STD Other Projects Grand Cherokee Om617

Grand Cherokee Om617

Grand Cherokee Om617

 
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carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
10-02-2014, 08:04 PM #1
Hi, i have searched everywhere to look for a Om617 swap on a grand cherokee but i only found Cherokee swaps so im making my swap very detailed so people can have some foundation and I'll be glad is im doing something wrong to point at it please, this Cherokee is in very good condition i paid a cheap amount cause it was almost throwing a rod the engine was a 4.0 2wd transmission, i bought a aw4 from a 96 Cherokee because it has the standalone controllr, another thing i noticed is that the stock transmission is a lot longer compared to the aw4 probably i will have to build a new driveshaft if the one from a Cherokee doesn't fit, im modifying the oil pan right now, the trans adapter is done im going to post the pictures iof the whole buildup [Image: 20140828_154550_zpsf5eprcha.jpg]

I cut the flywheel end of the busted crankshaft to do the adapter to bolt the aw4 flexplate, im no machinist, i do what i can with what i have, every day i learn something new, specially watching YouTube videos from mr pete and toms, im trying my best[Image: 20140902_145635_zpsaxiygnnv.jpg][Image: 20140905_110557_zpshvefsa44.jpg]
I turned from a solid aluminum bar a press fit bushing to center the flywheel to the adapter to transfer the holes[Image: 20140905_110610_zpsxpjnag0v.jpg]
This post was last modified: 10-02-2014, 08:33 PM by carlitosgy6.
carlitosgy6
10-02-2014, 08:04 PM #1

Hi, i have searched everywhere to look for a Om617 swap on a grand cherokee but i only found Cherokee swaps so im making my swap very detailed so people can have some foundation and I'll be glad is im doing something wrong to point at it please, this Cherokee is in very good condition i paid a cheap amount cause it was almost throwing a rod the engine was a 4.0 2wd transmission, i bought a aw4 from a 96 Cherokee because it has the standalone controllr, another thing i noticed is that the stock transmission is a lot longer compared to the aw4 probably i will have to build a new driveshaft if the one from a Cherokee doesn't fit, im modifying the oil pan right now, the trans adapter is done im going to post the pictures iof the whole buildup [Image: 20140828_154550_zpsf5eprcha.jpg]


I cut the flywheel end of the busted crankshaft to do the adapter to bolt the aw4 flexplate, im no machinist, i do what i can with what i have, every day i learn something new, specially watching YouTube videos from mr pete and toms, im trying my best[Image: 20140902_145635_zpsaxiygnnv.jpg][Image: 20140905_110557_zpshvefsa44.jpg]
I turned from a solid aluminum bar a press fit bushing to center the flywheel to the adapter to transfer the holes[Image: 20140905_110610_zpsxpjnag0v.jpg]

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
10-03-2014, 08:37 AM #2
WJs are nice. Smooth ride but still pretty capable.

I can print a 1:1 template for the merc crank if you need it, and the mercedes bell pattern. You can also just clamp stuff together and drill-it's all on the sticky in the engine part of the forums.

The radiator on those jeeps is a fucking nightmare-you need to remove 5,000 things and there's only 1/8" clearance. Just a heads up-you want to seriously consider going to a sligtly skinnier aftermarket radiator. The electric fan relay explodes every other day, so replace that too (under the passenger headlight)

If the fuel rail somehow doesn't have rust in it I'll buy it from you. Also the spark plug hold-down assembly, and the alternator if it's low miles. How's the oil pan look? Is it all messed up?

If that's a 2000-2001 the head is probably cracked, if it's not-you can sell the head for a couple hundred easy. Also, the WJ manifolds are sought out by the jeep guys-don't scrap them.

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-03-2014, 08:37 AM #2

WJs are nice. Smooth ride but still pretty capable.

I can print a 1:1 template for the merc crank if you need it, and the mercedes bell pattern. You can also just clamp stuff together and drill-it's all on the sticky in the engine part of the forums.

The radiator on those jeeps is a fucking nightmare-you need to remove 5,000 things and there's only 1/8" clearance. Just a heads up-you want to seriously consider going to a sligtly skinnier aftermarket radiator. The electric fan relay explodes every other day, so replace that too (under the passenger headlight)

If the fuel rail somehow doesn't have rust in it I'll buy it from you. Also the spark plug hold-down assembly, and the alternator if it's low miles. How's the oil pan look? Is it all messed up?

If that's a 2000-2001 the head is probably cracked, if it's not-you can sell the head for a couple hundred easy. Also, the WJ manifolds are sought out by the jeep guys-don't scrap them.


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
10-03-2014, 11:31 AM #3
(10-03-2014, 08:37 AM)Simpler=Better WJs are nice.  Smooth ride but still pretty capable.

I can print a 1:1 template for the merc crank if you need it, and the mercedes bell pattern.  You can also just clamp stuff together and drill-it's all on the sticky in the engine part of the forums.

The radiator on those jeeps is a fucking nightmare-you need to remove 5,000 things and there's only 1/8" clearance.  Just a heads up-you want to seriously consider going to a sligtly skinnier aftermarket radiator.  The electric fan relay explodes every other day, so replace that too (under the passenger headlight)

If the fuel rail somehow doesn't have rust in it I'll buy it from you.  Also the spark plug hold-down assembly, and the alternator if it's low miles.  How's the oil pan look? Is it all messed up?

If that's a 2000-2001 the head is probably cracked, if it's not-you can sell the head for a couple hundred easy.  Also, the WJ manifolds are sought out by the jeep guys-don't scrap them.
Man thanks for offering the pattern but i already did the trans adapter, if im not wrong the engine is far from the radiator,  i was thinking moving the radiator assy back so i can put the intercooler and the trans and engine coolers, between the steel bumper an the rad is tight, but i think  i have 8 inches between the engine and rad, but anyways i will put the radiator in to verify, do you need the oil pan, coil assy, and fuel rail? The engine had an rod knock but never flew away, the trans is nice also
This post was last modified: 04-19-2015, 11:08 PM by carlitosgy6.
carlitosgy6
10-03-2014, 11:31 AM #3

(10-03-2014, 08:37 AM)Simpler=Better WJs are nice.  Smooth ride but still pretty capable.

I can print a 1:1 template for the merc crank if you need it, and the mercedes bell pattern.  You can also just clamp stuff together and drill-it's all on the sticky in the engine part of the forums.

The radiator on those jeeps is a fucking nightmare-you need to remove 5,000 things and there's only 1/8" clearance.  Just a heads up-you want to seriously consider going to a sligtly skinnier aftermarket radiator.  The electric fan relay explodes every other day, so replace that too (under the passenger headlight)

If the fuel rail somehow doesn't have rust in it I'll buy it from you.  Also the spark plug hold-down assembly, and the alternator if it's low miles.  How's the oil pan look? Is it all messed up?

If that's a 2000-2001 the head is probably cracked, if it's not-you can sell the head for a couple hundred easy.  Also, the WJ manifolds are sought out by the jeep guys-don't scrap them.
Man thanks for offering the pattern but i already did the trans adapter, if im not wrong the engine is far from the radiator,  i was thinking moving the radiator assy back so i can put the intercooler and the trans and engine coolers, between the steel bumper an the rad is tight, but i think  i have 8 inches between the engine and rad, but anyways i will put the radiator in to verify, do you need the oil pan, coil assy, and fuel rail? The engine had an rod knock but never flew away, the trans is nice also

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
10-03-2014, 12:46 PM #4
You might have better luck with the 617 than I did with the 4.0L. I had to pull the fan shroud, fan, loosen the front crossmember, etc. to just barely wiggle the radiator out.

I'd like a spare fuel rail, mine's got rust inside the bores where the injectors go When I swap injectors I'm afraid it's going to scrape the orings.

The coil assy/pan would just be spares-so if they're under 120k and look nice I'm interested, if not no biggie. So when I bash it on a rock I don't have downtime getting a new pan.

I've got some 617 goodies to trade too if you need anything let me know.

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-03-2014, 12:46 PM #4

You might have better luck with the 617 than I did with the 4.0L. I had to pull the fan shroud, fan, loosen the front crossmember, etc. to just barely wiggle the radiator out.

I'd like a spare fuel rail, mine's got rust inside the bores where the injectors go When I swap injectors I'm afraid it's going to scrape the orings.

The coil assy/pan would just be spares-so if they're under 120k and look nice I'm interested, if not no biggie. So when I bash it on a rock I don't have downtime getting a new pan.

I've got some 617 goodies to trade too if you need anything let me know.


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
10-03-2014, 06:27 PM #5
I need to look at the fuel rail cause i removed it with the injectors on, the oil pan is nice the coils are good, but the truck has 189 but was working fine, probably was replaced, let me get home and i will keep writing
carlitosgy6
10-03-2014, 06:27 PM #5

I need to look at the fuel rail cause i removed it with the injectors on, the oil pan is nice the coils are good, but the truck has 189 but was working fine, probably was replaced, let me get home and i will keep writing

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
10-03-2014, 08:39 PM #6
[Image: 20140925_191033_zpsvtcksidj.jpg]4.0 in a xj are a tight fit, many years ago i had to replace a fan clutch, hard as hell, here some pictures from the trans adapter, the pilot bushing process and the engine mockup to see where everything fits, seems that in this one i can fit the om617 912 intake, no way on my ranger but the ac compressor looks tight, 508 sanden cause the r4 from gm i think doesn't fit[Image: 20140902_164952_zpstkkxscfs.jpg]
I had to plug that odd hole, i threaded it and put a bolt through, done[Image: 20140902_145643_zps7zgudqdk.jpg]
This lathe i don't know why is doing those grooves when facing, is the same pitch as the leadscrew
[Image: 20140905_121130_zpstcn8hwbi.jpg]
Adapter in process
[Image: 20140925_183529_zpsxhek7ol9.jpg]
Adapter ready
[Image: 20140927_184105_zpsphlpu3t7.jpg][Image: 20140927_184115_zpsdf7u7hh5.jpg]
Trans adapter in process, our crazy way
[Image: 20140929_170427_zpsqcjjejhl.jpg]
[Image: 20140929_180525_zpsuvooz4y1.jpg]
Thats a t6061 aluminum plate
[Image: 20140929_180537_zpskjvj8uko.jpg]
Transfer punches done ready to drill
[Image: 20140930_135106_zps1o5uxjqe.jpg]
This post was last modified: 10-03-2014, 08:46 PM by carlitosgy6.
carlitosgy6
10-03-2014, 08:39 PM #6

[Image: 20140925_191033_zpsvtcksidj.jpg]4.0 in a xj are a tight fit, many years ago i had to replace a fan clutch, hard as hell, here some pictures from the trans adapter, the pilot bushing process and the engine mockup to see where everything fits, seems that in this one i can fit the om617 912 intake, no way on my ranger but the ac compressor looks tight, 508 sanden cause the r4 from gm i think doesn't fit[Image: 20140902_164952_zpstkkxscfs.jpg]
I had to plug that odd hole, i threaded it and put a bolt through, done[Image: 20140902_145643_zps7zgudqdk.jpg]
This lathe i don't know why is doing those grooves when facing, is the same pitch as the leadscrew
[Image: 20140905_121130_zpstcn8hwbi.jpg]
Adapter in process
[Image: 20140925_183529_zpsxhek7ol9.jpg]
Adapter ready
[Image: 20140927_184105_zpsphlpu3t7.jpg][Image: 20140927_184115_zpsdf7u7hh5.jpg]
Trans adapter in process, our crazy way
[Image: 20140929_170427_zpsqcjjejhl.jpg]
[Image: 20140929_180525_zpsuvooz4y1.jpg]
Thats a t6061 aluminum plate
[Image: 20140929_180537_zpskjvj8uko.jpg]
Transfer punches done ready to drill
[Image: 20140930_135106_zps1o5uxjqe.jpg]

sassparilla_kid
diesel > all other fuels

1,618
10-04-2014, 06:07 PM #7
I think grooves come from moving the cutter too quickly?

-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
10-04-2014, 06:07 PM #7

I think grooves come from moving the cutter too quickly?


-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
10-06-2014, 06:08 AM #8
(10-04-2014, 06:07 PM)sassparilla_kid I think grooves come from moving the cutter too quickly?

Is not just a groove, is a wave and i tried everything to fix it, super slow or super fast, slow make it worst, if i do it fast then i have the regular bad finish plus the wave, there is a problem somewhere
This post was last modified: 10-06-2014, 06:10 AM by carlitosgy6.
carlitosgy6
10-06-2014, 06:08 AM #8

(10-04-2014, 06:07 PM)sassparilla_kid I think grooves come from moving the cutter too quickly?

Is not just a groove, is a wave and i tried everything to fix it, super slow or super fast, slow make it worst, if i do it fast then i have the regular bad finish plus the wave, there is a problem somewhere

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
10-06-2014, 07:58 AM #9
Your cutting tool is sticking out too far, you want it as short as possible. When it's long like that it flexes and gives a bad finish.

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-06-2014, 07:58 AM #9

Your cutting tool is sticking out too far, you want it as short as possible. When it's long like that it flexes and gives a bad finish.


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
10-08-2014, 11:52 AM #10
(10-03-2014, 12:46 PM)Simpler=Better You might have better luck with the 617 than I did with the 4.0L. I had to pull the fan shroud, fan, loosen the front crossmember, etc. to just barely wiggle the radiator out.

I'd like a spare fuel rail, mine's got rust inside the bores where the injectors go When I swap injectors I'm afraid it's going to scrape the orings.

The coil assy/pan would just be spares-so if they're under 120k and look nice I'm interested, if not no biggie. So when I bash it on a rock I don't have downtime getting a new pan.

I've got some 617 goodies to trade too if you need anything let me know.
Im sorry for taking so long to answer im busy as hell, I have the oil pan, perfect condition the coils are there the fuel rail with injectors are therw the alternator im going to use it, anything else? I need a turbo exhaust manifold if you have it
[Image: 20141008_124222_zpsoo6gjazc.jpg]
[Image: 20141008_124244_zpsteno4odf.jpg]
carlitosgy6
10-08-2014, 11:52 AM #10

(10-03-2014, 12:46 PM)Simpler=Better You might have better luck with the 617 than I did with the 4.0L. I had to pull the fan shroud, fan, loosen the front crossmember, etc. to just barely wiggle the radiator out.

I'd like a spare fuel rail, mine's got rust inside the bores where the injectors go When I swap injectors I'm afraid it's going to scrape the orings.

The coil assy/pan would just be spares-so if they're under 120k and look nice I'm interested, if not no biggie. So when I bash it on a rock I don't have downtime getting a new pan.

I've got some 617 goodies to trade too if you need anything let me know.
Im sorry for taking so long to answer im busy as hell, I have the oil pan, perfect condition the coils are there the fuel rail with injectors are therw the alternator im going to use it, anything else? I need a turbo exhaust manifold if you have it
[Image: 20141008_124222_zpsoo6gjazc.jpg]
[Image: 20141008_124244_zpsteno4odf.jpg]

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
10-10-2014, 06:36 PM #11
pm sent, I've got a buncha junk Smile

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-10-2014, 06:36 PM #11

pm sent, I've got a buncha junk Smile


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
10-21-2014, 07:21 PM #12
I'm back!!! I was busy at the shop but this weekend i put many hours on that oil pan, almost done just missing the turbo drain pipe and the oil change plug, tomorrow i think i will be able to finish it plus powder coat superdurable black
[Image: 20141019_154305_zpsiqkggn9j.jpg]
[Image: 20141019_154259_zpsejeggyaz.jpg]
[Image: 20141019_154247_zpsbziybxd8.jpg]
[Image: 20141020_170628_zpsf0qgaq0d.jpg]
[Image: 20141020_170830_zpsyxrg7zyr.jpg][Image: 20141020_170639_zpsv0gale5o.jpg]
carlitosgy6
10-21-2014, 07:21 PM #12

I'm back!!! I was busy at the shop but this weekend i put many hours on that oil pan, almost done just missing the turbo drain pipe and the oil change plug, tomorrow i think i will be able to finish it plus powder coat superdurable black
[Image: 20141019_154305_zpsiqkggn9j.jpg]
[Image: 20141019_154259_zpsejeggyaz.jpg]
[Image: 20141019_154247_zpsbziybxd8.jpg]
[Image: 20141020_170628_zpsf0qgaq0d.jpg]
[Image: 20141020_170830_zpsyxrg7zyr.jpg][Image: 20141020_170639_zpsv0gale5o.jpg]

wolverine
TA 0301

57
10-24-2014, 09:58 PM #13
Whats that pan hold? Like 80 quarts? Holy shit, oil changes are gonna be expensive.
wolverine
10-24-2014, 09:58 PM #13

Whats that pan hold? Like 80 quarts? Holy shit, oil changes are gonna be expensive.

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
10-24-2014, 10:02 PM #14
(10-24-2014, 09:58 PM)wolverine Whats that pan hold? Like 80 quarts? Holy shit, oil changes are gonna be expensive.

It holds 5 quarts exactly, the same amount of oil as the stock turbo oil pan, if you look closely is deep but not wide
carlitosgy6
10-24-2014, 10:02 PM #14

(10-24-2014, 09:58 PM)wolverine Whats that pan hold? Like 80 quarts? Holy shit, oil changes are gonna be expensive.

It holds 5 quarts exactly, the same amount of oil as the stock turbo oil pan, if you look closely is deep but not wide

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
10-30-2014, 08:02 AM #15
Hi, everything is going on good with the project, somebody knows how to install a new rope seal properly? The last 2 leaked more then the old ones
carlitosgy6
10-30-2014, 08:02 AM #15

Hi, everything is going on good with the project, somebody knows how to install a new rope seal properly? The last 2 leaked more then the old ones

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
10-30-2014, 09:29 AM #16
You need to pulll the crank, and trim it so the seal sticks up a certain amount before torquing it all down. There's a detailed set of instructions over on peachparts

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-30-2014, 09:29 AM #16

You need to pulll the crank, and trim it so the seal sticks up a certain amount before torquing it all down. There's a detailed set of instructions over on peachparts


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
10-30-2014, 06:55 PM #17
We're still on the deal?
carlitosgy6
10-30-2014, 06:55 PM #17

We're still on the deal?

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
10-31-2014, 08:09 AM #18
Sorry, it's been crazy here. I'll get my spare dug out of the shed & in the mail asap.

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-31-2014, 08:09 AM #18

Sorry, it's been crazy here. I'll get my spare dug out of the shed & in the mail asap.


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
04-06-2015, 12:04 PM #19
After a long time I'm working again on the swap, oil pan done and powdercoated, turbo on place im modifying the na intake so it doesn't hit the turbo, i will put some hours on to this Cherokee on the next weeks
carlitosgy6
04-06-2015, 12:04 PM #19

After a long time I'm working again on the swap, oil pan done and powdercoated, turbo on place im modifying the na intake so it doesn't hit the turbo, i will put some hours on to this Cherokee on the next weeks

sorin_cel
5fingers on a hand, 5cylinders block

71
04-19-2015, 08:39 AM #20
hello mate Smile . how will the gearbox change gears, considering that it's no communication to the engine's ECU?
sorin_cel
04-19-2015, 08:39 AM #20

hello mate Smile . how will the gearbox change gears, considering that it's no communication to the engine's ECU?

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
04-19-2015, 10:18 PM #21
(04-19-2015, 08:39 AM)sorin_cel hello mate Smile . how will the gearbox change gears, considering that it's no communication to the engine's ECU?

Thats transmission is a aw4 from a Cherokee it has a standalone ecm to run it
carlitosgy6
04-19-2015, 10:18 PM #21

(04-19-2015, 08:39 AM)sorin_cel hello mate Smile . how will the gearbox change gears, considering that it's no communication to the engine's ECU?

Thats transmission is a aw4 from a Cherokee it has a standalone ecm to run it

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
04-20-2015, 05:52 PM #22
this weekend i put some hours on the proyect,at any moment i will begin to build the alternator and a c compressor brackets,lets see if i can run the engine next week,turbo is ready i just rebuilded it but installed a .60 ar 60 trim t3 compressor from a  ford svo ,lets see how it works,looking better
[Image: 20150417_131240_zps1epg6wl6.jpg][Image: 20150417_131248_zpsbs0xiidn.jpg][Image: 20150417_131226_zpst1cfcjxb.jpg][Image: 20150417_191340_zpsud3ihgvi.jpg][Image: 20150418_181245_zps8h7jxw9d.jpg]
carlitosgy6
04-20-2015, 05:52 PM #22

this weekend i put some hours on the proyect,at any moment i will begin to build the alternator and a c compressor brackets,lets see if i can run the engine next week,turbo is ready i just rebuilded it but installed a .60 ar 60 trim t3 compressor from a  ford svo ,lets see how it works,looking better
[Image: 20150417_131240_zps1epg6wl6.jpg][Image: 20150417_131248_zpsbs0xiidn.jpg][Image: 20150417_131226_zpst1cfcjxb.jpg][Image: 20150417_191340_zpsud3ihgvi.jpg][Image: 20150418_181245_zps8h7jxw9d.jpg]

sorin_cel
5fingers on a hand, 5cylinders block

71
04-23-2015, 02:59 PM #23
very nice look! Smile 
sorin_cel
04-23-2015, 02:59 PM #23

very nice look! Smile 

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
04-23-2015, 06:16 PM #24
(04-23-2015, 02:59 PM)sorin_cel very nice look! Smile 

Thank you very much, i just  powdercoated the oil filter canister lets see if in the weekend i can see the engine running 
carlitosgy6
04-23-2015, 06:16 PM #24

(04-23-2015, 02:59 PM)sorin_cel very nice look! Smile 

Thank you very much, i just  powdercoated the oil filter canister lets see if in the weekend i can see the engine running 

wolverine
TA 0301

57
04-23-2015, 09:22 PM #25
Badass!  That valve cover looks sick :thumbsup:

Did you use a high temp ceramic coat on the exhaust manifold and turbo hot side?
wolverine
04-23-2015, 09:22 PM #25

Badass!  That valve cover looks sick :thumbsup:

Did you use a high temp ceramic coat on the exhaust manifold and turbo hot side?

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
04-23-2015, 09:32 PM #26
Thanks, Yes 2000°oven baked ceramic black gloss
carlitosgy6
04-23-2015, 09:32 PM #26

Thanks, Yes 2000°oven baked ceramic black gloss

Brewster
Turbo Diesel

7
04-29-2015, 12:32 AM #27
This looks like an awesome build. Interesting idea for a flywheel adapter, looks like it might be quite tight to get the bolts in the torque convertor on the AW4. Btw, is it a locking converter?
Its electronics are stand alone, does it have a tv or kickdown cable to know throttle position?
I've been contemplating an OM617 project with the motor and trans from a 300SD I have as well.
Brewster
04-29-2015, 12:32 AM #27

This looks like an awesome build. Interesting idea for a flywheel adapter, looks like it might be quite tight to get the bolts in the torque convertor on the AW4. Btw, is it a locking converter?
Its electronics are stand alone, does it have a tv or kickdown cable to know throttle position?
I've been contemplating an OM617 project with the motor and trans from a 300SD I have as well.

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
05-07-2015, 02:24 PM #28
Thanks, the bolts are easy through the starter area, i think is a locking converter, the kick down cable is used to regulate the fluid press, it uses a tps to locate throttle position and im positive that it uses the speed sensor on the tail also, where you are going to install that engine?
carlitosgy6
05-07-2015, 02:24 PM #28

Thanks, the bolts are easy through the starter area, i think is a locking converter, the kick down cable is used to regulate the fluid press, it uses a tps to locate throttle position and im positive that it uses the speed sensor on the tail also, where you are going to install that engine?

Brewster
Turbo Diesel

7
05-10-2015, 01:26 AM #29
Ah, what is your plan for the TPS, its on the throttle body if i recall?
I had thought about putting the OM617 in an AWD Aerostar, way better mileage then the 4.0L and possibly using the AW4 from a Jeep as adapters for that are already available. The AW4 as you said is stand-alone and I like the AWD NP242 transfercase. The 617 in the Aerostar though would be really difficult to do services on however being where the oil filter housing is located and a few other things being really tight access in the van. Am now looking at putting the OM617 in my 87 TBird, 3.8 V6 which needs work and has an AOD and 3.27 rear end. It would actually be close on power and should fit well in the engine compartment. Not sure if I want to adapt the Mercedes to the AOD or use the 722 trans as well which though is a 4spd, isn't an overdrive  and doesn't have a locking torque convertor.
Brewster
05-10-2015, 01:26 AM #29

Ah, what is your plan for the TPS, its on the throttle body if i recall?
I had thought about putting the OM617 in an AWD Aerostar, way better mileage then the 4.0L and possibly using the AW4 from a Jeep as adapters for that are already available. The AW4 as you said is stand-alone and I like the AWD NP242 transfercase. The 617 in the Aerostar though would be really difficult to do services on however being where the oil filter housing is located and a few other things being really tight access in the van. Am now looking at putting the OM617 in my 87 TBird, 3.8 V6 which needs work and has an AOD and 3.27 rear end. It would actually be close on power and should fit well in the engine compartment. Not sure if I want to adapt the Mercedes to the AOD or use the 722 trans as well which though is a 4spd, isn't an overdrive  and doesn't have a locking torque convertor.

carlitosgy6
Ranger Turbodiesel

144
05-10-2015, 05:09 AM #30
Hi, I'm planning to install the tps on the stop lever located on the valve cover, it has almost the same travel as a throttle you can relocate the oil filter housing to a better spot, i dont recommend replacing the filter assembly because it has the thermostat control for the oil cooler, i did some research and the aw4 was the (best) choice for my jeep being a very strong trans, i destroyed a few aod on my mustang before getting a c4,i just rebuilt it and resisted a lot of punishment
carlitosgy6
05-10-2015, 05:09 AM #30

Hi, I'm planning to install the tps on the stop lever located on the valve cover, it has almost the same travel as a throttle you can relocate the oil filter housing to a better spot, i dont recommend replacing the filter assembly because it has the thermostat control for the oil cooler, i did some research and the aw4 was the (best) choice for my jeep being a very strong trans, i destroyed a few aod on my mustang before getting a c4,i just rebuilt it and resisted a lot of punishment

 
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