Info for 1984 300td Turbo
Info for 1984 300td Turbo
I bought a non-running 84 Cali 300td with the Garrett 3014 turbo and no service records but it has a service due sticker for 230 and 240k on the clock. This is my first turbo having had and repaired a 240D for some time.
I didn't try to start the motor because when I took out the dead battery I found rust on the inner fender well and decided to repair that first. It looks like the engine has been leaking oil for awhile as it's spread around the motor, trans and undercarridge. It even leaked a considerable amount on the garage floor and I found it overfilled by at least 1 quart. The engine looks like it was leaking oil from the valve cover gasket as well. The air cleaner was saturated in oil around the crankcase vent attachment.
The PO mentioned that he thought there was something wrong with the turbo but not what. The EGR vacuum tube had been plugged. The compressor side has a vacuum inlet to what looks like a diaphragm. Unlike the one piece T3, it and the inlet bolt to the compressor housing. I haven't been able to find any specific info about the 3014. It seems to be transitional to the 1985 which is attached to a trap oxidizer.There's nothing about that one either.
I removed the turbo with the manifolds after finding oil at the intake and seeing oil was leaking around the turbo oil drain. There was no discernable play at the compressor end but a small amount of carbon in the heat shield. There was oil on both sides of the seemingly intact wastegate diaphragm. I haven't broken it down any further. From what I've read I think a Garrett T3 kit would work but really wonder if it's wise to rebuild it. Internet information is conflicting about balancing or not, the 270 or 360 degree thrust bearing, and whether those parts and the dynamic seals are made in China regardless of the Supplier and cost.
If anyone with first-hand knowledge could help with information and advice I'd certainly appreciate it. Thanks, C. Wright
Hi,
I bought a non-running 84 Cali 300td with the Garrett 3014 turbo and no service records but it has a service due sticker for 230 and 240k on the clock. This is my first turbo having had and repaired a 240D for some time.
I didn't try to start the motor because when I took out the dead battery I found rust on the inner fender well and decided to repair that first. It looks like the engine has been leaking oil for awhile as it's spread around the motor, trans and undercarridge. It even leaked a considerable amount on the garage floor and I found it overfilled by at least 1 quart. The engine looks like it was leaking oil from the valve cover gasket as well. The air cleaner was saturated in oil around the crankcase vent attachment.
The PO mentioned that he thought there was something wrong with the turbo but not what. The EGR vacuum tube had been plugged. The compressor side has a vacuum inlet to what looks like a diaphragm. Unlike the one piece T3, it and the inlet bolt to the compressor housing. I haven't been able to find any specific info about the 3014. It seems to be transitional to the 1985 which is attached to a trap oxidizer.There's nothing about that one either.
I removed the turbo with the manifolds after finding oil at the intake and seeing oil was leaking around the turbo oil drain. There was no discernable play at the compressor end but a small amount of carbon in the heat shield. There was oil on both sides of the seemingly intact wastegate diaphragm. I haven't broken it down any further. From what I've read I think a Garrett T3 kit would work but really wonder if it's wise to rebuild it. Internet information is conflicting about balancing or not, the 270 or 360 degree thrust bearing, and whether those parts and the dynamic seals are made in China regardless of the Supplier and cost.
If anyone with first-hand knowledge could help with information and advice I'd certainly appreciate it. Thanks, C. Wright
If it was mine, I would start with figuring out why it was non-running, and proceed from there. You might save yourself a lot of expense by determining the reason that it won't run before you start rebuilding or replacing expensive parts.
Steve.
What exactly are you looking for?
If it was mine, I would start with figuring out why it was non-running, and proceed from there. You might save yourself a lot of expense by determining the reason that it won't run before you start rebuilding or replacing expensive parts.
Steve.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-24-2014, 02:51 PM #3I'd clean it up, soak the cyls in MMO, turn it over by hand, reassemble, and try to start it.
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
09-24-2014, 09:10 PM #5snowbrd we need to get together
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
does your 84 have the 85-style cali manifolds with the turbo up top? i never heard of the different model of turbocharger but i can't imagine it being spec'd too differently.
sounds like you need to deal with the leaks separately.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
i wouldn't replace the turbo until i confirmed something was wrong. put a boost gauge on it, block off the wastegate actuator and see if pressure rises. if it does, connect the wastegate line again. if it doesn't maybe the unit does need to be replaced. they are pretty cheap, don't buy a whole kit.
does your 84 have the 85-style cali manifolds with the turbo up top? i never heard of the different model of turbocharger but i can't imagine it being spec'd too differently.
sounds like you need to deal with the leaks separately.
english red rat rod 1977 240D, OM617.952 burning B99.9, iron 4-speed & 2.88 diff, 195/60/R14 on alloys, 5mph bumpers, battery in the trunk, 25mm swaybar, 4x ECE H4 lamps, double brake lamps, deleted sunroof, export zoll & california blue plates
(09-26-2014, 03:19 AM)bricktron i wouldn't replace the turbo until i confirmed something was wrong. put a boost gauge on it, block off the wastegate actuator and see if pressure rises. if it does, connect the wastegate line again. if it doesn't maybe the unit does need to be replaced. they are pretty cheap, don't buy a whole kit.
does your 84 have the 85-style cali manifolds with the turbo up top? i never heard of the different model of turbocharger but i can't imagine it being spec'd too differently.
sounds like you need to deal with the leaks separately.
Thanks for the suggestions. It's good info I'll keep them in mind once it's running. This is the model before the trap oxidizer where they mounted it above the manifolds. I'm looking for info about the turbo because iI don't want to pull it again but I did buy an earlier T3 that is loose and does need a rebuild just in case.
Here's the deal. The turbo and manifolds are out. The "easy way" to take it apart didn't work. I'm not sorry it's apart and putting it back together to test it doesn't make much sense at this point. The turbo oil drain seals need to be replaced. From the looks of the engine compartment it was leaking for a long time. It also looks like there wasn't a good seal between the head and manifolds, nothing bad but beginning. The turbine is seperated from the compressor. The bearings are tight. There was little carbon in the heat shield. I found oil on both sides of the wastegate diaphragm to be the most troubling and nothing on the internet to suggest a cause. I would guess that the motor being overfilled 1 qt of oil might be the problem.
BAE Turbo Systems website has Holset Service Manuals. I wish I could find the same for Garrett.
At this point I'm cleaning the engine. Next up is a valve adjustment. Also looks like there's a vacuum leak somewhere.
(09-26-2014, 03:19 AM)bricktron i wouldn't replace the turbo until i confirmed something was wrong. put a boost gauge on it, block off the wastegate actuator and see if pressure rises. if it does, connect the wastegate line again. if it doesn't maybe the unit does need to be replaced. they are pretty cheap, don't buy a whole kit.
does your 84 have the 85-style cali manifolds with the turbo up top? i never heard of the different model of turbocharger but i can't imagine it being spec'd too differently.
sounds like you need to deal with the leaks separately.
Thanks for the suggestions. It's good info I'll keep them in mind once it's running. This is the model before the trap oxidizer where they mounted it above the manifolds. I'm looking for info about the turbo because iI don't want to pull it again but I did buy an earlier T3 that is loose and does need a rebuild just in case.
Here's the deal. The turbo and manifolds are out. The "easy way" to take it apart didn't work. I'm not sorry it's apart and putting it back together to test it doesn't make much sense at this point. The turbo oil drain seals need to be replaced. From the looks of the engine compartment it was leaking for a long time. It also looks like there wasn't a good seal between the head and manifolds, nothing bad but beginning. The turbine is seperated from the compressor. The bearings are tight. There was little carbon in the heat shield. I found oil on both sides of the wastegate diaphragm to be the most troubling and nothing on the internet to suggest a cause. I would guess that the motor being overfilled 1 qt of oil might be the problem.
BAE Turbo Systems website has Holset Service Manuals. I wish I could find the same for Garrett.
At this point I'm cleaning the engine. Next up is a valve adjustment. Also looks like there's a vacuum leak somewhere.
I do believe you will leak oil out the exhaust side of a turbo if it cannot drain properly, and overfilling could do that. iirc that why they use scavenge pumps for some turboed cars if the turbo sits to low or to far away to drain properly. i do know it'll smoke like crazy if i cant drain right.
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