Jeep OM605
Jeep OM605
![[Image: th_ostokunto.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/ostokunto.jpg)
I got a cheap AX-15 manual transmission, used old OM601 block and started to make an adapter plate to mate these two.
![[Image: th_jeepcedes2.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/jeepcedes2.jpg)
![[Image: th_adapteri.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/adapteri.jpg)
Away goes old gasoline engine.
![[Image: th_purku1.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/purku1.jpg)
![[Image: th_jeepkone.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/jeepkone.jpg)
A little firewall modification and cleaning up..
![[Image: th_koneh1.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/koneh1.jpg)
![[Image: th_maalattupannuh.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/maalattupannuh.jpg)
Wiring harness mods done, water pipings to match the new engine.
![[Image: th_putketpaikalla.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/putketpaikalla.jpg)
Brake booster and main cylinder from a newer Jeep.
![[Image: th_tehostinpaikalla.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/tehostinpaikalla.jpg)
A lot of smaller mods: transfer case input shaft had to be changed to accept manual tranny, at the same time I replaced tc-chain and seals. Suspension downtravel-limiter had to be made thicker, steering stabilizer be moved and pitman arm changed to avoid sump hitting steering/axle parts. Oil sump was changed from Ssangyong (MB 5-cyl licence engine) but it had to be modified also. Alternator mounting bracket had to custom made, it comes so close to front frame/beam. Battery was moved to the back, gas pump removed, clutch main cylinder added etc..
Flywheel is an interesting piece. Crank head is further from the block deck in Jeep than in Merc, also had to compensate for adapter thickness. Merc clutch is 240mm whereas Jeep has 265mm, which I used. The whole thing with clutch weighs exactly the same as stock MB C250td clutch+fw.
![[Image: th_vp1.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/vp1.jpg)
![[Image: th_vp2.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/vp2.jpg)
Ready to go.
![[Image: th_voimalinja.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/voimalinja.jpg)
![[Image: th_pannuhuone3.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/pannuhuone3.jpg)
Exhaust manifold.
![[Image: th_pakosatsi3.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/pakosatsi3.jpg)
Exhaust pipe, 3".
![[Image: th_putki.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/putki.jpg)
Wartburg? At least as ugly as..
![[Image: th_cooleri.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/cooleri.jpg)
Then to the inspection station to make the mods road legal and got approved! Car was weighted 1580kg without driver.
![[Image: th_viltteri.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/viltteri.jpg)
Yeah, rust, luckily not that much. Welded those and installed some sound insulation at the same time.
![[Image: th_ruoste012.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/ruoste012.jpg)
![[Image: th_kabiini1.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/kabiini1.jpg)
![[Image: th_kabiini2.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/kabiini2.jpg)
Old bottomed-out springs were changed to new stock ones, and right after that I got a 2" lift kit.
![[Image: th_marras12.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/marras12.jpg)
Lifting made it wobble, so needed to change suspension/steering parts: HD-panhard, steering linkages and stabilizer ends.
![[Image: th_hd-keula.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/hd-keula.jpg)
As this is a real multipurpose vehicle, I decided to take it even furher
![[Image: th_vinssipeti.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/vinssipeti.jpg)
![[Image: th_vinssipaikalla.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/vinssipaikalla.jpg)
![[Image: th_lumilevy2.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/lumilevy2.jpg)
The turbo is Schwitzer S200 with divided A/R 1.0 turbine housing, which caused too much lag. I dynoed 353hp/500Nm with 130cc fueling (pump made for 170cc).
In winter a Holset #8 housing was machined to match it, which made it much better. In fifth/fourth gear it used to boost 2500rpm 0,3bar and with the #8 housing it got 1,0bar on fourth and 1,5bar on fifth! Some upper end power was lost. In winter the #8 housing was ok, but the engine began feeling sneezy in spring -- it's clear that there is too much exhaust backpressure with the tiny housing.
![[Image: th_turbiini8.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/turbiini8.jpg)
The car was in this condition the whole winter. On snowy roads this vehicle is pure fun, but on ice the understeer is terrible.
Youtube-clip 1
Youtube-clip 2
I wanted less of a SUV-look and something more masculine, so I got Bushwacker flares. The stock tires began looking just sad, so I tried to fix the looks with 30mm spacers at first..
![[Image: th_badass.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/badass.jpg)
...but then had to get wider rims and bigger tires. Now it's running with 9x15" Cragar -copies and BFG mudterrains 31x10,5 and the track width has been increased nearly 200mm over stock. Unlike expected, it made the handling better, even at high speeds.
![[Image: th_mutikat2.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/mutikat2.jpg)
The big tires made the vehicle slower and increased consumption by 10%, but it's just that a Jeep can't look like an everyday SUV.
Now I'm in the progress of doing all maintenance work before winter, changing U-joints, seals etc. Also going to repaint the car in different colour and do some mods to the engine bay. More fuel, more boost. Bigger turbine housing for the S200 and add a small turbo (GT2260v) to help low end tq. As this is mainly a winter car, max power isn't as relevant as how the power comes out.
I was struggling with 4x4 fever for years and finally decided to do something about it. I wanted a vehicle that wasn't too heavy and it had to have a center differential. As I live in Finland, driving conditions in winter are often partially dry and partially icy asphalt, so you can't drive with diff locked, but 4wd gives nice stability compared to 2wd. Compared specs and it seemed the Jeep XJ Cherokee with NP242 tc would be my choice. So it was, bought the car in march 2012.
I got a cheap AX-15 manual transmission, used old OM601 block and started to make an adapter plate to mate these two.
Away goes old gasoline engine.
A little firewall modification and cleaning up..
Wiring harness mods done, water pipings to match the new engine.
Brake booster and main cylinder from a newer Jeep.
A lot of smaller mods: transfer case input shaft had to be changed to accept manual tranny, at the same time I replaced tc-chain and seals. Suspension downtravel-limiter had to be made thicker, steering stabilizer be moved and pitman arm changed to avoid sump hitting steering/axle parts. Oil sump was changed from Ssangyong (MB 5-cyl licence engine) but it had to be modified also. Alternator mounting bracket had to custom made, it comes so close to front frame/beam. Battery was moved to the back, gas pump removed, clutch main cylinder added etc..
Flywheel is an interesting piece. Crank head is further from the block deck in Jeep than in Merc, also had to compensate for adapter thickness. Merc clutch is 240mm whereas Jeep has 265mm, which I used. The whole thing with clutch weighs exactly the same as stock MB C250td clutch+fw.
Ready to go.
Exhaust manifold.
Exhaust pipe, 3".
Wartburg? At least as ugly as..
Then to the inspection station to make the mods road legal and got approved! Car was weighted 1580kg without driver.
Yeah, rust, luckily not that much. Welded those and installed some sound insulation at the same time.
Old bottomed-out springs were changed to new stock ones, and right after that I got a 2" lift kit.
Lifting made it wobble, so needed to change suspension/steering parts: HD-panhard, steering linkages and stabilizer ends.
As this is a real multipurpose vehicle, I decided to take it even furher
The turbo is Schwitzer S200 with divided A/R 1.0 turbine housing, which caused too much lag. I dynoed 353hp/500Nm with 130cc fueling (pump made for 170cc).
In winter a Holset #8 housing was machined to match it, which made it much better. In fifth/fourth gear it used to boost 2500rpm 0,3bar and with the #8 housing it got 1,0bar on fourth and 1,5bar on fifth! Some upper end power was lost. In winter the #8 housing was ok, but the engine began feeling sneezy in spring -- it's clear that there is too much exhaust backpressure with the tiny housing.
The car was in this condition the whole winter. On snowy roads this vehicle is pure fun, but on ice the understeer is terrible.
Youtube-clip 1
Youtube-clip 2
I wanted less of a SUV-look and something more masculine, so I got Bushwacker flares. The stock tires began looking just sad, so I tried to fix the looks with 30mm spacers at first..
...but then had to get wider rims and bigger tires. Now it's running with 9x15" Cragar -copies and BFG mudterrains 31x10,5 and the track width has been increased nearly 200mm over stock. Unlike expected, it made the handling better, even at high speeds.
The big tires made the vehicle slower and increased consumption by 10%, but it's just that a Jeep can't look like an everyday SUV.
Now I'm in the progress of doing all maintenance work before winter, changing U-joints, seals etc. Also going to repaint the car in different colour and do some mods to the engine bay. More fuel, more boost. Bigger turbine housing for the S200 and add a small turbo (GT2260v) to help low end tq. As this is mainly a winter car, max power isn't as relevant as how the power comes out.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-08-2013, 09:51 AM #2you're a hero!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
maxypriest
09-08-2013, 02:20 PM #3Brilliant
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
I WANT IT!!!
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
awesome!!
I WANT IT!!!
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
(09-10-2013, 02:54 AM)erling66 Great to see that you are backThanks, it's been a while since last post. BMW is in parts now, lost the inspiration for that car, wanted something new and then came thisand your work is excellent as always. Is your BMW/606 still alive?
Post one-
"hello, here are dozens of finished pictures of something incredibly technically elegant, custom, and complex, all problems solved, all difficulties resolved, completed with professionalism and skill."
Post two-
"I decided to modify for extreme power, performance, or looks, here are my custom changes, here is what must be 1000 hours of work perfectly finished and in use"
you guys shame us all!
looking forward to your next changes, this is a perfect swap for a jeep. Now I want one
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Lol, I love these Scandinavian build threads.
Post one-
"hello, here are dozens of finished pictures of something incredibly technically elegant, custom, and complex, all problems solved, all difficulties resolved, completed with professionalism and skill."
Post two-
"I decided to modify for extreme power, performance, or looks, here are my custom changes, here is what must be 1000 hours of work perfectly finished and in use"
you guys shame us all!
looking forward to your next changes, this is a perfect swap for a jeep. Now I want one
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
How thick is your adaptor plate?
Aparently you fitted the original jeep engine brackets on the merc block!
Forgot to ask, are you using the ax15 original pressure plate but with ceramic clutch disc?
Thanks
Muuris, is your hybrid flywheel made from merc ring gear and flat jeep flywheel surface?
How thick is your adaptor plate?
Aparently you fitted the original jeep engine brackets on the merc block!
Forgot to ask, are you using the ax15 original pressure plate but with ceramic clutch disc?
Thanks
![[Image: th_kytkimet.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/kytkimet.jpg)
My adapter plate is 12mm thick. Engine brackets are custom made, they were like this at first
![[Image: th_korvakot.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/korvakot.jpg)
but now I've done them again as I changed from Jeep engine mounts to BMW ones to give less vibrations.
Flywheel is custom made from single piece, it only uses Merc ring gear. Original Jeep fw doesn't even have the alignment pivots. This pic shows Jeep 265mm vs Merc 240mm clutches. I'm using Jeep clutch with original everything, it's just so big that it holds
My adapter plate is 12mm thick. Engine brackets are custom made, they were like this at first
but now I've done them again as I changed from Jeep engine mounts to BMW ones to give less vibrations.
I'm very seriously looking at putting an OM606 or OM605 into a 2007 Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited.
If the 606 will fit length-wise without too much sump modification, I would prefer to do that.
What kind of mileage are you getting in the Cherokee?
Keep it up!
-Dan
Fantastic, and inspirational!
I'm very seriously looking at putting an OM606 or OM605 into a 2007 Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited.
If the 606 will fit length-wise without too much sump modification, I would prefer to do that.
What kind of mileage are you getting in the Cherokee?
Keep it up!
-Dan
The mileage was better in the beginning, but since I got power and did the lift plus big tires plus small turbine housing it's gotten worse.. it was over 27mpg at best, now it's between 19-21mpg with my very accelerator-happy driving style.
For comparison, I did between 13 and 21mpg with Jeep engine, half the power I now have, stock tires, no lift, no fun.
If I'd do this again, I'd use dry sump (and propably OM606). That's what I would recommend for anyone putting OM60x into a Jeep, it would give so much clearance and ensure a good lubrication.
The mileage was better in the beginning, but since I got power and did the lift plus big tires plus small turbine housing it's gotten worse.. it was over 27mpg at best, now it's between 19-21mpg with my very accelerator-happy driving style.
For comparison, I did between 13 and 21mpg with Jeep engine, half the power I now have, stock tires, no lift, no fun.
(09-10-2013, 11:37 PM)muuris If I'd do this again, I'd use dry sump (and propably OM606). That's what I would recommend for anyone putting OM60x into a Jeep, it would give so much clearance and ensure a good lubrication.
Interesting idea. Thanks for the information.
Do you know how much effort a dry sump on an OM606 would be?
Has anyone done it before?
Thanks,
-Dan
(09-10-2013, 11:37 PM)muuris If I'd do this again, I'd use dry sump (and propably OM606). That's what I would recommend for anyone putting OM60x into a Jeep, it would give so much clearance and ensure a good lubrication.
Interesting idea. Thanks for the information.
Do you know how much effort a dry sump on an OM606 would be?
Has anyone done it before?
Thanks,
-Dan
Sorin, the injection pump has the stock mechanical lift pump in place, if that's what you mean.
Dan, dry sumping a 606 is the same effort as for dry sumping any engine. Can't be afraid of giving effort if planning that. I know it's been done at least in a few vehicles in Finland.
Sorin, the injection pump has the stock mechanical lift pump in place, if that's what you mean.
(09-29-2013, 02:08 PM)sorin_cel well done, you're a good fabricator as well.
are you running the engine with stock internals?
you haven't stripped it for a rebuilt have you?
Stock it is, no need for rebuild as it has had only about 300k kms. Don't fix it if it ain't broken
I'm reaching the same conclusion on my GM mounts and am looking for some similar mounting softer mounts. Do the bmw mounts use a single horizontal bolt as well?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
So you are having good results from the bmw engine mounts for vibration?
I'm reaching the same conclusion on my GM mounts and am looking for some similar mounting softer mounts. Do the bmw mounts use a single horizontal bolt as well?
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(10-06-2013, 06:41 AM)JB3 So you are having good results from the bmw engine mounts for vibration?
I'm reaching the same conclusion on my GM mounts and am looking for some similar mounting softer mounts. Do the bmw mounts use a single horizontal bolt as well?
I had these same mounts on my previous dd (E32-OM606) and I think they're a good compromise of being stong enough and still not producing much vibrations. They are from E34 524td and 525tds. Don't remember any more why I didn't use the same on both sides. It's not like the Jeep mount, much alike to Merc.
![[Image: mhrrq3YPR77o8xSbwlxOgDw.jpg]](http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mhrrq3YPR77o8xSbwlxOgDw.jpg)
(10-06-2013, 06:41 AM)JB3 So you are having good results from the bmw engine mounts for vibration?
I'm reaching the same conclusion on my GM mounts and am looking for some similar mounting softer mounts. Do the bmw mounts use a single horizontal bolt as well?
I had these same mounts on my previous dd (E32-OM606) and I think they're a good compromise of being stong enough and still not producing much vibrations. They are from E34 524td and 525tds. Don't remember any more why I didn't use the same on both sides. It's not like the Jeep mount, much alike to Merc.
I would love to see some mud bogging videos?
se how it works, it looks verry god, and sounds just mean
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
Hello!
I would love to see some mud bogging videos?
se how it works, it looks verry god, and sounds just mean
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
(10-09-2013, 08:05 AM)Ksteen2 I would love to see some mud bogging videos?
se how it works, it looks verry god, and sounds just mean
Haven't gone seriously bogging, as this is my daily driver. But maybe I should take a few videos when it's back on the road
A brief update. I've had other things keeping me busy, but for the last three weeks I've finally had time for the Jeep also. I bought back my old S200 A/R 1.0 housing for the turbo project, but it's on hold for a while longer now. Keeping that in mind, and as this doesn't have oil pressure warning light as stock, I made this adapter
![[Image: th_tukki.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/tukki.jpg)
Heated mirrors are nice in winter daily driver, so I retrofitted those.
![[Image: th_peili.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/peili.jpg)
The front end boost pipes are a tight fit. Stock turning blinkers are like 6" deep, I used to have cutted ones and now fitted smaller ones from VW Golf. The orange parts will be painted black.
![[Image: th_vilkut.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/vilkut.jpg)
Last winter I bought "rust free" doors for drivers side, so I wouldn't have to do hateful rust jobs. The doors I got were painted orange from bottom, I was just going to wipe away the color but seemed there was quite a lot of filler.. in the end I had to remove it all and use sandblaster to remove rust.
![[Image: th_takaovi1.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/takaovi1.jpg)
Rear door needed a some weld job for door handle are, the front door had already been welded from the bottom. The passanger side doors were ok, so I didn't replace them.
![[Image: th_takaovi2.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/takaovi2.jpg)
Earlier I temporarily installed the Bushwacker flares with self-tapping screws, now I installed rivet nuts and flares will be held by 6mm stainless bolts. The rears are a bit of a problem since the half that is attached to the door needs to sit nicely to wheel arch and not let too much mud in between. I cutted the body outer sheet metal away, folded the inner lip out and welded the seam all the way. The inner mud flap will be made from rubber mat.
![[Image: th_takakaari1.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/takakaari1.jpg)
![[Image: th_takakaari2.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/takakaari2.jpg)
I was going to paint this dark grey at first, but as the paint job was delayed, I started to have other thoughts. The original paintwork had partially chipped varnish which meant more work, and I don't like these paintwork-related jobs at all. This is a rugged vehicle, and if not earlier, it sure looks like it now.
![[Image: th_maali1.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/maali1.jpg)
![[Image: th_maali2.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/maali2.jpg)
(10-09-2013, 08:05 AM)Ksteen2 I would love to see some mud bogging videos?
se how it works, it looks verry god, and sounds just mean
Haven't gone seriously bogging, as this is my daily driver. But maybe I should take a few videos when it's back on the road
A brief update. I've had other things keeping me busy, but for the last three weeks I've finally had time for the Jeep also. I bought back my old S200 A/R 1.0 housing for the turbo project, but it's on hold for a while longer now. Keeping that in mind, and as this doesn't have oil pressure warning light as stock, I made this adapter
Heated mirrors are nice in winter daily driver, so I retrofitted those.
The front end boost pipes are a tight fit. Stock turning blinkers are like 6" deep, I used to have cutted ones and now fitted smaller ones from VW Golf. The orange parts will be painted black.
Last winter I bought "rust free" doors for drivers side, so I wouldn't have to do hateful rust jobs. The doors I got were painted orange from bottom, I was just going to wipe away the color but seemed there was quite a lot of filler.. in the end I had to remove it all and use sandblaster to remove rust.
Rear door needed a some weld job for door handle are, the front door had already been welded from the bottom. The passanger side doors were ok, so I didn't replace them.
Earlier I temporarily installed the Bushwacker flares with self-tapping screws, now I installed rivet nuts and flares will be held by 6mm stainless bolts. The rears are a bit of a problem since the half that is attached to the door needs to sit nicely to wheel arch and not let too much mud in between. I cutted the body outer sheet metal away, folded the inner lip out and welded the seam all the way. The inner mud flap will be made from rubber mat.
I was going to paint this dark grey at first, but as the paint job was delayed, I started to have other thoughts. The original paintwork had partially chipped varnish which meant more work, and I don't like these paintwork-related jobs at all. This is a rugged vehicle, and if not earlier, it sure looks like it now.
![[Image: th_vihr1.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/vihr1.jpg)
![[Image: th_vihr2.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/vihr2.jpg)
are you thinkin of having it on dyno?
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
have you had it on dyno?
are you thinkin of having it on dyno?
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
(10-28-2013, 03:09 AM)Ksteen2 have you had it on dyno?
are you thinkin of having it on dyno?
I think I've written this on the first post of the topic
No point going to dyno until modifications made and approved by the infallible butt-dyno
Next I'll change new lift-shocks, fix tranny rear seal oil leak and get the annual inspection approved so I've got another year time for mods before next inspection.
(10-28-2013, 03:09 AM)Ksteen2 have you had it on dyno?
are you thinkin of having it on dyno?
I think I've written this on the first post of the topic
No point going to dyno until modifications made and approved by the infallible butt-dyno
Next I'll change new lift-shocks, fix tranny rear seal oil leak and get the annual inspection approved so I've got another year time for mods before next inspection.
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
would have been fun to se some numbers on the beast
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
I wounder how it work's in the woods :p
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
that's a good nmbr
I wounder how it work's in the woods :p
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
(09-10-2013, 11:37 PM)muuris If I'd do this again, I'd use dry sump (and propably OM606). That's what I would recommend for anyone putting OM60x into a Jeep, it would give so much clearance and ensure a good lubrication.Did you use the Ssangyong oil pump and oil pan? or did you fabricate something yourself? Difficult to see, but it looks like you have the oil sump in the rear of the engine. More photos of oil pump and pan would be great
(09-10-2013, 11:37 PM)muuris If I'd do this again, I'd use dry sump (and propably OM606). That's what I would recommend for anyone putting OM60x into a Jeep, it would give so much clearance and ensure a good lubrication.Did you use the Ssangyong oil pump and oil pan? or did you fabricate something yourself? Difficult to see, but it looks like you have the oil sump in the rear of the engine. More photos of oil pump and pan would be great
(11-02-2013, 04:30 AM)erling66 Did you use the Ssangyong oil pump and oil pan? or did you fabricate something yourself? Difficult to see, but it looks like you have the oil sump in the rear of the engine. More photos of oil pump and pan would be great
Yes, oil pump and oil pan are from Ssangyong. The latter is a two-piece design, upper part is aluminum, and the lower part (at the rear of the engine) is made of sheet steel. The stock oil capacity is huge for a 5-cyl engine, about 9 litres! I modified it to give room form upper control arm and downpipe, it now takes "only" 8 litres
![[Image: th_olpohja1.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/olpohja1.jpg)
![[Image: th_peltipohja1.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/peltipohja1.jpg)
(11-02-2013, 04:30 AM)erling66 Did you use the Ssangyong oil pump and oil pan? or did you fabricate something yourself? Difficult to see, but it looks like you have the oil sump in the rear of the engine. More photos of oil pump and pan would be great
Yes, oil pump and oil pan are from Ssangyong. The latter is a two-piece design, upper part is aluminum, and the lower part (at the rear of the engine) is made of sheet steel. The stock oil capacity is huge for a 5-cyl engine, about 9 litres! I modified it to give room form upper control arm and downpipe, it now takes "only" 8 litres
)I`m thinking to rebuild oil pan reservoir further forward and oil intake with it... something like OM617 I think.
I have original G oil radiator and I have Om606 filter housing on OM605 engine witch has oil exchange connections, works like additional oil reservoir... And cools down engine very good in summer.
For now I have stock c250 oil pan with little quick optimisation for engine to sit on axle...
Have you calculated how match engine clearance you will get with dry sump? Is it worth it? (not to mention expenses for it )
I`m thinking to rebuild oil pan reservoir further forward and oil intake with it... something like OM617 I think.
I have original G oil radiator and I have Om606 filter housing on OM605 engine witch has oil exchange connections, works like additional oil reservoir... And cools down engine very good in summer.
For now I have stock c250 oil pan with little quick optimisation for engine to sit on axle...
(11-03-2013, 09:31 AM)TvaiX Have you calculated how match engine clearance you will get with dry sump? Is it worth it? (not to mention expenses for it
No I haven't. In this point of view the Jeep isn't comparable to G-wagon. What I'm interested in is that the engine fits in there, which it wouldn't with stock oil pan. Even with Ssangyong pan, I've had to limit suspension downtravel about 2" because I don't want the engine to sit too high.
The other thing is better lubrication.
(11-03-2013, 09:31 AM)TvaiX Have you calculated how match engine clearance you will get with dry sump? Is it worth it? (not to mention expenses for it
No I haven't. In this point of view the Jeep isn't comparable to G-wagon. What I'm interested in is that the engine fits in there, which it wouldn't with stock oil pan. Even with Ssangyong pan, I've had to limit suspension downtravel about 2" because I don't want the engine to sit too high.
The other thing is better lubrication.
I had to remove the ip to change leaking o-ring at the back cover, and while in there, also raised the rpms a bit. Now it pulls nicely to 5600rpm and max is 6100. Annual inspection and modification inspections both done and approved, the inspection guy said that at least it's got revs
![[Image: th_koneh2.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/koneh2.jpg)
I installed the lift shocks and they made the grip better, as with stock shocks wheels left the ground on even small bumps. I got the oil pressure rail and new sender working, seems I have nearly 2bars more oil pressure than I though becouse of the old tired sender. To prevent heat problems I now have double temp switches for radiator fans, one at the thermostat cover and the other at the head where the fuel heat exchanger sits normally.
I had to remove the ip to change leaking o-ring at the back cover, and while in there, also raised the rpms a bit. Now it pulls nicely to 5600rpm and max is 6100. Annual inspection and modification inspections both done and approved, the inspection guy said that at least it's got revs
where was your pump done?
love this prodject :p
we have a jeep cherokee 2.5td (stock wm)
and thats a funn car on snow :p
so I think this is a hell of a lot more fun :p
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
looks verry good :p
where was your pump done?
love this prodject :p
we have a jeep cherokee 2.5td (stock wm)
and thats a funn car on snow :p
so I think this is a hell of a lot more fun :p
1#
Volvo 940 estate 1995
Originaly a d24tic
Changed to OM606.962 From the old 81 Benz
4" dp, 3,5" stainless from DP out.
8mm dieselmeken pump att 180cc
BW kkk K29 turbo, 15cm hot side
home made flywheel with sachs 765PP and original mercedes 240mm organic disc
6speed cdi box
4,5" humongus cooler
Please wait, loading boost
What the car really needs is higher ratios for the axles. Now with 3.54 ratios and 31" wheels, I have to slip clutch a lot when getting off the line, the acceleration suffers as jumps between gears are way too big and the 5th gear is pretty useless. Feels like you're always in the wrong gear, revs too high or too low. These low ratios and 5600rpm would make for 183mph top speed, but of course that would require huge power with the aerodynamics of a brick. For a while I've been trying to find a donor Jeep with 2.1l renault diesel, which would have applicable axles.
The pump is made by Mynä-diesel. I'm trying very hard to keep my head cool and stick with the 7mm, although the 8mm is very, very tempting. But that would require new turbo, stronger clutch (and maybe tranny), axles etc etc.. and there is still some 100hp more to get with the seven.
What the car really needs is higher ratios for the axles. Now with 3.54 ratios and 31" wheels, I have to slip clutch a lot when getting off the line, the acceleration suffers as jumps between gears are way too big and the 5th gear is pretty useless. Feels like you're always in the wrong gear, revs too high or too low. These low ratios and 5600rpm would make for 183mph top speed, but of course that would require huge power with the aerodynamics of a brick. For a while I've been trying to find a donor Jeep with 2.1l renault diesel, which would have applicable axles.
(11-13-2013, 03:00 AM)muuris The pump is made by Mynä-diesel. I'm trying very hard to keep my head cool and stick with the 7mm, although the 8mm is very, very tempting. But that would require new turbo, stronger clutch (and maybe tranny), axles etc etc.. and there is still some 100hp more to get with the seven.
What the car really needs is higher ratios for the axles. Now with 3.54 ratios and 31" wheels, I have to slip clutch a lot when getting off the line, the acceleration suffers as jumps between gears are way too big and the 5th gear is pretty useless. Feels like you're always in the wrong gear, revs too high or too low. These low ratios and 5600rpm would make for 183mph top speed, but of course that would require huge power with the aerodynamics of a brick. For a while I've been trying to find a donor Jeep with 2.1l renault diesel, which would have applicable axles.
Ring and pinon set is fairly cheap from Summit racing im sure. Is it a Dana 35c i think.. Sets are around $190 and you would just need carrier and pinion bearings. Lots of options there..
Duncansport
11-15-2013, 08:07 AM #39(11-13-2013, 03:00 AM)muuris The pump is made by Mynä-diesel. I'm trying very hard to keep my head cool and stick with the 7mm, although the 8mm is very, very tempting. But that would require new turbo, stronger clutch (and maybe tranny), axles etc etc.. and there is still some 100hp more to get with the seven.
What the car really needs is higher ratios for the axles. Now with 3.54 ratios and 31" wheels, I have to slip clutch a lot when getting off the line, the acceleration suffers as jumps between gears are way too big and the 5th gear is pretty useless. Feels like you're always in the wrong gear, revs too high or too low. These low ratios and 5600rpm would make for 183mph top speed, but of course that would require huge power with the aerodynamics of a brick. For a while I've been trying to find a donor Jeep with 2.1l renault diesel, which would have applicable axles.
Ring and pinon set is fairly cheap from Summit racing im sure. Is it a Dana 35c i think.. Sets are around $190 and you would just need carrier and pinion bearings. Lots of options there..
(11-15-2013, 08:07 AM)Duncansport Ring and pinon set is fairly cheap from Summit racing im sure. Is it a Dana 35c i think.. Sets are around $190 and you would just need carrier and pinion bearings. Lots of options there..
I know, but buying outside of EU means taxes. I have D35 rear and D30 front, and not so luckily the D35 is factory lsd which means I need non-lsd carrier to install a proper locker.
(11-15-2013, 08:07 AM)Duncansport Ring and pinon set is fairly cheap from Summit racing im sure. Is it a Dana 35c i think.. Sets are around $190 and you would just need carrier and pinion bearings. Lots of options there..
I know, but buying outside of EU means taxes. I have D35 rear and D30 front, and not so luckily the D35 is factory lsd which means I need non-lsd carrier to install a proper locker.
(11-13-2013, 03:00 AM)muuris What the car really needs is higher ratios for the axles. Now with 3.54 ratios and 31" wheels, I have to slip clutch a lot when getting off the line, the acceleration suffers as jumps between gears are way too big and the 5th gear is pretty useless. Feels like you're always in the wrong gear, revs too high or too low. These low ratios and 5600rpm would make for 183mph top speed, but of course that would require huge power with the aerodynamics of a brick. For a while I've been trying to find a donor Jeep with 2.1l renault diesel, which would have applicable axles.
Tell me about it! My jeep has 33" tall tires and the stack gears as well, except with power robbing AW4 automatic transmission... I dont use 4th gear at all and only have 170hp
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
11-20-2013, 12:13 AM #43(11-13-2013, 03:00 AM)muuris What the car really needs is higher ratios for the axles. Now with 3.54 ratios and 31" wheels, I have to slip clutch a lot when getting off the line, the acceleration suffers as jumps between gears are way too big and the 5th gear is pretty useless. Feels like you're always in the wrong gear, revs too high or too low. These low ratios and 5600rpm would make for 183mph top speed, but of course that would require huge power with the aerodynamics of a brick. For a while I've been trying to find a donor Jeep with 2.1l renault diesel, which would have applicable axles.
Tell me about it! My jeep has 33" tall tires and the stack gears as well, except with power robbing AW4 automatic transmission... I dont use 4th gear at all and only have 170hp
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
find a good W210 to fit my om605 in it.i should open a thread about that.will see how is going.cheers
i think you was right about the IP timing.i started it today, runs good, idles good and revs fast.i'm quite happy about the 6,5mm elements.hopefully i will
find a good W210 to fit my om605 in it.i should open a thread about that.will see how is going.cheers
(12-14-2013, 01:39 PM)sorin_cel i think you was right about the IP timing.i started it today, runs good, idles good and revs fast.i'm quite happy about the 6,5mm elements.hopefully i will
find a good W210 to fit my om605 in it.i should open a thread about that.will see how is going.cheers
Why not to choose a W203 manual 6 speed ( less weight ) are too many around you ..
Gelowatch
12-14-2013, 09:07 PM #48(12-14-2013, 01:39 PM)sorin_cel i think you was right about the IP timing.i started it today, runs good, idles good and revs fast.i'm quite happy about the 6,5mm elements.hopefully i will
find a good W210 to fit my om605 in it.i should open a thread about that.will see how is going.cheers
Why not to choose a W203 manual 6 speed ( less weight ) are too many around you ..
(12-14-2013, 09:07 PM)Gelowatch(12-14-2013, 01:39 PM)sorin_cel i think you was right about the IP timing.i started it today, runs good, idles good and revs fast.i'm quite happy about the 6,5mm elements.hopefully i will
find a good W210 to fit my om605 in it.i should open a thread about that.will see how is going.cheers
Why not to choose a W203 manual 6 speed ( less weight ) are too many around you ..
This is getting really off topic, please make new threads for your own projects. The noted IP timing is given by the pump builder, that's the starting point.
(12-14-2013, 09:07 PM)Gelowatch(12-14-2013, 01:39 PM)sorin_cel i think you was right about the IP timing.i started it today, runs good, idles good and revs fast.i'm quite happy about the 6,5mm elements.hopefully i will
find a good W210 to fit my om605 in it.i should open a thread about that.will see how is going.cheers
Why not to choose a W203 manual 6 speed ( less weight ) are too many around you ..
This is getting really off topic, please make new threads for your own projects. The noted IP timing is given by the pump builder, that's the starting point.
It's winter again, bring it on
Got a new set of rims & tyres for snow and ice, 10x15" Rocky ATs and 31x10,5 studded Kumhos.![[Image: th_joulu13.jpg]](http://muuris.webs.com/jeep/joulu13.jpg)
Tinting the windows is on to-do list, don't like the aquarium-look.
For a while nothing special has happened. Rotated the rear axle a bit for prop shaft angle correction. Installed fuel pressure warning light (lights up when under 0,1bar between the filter and ip). Moved brake booster a bit away from the engine as the clearance between intake manifold and booster was gone after motor mounts had sat and sunk. Then I had some typical jeep brake sticking problems. Overhauled the front calibers, changed one hose (and will change another when it arrives) and finally found the cause: the master cylinder return passage is blocked. I bought another one, got to change it after christmas when I get it.
It's winter again, bring it on Got a new set of rims & tyres for snow and ice, 10x15" Rocky ATs and 31x10,5 studded Kumhos.
Tinting the windows is on to-do list, don't like the aquarium-look.
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