a little throttle. My thanks go out to everyone that responded.


1982 300SD.. owner since 3 Nov 2012...

lgreeley83
Mr. Rumbles

775
01-31-2013, 01:44 AM #12
The warm fuzzy feeling of success!

" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."

lgreeley83
01-31-2013, 01:44 AM #12

The warm fuzzy feeling of success!


" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
01-31-2013, 02:36 AM #13
Was there a big arse cloud of smoke from all that cranking?

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
01-31-2013, 02:36 AM #13

Was there a big arse cloud of smoke from all that cranking?


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

 
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