stock lift pump output
stock lift pump output
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
short video of the output of a 617 stock lift pump. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=narBhZQLCg8
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
08-09-2009, 03:52 PM #2Where is the stock lift pump located? Is it built in to the injection pump?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
ForcedInduction
08-09-2009, 07:32 PM
#4
You should stretch your relief valve spring, those pressures are right at the minimum.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
yeah, and thats even with the fuel plumbed in a closed loop which artificially jumps the pressure. subtract about 4 psi for both idle and load. I have another complete new lift pump. Is it worth stretching the spring, or should I just swap em? Thats the original lift pump
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
Is the LP new new? If so I would replace it. Rebuilding them is fairly easy but the seats of the valves need to be lapped. There was a great thread on it somewhere with pics of how pitted the LP could become.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(08-10-2009, 09:25 AM)winmutt Is the LP new new? If so I would replace it. Rebuilding them is fairly easy but the seats of the valves need to be lapped. There was a great thread on it somewhere with pics of how pitted the LP could become.
Its new new out of the box. Got it a while back when I airlocked the car for about a week 250 miles from my house. At the time, I was convinced it was the lift pump.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(08-10-2009, 09:25 AM)winmutt Is the LP new new? If so I would replace it. Rebuilding them is fairly easy but the seats of the valves need to be lapped. There was a great thread on it somewhere with pics of how pitted the LP could become.
Its new new out of the box. Got it a while back when I airlocked the car for about a week 250 miles from my house. At the time, I was convinced it was the lift pump.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
08-11-2009, 12:14 PM #10What did you do to relive the air lock?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
I then used a questionable method I have used on a number of IDI ford 7.3s with a mechanical lift pump (which works AWESOME for air locks on those trucks by the way depending on where you connect the pump). I took my hand vacuum pump, disconnected the return line, closed all the injector lines, hooked the vacuum pump up to the return line from the engine and drew it down to 30 inches of vacuum.
I had someone crank the motor over. I kept pumping the vacuum pump while they were cranking, keeping high vacuum on the return on the theory of- fluid may move easier being pulled and pushed at the same time. Started after about 10 or 15 revolutions, quickly disconnected the line and re-plumbed it while it was running.
This only worked because of the oddball plumbing on the car. It would not have worked if the return line was still hooked up to the filter head.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
I first filled the fuel tank (original air lock reason), drew fuel all the way up through the lift pump with a hand vacuum pump, ( I could have used the hand primer pump, but I thought that was the problem) cracked all the injectors and cranked the hell out of it with my foot to the floor. That was not working very well, (partially because of a VO system plumbing complication which was the root cause of the continued air lock), otherwise it would have worked fine.
I then used a questionable method I have used on a number of IDI ford 7.3s with a mechanical lift pump (which works AWESOME for air locks on those trucks by the way depending on where you connect the pump). I took my hand vacuum pump, disconnected the return line, closed all the injector lines, hooked the vacuum pump up to the return line from the engine and drew it down to 30 inches of vacuum.
I had someone crank the motor over. I kept pumping the vacuum pump while they were cranking, keeping high vacuum on the return on the theory of- fluid may move easier being pulled and pushed at the same time. Started after about 10 or 15 revolutions, quickly disconnected the line and re-plumbed it while it was running.
This only worked because of the oddball plumbing on the car. It would not have worked if the return line was still hooked up to the filter head.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
08-11-2009, 04:16 PM #12weird I have replace the injectors in my car several times! and I put it back together with out pumping it or doing anything just crank until it start! usually 1 min of cranking or so it self bleeds for me
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
Supply and return travel through separate electric switching valves. The vehicle is hard plumbed so that it is always running in a closed loop, and the return line is only used when you activate the return valve. This works just fine 90% of the time and mostly is a nice benefit for fuel restriction and winter heat retention.
The other 10% is when some air gets sucked into the closed loop and stays there. You then have to open the loop with the return valve. My mistake was that I had the return valve running off of a relay that was itself signaled by a key on source. The key on source was affected by cranking, like most vehicles.
What this meant was that I would hold the button to open the return line, crank the motor to start it up and the act of cranking would inadvertently close the return valve and line, keeping the air within the loop. Whoops.
Took a little while to realize just what the issue was. I have since added an emergency push button switch that reroutes power to the return valve directly from the battery in the even of another air lock.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
its all about the plumbing I have going on. If it were stock, Id probably be able to un-airlock it as easily. The main issue at the time was a fairly boneheaded mistake I made.
Supply and return travel through separate electric switching valves. The vehicle is hard plumbed so that it is always running in a closed loop, and the return line is only used when you activate the return valve. This works just fine 90% of the time and mostly is a nice benefit for fuel restriction and winter heat retention.
The other 10% is when some air gets sucked into the closed loop and stays there. You then have to open the loop with the return valve. My mistake was that I had the return valve running off of a relay that was itself signaled by a key on source. The key on source was affected by cranking, like most vehicles.
What this meant was that I would hold the button to open the return line, crank the motor to start it up and the act of cranking would inadvertently close the return valve and line, keeping the air within the loop. Whoops.
Took a little while to realize just what the issue was. I have since added an emergency push button switch that reroutes power to the return valve directly from the battery in the even of another air lock.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
08-14-2009, 01:33 PM #14OK that makes more seance sound like a cool set up anyways!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
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