1994 E 250 TD N/A manual becomes a E 250 T Turbodiesel Automatic
1994 E 250 TD N/A manual becomes a E 250 T Turbodiesel Automatic
Please excuse my bad english, I am from Germany. Ive read here for some time now, and I think I have something to show now, maybe this is interesting for you.
I've always been a huge fan of the w124 sedans as they are al lot quieter and a bit faster than the estate cars. But more by accident I bought a 1994 E 250 TD almost two years ago. It cost just 450€ (with almost 500.000km on the clock) and I just wanted to strip some parts, but apart from the dented and rusty outside it turned out to be a very clean, good running car. So I changed some parts (all 5 doors, right front wing and so on) and been driving the car till today. I installed an air condition last summer, so the only things that bother me till today are lack of power and the manual gearbox.
![[Image: Foto-0601_zpshlxlza2f.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/Foto-0601_zpshlxlza2f.jpg.html)
So I thought I could fit a OM650 Turbo from a w202 into my 124. The 202 with this engine is very cheap to get over here. So I got one for 350€ with an automatic gearbox. The car was a complete desaster, but engine and transmission worked like a charm.
At first I thought just to swap the turbo onto my engine, but as I like to drive long distances on the autobahn an topspeed, the difference in the design of the piston cooling might become an issue. Also I thought about using an injection pump from the OM602 since the one I got in the w202 ist electonically controlled. But in germany, every modification that might influence the cars driving security, has to be checked by the authorities. So when I swap an engine in, I am not allowed to change the injection system because it does not have smog homologation. But I also liked the Idea of keeping the w202s cruise control, I thought "all you have to do is swap some sensors and wires".
A very good friend of mine involved in this project called me one evening and said: "Rear Axle, and Differential mount of the w202 and w124 are the same, why not swap transmission and differential, too?" This would mean I get an automatic 5-Speed transmission with the long transmission ratio of the diff, I liked the Idea. Just some more wires to swap.
So we started the w202 and pulled some electrical connections, to determine which control units are needed and which not. Turned out I need to swap the ABS-System, too. Gearbox and Engine ECUs need the speed signal. I am wondering what the TÜV-engineer might think of that idea. But lets start with the engine.
![[Image: IMAG0301_zpsvsesfcub.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0301_zpsvsesfcub.jpg.html)
Hi,
Please excuse my bad english, I am from Germany. Ive read here for some time now, and I think I have something to show now, maybe this is interesting for you.
I've always been a huge fan of the w124 sedans as they are al lot quieter and a bit faster than the estate cars. But more by accident I bought a 1994 E 250 TD almost two years ago. It cost just 450€ (with almost 500.000km on the clock) and I just wanted to strip some parts, but apart from the dented and rusty outside it turned out to be a very clean, good running car. So I changed some parts (all 5 doors, right front wing and so on) and been driving the car till today. I installed an air condition last summer, so the only things that bother me till today are lack of power and the manual gearbox.
So I thought I could fit a OM650 Turbo from a w202 into my 124. The 202 with this engine is very cheap to get over here. So I got one for 350€ with an automatic gearbox. The car was a complete desaster, but engine and transmission worked like a charm.
At first I thought just to swap the turbo onto my engine, but as I like to drive long distances on the autobahn an topspeed, the difference in the design of the piston cooling might become an issue. Also I thought about using an injection pump from the OM602 since the one I got in the w202 ist electonically controlled. But in germany, every modification that might influence the cars driving security, has to be checked by the authorities. So when I swap an engine in, I am not allowed to change the injection system because it does not have smog homologation. But I also liked the Idea of keeping the w202s cruise control, I thought "all you have to do is swap some sensors and wires".
A very good friend of mine involved in this project called me one evening and said: "Rear Axle, and Differential mount of the w202 and w124 are the same, why not swap transmission and differential, too?" This would mean I get an automatic 5-Speed transmission with the long transmission ratio of the diff, I liked the Idea. Just some more wires to swap.
So we started the w202 and pulled some electrical connections, to determine which control units are needed and which not. Turned out I need to swap the ABS-System, too. Gearbox and Engine ECUs need the speed signal. I am wondering what the TÜV-engineer might think of that idea. But lets start with the engine.
![[Image: IMAG0302_zps6obtqetx.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0302_zps6obtqetx.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0303_zpsxw32viwr.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0303_zpsxw32viwr.jpg.html)
Checked the injection nozzles, squirting perfectly. Shimmed and matched all five to 135 bar.
Timing chain is stretched, about 4 to 5 degree. I will renew it some time in the future.
Set the pump to 11° past OT. Thats about perfect for WVO which Ive been using for years.
Swapped in a coolant temperature sensor from w124, since the one in the 202 is used only by the ECU. The instrument in the 202 gets this information via canbus. There was one drill hole left in the head, blocked with a plug.
Nice to see that the wiring is in perfect condition, the engine cable harness in my 124 is total garbage. The insulation is broken everywhere.
![[Image: IMAG0304_zpsisbu7qn6.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0304_zpsisbu7qn6.jpg.html)
Belt tightener is in perfect condition. Steering pump is swapped from my 124 since it has a level control system. The compressor of the air condition is totally different to the 124 one, so I swap it, too. Generator is the same, but I refurbished mine some time ago, so I keep it.
I swapped the engine mounts, too, to get the engine in the same position as the old one.
OK, removed the head. Everything OK, just a little scratch in the wall of cylinder number two. Nothing serious
Checked the injection nozzles, squirting perfectly. Shimmed and matched all five to 135 bar.
Timing chain is stretched, about 4 to 5 degree. I will renew it some time in the future.
Set the pump to 11° past OT. Thats about perfect for WVO which Ive been using for years.
Swapped in a coolant temperature sensor from w124, since the one in the 202 is used only by the ECU. The instrument in the 202 gets this information via canbus. There was one drill hole left in the head, blocked with a plug.
Nice to see that the wiring is in perfect condition, the engine cable harness in my 124 is total garbage. The insulation is broken everywhere.
Belt tightener is in perfect condition. Steering pump is swapped from my 124 since it has a level control system. The compressor of the air condition is totally different to the 124 one, so I swap it, too. Generator is the same, but I refurbished mine some time ago, so I keep it.
I swapped the engine mounts, too, to get the engine in the same position as the old one.
Pulled out the needed parts of the 202s rear axle today. Differential, drive shafts and the wheel carriers (dont know the right word). I need to swap the carriers because they have ABS sensors. I will swap the whole ABS System to make the 722.6 and the cruise control work.
![[Image: IMAG0310_zpslvi1u0gg.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0310_zpslvi1u0gg.jpg.html)
Turned out the 202s drive shafts are shorter, see the picture below (Top is 202, below a 124 shaft I have lying around).
![[Image: IMAG0311_zpsunihsdkk.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0311_zpsunihsdkk.jpg.html)
The ABS Trigger wheels are mounted on the drive shafts as you can see. Luckily the 124 shafts are just 2mm wider in diameter where the trigger wheels are mounted, I cleaned them from rust and dirt and hammered them carefully on. They fit perfectly into position.
![[Image: IMAG0312_zpsflix3pqy.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0312_zpsflix3pqy.jpg.html)
Thats all for today. I think thats all that I can prepare before I have to make my 124 immobile.
Just some little progress to show today
Pulled out the needed parts of the 202s rear axle today. Differential, drive shafts and the wheel carriers (dont know the right word). I need to swap the carriers because they have ABS sensors. I will swap the whole ABS System to make the 722.6 and the cruise control work.
Turned out the 202s drive shafts are shorter, see the picture below (Top is 202, below a 124 shaft I have lying around).
The ABS Trigger wheels are mounted on the drive shafts as you can see. Luckily the 124 shafts are just 2mm wider in diameter where the trigger wheels are mounted, I cleaned them from rust and dirt and hammered them carefully on. They fit perfectly into position.
Thats all for today. I think thats all that I can prepare before I have to make my 124 immobile.
![[Image: IMAG0513_zpsgyla9xnt.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0513_zpsgyla9xnt.jpg.html)
Everything went alsmost fine. I used the wheel carriers from the 202, just put in new brakes and a new ball joint. The driveshafts fit perfectly like I described in my previous post. Differential from the 202 fits perfectly, too. By the time I had it in, I noticed, that I could only mount one screw per side from the driveshafts to the Differential. 202s driveshaft flanges are bigger than the one on my 124. I had to get that thing out again and swap the flanges from my old diff in, but now everything looks fine.
The propshaft flange of the new diff is 100mm, my old one has a 90mm flange. So my propshaft doesnt fit here any more and the car has become immobile. So I pulled out the engine and transmission, too.
![[Image: IMAG0321_zpsb7owr3gz.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0321_zpsb7owr3gz.jpg.html)
I am done with the rear axle. Its kind of a dirty job, maybe thats why I used my mobile just once to get a quick shaky snapshot,
Everything went alsmost fine. I used the wheel carriers from the 202, just put in new brakes and a new ball joint. The driveshafts fit perfectly like I described in my previous post. Differential from the 202 fits perfectly, too. By the time I had it in, I noticed, that I could only mount one screw per side from the driveshafts to the Differential. 202s driveshaft flanges are bigger than the one on my 124. I had to get that thing out again and swap the flanges from my old diff in, but now everything looks fine.
The propshaft flange of the new diff is 100mm, my old one has a 90mm flange. So my propshaft doesnt fit here any more and the car has become immobile. So I pulled out the engine and transmission, too.
Did the engine electics:
I already swapped the coolant temperature sensor from the 124 for the instrument, but the wires from the 124 were unuseable, all the insulation was crispy. So I had to make a new one to the connector near the preglow relay.
Oil level sensors do not differ, but in the 202 it is connected to the ECU which sends this information via can to the instrument. I swapped the wires from the 124. In this harness, there are also the connections to the starter relay and the oil pressure sensor. Funny that these wire insulations are fine. 202 doesnt have a pressure sensor, so I swapped that one, too. 202s starter is driven by the ECU via a relay. I plan to drive the starter directly by the key, as it was with the old engine. So the ECU thinks the car rolled on.
202s engine speed sensor counts 5 impulses per engine rotation, the one in the 124 is mounted in the oilpan and counts the teeth on the starter gear rim:
![[Image: IMAG0322_zpscxj5am19.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0322_zpscxj5am19.jpg.html)
I need it for my air condition and my tachometer, so I had to swap it.
The bore for it was missing in the 202s oilpan, but the flange was already there:
![[Image: IMAG0323_zpscrhbz8u7.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0323_zpscrhbz8u7.jpg.html)
So I just had to drill two holes, tap one and mount it:
![[Image: IMAG0326_zpspxqhubvo.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0326_zpspxqhubvo.jpg.html)
Yes, I think so, too
Did the engine electics:
I already swapped the coolant temperature sensor from the 124 for the instrument, but the wires from the 124 were unuseable, all the insulation was crispy. So I had to make a new one to the connector near the preglow relay.
Oil level sensors do not differ, but in the 202 it is connected to the ECU which sends this information via can to the instrument. I swapped the wires from the 124. In this harness, there are also the connections to the starter relay and the oil pressure sensor. Funny that these wire insulations are fine. 202 doesnt have a pressure sensor, so I swapped that one, too. 202s starter is driven by the ECU via a relay. I plan to drive the starter directly by the key, as it was with the old engine. So the ECU thinks the car rolled on.
202s engine speed sensor counts 5 impulses per engine rotation, the one in the 124 is mounted in the oilpan and counts the teeth on the starter gear rim:
I need it for my air condition and my tachometer, so I had to swap it.
The bore for it was missing in the 202s oilpan, but the flange was already there:
So I just had to drill two holes, tap one and mount it:
So I swapped the mounting socket for the ABS/ASR Hydraulics from the 202 into the 124
![[Image: IMAG0327_zpsnicbdgfz.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0327_zpsnicbdgfz.jpg.html)
The 202 uses a 3-Channel ABS like the 124, too. So I think it would have been possible just so put the both rear hydraulic lines right behind the hydraulic block together and use the one already available brake line to the rear brakes. But that would have left me with a bad working ASR, so I put in a second brake line to the rear brakes
All the old brake lines hat to be straightened, rebended, shortened and connected.
![[Image: IMAG0336_zpsfmljqmx8.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0336_zpsfmljqmx8.jpg.html)
Only problem is the 202s brake line from the master cylinder to the hydraulic block for the rear brakes. It has an outer diameter of 6mm, in the 124 it was 4,75mm. Thats because this line is used to feed the hydraulic pump in case of the ASR working. Luckily m12x1 fittings are available for 4,75mm brake lines.
![[Image: IMAG0337_zpsmcfdo6yp.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0337_zpsmcfdo6yp.jpg.html)
The next step will be installing engine and transmission. Thats quite a problem in the 124 if you just own some chains and hooks, so I used time at work to build this:
![[Image: IMAG0340_zps9tt8ctvj.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0340_zps9tt8ctvj.jpg.html)
I have to swap the brake system, too, due to the missing CAN-Function of the 124s ABS-System. I chose to do this work while the engine is not in the car, makes it much easier.
So I swapped the mounting socket for the ABS/ASR Hydraulics from the 202 into the 124
The 202 uses a 3-Channel ABS like the 124, too. So I think it would have been possible just so put the both rear hydraulic lines right behind the hydraulic block together and use the one already available brake line to the rear brakes. But that would have left me with a bad working ASR, so I put in a second brake line to the rear brakes
All the old brake lines hat to be straightened, rebended, shortened and connected.
Only problem is the 202s brake line from the master cylinder to the hydraulic block for the rear brakes. It has an outer diameter of 6mm, in the 124 it was 4,75mm. Thats because this line is used to feed the hydraulic pump in case of the ASR working. Luckily m12x1 fittings are available for 4,75mm brake lines.
The next step will be installing engine and transmission. Thats quite a problem in the 124 if you just own some chains and hooks, so I used time at work to build this:
)![[Image: IMAG0344_zpshnkazuv9.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0344_zpshnkazuv9.jpg.html)
Rear transmission mount of the 722.6 is different to the older transmissions, so I tried to fit a 202 and a 210 mount. Both did not fit.
![[Image: IMAG0347_zpspk9h5pee.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0347_zpspk9h5pee.jpg.html)
So I had to make it fit. I would have better measured the hight of the propshaft flange of the old transmission in the gearbox tunnel. I am a bit scared of vibrations if propshaft and gearbox are mounted in different angles. So I measured the hight of the propshaft flange to the flange of the old transmission mount. Kind of difficult when both is not fitted in the car. I hope I got it right.
Jacked the Transmission into the right position and installed the 202s transmission mount.
![[Image: IMAG0345_zpskc1wv7sb.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0345_zpskc1wv7sb.jpg.html)
Cut it into three peaces, used only the one in the middle and welded two brackets to it.
![[Image: IMAG0346_zpsqbvrpans.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0346_zpsqbvrpans.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0351_zpstvcxg7gu.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0351_zpstvcxg7gu.jpg.html)
One of my friends had some paint in the trunk, so he did the job of corrosion protection
Thanks!On the left side of the last picture my new fuel line. 12mm inner diameter for WVO
On the other side of the engine I still have to mount the intercooler, seems kind of difficult because of 124s inclined front bumper.
Seems the original water cooler mount is impossible to use. I also want to keep my air condition, so I have to make the condenser fit, too. So a friend and I cut the cooler mount from the 202 and fitted it into the 124 with cable ties and the mounted intercooler
![[Image: IMAG0352_zpsteycyipv.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0352_zpsteycyipv.jpg.html)
Seems to work. The 202s mount does not fit, it is too big for the bumper. But the position of the water cooler and intercooler seem to be perfect. I think if I make a new mount this will work perfectly.
Only problem seems to be the position of the intercollers exit, it interferes with the pressure pipe of the air condition. I have to come up with some kind of solution for that. We will see.
![[Image: IMAG0353_zpsrlnlhwkn.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0353_zpsrlnlhwkn.jpg.html)
Got engine and transmission installed. With a little help from my friends (a lot of help!!! )
Rear transmission mount of the 722.6 is different to the older transmissions, so I tried to fit a 202 and a 210 mount. Both did not fit.
So I had to make it fit. I would have better measured the hight of the propshaft flange of the old transmission in the gearbox tunnel. I am a bit scared of vibrations if propshaft and gearbox are mounted in different angles. So I measured the hight of the propshaft flange to the flange of the old transmission mount. Kind of difficult when both is not fitted in the car. I hope I got it right.
Jacked the Transmission into the right position and installed the 202s transmission mount.
Cut it into three peaces, used only the one in the middle and welded two brackets to it.
One of my friends had some paint in the trunk, so he did the job of corrosion protection Thanks!
On the left side of the last picture my new fuel line. 12mm inner diameter for WVO
On the other side of the engine I still have to mount the intercooler, seems kind of difficult because of 124s inclined front bumper.
Seems the original water cooler mount is impossible to use. I also want to keep my air condition, so I have to make the condenser fit, too. So a friend and I cut the cooler mount from the 202 and fitted it into the 124 with cable ties and the mounted intercooler
Seems to work. The 202s mount does not fit, it is too big for the bumper. But the position of the water cooler and intercooler seem to be perfect. I think if I make a new mount this will work perfectly.
Only problem seems to be the position of the intercollers exit, it interferes with the pressure pipe of the air condition. I have to come up with some kind of solution for that. We will see.
To be honest just getting a AC pipe made which clears will be the simplest solution, about 30 euro..
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
So you are going to use W202 radiator along with ATF cooler?
To be honest just getting a AC pipe made which clears will be the simplest solution, about 30 euro..
Installed:
OM606/722.6, big IC, W220 brakes.
Planned:
DIY manifold, compound, 722.6 controller, built IP.
[i]Less rust.. [/i]
Yes, Iuse the 202 radiator in its original position in relation to the engine. I will show pictures of tgat in a few days, need to find some time to do that. Solution to the AC Pipe Problem is much easier than I thought.
Talked to the officials about this. You may remember rhat I have to get an engineer from the german TÜV to declare, that my build is absolutely safe in every way. So I talked to the guy and the speedo issue is a problem for him. He said the changes in the brake system are so complex, I have to get a declaration from Mercedes Benz officials, that this is OK. There is no way they are ever gonna give me somethi g like that.
SoI wrote down the technical details of this project, how my ans are, which was about 5 pages. I put a lot of material from the workshopdocumentation to my text, so I got to about 20 pages. I sent it to him, and he called me back some days ago and told me it looks OK. If I stick to my documentation, he will accept it. Thats very good
Hi,
Yes, Iuse the 202 radiator in its original position in relation to the engine. I will show pictures of tgat in a few days, need to find some time to do that. Solution to the AC Pipe Problem is much easier than I thought.
Talked to the officials about this. You may remember rhat I have to get an engineer from the german TÜV to declare, that my build is absolutely safe in every way. So I talked to the guy and the speedo issue is a problem for him. He said the changes in the brake system are so complex, I have to get a declaration from Mercedes Benz officials, that this is OK. There is no way they are ever gonna give me somethi g like that.
SoI wrote down the technical details of this project, how my ans are, which was about 5 pages. I put a lot of material from the workshopdocumentation to my text, so I got to about 20 pages. I sent it to him, and he called me back some days ago and told me it looks OK. If I stick to my documentation, he will accept it. Thats very good
I already got myself a 400E Speedo. It also has a ASR/ASD light, which is perfect for my needs since I will have ASR. I just have to make it fit to the speed signal that comes from the ABS
Yeah, I just put on the ventilated front brake discs from the +120HP models. Thats enough for me. 300-24 Brakes require other wishbones, just making them fit by grinding and cutting will not be accepted by the TÜV.
I already got myself a 400E Speedo. It also has a ASR/ASD light, which is perfect for my needs since I will have ASR. I just have to make it fit to the speed signal that comes from the ABS
the estate models had also rear ventilated discs. I have lots of friends here in spain with those brakes and even bigger brakes like the s600 for example and they seem completely original, the inspectors just see the mercedes logo on the brakes and think it's original, I see in germany they look really for everything
In the last two weeks I had very little time, but here I have some pictures.
I tried to work out a lower mount for the cooler package. The one from the 202 does not fit, so I had to build something new. So I decided to use the watercooler from the 202 and mount it in relation to the engine in the same position than in the 202. That means the coller gets closer to the engine than in the 124.
![[Image: IMAG0366_zpszccxaiqd.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0366_zpszccxaiqd.jpg.html)
I built the mount from normal metal sheets.
![[Image: IMAG0360_zpsqokbpjhz.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0360_zpsqokbpjhz.jpg.html)
Fits perfectly
![[Image: IMAG0365_zpslmqeayuc.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0365_zpslmqeayuc.jpg.html)
Very stable, too
![[Image: IMAG0363_zpstfomfm2m.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0363_zpstfomfm2m.jpg.html)
Looks like crap, so I threw it away.
Hi,
In the last two weeks I had very little time, but here I have some pictures.
I tried to work out a lower mount for the cooler package. The one from the 202 does not fit, so I had to build something new. So I decided to use the watercooler from the 202 and mount it in relation to the engine in the same position than in the 202. That means the coller gets closer to the engine than in the 124.
I built the mount from normal metal sheets.
Fits perfectly
Very stable, too
Looks like crap, so I threw it away.
So a friend got me a propshaft from a m104 124 with 4-speed automatik transmission. The front end fits perfectly, the rear end is 7cm too short. So i cut a 7cm part out of the 202 propshaft and welded it into the propshaft.
![[Image: IMAG0367_zpss7s1mmdf.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0367_zpss7s1mmdf.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0368_zpsy187ghu6.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0368_zpsy187ghu6.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0369_zpsgpmyaoxa.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0369_zpsgpmyaoxa.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0371_zpstagykoju.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0371_zpstagykoju.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0373_zpsejvfzsmi.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0373_zpsejvfzsmi.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0375_zpsxieyvtor.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0375_zpsxieyvtor.jpg.html)
I have to see if I got vibrations. If I have, I can still bring the propshaft to someone to balance it.
I decided to fit the propshaft first. The one from the 202 is much too short and has a different mount on the middle bearing. The old one from the 124 is also too short and has 90mm flanges, the turbo uses 100mm.
So a friend got me a propshaft from a m104 124 with 4-speed automatik transmission. The front end fits perfectly, the rear end is 7cm too short. So i cut a 7cm part out of the 202 propshaft and welded it into the propshaft.
I have to see if I got vibrations. If I have, I can still bring the propshaft to someone to balance it.
I removed the cooler fan. It steals 4cm between intercooler and condenser, I will mount a smaller fan later.
![[Image: IMAG0376_zpsjxdkguyg.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0376_zpsjxdkguyg.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0377_zpsyjt4tfwo.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0377_zpsyjt4tfwo.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0379_zpsfdllyp1i.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0379_zpsfdllyp1i.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0380_zpsxliqmtyx.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0380_zpsxliqmtyx.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0381_zpsxqjx3o4f.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0381_zpsxqjx3o4f.jpg.html)
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The problem with the air condition pipe was easily solved with a hose from a 906 Sprinter.
![[Image: IMAG0391_zpsi5te9vke.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0391_zpsi5te9vke.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0392_zpsvoit8swx.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0392_zpsvoit8swx.jpg.html)
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The hose from the air filter to the turbo fits perfectly on the 124s original airbox.
![[Image: IMAG0389_zpshygjael7.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0389_zpshygjael7.jpg.html)
I decided to build the cooler mount from steel pipe. I bends easily with a hydraulic tool and is stable as hell.
I removed the cooler fan. It steals 4cm between intercooler and condenser, I will mount a smaller fan later.
The problem with the air condition pipe was easily solved with a hose from a 906 Sprinter.
The hose from the air filter to the turbo fits perfectly on the 124s original airbox.
There is a cable connecting the brake pedal to the gearbox. This blocks the gear lever in position P when not pressing the brake pedal. I dont like this function, disconnected it in my other 124s, too. But before the 722.6, on the older transmissions this was connected to the console of the gear lever, not to the transmission itself.
I cut the cable and glued a screw into the hole pressing the pin to release the gear lever.
![[Image: IMAG0394_zpstmk6nhyr.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0394_zpstmk6nhyr.jpg.html)
Next I decided to fit the throttle position sensor which in w210 and w202 is fitted behind the firewall. I had to connect the bowden cable from the throttle pedal to it, so finding a good mounting position was not so easy. I built a bracket and mounted it to the console of the ABS hydraulic block. I couldn really take a better photo. Its a little blocked over there. The socket of the bowden cable is the same on 202 and 124, just the end of the wire is different because 202 uses a ball joint there. I just cut both ends and connected the two wires with a crimp connection.
![[Image: IMAG0395_zpskgpnhyz7.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0395_zpskgpnhyz7.jpg.html)
Last thing I did was my front brakes. I switched to ventilated discs which is basically a normal brake service with swapping the calliper.
But the ABS/ASR System of the 202 uses a different number of pulses per rotation on the front abs sensors than the 124. Luckily they changed it from 96 on the 124 to 48 on the 202, so I did not have to get new impulse rings done, I just hat to grind away every second tooth. At least thats my plan, I hope the ABS will work properly with this.
![[Image: IMAG0400_zpsp9am8saa.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0400_zpsp9am8saa.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0401_zpsujgrjk4d.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0401_zpsujgrjk4d.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0402_zpssmvlg6kf.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0402_zpssmvlg6kf.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0403_zpsogdz3llb.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0403_zpsogdz3llb.jpg.html)
So, basically the mechanics are done, but before heading to the electronics I had to do some little things to fix first.
There is a cable connecting the brake pedal to the gearbox. This blocks the gear lever in position P when not pressing the brake pedal. I dont like this function, disconnected it in my other 124s, too. But before the 722.6, on the older transmissions this was connected to the console of the gear lever, not to the transmission itself.
I cut the cable and glued a screw into the hole pressing the pin to release the gear lever.
Next I decided to fit the throttle position sensor which in w210 and w202 is fitted behind the firewall. I had to connect the bowden cable from the throttle pedal to it, so finding a good mounting position was not so easy. I built a bracket and mounted it to the console of the ABS hydraulic block. I couldn really take a better photo. Its a little blocked over there. The socket of the bowden cable is the same on 202 and 124, just the end of the wire is different because 202 uses a ball joint there. I just cut both ends and connected the two wires with a crimp connection.
Last thing I did was my front brakes. I switched to ventilated discs which is basically a normal brake service with swapping the calliper.
But the ABS/ASR System of the 202 uses a different number of pulses per rotation on the front abs sensors than the 124. Luckily they changed it from 96 on the 124 to 48 on the 202, so I did not have to get new impulse rings done, I just hat to grind away every second tooth. At least thats my plan, I hope the ABS will work properly with this.
![[Image: IMAG0405_zpspmkwcmdo.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0405_zpspmkwcmdo.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0407_zpsvldxfdpp.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0407_zpsvldxfdpp.jpg.html)
Since mechanics are basically all done now I started with the gearbox wiring. I installed the Gearbox Control Unit behind the passengers footrest, just where it was in the 202.
For the electonics I planned to strip all necessary wires out of the original loom, but it turned out to be too much work. I already printed all wiring diagrams for all Systems I am gonna swap (ABS/ASR, Gearbox, ECU, Instrument, ignition lock...) on paper, so I am just cutting every connector plug out of the 202 and solder them all together in my 124 with new wires.
In case of the gearbox, soldering the wires has another advantage. In case of a leaking plug on the gearbox, the wires suck the ATF from the Gearbox into the control unit and destroy it. with soldered wires this cannot happen any more.
So I had to drill a new hole into the footwell of the passenger and connect the gearbox to the control unit. The gear lever had to be connected, too. Kickdown-Switch from the 202 fitted perfectly into the 124, the socket behind the pedal is the same.
ECU, ABS/ASR Conrol Unit, Passenger Relay Module etc. will be mounted behind the battery, where they are supposed to be in the 124. So I prepared the wiring for CAN-Bus and some additional wires from the footwell to the battery, too.
![[Image: IMAG0408_zpsemuct3zb.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0408_zpsemuct3zb.jpg.html)
I also removed the brake and clutch pedals, too, and replaced them with the brake pedal from a 124 with automatic transmission. That included replacing the brake fluid reservoir, since I dont need the feed for clutch hydraulics any more.
The brake light switch from the 202 has an additional connector for a second internal switch for the ABS/ASR. It fits perfectly on the 124s brake pedal. Even the old connector for the brake lights fit. Its like lego!
![[Image: IMAG0406_zpsi5whoqjd.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0406_zpsi5whoqjd.jpg.html)
Installed the Gear Lever today. Suprisingly it fits perfectly without modifications. Even the cover frame for the socket of the gear lever fits from a w124 4-Speed Gearbox. I Just had to turn the bracket on the linkage around because in the 202 the gear lever was mounted closer to the gearbox.
Since mechanics are basically all done now I started with the gearbox wiring. I installed the Gearbox Control Unit behind the passengers footrest, just where it was in the 202.
For the electonics I planned to strip all necessary wires out of the original loom, but it turned out to be too much work. I already printed all wiring diagrams for all Systems I am gonna swap (ABS/ASR, Gearbox, ECU, Instrument, ignition lock...) on paper, so I am just cutting every connector plug out of the 202 and solder them all together in my 124 with new wires.
In case of the gearbox, soldering the wires has another advantage. In case of a leaking plug on the gearbox, the wires suck the ATF from the Gearbox into the control unit and destroy it. with soldered wires this cannot happen any more.
So I had to drill a new hole into the footwell of the passenger and connect the gearbox to the control unit. The gear lever had to be connected, too. Kickdown-Switch from the 202 fitted perfectly into the 124, the socket behind the pedal is the same.
ECU, ABS/ASR Conrol Unit, Passenger Relay Module etc. will be mounted behind the battery, where they are supposed to be in the 124. So I prepared the wiring for CAN-Bus and some additional wires from the footwell to the battery, too.
I also removed the brake and clutch pedals, too, and replaced them with the brake pedal from a 124 with automatic transmission. That included replacing the brake fluid reservoir, since I dont need the feed for clutch hydraulics any more.
The brake light switch from the 202 has an additional connector for a second internal switch for the ABS/ASR. It fits perfectly on the 124s brake pedal. Even the old connector for the brake lights fit. Its like lego!
First thing I did today was removing the 124s ABS-Control-Module and the ARA Control Module (Anti-Ruckel-Aufschaltung/Anti-Shake-Control) since I dont need them any more. The ARA also picks up the Rev-Signal from the inductive sensor in the oilpan, processes it, and sends it out as a rectangular signal to aircondition and Tachometer. Luckily the aircon-compressor-relay is also capable of doing this, so I rewired it for my needs.
I went on to stripping the 202s electonics. I ripped out the ECU, the ABS-ASR Control Unit and the Passengers Side Relay Module and put them in the 124s ECU compartment right behind the battery. There is enough space there, but I have to be careful with water from the windshield. 202s control devices and their connectors are not sealed since in the 202 they are stored in a watertight box.
![[Image: IMAG0409_zpslpgmbx9p.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0409_zpslpgmbx9p.jpg.html)
I also decided to strip the wiring harness in the engine compartment the way I primary planned, by stripping out the wires I need. That harness is basically very easy, I kept the wires for the ABS/ASR Hyraulic Block, the preglow-relay, boost sensor, Throttle pedal position sensor, the vacuum valves and the boost air temp sensor. Maybe i forgot something here, but thats basically everything.
I also almost got the whole ABS-ASR System wired up, which sounds more work than it was. I kept the wires for the front wheel speed sensors, put in new wires from under the back seats for rear wheel speed sensors, got the power supply working, connected the brake light switch and of course, not to forget the most important connection: CAN-Bus. Its not that much work, the ABS/ASR is a pretty simple system.
I actually spent the whole day on the project, but dont have too much to show here. Electonics are eating a lot of my time, but you dont see very much happening.
First thing I did today was removing the 124s ABS-Control-Module and the ARA Control Module (Anti-Ruckel-Aufschaltung/Anti-Shake-Control) since I dont need them any more. The ARA also picks up the Rev-Signal from the inductive sensor in the oilpan, processes it, and sends it out as a rectangular signal to aircondition and Tachometer. Luckily the aircon-compressor-relay is also capable of doing this, so I rewired it for my needs.
I went on to stripping the 202s electonics. I ripped out the ECU, the ABS-ASR Control Unit and the Passengers Side Relay Module and put them in the 124s ECU compartment right behind the battery. There is enough space there, but I have to be careful with water from the windshield. 202s control devices and their connectors are not sealed since in the 202 they are stored in a watertight box.
I also decided to strip the wiring harness in the engine compartment the way I primary planned, by stripping out the wires I need. That harness is basically very easy, I kept the wires for the ABS/ASR Hyraulic Block, the preglow-relay, boost sensor, Throttle pedal position sensor, the vacuum valves and the boost air temp sensor. Maybe i forgot something here, but thats basically everything.
I also almost got the whole ABS-ASR System wired up, which sounds more work than it was. I kept the wires for the front wheel speed sensors, put in new wires from under the back seats for rear wheel speed sensors, got the power supply working, connected the brake light switch and of course, not to forget the most important connection: CAN-Bus. Its not that much work, the ABS/ASR is a pretty simple system.
I need the instrument from the 202 for ABS, EDC, ASR and Preglow control lights. I connected it to CAN and powersupply, stripped it down to make it fit behind passenger airbag. I soldered wires to the needed lamp sockets to connect w124 Lamps in the original instrument to it.
I got an electronic speedo from a E420 w124 for my project with ASR light that I am gonna make work.
Did just some little work without pictures today
I need the instrument from the 202 for ABS, EDC, ASR and Preglow control lights. I connected it to CAN and powersupply, stripped it down to make it fit behind passenger airbag. I soldered wires to the needed lamp sockets to connect w124 Lamps in the original instrument to it.
I got an electronic speedo from a E420 w124 for my project with ASR light that I am gonna make work.
I installed the engine bay wiring loom. The wires for EGR-Valve and Throttle Position Sensor were too short and had to be lengthened, but the rest fits perfectly. I also included the vacuum line into the harness, it seems so elegant
![[Image: IMAG0418_zpsokskwwlv.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0418_zpsokskwwlv.jpg.html)
Both valves are installed provisional. I have to build another mount for them, at the moment I just want to get the engine running.
![[Image: IMAG0419_zpsflwqr3fd.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0419_zpsflwqr3fd.jpg.html)
So far there is absolute chaos in the Control Unit Bay, I will clean that up after the engine is running... In the middle of the battery console you can see the diagnosis connector. I will have to find some nice place for that one, too.
![[Image: IMAG0420_zpsdns3xtfm.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0420_zpsdns3xtfm.jpg.html)
Cruise control switch fits perfectly without any problems, its connected directly to the ECU.
![[Image: IMAG0425_zps1chrgnju.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0425_zps1chrgnju.jpg.html)
The last control unit that had to be swapped, is the elctronic ignition switch EZS. As a part of the anti-theft system stage 3 (FBS3), the engine will not start without it. A car from 1997 or earlier would have been a better donor. These were equipped with the much simpler FBS2... Now I have to deal with this one.
The plan was, to use the FBS3 parallel to w124s ignition switch. I thought I leave the key in position 2. When I use the original ignition switch to give power to the starter, the ECU thinks, someone started the car by rolling it (OK, its an automatic transmission, but they wont have that removed that "idea" from the ECU since this engine was available with manual transmission, too).
So I wanted to put the EZS under the drivers seat. I made a wiring harness for it and installed it. I also hat to swap the ELV (steering lock motor), the EZS will not work without it.
![[Image: IMAG0426_zpsjit0jm0l.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0426_zpsjit0jm0l.jpg.html)
In a testrun I figured out, my plan is not going to work. The anti theft system will only unlock the ECU if the Key is acutally plugged into the EZS before every start. You can hear the electric stop valve on the injection pump switch into "run" position. That means, I have to start the ignition with the old key, plug the 202s key into the EZS and turn it, and then I can start the engine with the old key.
Unfortunately, the engine does not start. I tried for over an hour. At first I thought its still air in the lines, but when I disconnect the hardlines from the injectors, fuel is draining out. The engine is slightly coughing, little blue clouds are coming from the exhaust. There is definately fuel getting into the engine, but it does not start.
I also checked injection pump timing, thats right where I want it. I have no idea whats wrong. Thats why I decided to stop trying for today, drink a beer and think about this while I am asleep.
Maybe there is someone reading here who has an Idea
I hoped I could tell you the engine is running. But unfortunately, its not starting yet...
I installed the engine bay wiring loom. The wires for EGR-Valve and Throttle Position Sensor were too short and had to be lengthened, but the rest fits perfectly. I also included the vacuum line into the harness, it seems so elegant
Both valves are installed provisional. I have to build another mount for them, at the moment I just want to get the engine running.
So far there is absolute chaos in the Control Unit Bay, I will clean that up after the engine is running... In the middle of the battery console you can see the diagnosis connector. I will have to find some nice place for that one, too.
Cruise control switch fits perfectly without any problems, its connected directly to the ECU.
The last control unit that had to be swapped, is the elctronic ignition switch EZS. As a part of the anti-theft system stage 3 (FBS3), the engine will not start without it. A car from 1997 or earlier would have been a better donor. These were equipped with the much simpler FBS2... Now I have to deal with this one.
The plan was, to use the FBS3 parallel to w124s ignition switch. I thought I leave the key in position 2. When I use the original ignition switch to give power to the starter, the ECU thinks, someone started the car by rolling it (OK, its an automatic transmission, but they wont have that removed that "idea" from the ECU since this engine was available with manual transmission, too).
So I wanted to put the EZS under the drivers seat. I made a wiring harness for it and installed it. I also hat to swap the ELV (steering lock motor), the EZS will not work without it.
In a testrun I figured out, my plan is not going to work. The anti theft system will only unlock the ECU if the Key is acutally plugged into the EZS before every start. You can hear the electric stop valve on the injection pump switch into "run" position. That means, I have to start the ignition with the old key, plug the 202s key into the EZS and turn it, and then I can start the engine with the old key.
Unfortunately, the engine does not start. I tried for over an hour. At first I thought its still air in the lines, but when I disconnect the hardlines from the injectors, fuel is draining out. The engine is slightly coughing, little blue clouds are coming from the exhaust. There is definately fuel getting into the engine, but it does not start.
I also checked injection pump timing, thats right where I want it. I have no idea whats wrong. Thats why I decided to stop trying for today, drink a beer and think about this while I am asleep.
Maybe there is someone reading here who has an Idea
maxypriest
11-11-2015, 03:23 PM #23Good god!
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
I used the StarDiagnosis to look into the ECU while I tried to start the engine. Turns out, without the engine already running at least with idle speed, the throttle pedal position has absolutlely no affect on the injected fuel quantity. So when I turn the engine with the starter without the ECU knowing that I want to start the engine, the injected fuel quantity remains at a minimum which is about what the engine needs to idle.
Only when the EZS sends the signal to start the engine the injection quantity is raised to start the engine.
By the way, this happens continuously. The mechanical pumps are in almost full throttle when the engine is starting, thats why they start alsmost without delay and often with a tiny black cloud from the exhaust. With the electronic pump, the engine always needs a second on the starter to start, even when its hot. I'm sure thats because the fuel quantity is raised carefully till the engine is running to prevent the engine from throwing those black clouds.
For me, that all means that my precious plans with the EZS all have to go into the trash. I cannot use the 124s ignitions switch, I have to use the FBS3 Key from the 202. Tomorrow I try to find a way to mount it somewhere and connect it to the 124s main electrics. I am gonna try to get the central locking from the 202 working, too, because I dont want to have to use two keys.
Yes, the engine is running
I used the StarDiagnosis to look into the ECU while I tried to start the engine. Turns out, without the engine already running at least with idle speed, the throttle pedal position has absolutlely no affect on the injected fuel quantity. So when I turn the engine with the starter without the ECU knowing that I want to start the engine, the injected fuel quantity remains at a minimum which is about what the engine needs to idle.
Only when the EZS sends the signal to start the engine the injection quantity is raised to start the engine.
By the way, this happens continuously. The mechanical pumps are in almost full throttle when the engine is starting, thats why they start alsmost without delay and often with a tiny black cloud from the exhaust. With the electronic pump, the engine always needs a second on the starter to start, even when its hot. I'm sure thats because the fuel quantity is raised carefully till the engine is running to prevent the engine from throwing those black clouds.
For me, that all means that my precious plans with the EZS all have to go into the trash. I cannot use the 124s ignitions switch, I have to use the FBS3 Key from the 202. Tomorrow I try to find a way to mount it somewhere and connect it to the 124s main electrics. I am gonna try to get the central locking from the 202 working, too, because I dont want to have to use two keys.
Great project! Im doing the same thing in a w201, luckily I have a complete drive-system from a -97 w202 with fbs2, so I dont need the abs/asr or electronic ignition systems. Great idea about gutting the w202 KI and lengthening the wires, im probably going to steal that one :-)
I removed the original ignition lock and replaced it with the EZS from the 202. Electrically, this was absolutely no Problem, the electric contacts are stronger in the EZS than in the original ignition switch and able to do much higher currents than needed. Installing the EZS in the correct position was kind of a pain in the ass. It fits very tight, but there are no holes or anything in the EZS to mount it to anything. So I made a bracket that fits where the original ignition lock sits, and glued the EZS with some epoxy to it.
![[Image: IMAG0440_zpsx7vrfx7m.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0440_zpsx7vrfx7m.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0442_zpsyl1fydoo.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0442_zpsyl1fydoo.jpg.html)
Maybe you noticed the speedo in the last picture? Yeah, I got a new speedo from a E 420! Im going to make it work with the speed signal that the ABS sends out for the radio etc.
At this time I did my first test drive. Result was limp mode from the beginning, Gearbox not shifting, ABS light on. Star Diagnosis showed multiple errors in all systems, most of them CAN related. So I used my good old multimeter and found a loose soldering connection on the CAN bus to the ABS. I resoldered it and now the car runs perfectly.
Next thing was the remote central locking. Turns out, it is a relatively simple system. The light unit above the inner mirror receives the signal from the key, sends it to the EZS via Comfort CAN-Bus, if the code from the key was correct the EZS tells the central locking pump via Comfort CAN to open the doors. So I just needed the light module and the pump, make a wiring harness to connect it to power and CAN from the EZS, and connect it to the pressure/vacuum lines of the original central locking pump.
![[Image: IMAG0448_zpsfwosfkox.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0448_zpsfwosfkox.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0450_zpsufdrfuma.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0450_zpsufdrfuma.jpg.html)
I stripped the light module from its housing and put it in a smaller housing, so it fits under the rear seats.
Works perfectly and the range is OK, too. I do not have an inside locking switch or my direction indicators working on locking or unlocking. Both would require moving the SAM, too. I think I can live without it.
![[Image: IMAG0443_zpsweaufdre.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0443_zpsweaufdre.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0445_zps8veimac0.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0445_zps8veimac0.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0446_zps9znu1iqt.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0446_zps9znu1iqt.jpg.html)
I am very proud to say, that the car is working! The last two days I almost completed the electronics and got the car running. It drives very well, I am so happy with the result
I removed the original ignition lock and replaced it with the EZS from the 202. Electrically, this was absolutely no Problem, the electric contacts are stronger in the EZS than in the original ignition switch and able to do much higher currents than needed. Installing the EZS in the correct position was kind of a pain in the ass. It fits very tight, but there are no holes or anything in the EZS to mount it to anything. So I made a bracket that fits where the original ignition lock sits, and glued the EZS with some epoxy to it.
Maybe you noticed the speedo in the last picture? Yeah, I got a new speedo from a E 420! Im going to make it work with the speed signal that the ABS sends out for the radio etc.
At this time I did my first test drive. Result was limp mode from the beginning, Gearbox not shifting, ABS light on. Star Diagnosis showed multiple errors in all systems, most of them CAN related. So I used my good old multimeter and found a loose soldering connection on the CAN bus to the ABS. I resoldered it and now the car runs perfectly.
Next thing was the remote central locking. Turns out, it is a relatively simple system. The light unit above the inner mirror receives the signal from the key, sends it to the EZS via Comfort CAN-Bus, if the code from the key was correct the EZS tells the central locking pump via Comfort CAN to open the doors. So I just needed the light module and the pump, make a wiring harness to connect it to power and CAN from the EZS, and connect it to the pressure/vacuum lines of the original central locking pump.
I stripped the light module from its housing and put it in a smaller housing, so it fits under the rear seats.
Works perfectly and the range is OK, too. I do not have an inside locking switch or my direction indicators working on locking or unlocking. Both would require moving the SAM, too. I think I can live without it.
Unfortunately I have some annoying vibrations from the back of the car. I hope its the propshaft, which is not balanced yet. I comes and goes at about 60km/h and is stronger at about 100km/h. Also, the engine is vibrating pretty much at idle when standing still. The old engine did this, too. I renewed them twice, without success. I guess the mounts are tensed.
I have also been in contact with the local engineer from the TÜV for some time now. I e-mailed him a few times. Today I talked to him on the phone. I didnt tell him the build is acutally 90% done, these guys like to be involved in the planning of such a project
Swapping engine, transmission and all the other stuff is no problem to him, even the speedometer is okay if I get it calibrated. A big problem for him is the brake system. The hydraulics and the electronics have never been designed for this car, so he wants some kind of approval from Mercedes-Benz or ATE for the use in a 124. I will never get something like that This is a big problem for me. What to do now? Paint the lines green, go to another engineer and hope he will not find out? Leave the car illegal is not an option. Even if I pass the inspection every two years, if I get involved in an accident where someone gets hurt due to a long braking distance I go to jail.
Went for a ride today. That was a lot of fun, the car behaves great. Power is enormous compared to the N/A it was before. Could be better at the top end, but from 2500rpm on it pulls like a bull. The transmission is a perfect match. Keeps the engine under load always where it should be and it changes gears like there are no gears. By far better than a 722.3, 4 or 5 ever could.
Unfortunately I have some annoying vibrations from the back of the car. I hope its the propshaft, which is not balanced yet. I comes and goes at about 60km/h and is stronger at about 100km/h. Also, the engine is vibrating pretty much at idle when standing still. The old engine did this, too. I renewed them twice, without success. I guess the mounts are tensed.
I have also been in contact with the local engineer from the TÜV for some time now. I e-mailed him a few times. Today I talked to him on the phone. I didnt tell him the build is acutally 90% done, these guys like to be involved in the planning of such a project Swapping engine, transmission and all the other stuff is no problem to him, even the speedometer is okay if I get it calibrated. A big problem for him is the brake system. The hydraulics and the electronics have never been designed for this car, so he wants some kind of approval from Mercedes-Benz or ATE for the use in a 124. I will never get something like that
This is a big problem for me. What to do now? Paint the lines green, go to another engineer and hope he will not find out? Leave the car illegal is not an option. Even if I pass the inspection every two years, if I get involved in an accident where someone gets hurt due to a long braking distance I go to jail.
(11-14-2015, 02:35 PM)Tobulus For the 722.6 with the original controller, you will need the ABS, I think.
Its not stealing when Im presenting the ideas here
Congrats on getting a running vehicle, looks great :-D
On the subject of ABS with the 722.6, you are absolutely correct. Tried it today and indeed the EGS goes to limp mode without ABS on the CAN-lines....sucks, really hoped that wouldnt be necessary. Luckily I have the complete ABS system, but didnt want to use it. Your planning of the build was obviously better from the start than mine.
(11-14-2015, 02:35 PM)Tobulus For the 722.6 with the original controller, you will need the ABS, I think.
Its not stealing when Im presenting the ideas here
Congrats on getting a running vehicle, looks great :-D
On the subject of ABS with the 722.6, you are absolutely correct. Tried it today and indeed the EGS goes to limp mode without ABS on the CAN-lines....sucks, really hoped that wouldnt be necessary. Luckily I have the complete ABS system, but didnt want to use it. Your planning of the build was obviously better from the start than mine.
Last week, I spent a lot of time collecting facts and documents for the TÜV engineer. I thought I could show, that the ABS in the 202 was idential in the 170 and 208. Also the diameters of the brake master cylinder and the brake cylinders are identical. I ended up writing a documentation about the whole project, with documents from WIS, EPC and other sources. Got to about 20 pages, and sent them to the man. I am awaiting his call
I also worked on my vibrations... I readjusted engine and transmission mounts and reduced the idling vibrations to what they were with the old engine. Still a lot too much, but I will have to experiment with the hydraulic mounts, too.
Then I checked the alignment of transmission, propshaft and diff. I found some 20 year old instruction on the WIS, I thought I could try it because I built the rear transmission mount myself and its probably not perfect
![[Image: IMAG0463_zpstfvzxjpe.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0463_zpstfvzxjpe.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0467_zpsgzrmtfcp.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0467_zpsgzrmtfcp.jpg.html)
In fact, the rear transmission mount was 3mm too low. I adjusted it with provisional with four washers. The result is astonishing. The vibrations under engine load are almost completely gone!
But the other vibrations were still there, I tried wheel balancing weights tied to the propshaft, to get an idea where the vibrations come from. I tried different weights and different positions, took the car for a testride after every change. I ended up with 7.5 grams where the vibrations were almost gone.
![[Image: IMAG0455_zpsgcbyodun.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0455_zpsgcbyodun.jpg.html)
I redid the job another day in a more professional way. I lifted the car up, removed the rear wheels and used two car-jacks to push up the rear suspensions to get the driveshafts in a driving orientation. Then I grinded an addition propshaft-nut to about 4mm thickness. I put it on the bolts of the rear flexdisc, one after the other, accelerating after every change to the wheelspeed of the most vibrations. Then i tried different weights by putting washers under the nuts and ended up with this:
![[Image: IMAG0514_zpshwtbsxat.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0514_zpshwtbsxat.jpg.html)
On the car jacks, there were still slight vibraitions, but on the road they are all completely gone. I am so damn happy with the resut
Some pictures of the s210 exhaust on the 124. Fits, but the catalyst is way to big for that position. Front silencer and cat are hanging very low. I will have to change that, but have to keep it for the TÜV (if the engineer is ever willing to accept my build)
![[Image: IMAG0516_zpsqbrm8rs2.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0516_zpsqbrm8rs2.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG0511_zpsvpnkjamy.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG0511_zpsvpnkjamy.jpg.html)
Maybe you can sniff the speed signal from the CANBus and send it with a microcontroller that calculates it from the old speedo... Thats what I thought would be the more elegant solution to the problem.
Last week, I spent a lot of time collecting facts and documents for the TÜV engineer. I thought I could show, that the ABS in the 202 was idential in the 170 and 208. Also the diameters of the brake master cylinder and the brake cylinders are identical. I ended up writing a documentation about the whole project, with documents from WIS, EPC and other sources. Got to about 20 pages, and sent them to the man. I am awaiting his call
I also worked on my vibrations... I readjusted engine and transmission mounts and reduced the idling vibrations to what they were with the old engine. Still a lot too much, but I will have to experiment with the hydraulic mounts, too.
Then I checked the alignment of transmission, propshaft and diff. I found some 20 year old instruction on the WIS, I thought I could try it because I built the rear transmission mount myself and its probably not perfect
In fact, the rear transmission mount was 3mm too low. I adjusted it with provisional with four washers. The result is astonishing. The vibrations under engine load are almost completely gone!
But the other vibrations were still there, I tried wheel balancing weights tied to the propshaft, to get an idea where the vibrations come from. I tried different weights and different positions, took the car for a testride after every change. I ended up with 7.5 grams where the vibrations were almost gone.
I redid the job another day in a more professional way. I lifted the car up, removed the rear wheels and used two car-jacks to push up the rear suspensions to get the driveshafts in a driving orientation. Then I grinded an addition propshaft-nut to about 4mm thickness. I put it on the bolts of the rear flexdisc, one after the other, accelerating after every change to the wheelspeed of the most vibrations. Then i tried different weights by putting washers under the nuts and ended up with this:
On the car jacks, there were still slight vibraitions, but on the road they are all completely gone. I am so damn happy with the resut
Some pictures of the s210 exhaust on the 124. Fits, but the catalyst is way to big for that position. Front silencer and cat are hanging very low. I will have to change that, but have to keep it for the TÜV (if the engineer is ever willing to accept my build)
So I have to make my speedo work. As I described earlier, I got a new E420 speedometer. V8 Speedos in the 124 were the electronic ones in the 124.
The ABS in the 202 sends out two speed signals on seperate wires. One from the front left, one from the front right sensor. These are used for taxameter, Radio etc. I recorded the signal with an oscilloscope, its a 50% rectangular signal with 12V maximum. Its about 25.000 pulses per kilometer. The speedo I got is adjusted for about 5000 pulses per kilometer. The difference is much too big to just adjust the speedo.
I decided to go the easy way and program a microcontroller to measure the frequency coming from the ABS and calculate the correct output frequency for the speedo. I also wanted to use a microcontroller to drive a small display to show Boost, exhaust temperature, battery voltage and some other stuff, so I can use that controller to drive the speedo, too.
I soldered something together and wrote some code, it works quite well so far.
![[Image: VIDEO0017_zps6zg4i0cd.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/VIDEO0017_zps6zg4i0cd.jpg.html)
I use te speed signal front left, recude it to 5V maximum, feed it to the controller, take the output signal, and send it to the speedometer.
I had three problems. The kilometer indicator kept on counting, even when the car stands still. I solved that one by setting the output to zero at less than 10km/h.
Second problem was the speedo falling to zero abouve 120km/h. The speedo is built to get an input signal from a inductive sensor, feeding a 50% rectangular signal is a bit of a problem. The solution was easy, I soldered a little inductance parallel to the speedo, it pulls the rectangular signal to almost zero but sends out a short peak voltage each time the signal is turned off by the controller. This works perfectly.
The last problem is not solved yet, from time to time the needle of the speedo falls down a bit. Just 3km/h and just for milliseconds, but it is a bit annoying. I think it will be a problem for the TÜV, too... Maybe I have to write some code to steam the output signal....
TÜV called a few days ago. The engineer had a couple of questions, but told me he would accept everything if its done as described in the plan I mailed him. I made an appointment for the inspection in about two weeks.
So I have to make my speedo work. As I described earlier, I got a new E420 speedometer. V8 Speedos in the 124 were the electronic ones in the 124.
The ABS in the 202 sends out two speed signals on seperate wires. One from the front left, one from the front right sensor. These are used for taxameter, Radio etc. I recorded the signal with an oscilloscope, its a 50% rectangular signal with 12V maximum. Its about 25.000 pulses per kilometer. The speedo I got is adjusted for about 5000 pulses per kilometer. The difference is much too big to just adjust the speedo.
I decided to go the easy way and program a microcontroller to measure the frequency coming from the ABS and calculate the correct output frequency for the speedo. I also wanted to use a microcontroller to drive a small display to show Boost, exhaust temperature, battery voltage and some other stuff, so I can use that controller to drive the speedo, too.
I soldered something together and wrote some code, it works quite well so far.
I use te speed signal front left, recude it to 5V maximum, feed it to the controller, take the output signal, and send it to the speedometer.
I had three problems. The kilometer indicator kept on counting, even when the car stands still. I solved that one by setting the output to zero at less than 10km/h.
Second problem was the speedo falling to zero abouve 120km/h. The speedo is built to get an input signal from a inductive sensor, feeding a 50% rectangular signal is a bit of a problem. The solution was easy, I soldered a little inductance parallel to the speedo, it pulls the rectangular signal to almost zero but sends out a short peak voltage each time the signal is turned off by the controller. This works perfectly.
The last problem is not solved yet, from time to time the needle of the speedo falls down a bit. Just 3km/h and just for milliseconds, but it is a bit annoying. I think it will be a problem for the TÜV, too... Maybe I have to write some code to steam the output signal....
I dont want to bother you all with details, but my build has been approved by the german TÜV
It took the engineer at the TÜV station about three hours to check all details, measure the new vehicle weight, measure engine loudness and all that stuff, and it cost about 450 Euros, but now everything is legal.
![[Image: IMAG10361_zpsxd6m7f0k.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG10361_zpsxd6m7f0k.jpg.html)
Hi,
I dont want to bother you all with details, but my build has been approved by the german TÜV
It took the engineer at the TÜV station about three hours to check all details, measure the new vehicle weight, measure engine loudness and all that stuff, and it cost about 450 Euros, but now everything is legal.
I think I am gonna fit a VNT Turbo, I already got a Gt2256v from a Sprinter 316. I am not looking for 300hp, but 200 with an almost lag-free spoolup would be great. Maybe I look a little deeper into the whole remap-thing... For the moment I am working on other projects
but a friend of mine did the same project with OM606 in a 124 T- Modell and registered it with a mechanical injection pump OM603, without problems
i will do it the same, my tüv guy is a very sympathetic man who understands the mechanics
Legal mechanical pump on a 606 or 605 Turbo is not possible in germany without a new emission test. That would be about 10.000€. On the other hand i guess there are a lot of TÜV engineers, that dont know about the difference and just look for the engine code, air filter and exhaust system. Mine did that, too, but in my case I wanted the electronic pump for the 722.6 transmission. I am very happy with it, it works a lot smoother than the mechanical pump. But its a lot harder to tweak,
Well done!
One thing that annoyed me very much is the gigantic turbo lag. I thought about using a microcontroller to fool the ECU and make it think there is more boost (only at lower boost levels) to inject more fuel. But I came to the conclusion, the only way to make the ECU do what I want is to do a remap, so I looked into how to do that.
The program code and the maps are stored on the both chips (hhh and lll) on the lower left in the picture.
![[Image: IMAG1209_zpsdif8oiem.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG1209_zpsdif8oiem.jpg.html)
Those are EPRoms, you cannot erase them. So you have to desolder them, read rhem with a programmer, modify it with (free) programming software, recalculate the checksums (also free software), write it to new chips and resolder these to the ECU.
Because you have to try different settings, it would be a lot of work the de- and resolder the chips every time you try a new setting. Its easier to solder sockets instead, so you just have to plug the chips into them. Also, instead of the EPRoms, you can use Flash Rom that you can erase and rewrite as often as you want.
The soldering was quite tricky, I had to try three times until all 64 contacts worked and the engine was running again
![[Image: IMAG1213_zpsiuz65hqg.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG1213_zpsiuz65hqg.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG1169_zpsr4pbfe2m.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG1169_zpsr4pbfe2m.jpg.html)
If somebody wants detailed information on this, I will answer any questions.
So far I am very happy with the result. Turbo lag is completely gone without starting to smoke. Its also a lot easier to tune the engine this way than turning screws which is always a lot like try and error.
Grüße
I have been driving the car so far without any Problems. Ich exchanged the hard 605 engine mounts for 601 mounts which massively reduced idle vibrations. I also removed the hard and low front springs for original ones.
One thing that annoyed me very much is the gigantic turbo lag. I thought about using a microcontroller to fool the ECU and make it think there is more boost (only at lower boost levels) to inject more fuel. But I came to the conclusion, the only way to make the ECU do what I want is to do a remap, so I looked into how to do that.
The program code and the maps are stored on the both chips (hhh and lll) on the lower left in the picture.
Those are EPRoms, you cannot erase them. So you have to desolder them, read rhem with a programmer, modify it with (free) programming software, recalculate the checksums (also free software), write it to new chips and resolder these to the ECU.
Because you have to try different settings, it would be a lot of work the de- and resolder the chips every time you try a new setting. Its easier to solder sockets instead, so you just have to plug the chips into them. Also, instead of the EPRoms, you can use Flash Rom that you can erase and rewrite as often as you want.
The soldering was quite tricky, I had to try three times until all 64 contacts worked and the engine was running again
If somebody wants detailed information on this, I will answer any questions.
So far I am very happy with the result. Turbo lag is completely gone without starting to smoke. Its also a lot easier to tune the engine this way than turning screws which is always a lot like try and error.
Grüße
![[Image: IMAG1233_zpswxhkxryq.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG1233_zpswxhkxryq.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG1237_zpstd1saawo.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG1237_zpstd1saawo.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG1238_zpsc9ppoohj.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG1238_zpsc9ppoohj.jpg.html)
![[Image: IMAG1240_zpsesknpn5q.jpg]](http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Tobulus/media/IMAG1240_zpsesknpn5q.jpg.html)
The 606 turbo builds boost 500RPM later than the stock one, but is capable of keeping it up to 5000 RPM. I remapped the ECU, added 30% more fuel and even a bit more at low boost from 1500 to 2500 RPM to get the turbo spooling quicker. I raised the boost level to 1.4 bar max from 3000 to 4000RPM. I am very happy so far. Turbo spools better than the stock turbo without remap, and power doesnt flat out above 4000RPM. I did 230km/h on my test drive till I got frightened due to snow-rain
A few days ago we mounted a 606 turbo to the 605 engine. Turbo fits the flange perfectly. The downpipe to the intercooler had to be shortened by 2cm because of the bigger compressor side, but fits perfectly to it. Oil pipes and air intake are the same size and same orientation, so they fit perfectly. The Downpipe is completely different. The 605 Turbo has an angle of about 35 degrees down and uses the standard two-bolt flange that the 603 also used. The 606 flange is straight horizontal and uses a big V-Clamp. We didnt have that downpipe and clamp, so we welded a spare flange from a 603 turbo to the 606 turbo. Both parts are made from cast steel, so it is a bit tricky to weld. But worked out very well.
The 606 turbo builds boost 500RPM later than the stock one, but is capable of keeping it up to 5000 RPM. I remapped the ECU, added 30% more fuel and even a bit more at low boost from 1500 to 2500 RPM to get the turbo spooling quicker. I raised the boost level to 1.4 bar max from 3000 to 4000RPM. I am very happy so far. Turbo spools better than the stock turbo without remap, and power doesnt flat out above 4000RPM. I did 230km/h on my test drive till I got frightened due to snow-rain
Still moving forward slowly step by step, but theres not much to show. Turns out remapping is a lot harder than playing with the three screws at the injection pump. There are just so much possibilities to tune the engine because you can not only tune the injection quantity at boost and no boost, but also in relation to temperature and rpm. I am at a point where I am more than happy with my maximum power. I managed to keep the original shifting quality and shifting points and also to spool the turbo quick enough (I dont like any lag). But I still have smoke at very low rpm and boost which I want to get rid of without affecting turbo spoolup-time.
I am running 1.5 bar (limited to 1.3 above 4000rpm) boost with very little smoke, I still have not maxed out the IQ by far. Went 230 km/h a few days ago still pushing very very good, but I decided to slow down due to my 190km/h winter tyres...
But I have fuel pressure problems. I am using a big fuel line (12mm inner diameter), but above 4000rpm on WVO at full power the engine starts to stutter a little. Maybe I have to go with an electical prepump. I already changed to a bigger prefilter and put a harder spring into the prepump, but that is not enough yet.
I also built an additional fuel tank for the smuggler compartment under the trunk. Works very good, I will put some images of it into here the other day
Thank you!
Still moving forward slowly step by step, but theres not much to show. Turns out remapping is a lot harder than playing with the three screws at the injection pump. There are just so much possibilities to tune the engine because you can not only tune the injection quantity at boost and no boost, but also in relation to temperature and rpm. I am at a point where I am more than happy with my maximum power. I managed to keep the original shifting quality and shifting points and also to spool the turbo quick enough (I dont like any lag). But I still have smoke at very low rpm and boost which I want to get rid of without affecting turbo spoolup-time.
I am running 1.5 bar (limited to 1.3 above 4000rpm) boost with very little smoke, I still have not maxed out the IQ by far. Went 230 km/h a few days ago still pushing very very good, but I decided to slow down due to my 190km/h winter tyres...
But I have fuel pressure problems. I am using a big fuel line (12mm inner diameter), but above 4000rpm on WVO at full power the engine starts to stutter a little. Maybe I have to go with an electical prepump. I already changed to a bigger prefilter and put a harder spring into the prepump, but that is not enough yet.
I also built an additional fuel tank for the smuggler compartment under the trunk. Works very good, I will put some images of it into here the other day
all thumbs up from me, too! Lots of great engineering in this project!
Your donor car looks exactly like my S202, what made me think I should have bought a better, more expensive and less rusty one...
I've got a lot of questions according to your DIY remap:
What soldering tools did you use to remove the original EPROM chips?
Whats the specification of the new EEPROMs? Are they 28C020?
Do you have to remove the chips every time you modify the maps?
Would you sell me a set of chips with your "+30% fuel 1.5bar" tune?
I want to modify the maps on my own in the future, but this would help me a lot as I do not have an EEPROM programmer, the software and of course the knowledge yet .
I have been looking for an emulator for the EPROMS but found no plug&play solution.
I got a petrol turbo car, too. There is a very nice emulator from moates.net called "the ostrich" that is plugged into the ecu instead of the original
rom chip. It has an usb port, you can alter the maps without taking apart anything, even when the engine is running.
Do you know if there is such a device for the Bosch ecu?
Thanks in advance, keep on that good work.
phil
___________________________
1996 vito 108d w638 om601 n/a
1996 c250 tdt s202 om605.960
Phil O' Dendron
03-25-2016, 07:27 AM #50Hi Tobolus,
all thumbs up from me, too! Lots of great engineering in this project!
Your donor car looks exactly like my S202, what made me think I should have bought a better, more expensive and less rusty one...
I've got a lot of questions according to your DIY remap:
What soldering tools did you use to remove the original EPROM chips?
Whats the specification of the new EEPROMs? Are they 28C020?
Do you have to remove the chips every time you modify the maps?
Would you sell me a set of chips with your "+30% fuel 1.5bar" tune?
I want to modify the maps on my own in the future, but this would help me a lot as I do not have an EEPROM programmer, the software and of course the knowledge yet .
I have been looking for an emulator for the EPROMS but found no plug&play solution.
I got a petrol turbo car, too. There is a very nice emulator from moates.net called "the ostrich" that is plugged into the ecu instead of the original
rom chip. It has an usb port, you can alter the maps without taking apart anything, even when the engine is running.
Do you know if there is such a device for the Bosch ecu?
Thanks in advance, keep on that good work.
phil
___________________________
1996 vito 108d w638 om601 n/a
1996 c250 tdt s202 om605.960
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