STD Tuning Engine 603 idle computer

603 idle computer

603 idle computer

 
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
 
martureo
GTA2056V

92
01-08-2016, 11:56 AM #1
I'm doing a 603 into a w123 swap. I know the 603 has an idle computer and I think I'd like to keep it.

Other than hooking it up to power and the tach(?) is there anything I need to do to make it work in a w123?

1983 300TD
1984 300D
1995 E300 (sold)
martureo
01-08-2016, 11:56 AM #1

I'm doing a 603 into a w123 swap. I know the 603 has an idle computer and I think I'd like to keep it.

Other than hooking it up to power and the tach(?) is there anything I need to do to make it work in a w123?


1983 300TD
1984 300D
1995 E300 (sold)

SurfRodder
Jackass Extraordinaire

611
01-12-2016, 07:30 PM #2
I'm curious about this as well...I think the pump can be lightly modified to have ilde mechanically controlled.

W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62
SurfRodder
01-12-2016, 07:30 PM #2

I'm curious about this as well...I think the pump can be lightly modified to have ilde mechanically controlled.


W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62

Tito
Holset

354
01-12-2016, 11:03 PM #3
It can indeed. Just set the idle rpm a little higher with the screw on top of the governor. However idle is now fixed at a certain quantity and will run lower on rpm when cold.
This post was last modified: 01-12-2016, 11:04 PM by Tito.
Tito
01-12-2016, 11:03 PM #3

It can indeed. Just set the idle rpm a little higher with the screw on top of the governor. However idle is now fixed at a certain quantity and will run lower on rpm when cold.

barrote
Superturbo

1,627
01-13-2016, 04:44 AM #4
hy
This pump has a ELR electronic idle increase, purpose: is for cold start A/C power incresse, take off aid , night driving, tow take off , ddada and so on ...
the idle speed is regulated in the only bolt coming out the governor , one turn give u more less 200RPM trhe thing is if u change it too much from the 700rpm probably the pump may loose some of the increase ability , or return to idle ability.
a small touch in the idle damper may be needed.
basically if u want to use that, u have to remove the controler from the donnor car , is actuated by coolant temp for cold start , by a/c switch for A/C and by clutch sensor for take off aid.
if u want a direct turn on just feed it with 12 volt dc it will work , limit is 7 volts pwm 10hz , but it handles 12v for short periods of time.

FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
barrote
01-13-2016, 04:44 AM #4

hy
This pump has a ELR electronic idle increase, purpose: is for cold start A/C power incresse, take off aid , night driving, tow take off , ddada and so on ...
the idle speed is regulated in the only bolt coming out the governor , one turn give u more less 200RPM trhe thing is if u change it too much from the 700rpm probably the pump may loose some of the increase ability , or return to idle ability.
a small touch in the idle damper may be needed.
basically if u want to use that, u have to remove the controler from the donnor car , is actuated by coolant temp for cold start , by a/c switch for A/C and by clutch sensor for take off aid.
if u want a direct turn on just feed it with 12 volt dc it will work , limit is 7 volts pwm 10hz , but it handles 12v for short periods of time.


FD,
Powered by tractor fuel

01-13-2016, 01:41 PM #5
It's easy to wire in... Take out the complete engine loom, implant - done. I'd make use of the OVP (silver relais with red top and one or two fuses on top), it protects the idle ECU from overvolatage. Just needs ignition switched +12V from the fuse box. There are wiring diagrammes to be found on w124performance.com - it looks complicated at first, but it's simple actually. It'll also generate a TD (RPM) signal for a rev-counter which is handy.

Kickdown/AC is controlled by a separate ECU which also gets it's current from the OVP.

Or in short: remove all wiring you can from the car and then decide how far you want to integrate it. What I don't know is how kick-down is controlled on the W123 chassis/OM617.

If it's too much hassle, as mentioned, usually a ficed idle works well. I couldn't stall the engine even with too low idle (when the ELR was not yet working)... Smile So you have a Plan A and a Plan B Smile

____________________________________

'88 300CD Turbo Coupé - OM603
DiseaselWeasel
01-13-2016, 01:41 PM #5

It's easy to wire in... Take out the complete engine loom, implant - done. I'd make use of the OVP (silver relais with red top and one or two fuses on top), it protects the idle ECU from overvolatage. Just needs ignition switched +12V from the fuse box. There are wiring diagrammes to be found on w124performance.com - it looks complicated at first, but it's simple actually. It'll also generate a TD (RPM) signal for a rev-counter which is handy.

Kickdown/AC is controlled by a separate ECU which also gets it's current from the OVP.

Or in short: remove all wiring you can from the car and then decide how far you want to integrate it. What I don't know is how kick-down is controlled on the W123 chassis/OM617.

If it's too much hassle, as mentioned, usually a ficed idle works well. I couldn't stall the engine even with too low idle (when the ELR was not yet working)... Smile So you have a Plan A and a Plan B Smile


____________________________________

'88 300CD Turbo Coupé - OM603

 
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
Users browsing this thread:
 1 Guest(s)
Users browsing this thread:
 1 Guest(s)