Help with turbo
Help with turbo
I've been driving my 85 300D for a while now as a daily. I love it! Something that I'm lacking though is initial power. It takes a while for it to start going from 0-10. Once I start moving, the power is great. I was wondering about changing out the turbo. I don't care about top end, going past 3500RPMs. Also, I'm looking at swapping rear ends out to a 2.65 so the initial takeoff would be greatly appreciated.
I'm not in a rush, there is plenty for me to work on with a 30 year old sedan.
1987 Mazda B2200 "outlaw" **planning phase** Chevy 283, Power Pack heads, Edelbrock carb and intake, turbo 350 trans
1985 Mercedes 300D stock for now
Hello everyone.
I've been driving my 85 300D for a while now as a daily. I love it! Something that I'm lacking though is initial power. It takes a while for it to start going from 0-10. Once I start moving, the power is great. I was wondering about changing out the turbo. I don't care about top end, going past 3500RPMs. Also, I'm looking at swapping rear ends out to a 2.65 so the initial takeoff would be greatly appreciated.
I'm not in a rush, there is plenty for me to work on with a 30 year old sedan.
1987 Mazda B2200 "outlaw" **planning phase** Chevy 283, Power Pack heads, Edelbrock carb and intake, turbo 350 trans
1985 Mercedes 300D stock for now
Sure you can use a modern gtb1752v turbo and have absolutely zero top end power but when revving in neutral you can achieve maximum boost (maximum boost is determent by fuel).
F-tune Performance
![[Image: V-band_om606.jpg]](http://www.f-tune.se/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/V-band_om606.jpg)
![[Image: GTX3582R.jpg]](http://www.f-tune.se/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/GTX3582R.jpg)
![[Image: gs6-53dz_gearbox.jpg]](http://www.f-tune.se/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/gs6-53dz_gearbox.jpg)
I can help you out with all your manual transmission, clutch, flywheel, intake and exhaust manifold issues.
FUEL is what you need
Sure you can use a modern gtb1752v turbo and have absolutely zero top end power but when revving in neutral you can achieve maximum boost (maximum boost is determent by fuel).
F-tune Performance
I can help you out with all your manual transmission, clutch, flywheel, intake and exhaust manifold issues.
These turbos are found in the US in Jeep Liberty CRD only but the similar GT2256v is under the hood of most Sprinters and is slightly larger.
Simpler=Better mated a Garrett GT2056V to his 617 but you'd have to figure out the controlling of the vanes. If you do, you could have boost from idle & maybe some top end increases as well .
These turbos are found in the US in Jeep Liberty CRD only but the similar GT2256v is under the hood of most Sprinters and is slightly larger.
raysorenson
09-04-2015, 10:36 AM #4Advance your timing. Your '85 pump probably has the hole for the $40 timing tool to screw in the side. I'll bet setting it at 10* would make you much happier
1987 Mazda B2200 "outlaw" **planning phase** Chevy 283, Power Pack heads, Edelbrock carb and intake, turbo 350 trans
1985 Mercedes 300D stock for now
There is a tool for adjusting the timing? I tried looking for one on Google without success. I Read somewhere that timing is supposed to be at 24°BTDC. So are you saying 10° is better or 10° more to make it 34°
1987 Mazda B2200 "outlaw" **planning phase** Chevy 283, Power Pack heads, Edelbrock carb and intake, turbo 350 trans
1985 Mercedes 300D stock for now
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
FRAS is right, more fuel would spool your turbo a lot faster. Especially if you put a big pump on it
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
on 617 engines, the best timing method is the drip method (unless u have access to a timing gun), and for that 14º is a good number (1 drop minute).
10º is too much advance for a unmodified engine/pump.
or take the pump out, and istall it a around 20/22 degrees. that sounds a resonably good advance.
regards
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
Nop it is not like that ,
on 617 engines, the best timing method is the drip method (unless u have access to a timing gun), and for that 14º is a good number (1 drop minute).
10º is too much advance for a unmodified engine/pump.
or take the pump out, and istall it a around 20/22 degrees. that sounds a resonably good advance.
regards
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
OM617's are drip timed to 24*BTDC. I don't think you can take it much past that, max 28* BTDC before it starts nailing. But timing chain stretch has probably retarded the timing of the pump and also the cam. Taking it back to stock level will likely improve perfomance
Timing for the OM617 is 10° for the M Pump and 24° for the MW pump. If it was a car that was purchased in the US it is a MW pump. M pumps were used in Europe models.
(09-03-2015, 05:05 PM)EmJay Hello everyone.
I've been driving my 85 300D for a while now as a daily. I love it! Something that I'm lacking though is initial power. It takes a while for it to start going from 0-10. Once I start moving, the power is great. I was wondering about changing out the turbo. I don't care about top end, going past 3500RPMs. Also, I'm looking at swapping rear ends out to a 2.65 so the initial takeoff would be greatly appreciated.
I'm not in a rush, there is plenty for me to work on with a 30 year old sedan.
The 85 has a low 1st gear. Maybe my wagon has a lower rear end ratio though. Anyway I agree if the boost would just come on at 1500rpm instead of 2000, it would be pretty competitive against anything from stoplight to stoplight.
I actually think you don't need more fuel. You need a smaller, modern turbo. My theory is the he200wg is perfect. So I bought one, clocked it, bought the W115 manifold, rebuilt the head, got an oil supply line. I also think it would be great for the hp turbo 8n a compound setup. This was my plan for it until we sold the house and I had to bolt it all back together asap. So the he200wg sits on the shelf and everything is still stock, including rebuilt tranny and turbo.
At this rate I will have to cash out and buy something cheaper to mod - I have seen crappier wagons than mine go over 20k on ebay, so it is hard to get too excited about reducing the value to 3k with custom components.
Anyway dieselmeken can turn up the fuel on your mw 20% without too much fuss, so that is another option if you can send him one.
atypicalguy
09-07-2015, 05:41 PM #11(09-03-2015, 05:05 PM)EmJay Hello everyone.
I've been driving my 85 300D for a while now as a daily. I love it! Something that I'm lacking though is initial power. It takes a while for it to start going from 0-10. Once I start moving, the power is great. I was wondering about changing out the turbo. I don't care about top end, going past 3500RPMs. Also, I'm looking at swapping rear ends out to a 2.65 so the initial takeoff would be greatly appreciated.
I'm not in a rush, there is plenty for me to work on with a 30 year old sedan.
The 85 has a low 1st gear. Maybe my wagon has a lower rear end ratio though. Anyway I agree if the boost would just come on at 1500rpm instead of 2000, it would be pretty competitive against anything from stoplight to stoplight.
I actually think you don't need more fuel. You need a smaller, modern turbo. My theory is the he200wg is perfect. So I bought one, clocked it, bought the W115 manifold, rebuilt the head, got an oil supply line. I also think it would be great for the hp turbo 8n a compound setup. This was my plan for it until we sold the house and I had to bolt it all back together asap. So the he200wg sits on the shelf and everything is still stock, including rebuilt tranny and turbo.
At this rate I will have to cash out and buy something cheaper to mod - I have seen crappier wagons than mine go over 20k on ebay, so it is hard to get too excited about reducing the value to 3k with custom components.
Anyway dieselmeken can turn up the fuel on your mw 20% without too much fuss, so that is another option if you can send him one.
1987 Mazda B2200 "outlaw" **planning phase** Chevy 283, Power Pack heads, Edelbrock carb and intake, turbo 350 trans
1985 Mercedes 300D stock for now
Yeah mine is a US model I believe. I like this car a lot, but I'm not looking to super turbo this thing. I just want a better launch. My first step is a set of greazzer's rebuilt injectors, then I will look at the timing since I will be there. Im trying to keep this mostly stock.
1987 Mazda B2200 "outlaw" **planning phase** Chevy 283, Power Pack heads, Edelbrock carb and intake, turbo 350 trans
1985 Mercedes 300D stock for now
(09-09-2015, 09:37 PM)EmJay Yeah mine is a US model I believe. I like this car a lot, but I'm not looking to super turbo this thing. I just want a better launch. My first step is a set of greazzer's rebuilt injectors, then I will look at the timing since I will be there. Im trying to keep this mostly stock.
Injectors are not limiting. You can run plenty of fuel through stock ones, more than you can burn. Having him rebuild them is smart though.
Up the boost to 15, go for the 20% more MW mod, Install Egt probe.
atypicalguy
09-10-2015, 12:30 AM #13(09-09-2015, 09:37 PM)EmJay Yeah mine is a US model I believe. I like this car a lot, but I'm not looking to super turbo this thing. I just want a better launch. My first step is a set of greazzer's rebuilt injectors, then I will look at the timing since I will be there. Im trying to keep this mostly stock.
Injectors are not limiting. You can run plenty of fuel through stock ones, more than you can burn. Having him rebuild them is smart though.
Up the boost to 15, go for the 20% more MW mod, Install Egt probe.
Documentation proving I'm not lying about '85's having the timing hole in the side of the pump:
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outsi..._1-001.pdf
This is what the cheap mechanical tool looks like
![[Image: mdQD4mQi0WKDmJ6Qu_AqfgQ.jpg]](http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mdQD4mQi0WKDmJ6Qu_AqfgQ.jpg)
To quote another forum member, "fuck that drip shit".
raysorenson
09-10-2015, 08:37 AM #1410* ATDC using RIV method. Stock timing is 15* ATDC RIV method.
Documentation proving I'm not lying about '85's having the timing hole in the side of the pump:
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outsi..._1-001.pdf
This is what the cheap mechanical tool looks like
To quote another forum member, "fuck that drip shit".
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