STD Other Trucks, semis, vans, transporters and mogs. '92 Dodge Dakota : OM617 Conversion

'92 Dodge Dakota : OM617 Conversion

'92 Dodge Dakota : OM617 Conversion

 
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74Dusted
Naturally-aspirated

16
10-31-2014, 08:25 AM #1
New here, prepping to swap an OM617 into my Dodge Dakota.

A friend of mine offered me the OM617 and Overdrive Automatic transmission from a car he was cutting up, and since the 5.2L Magnum in my truck was on its last leg (3 dead cylinders, the other 5 ranged between 50 and 70psi) I couldn't pass up the deal since it was cheaper than a used/junkyard 5.2L Magnum. And why not, diesel conversions are easy. Years ago I replaced the 2.6L in my D50 with a 2.3L Turbo Diesel (then replaced that with a 2.5L Intercooled Turbo Diesel) When the 2.5L died I converted back to gas...V8 Big Grin


Here's the creature, a '92 ClubCab Dakota 4x4. Paint sucks, but the rest of the truck is solid.

[Image: S5000433.jpg]

[Image: IMG_0244_zps5339bb53.jpg]

[Image: image_zps9aecd354.jpg]

The plan is to drop in the OM617 and matching Automatic, with a Divorced NP205 Transfer Case, at least until I gather up the parts to convert it over to an NV3500 5-Speed.

Eventually 'turn it up' a bit, to coax a little more power out of it. I've done some reading on it, sad to find out it's not as easy as turning up a VE Pump'ed engine (2.3L/2.5L, Cummins, etc). As long as I can get it to put out somewhere above the stock numbers (the closer to the stock 5.2L numbers, the better) I'd be happy. It doesn't need to be a tire burning monster that will burn the tires through every gear, I've got my Duster for that.

As far as parts, I still have a bunch of the stuff left from the days when my D50 had a diesel. Water Separator/Fuel Filter/Fuel Heater, Indicator Lights/Information Center (WIF, Fuel Heater, Glow Plugs, etc), Boost Gauge, Pyrometer, etc. The only thing I'll have to buy, that I can think of is a Fuel Pressure Regulator to drop the pressure down from the In-Tank Fuel Pump, and a Tachometer Converter to use the factory V8 Dakota Tach with the OM617.

'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833
74Dusted
10-31-2014, 08:25 AM #1

New here, prepping to swap an OM617 into my Dodge Dakota.

A friend of mine offered me the OM617 and Overdrive Automatic transmission from a car he was cutting up, and since the 5.2L Magnum in my truck was on its last leg (3 dead cylinders, the other 5 ranged between 50 and 70psi) I couldn't pass up the deal since it was cheaper than a used/junkyard 5.2L Magnum. And why not, diesel conversions are easy. Years ago I replaced the 2.6L in my D50 with a 2.3L Turbo Diesel (then replaced that with a 2.5L Intercooled Turbo Diesel) When the 2.5L died I converted back to gas...V8 Big Grin


Here's the creature, a '92 ClubCab Dakota 4x4. Paint sucks, but the rest of the truck is solid.

[Image: S5000433.jpg]

[Image: IMG_0244_zps5339bb53.jpg]

[Image: image_zps9aecd354.jpg]

The plan is to drop in the OM617 and matching Automatic, with a Divorced NP205 Transfer Case, at least until I gather up the parts to convert it over to an NV3500 5-Speed.

Eventually 'turn it up' a bit, to coax a little more power out of it. I've done some reading on it, sad to find out it's not as easy as turning up a VE Pump'ed engine (2.3L/2.5L, Cummins, etc). As long as I can get it to put out somewhere above the stock numbers (the closer to the stock 5.2L numbers, the better) I'd be happy. It doesn't need to be a tire burning monster that will burn the tires through every gear, I've got my Duster for that.

As far as parts, I still have a bunch of the stuff left from the days when my D50 had a diesel. Water Separator/Fuel Filter/Fuel Heater, Indicator Lights/Information Center (WIF, Fuel Heater, Glow Plugs, etc), Boost Gauge, Pyrometer, etc. The only thing I'll have to buy, that I can think of is a Fuel Pressure Regulator to drop the pressure down from the In-Tank Fuel Pump, and a Tachometer Converter to use the factory V8 Dakota Tach with the OM617.


'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
10-31-2014, 09:37 AM #2
The best bang for the buck (after doing valve adjustments, injector service, timing, etc.) is to get a pyrometer installed pre-turbo, boost gauge, and a manual boost controller. Then turn up the boost to 13, and tweak the pump internals.

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-31-2014, 09:37 AM #2

The best bang for the buck (after doing valve adjustments, injector service, timing, etc.) is to get a pyrometer installed pre-turbo, boost gauge, and a manual boost controller. Then turn up the boost to 13, and tweak the pump internals.


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

74Dusted
Naturally-aspirated

16
10-31-2014, 01:15 PM #3
(10-31-2014, 09:37 AM)Simpler=Better The best bang for the buck (after doing valve adjustments, injector service, timing, etc.) is to get a pyrometer installed pre-turbo, boost gauge, and a manual boost controller. Then turn up the boost to 13, and tweak the pump internals.

All stuff I had in mind. I have a pyrometer and boost gauge leftover from my d50, along with a manual/adjustable boost controller.

Valve adjustment is at the top of my list, my friend gave me a bunch of new gaskets with the engine in case I ever needed them and recommended adjusting the valves. It also appears to have brand new injectors and glow plugs. The MW pump looks fairly fresh too, with a tag attached to it (didn't take a close look yet) and fresh paint covering every bolt (anti-tampering seals perhaps?)

'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833
74Dusted
10-31-2014, 01:15 PM #3

(10-31-2014, 09:37 AM)Simpler=Better The best bang for the buck (after doing valve adjustments, injector service, timing, etc.) is to get a pyrometer installed pre-turbo, boost gauge, and a manual boost controller. Then turn up the boost to 13, and tweak the pump internals.

All stuff I had in mind. I have a pyrometer and boost gauge leftover from my d50, along with a manual/adjustable boost controller.

Valve adjustment is at the top of my list, my friend gave me a bunch of new gaskets with the engine in case I ever needed them and recommended adjusting the valves. It also appears to have brand new injectors and glow plugs. The MW pump looks fairly fresh too, with a tag attached to it (didn't take a close look yet) and fresh paint covering every bolt (anti-tampering seals perhaps?)


'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
10-31-2014, 01:26 PM #4
Cool, don't touch the outside bolts. There's a big thread in the sticky, read om616's document on pump tweaking you can adjust the totrque curve to a lower ranger and slightly increase the output.

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
10-31-2014, 01:26 PM #4

Cool, don't touch the outside bolts. There's a big thread in the sticky, read om616's document on pump tweaking you can adjust the totrque curve to a lower ranger and slightly increase the output.


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

74Dusted
Naturally-aspirated

16
11-03-2014, 08:24 AM #5
I didn't see a tweaking/modding thread by OM616, maybe I'm looking in the wrong spot.

Not in a particularly big rush, I need to put the gas tank and bed back on my '92 D50 4x4 (huge D50 fan, they've always been my go-to vehicle of choice for reliability, mileage and modifications).

I figured with the '84 D50 and '92 D50 it would give me 2 reliable 4x4's to fall back on while I work potential bugs out of the OM617 Dakota. Learned a long time ago to have a backup vehicle when you start going into uncharted territory of engine swaps

EDIT : looks like I'll be jumping straight into the Manual Transmission conversion at the same time as the OM617 swap. A friend of my dad's, who owns a junkyard offered me my pick of a complete 5-Speed setup (transmission, bellhousing, flywheel, transfer case, driveshafts, clutch/brake pedal setup, etc) from a 4x4 Dakota of my choice, for $200.

So I'm going to fabricate an OM617 to Small Block Mopar Adapter, I'll machine the flywheel to fit the OM617. The only thing I probably won't be able to handle is balancing the Mopar Flywheel to match the 617. I'll farm that job out to the performance shop that machined the crankshaft in my 6-71 Blown Duster. Unless the 617 is Neutral Balance/Internally Balanced, in which case I could use a 3.9L/273/318/340 Mopar Flywheel.

Anyone know if the 617 is Internally Balanced/Neutral Balance, or External Balance?
This post was last modified: 11-03-2014, 04:00 PM by 74Dusted.

'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833
74Dusted
11-03-2014, 08:24 AM #5

I didn't see a tweaking/modding thread by OM616, maybe I'm looking in the wrong spot.

Not in a particularly big rush, I need to put the gas tank and bed back on my '92 D50 4x4 (huge D50 fan, they've always been my go-to vehicle of choice for reliability, mileage and modifications).

I figured with the '84 D50 and '92 D50 it would give me 2 reliable 4x4's to fall back on while I work potential bugs out of the OM617 Dakota. Learned a long time ago to have a backup vehicle when you start going into uncharted territory of engine swaps

EDIT : looks like I'll be jumping straight into the Manual Transmission conversion at the same time as the OM617 swap. A friend of my dad's, who owns a junkyard offered me my pick of a complete 5-Speed setup (transmission, bellhousing, flywheel, transfer case, driveshafts, clutch/brake pedal setup, etc) from a 4x4 Dakota of my choice, for $200.

So I'm going to fabricate an OM617 to Small Block Mopar Adapter, I'll machine the flywheel to fit the OM617. The only thing I probably won't be able to handle is balancing the Mopar Flywheel to match the 617. I'll farm that job out to the performance shop that machined the crankshaft in my 6-71 Blown Duster. Unless the 617 is Neutral Balance/Internally Balanced, in which case I could use a 3.9L/273/318/340 Mopar Flywheel.

Anyone know if the 617 is Internally Balanced/Neutral Balance, or External Balance?


'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833

Petar
7.5mm M pump

459
11-03-2014, 05:14 PM #6
Take the auto flywheel and have it match balanced to the new one. Some 617 engines have a neutral balance flywheel and some don't, differs from engine to engine.
Petar
11-03-2014, 05:14 PM #6

Take the auto flywheel and have it match balanced to the new one. Some 617 engines have a neutral balance flywheel and some don't, differs from engine to engine.

74Dusted
Naturally-aspirated

16
11-03-2014, 06:20 PM #7
(11-03-2014, 05:14 PM)Petar Take the auto flywheel and have it match balanced to the new one. Some 617 engines have a neutral balance flywheel and some don't, differs from engine to engine.

That'd be a job for the shop that did the crank in my 340 then. Is there anyway to tell a Neutral Balance 617 Auto Flywheel from a External Balance 617 Auto Flywheel? Part Number, size of the holes/number of the holes?

The one on my 617 looks like a neutral balance flywheel...IF I was to look at it like it was a mopar flywheel. Small holes drilled in the outer perimeter of the flywheel, equal spacing, just like the ones I'd see on a Neutral Balance 11" or 13" 318 Mopar Truck Flywheel. Of course that might be enough to mess with me, since I'm new to Mercs and just using mopar info here.

'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833
74Dusted
11-03-2014, 06:20 PM #7

(11-03-2014, 05:14 PM)Petar Take the auto flywheel and have it match balanced to the new one. Some 617 engines have a neutral balance flywheel and some don't, differs from engine to engine.

That'd be a job for the shop that did the crank in my 340 then. Is there anyway to tell a Neutral Balance 617 Auto Flywheel from a External Balance 617 Auto Flywheel? Part Number, size of the holes/number of the holes?

The one on my 617 looks like a neutral balance flywheel...IF I was to look at it like it was a mopar flywheel. Small holes drilled in the outer perimeter of the flywheel, equal spacing, just like the ones I'd see on a Neutral Balance 11" or 13" 318 Mopar Truck Flywheel. Of course that might be enough to mess with me, since I'm new to Mercs and just using mopar info here.


'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833

74Dusted
Naturally-aspirated

16
11-05-2014, 10:05 AM #8
I apologize for the Double Post, but I figured you guys might find this interesting.

[Image: image_zps572347ae.jpg]

[Image: image_zpsf9085b0f.jpg]

[Image: image_zpsf9c43f17.jpg]

This is a "Wide Block" KM145 5-Speed Manual Transmission from a Dodge D50 4x4. The bolt pattern is almost identical to the OM617, with the exception of 2 bolt holes (one where the factory OM617 Starter mounts, and another that would have to be drilled on the Left Side toward the bottom). The oil filter would have to be relocated, since the Starter for a D50 is in that exact same spot.

I still have to verify if everything else matches up perfectly, that'll have to wait until I can get it in the shop for measurements. Since the day the engine arrived, I kept thinking "That looks like a mitsu-itchy bellhousing...like the one that was in my '84 and the one in my '92 D50"

'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833
74Dusted
11-05-2014, 10:05 AM #8

I apologize for the Double Post, but I figured you guys might find this interesting.

[Image: image_zps572347ae.jpg]

[Image: image_zpsf9085b0f.jpg]

[Image: image_zpsf9c43f17.jpg]

This is a "Wide Block" KM145 5-Speed Manual Transmission from a Dodge D50 4x4. The bolt pattern is almost identical to the OM617, with the exception of 2 bolt holes (one where the factory OM617 Starter mounts, and another that would have to be drilled on the Left Side toward the bottom). The oil filter would have to be relocated, since the Starter for a D50 is in that exact same spot.

I still have to verify if everything else matches up perfectly, that'll have to wait until I can get it in the shop for measurements. Since the day the engine arrived, I kept thinking "That looks like a mitsu-itchy bellhousing...like the one that was in my '84 and the one in my '92 D50"


'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833

MFSuper90
Budget Builder

1,533
11-05-2014, 01:51 PM #9
Interesting... But the starter is on opposite sides, correct?

'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         
MFSuper90
11-05-2014, 01:51 PM #9

Interesting... But the starter is on opposite sides, correct?


'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         

74Dusted
Naturally-aspirated

16
11-05-2014, 02:43 PM #10
(11-05-2014, 01:51 PM)MFSuper90 Interesting... But the starter is on opposite sides, correct?

Yeah, the starter is on the opposite side. Which would require a Remote/Relocated Oil Filter and a notch in the OM617 Adapter Plate for the starter fit in place.

Or, I could remove the 617 Adapter and bolt on a Wide Block Adapter Plate from a 2.3TD/2.4/2.5TD/2.6 Mitsu (I have a spare plate from a 2.6, and the one from my 2.3/2.5 Turbo Diesel setup), which would have the starter cutout on the correct side.

If I use the Mitsu 2.3/2.4/2.5/2.6 Adapter Plate, I'd only have to relocate the oil filter and drill a Mitsu Flywheel for the 617 Pattern. Fortunately I could use a 2.3/2.5 Diesel Gear Reduction Starter with that setup too.

Of course that's IF the Input Shaft on the D50 5-Speed perfectly matches up to the 617. I won't know that until I get the engine into the shop to check everything. And that might take me a little bit of time, since my '92 D50 is sitting in the shop right now (installing new fuel lines, brake lines, hoses, shocks, etc)

'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833
74Dusted
11-05-2014, 02:43 PM #10

(11-05-2014, 01:51 PM)MFSuper90 Interesting... But the starter is on opposite sides, correct?

Yeah, the starter is on the opposite side. Which would require a Remote/Relocated Oil Filter and a notch in the OM617 Adapter Plate for the starter fit in place.

Or, I could remove the 617 Adapter and bolt on a Wide Block Adapter Plate from a 2.3TD/2.4/2.5TD/2.6 Mitsu (I have a spare plate from a 2.6, and the one from my 2.3/2.5 Turbo Diesel setup), which would have the starter cutout on the correct side.

If I use the Mitsu 2.3/2.4/2.5/2.6 Adapter Plate, I'd only have to relocate the oil filter and drill a Mitsu Flywheel for the 617 Pattern. Fortunately I could use a 2.3/2.5 Diesel Gear Reduction Starter with that setup too.

Of course that's IF the Input Shaft on the D50 5-Speed perfectly matches up to the 617. I won't know that until I get the engine into the shop to check everything. And that might take me a little bit of time, since my '92 D50 is sitting in the shop right now (installing new fuel lines, brake lines, hoses, shocks, etc)


'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833

74Dusted
Naturally-aspirated

16
07-22-2015, 09:58 PM #11
Been a long while since I posted any updates.

Engine/Transmission are in the truck. I ended up keeping the Merc Auto trans behind the 617 for now, until I can get around to gathering up everything for a 5-Speed Manual Swap.


Out with the beat 5.2L Magnum V8 (gave it to my dad to use for parts for his 5.2L powered Ram 1500). My poor 5.2L had 4 dead cylinders and the other 4 ranged between 50psi and 70psi compression... She still ran and drove, matter a fact, I drove it for a couple months like that, before finally parking it.  She sat for over a year after that. I climbed in, cranked the engine over and she sputtered to life one last time...for her trip into the garage for the engine to be removed.



[Image: image_zps288e6b13.jpg]

[Image: image_zpsb7062f3d.jpg]

[Image: image_zpse49327b2.jpg]

[Image: image_zps17563bf0.jpg]



In with the 617. Ended up bolting the transmission to her on the floor, and with a not so helpful helper, some swearing (okay, lots of swearing...mostly because the helper was supposed to be "spotting" clearances...clearances that put a dent in my core support because he wasn't watching) and some crafty chain placement, I was able to wrestle the Engine/Transmission into the truck in one assembled combination.


[Image: image_zpsc974bac5.jpg]

[Image: image_zps0b24c83c.jpg]

[Image: image_zpsf0b499d9.jpg]

[Image: image_zps01731233.jpg]

[Image: image_zpssklvotij.jpg]

[Image: image_zps7rlnng8p.jpg]



Figure this one out... The OM617 weighs more than the 5.2L, yet the front of my truck sits 3" Higher than it did with the V8.



[Image: image_zpsdw6b2il2.jpg]






Salvaging parts from a Dodge D50 Instrument Cluster, to install in the factory Dakota Instrument Cluster... Yes, that's a Gasoline D50 Cluster, with factory Diesel Indicator Lights in it.  A 2nd Gen D50 Cluster at that, the Turbo Diesel was only a 1st Gen D50 Option (that cluster is 3 years newer and completely different from the 1st Gen Diesel Cluster).  I'm not complaining, it gave me parts to make my Dakota look more "factory"


[Image: image_zps06bc5odd.jpg]

[Image: image_zpseg5jqt1u.jpg]






Necessary extra gauges


[Image: image_zpswhbpiswv.jpg]


[Image: image_zpsshkahb3x.jpg]

[Image: image_zpstgqicw6x.jpg]

'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833
74Dusted
07-22-2015, 09:58 PM #11

Been a long while since I posted any updates.

Engine/Transmission are in the truck. I ended up keeping the Merc Auto trans behind the 617 for now, until I can get around to gathering up everything for a 5-Speed Manual Swap.


Out with the beat 5.2L Magnum V8 (gave it to my dad to use for parts for his 5.2L powered Ram 1500). My poor 5.2L had 4 dead cylinders and the other 4 ranged between 50psi and 70psi compression... She still ran and drove, matter a fact, I drove it for a couple months like that, before finally parking it.  She sat for over a year after that. I climbed in, cranked the engine over and she sputtered to life one last time...for her trip into the garage for the engine to be removed.



[Image: image_zps288e6b13.jpg]

[Image: image_zpsb7062f3d.jpg]

[Image: image_zpse49327b2.jpg]

[Image: image_zps17563bf0.jpg]



In with the 617. Ended up bolting the transmission to her on the floor, and with a not so helpful helper, some swearing (okay, lots of swearing...mostly because the helper was supposed to be "spotting" clearances...clearances that put a dent in my core support because he wasn't watching) and some crafty chain placement, I was able to wrestle the Engine/Transmission into the truck in one assembled combination.


[Image: image_zpsc974bac5.jpg]

[Image: image_zps0b24c83c.jpg]

[Image: image_zpsf0b499d9.jpg]

[Image: image_zps01731233.jpg]

[Image: image_zpssklvotij.jpg]

[Image: image_zps7rlnng8p.jpg]



Figure this one out... The OM617 weighs more than the 5.2L, yet the front of my truck sits 3" Higher than it did with the V8.



[Image: image_zpsdw6b2il2.jpg]






Salvaging parts from a Dodge D50 Instrument Cluster, to install in the factory Dakota Instrument Cluster... Yes, that's a Gasoline D50 Cluster, with factory Diesel Indicator Lights in it.  A 2nd Gen D50 Cluster at that, the Turbo Diesel was only a 1st Gen D50 Option (that cluster is 3 years newer and completely different from the 1st Gen Diesel Cluster).  I'm not complaining, it gave me parts to make my Dakota look more "factory"


[Image: image_zps06bc5odd.jpg]

[Image: image_zpseg5jqt1u.jpg]






Necessary extra gauges


[Image: image_zpswhbpiswv.jpg]


[Image: image_zpsshkahb3x.jpg]

[Image: image_zpstgqicw6x.jpg]


'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
07-23-2015, 01:01 PM #12
Make sure you flush that red diesel out before you hit the roads. It's what, 10k in fines if you run offroad on a plated behicle?

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
07-23-2015, 01:01 PM #12

Make sure you flush that red diesel out before you hit the roads. It's what, 10k in fines if you run offroad on a plated behicle?


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

74Dusted
Naturally-aspirated

16
07-23-2015, 09:24 PM #13
Oh it'll definitely be flushed. I've got roughly 15 feet of completely dry brand new fuel line that I have to draw fresh diesel through. Whatever's in the IP and filter is what was in it when I bought it.

Not sure if it's possible on the MW pump, but on the VE pumps you can loosen two screws on one of the side caps and purge/flush the contents of the IP (without draining/allowing air into the system) by pumping fuel into the IP with the side cap screws loosened about 1 turn.

'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833
74Dusted
07-23-2015, 09:24 PM #13

Oh it'll definitely be flushed. I've got roughly 15 feet of completely dry brand new fuel line that I have to draw fresh diesel through. Whatever's in the IP and filter is what was in it when I bought it.

Not sure if it's possible on the MW pump, but on the VE pumps you can loosen two screws on one of the side caps and purge/flush the contents of the IP (without draining/allowing air into the system) by pumping fuel into the IP with the side cap screws loosened about 1 turn.


'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833

Simpler=Better
PORTED HEAD

2,127
07-24-2015, 12:31 PM #14
Sounds good to me, just wanted to make sure oy udidn't get hammered.

The build looks great, the clackity clackity has t omake yo usmile on startup Smile

Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
07-24-2015, 12:31 PM #14

Sounds good to me, just wanted to make sure oy udidn't get hammered.

The build looks great, the clackity clackity has t omake yo usmile on startup Smile


Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?

74Dusted
Naturally-aspirated

16
07-24-2015, 10:45 PM #15
I'm well aware that off-road diesel fuel is illegal on my the street. I appreciate the concern though, thanks. Most people in this world wouldn't care enough to share information like that.

It's the same reason I pump $5-10 worth of pump-puke at gas stations into the tank on my 73 Duster... So people don't realize I'm running Avi-Gas or Race Fuel in her. For some reason they never pull fuel samples on gas engines... Even if it is a Supercharged drag car disguised as a street car. (The disguise doesn't work so well, when I've got a supercharger the size of an engine sticking through the hood)

'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833
74Dusted
07-24-2015, 10:45 PM #15

I'm well aware that off-road diesel fuel is illegal on my the street. I appreciate the concern though, thanks. Most people in this world wouldn't care enough to share information like that.

It's the same reason I pump $5-10 worth of pump-puke at gas stations into the tank on my 73 Duster... So people don't realize I'm running Avi-Gas or Race Fuel in her. For some reason they never pull fuel samples on gas engines... Even if it is a Supercharged drag car disguised as a street car. (The disguise doesn't work so well, when I've got a supercharger the size of an engine sticking through the hood)


'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833

MFSuper90
Budget Builder

1,533
07-27-2015, 09:35 PM #16
I've run red fuel in my car for like 5 years...
No officers, I have no idea why the fuel is red Big Grin

'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         
MFSuper90
07-27-2015, 09:35 PM #16

I've run red fuel in my car for like 5 years...
No officers, I have no idea why the fuel is red Big Grin


'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         

MFSuper90
Budget Builder

1,533
01-21-2016, 06:50 PM #17
Is this the Dakota the dieselmeken is building the IP for?

'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         
MFSuper90
01-21-2016, 06:50 PM #17

Is this the Dakota the dieselmeken is building the IP for?


'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         

74Dusted
Naturally-aspirated

16
02-26-2016, 03:12 AM #18
(01-21-2016, 06:50 PM)MFSuper90 Is this the Dakota the dieselmeken is building the IP for?

Nah. I wish. Somebody else is doing a 617 Dakota?

I'm actually rushing through the project at the moment, to get a truck running (voltage regulator crapped out on my daily driver, fried all the lights plus the radio and some other stuff). Warming up inside for a moment, then it's back outside to hook up the oil cooler and transmission cooler.

Got a few hoses to finish up (trans and oil cooler, heater hoses), a couple wires to connect still (glow plug light, fan wires) and the starter to install.

My friend and I worked miracles in the freezing sleet/snow and howling wind yesterday. Hooked up all of the fuel lines (Dakota tank had been previously converted to diesel), radiator hoses, all of the wiring for the diesel (alternator, glow plug controller, tachometer, gauges).


It's a good thing I had most of this thing done already, when the project stalled a while back. I had everything mounted already, found a driveshaft (The driveshaft from a 1970's Dodge ClubCab Shortbed D100 with a 904 Transmission and 8.25" Rear is a perfect fit for a 90's ClubCab Shortbed Dakota with a 617 & 722.x transmission and 8.25" Rear), had already converted the fuel tank from the factory In-Tank Pump setup to a "In-tank Pump Delete" setup, enlarged the factory Dakota fuel neck to fit a Diesel Nozzle for fueling up.

The only reason the project stalled, was because I wanted to keep the Dakota 4WD. That meant I would have to swap in a different transmission or use a Divorced Transfer Case. Tracking down a Divorced NP203 or NP205 from a mid 70's Ford proved to be a challenge, so the truck got pushed to the side.   Now, It doesn't matter if it's 2WD, as long as it gets me from point A to B, until I can fix my daily driver. Once my daily driver is fixed, then I'll focus on adding 4WD to the 617 Dakota.

'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833
74Dusted
02-26-2016, 03:12 AM #18

(01-21-2016, 06:50 PM)MFSuper90 Is this the Dakota the dieselmeken is building the IP for?

Nah. I wish. Somebody else is doing a 617 Dakota?

I'm actually rushing through the project at the moment, to get a truck running (voltage regulator crapped out on my daily driver, fried all the lights plus the radio and some other stuff). Warming up inside for a moment, then it's back outside to hook up the oil cooler and transmission cooler.

Got a few hoses to finish up (trans and oil cooler, heater hoses), a couple wires to connect still (glow plug light, fan wires) and the starter to install.

My friend and I worked miracles in the freezing sleet/snow and howling wind yesterday. Hooked up all of the fuel lines (Dakota tank had been previously converted to diesel), radiator hoses, all of the wiring for the diesel (alternator, glow plug controller, tachometer, gauges).


It's a good thing I had most of this thing done already, when the project stalled a while back. I had everything mounted already, found a driveshaft (The driveshaft from a 1970's Dodge ClubCab Shortbed D100 with a 904 Transmission and 8.25" Rear is a perfect fit for a 90's ClubCab Shortbed Dakota with a 617 & 722.x transmission and 8.25" Rear), had already converted the fuel tank from the factory In-Tank Pump setup to a "In-tank Pump Delete" setup, enlarged the factory Dakota fuel neck to fit a Diesel Nozzle for fueling up.

The only reason the project stalled, was because I wanted to keep the Dakota 4WD. That meant I would have to swap in a different transmission or use a Divorced Transfer Case. Tracking down a Divorced NP203 or NP205 from a mid 70's Ford proved to be a challenge, so the truck got pushed to the side.   Now, It doesn't matter if it's 2WD, as long as it gets me from point A to B, until I can fix my daily driver. Once my daily driver is fixed, then I'll focus on adding 4WD to the 617 Dakota.


'92 Dakota 4x4 : OM617/Auto/205
'84 D50 4x4 : 273/727/100/203 (former turbo diesel truck)
'73 Duster : Roots 6-71 Blown 340/833

MFSuper90
Budget Builder

1,533
02-28-2016, 10:58 AM #19
I just saw that he was making a pump for a Dakota on his fb page. I think this could be a fun truck!

'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         
MFSuper90
02-28-2016, 10:58 AM #19

I just saw that he was making a pump for a Dakota on his fb page. I think this could be a fun truck!


'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         

SurfRodder
Jackass Extraordinaire

611
03-01-2016, 10:50 PM #20
(11-03-2014, 08:24 AM)74Dusted So I'm going to fabricate an OM617 to Small Block Mopar Adapter, I'll machine the flywheel to fit the OM617. The only thing I probably won't be able to handle is balancing the Mopar Flywheel to match the 617. I'll farm that job out to the performance shop that machined the crankshaft in my 6-71 Blown Duster. Unless the 617 is Neutral Balance/Internally Balanced, in which case I could use a 3.9L/273/318/340 Mopar Flywheel.

Anyone know if the 617 is Internally Balanced/Neutral Balance, or External Balance?

My 617 was neutral balanced.  I do recommend getting a HEAVY flywheel for this engine.  I ran a flywheel off a 616 (<20lbs, IIRC) for over a year and while it did seem a little peppier than with the heavier 300GD 617 flywheel(~30lbs), it also was much less comfortable to drive at lower speeds (a LOT of chatter and shudder off the line and in stop and go...you get used to it, but it never feels "right") and most off-road would have been even worse.
This engine likes a bit more counterweight / momentum to keep her running down low.

W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62
SurfRodder
03-01-2016, 10:50 PM #20

(11-03-2014, 08:24 AM)74Dusted So I'm going to fabricate an OM617 to Small Block Mopar Adapter, I'll machine the flywheel to fit the OM617. The only thing I probably won't be able to handle is balancing the Mopar Flywheel to match the 617. I'll farm that job out to the performance shop that machined the crankshaft in my 6-71 Blown Duster. Unless the 617 is Neutral Balance/Internally Balanced, in which case I could use a 3.9L/273/318/340 Mopar Flywheel.

Anyone know if the 617 is Internally Balanced/Neutral Balance, or External Balance?

My 617 was neutral balanced.  I do recommend getting a HEAVY flywheel for this engine.  I ran a flywheel off a 616 (<20lbs, IIRC) for over a year and while it did seem a little peppier than with the heavier 300GD 617 flywheel(~30lbs), it also was much less comfortable to drive at lower speeds (a LOT of chatter and shudder off the line and in stop and go...you get used to it, but it never feels "right") and most off-road would have been even worse.
This engine likes a bit more counterweight / momentum to keep her running down low.


W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62

 
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