STD Other Projects OM617 in a Jeep TJ

OM617 in a Jeep TJ

OM617 in a Jeep TJ

 
  • 1 Vote(s) - 5 Average
 
DrewGerhan
If it don't blow black, take it back!

101
02-09-2016, 05:24 PM #1
Well back around Christmas I yanked the motor out of my SD. It had honestly gotten too rusty to put any more money into. It ran great, so I turned my eyes to a newly acquired Wrangler. 

Long story short, the OM617 is in the Jeep mated to the original AX-15 5 speed and transfer case. Had to make some mounts and deal with a lot of quirks. The adapter plate came from Nathan at Mercedesdiesel4x4. Had to delete the oil filter housing and use a remote filter base. I kept the Jeep radiator and made an elbow to splice two houses together for the lower hose. All the Jeep gauges work, with the exception of the tach for some reason... I used the Mercedes pump and Jeep steering gear after welding my own lines together. Mercedes alternator is easy to wire up in the Jeep too. Kit retains the Jeep starter as well. The oil pan had to be notched, even with a 3.25" lift. Glow plugs are set up to a ignition on switch and a starter solenoid.

All in all it was a relatively easy swap, all things considered. I filled it up with 2 gallons of coolant and a gallon of water. Not ideal, but I was trying to figure out the capacity. 

I took it out for a test drive and it is pretty fun to drive. It has 3.07 gears and 31" tires. I want to put 4.88s and 33s on it. It definitely needs a lower set of gears in it. 5th is about worthless lol. 

On my test drive it died a couple times. At first it was when. I'd push in the clutch, coasting to a stop. After another 10 miles it would hardly stay running without a lot of pedal modulation. Eventually I got it home and it would only crank then immediately die. Now, two days later, it only cranks. I cracked an injector line and cranked and there appears to be fuel coming out. I don't think it's as much as it should be though. I already ordered an updated primer pump and both fuel filters, should be here Friday. If that doesn't solve it, I'm not sure where to start. I guess it could be glow plugs but that wouldn't explain it dieing.

I'm hoping it just got full of junk from the Jeep fuel tank and lines. Like I said, it has ran great in the car for the past 40,000 miles.

Anybody have any thoughts/bets?


Here's some pictures for ya.
https://goo.gl/photos/wm8TyU4qo1wQQ5rR6

1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE
DrewGerhan
02-09-2016, 05:24 PM #1

Well back around Christmas I yanked the motor out of my SD. It had honestly gotten too rusty to put any more money into. It ran great, so I turned my eyes to a newly acquired Wrangler. 

Long story short, the OM617 is in the Jeep mated to the original AX-15 5 speed and transfer case. Had to make some mounts and deal with a lot of quirks. The adapter plate came from Nathan at Mercedesdiesel4x4. Had to delete the oil filter housing and use a remote filter base. I kept the Jeep radiator and made an elbow to splice two houses together for the lower hose. All the Jeep gauges work, with the exception of the tach for some reason... I used the Mercedes pump and Jeep steering gear after welding my own lines together. Mercedes alternator is easy to wire up in the Jeep too. Kit retains the Jeep starter as well. The oil pan had to be notched, even with a 3.25" lift. Glow plugs are set up to a ignition on switch and a starter solenoid.

All in all it was a relatively easy swap, all things considered. I filled it up with 2 gallons of coolant and a gallon of water. Not ideal, but I was trying to figure out the capacity. 

I took it out for a test drive and it is pretty fun to drive. It has 3.07 gears and 31" tires. I want to put 4.88s and 33s on it. It definitely needs a lower set of gears in it. 5th is about worthless lol. 

On my test drive it died a couple times. At first it was when. I'd push in the clutch, coasting to a stop. After another 10 miles it would hardly stay running without a lot of pedal modulation. Eventually I got it home and it would only crank then immediately die. Now, two days later, it only cranks. I cracked an injector line and cranked and there appears to be fuel coming out. I don't think it's as much as it should be though. I already ordered an updated primer pump and both fuel filters, should be here Friday. If that doesn't solve it, I'm not sure where to start. I guess it could be glow plugs but that wouldn't explain it dieing.

I'm hoping it just got full of junk from the Jeep fuel tank and lines. Like I said, it has ran great in the car for the past 40,000 miles.

Anybody have any thoughts/bets?


Here's some pictures for ya.
https://goo.gl/photos/wm8TyU4qo1wQQ5rR6


1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE

mcwfxx
K26-2

37
02-09-2016, 07:29 PM #2
(02-09-2016, 05:24 PM)DrewGerhan Well back around Christmas I yanked the motor out of my SD. It had honestly gotten too rusty to put any more money into. It ran great, so I turned my eyes to a newly acquired Wrangler. 

Long story short, the OM617 is in the Jeep mated to the original AX-15 5 speed and transfer case. Had to make some mounts and deal with a lot of quirks. The adapter plate came from Nathan at Mercedesdiesel4x4. Had to delete the oil filter housing and use a remote filter base. I kept the Jeep radiator and made an elbow to splice two houses together for the lower hose. All the Jeep gauges work, with the exception of the tach for some reason... I used the Mercedes pump and Jeep steering gear after welding my own lines together. Mercedes alternator is easy to wire up in the Jeep too. Kit retains the Jeep starter as well. The oil pan had to be notched, even with a 3.25" lift. Glow plugs are set up to a ignition on switch and a starter solenoid.

All in all it was a relatively easy swap, all things considered. I filled it up with 2 gallons of coolant and a gallon of water. Not ideal, but I was trying to figure out the capacity. 

I took it out for a test drive and it is pretty fun to drive. It has 3.07 gears and 31" tires. I want to put 4.88s and 33s on it. It definitely needs a lower set of gears in it. 5th is about worthless lol. 

On my test drive it died a couple times. At first it was when. I'd push in the clutch, coasting to a stop. After another 10 miles it would hardly stay running without a lot of pedal modulation. Eventually I got it home and it would only crank then immediately die. Now, two days later, it only cranks. I cracked an injector line and cranked and there appears to be fuel coming out. I don't think it's as much as it should be though. I already ordered an updated primer pump and both fuel filters, should be here Friday. If that doesn't solve it, I'm not sure where to start. I guess it could be glow plugs but that wouldn't explain it dieing.

I'm hoping it just got full of junk from the Jeep fuel tank and lines. Like I said, it has ran great in the car for the past 40,000 miles.

Anybody have any thoughts/bets?


Here's some pictures for ya.
https://goo.gl/photos/wm8TyU4qo1wQQ5rR6

I'm no expert, but sounds very much like mine when i had a blocked filter / dodgy prefilter O-ring on my 606 in the w210 i had. wouldnt idle, then limited power, then wouldn't start. Happened very quickly to me too. Swapped filters, filled filters when fitting as battery nearly flat, and off she went :-)

Fingers crossed it's just your filter :-)

---
W639 Vito OM606 + 722.6 STD - in progress

Current progress: engine in, gearbox in, bumper bar modified to accept w210 radiator, audi electric fan, very tight squeeze, interior stripped out ready for new seats (w211) and custom dash with w211 clocks controlled by arduino with split fuel gauge covering main tank and auxiliary for Veg Oil ...

- DSL1 ECU for Electronic OM606 Pump (currently fitting wiring)
Next; 722.6 Controller, HX40 with homemade manifold, Air-to-water intercooler, homemade exhaust, MOT.... One day!



mcwfxx
02-09-2016, 07:29 PM #2

(02-09-2016, 05:24 PM)DrewGerhan Well back around Christmas I yanked the motor out of my SD. It had honestly gotten too rusty to put any more money into. It ran great, so I turned my eyes to a newly acquired Wrangler. 

Long story short, the OM617 is in the Jeep mated to the original AX-15 5 speed and transfer case. Had to make some mounts and deal with a lot of quirks. The adapter plate came from Nathan at Mercedesdiesel4x4. Had to delete the oil filter housing and use a remote filter base. I kept the Jeep radiator and made an elbow to splice two houses together for the lower hose. All the Jeep gauges work, with the exception of the tach for some reason... I used the Mercedes pump and Jeep steering gear after welding my own lines together. Mercedes alternator is easy to wire up in the Jeep too. Kit retains the Jeep starter as well. The oil pan had to be notched, even with a 3.25" lift. Glow plugs are set up to a ignition on switch and a starter solenoid.

All in all it was a relatively easy swap, all things considered. I filled it up with 2 gallons of coolant and a gallon of water. Not ideal, but I was trying to figure out the capacity. 

I took it out for a test drive and it is pretty fun to drive. It has 3.07 gears and 31" tires. I want to put 4.88s and 33s on it. It definitely needs a lower set of gears in it. 5th is about worthless lol. 

On my test drive it died a couple times. At first it was when. I'd push in the clutch, coasting to a stop. After another 10 miles it would hardly stay running without a lot of pedal modulation. Eventually I got it home and it would only crank then immediately die. Now, two days later, it only cranks. I cracked an injector line and cranked and there appears to be fuel coming out. I don't think it's as much as it should be though. I already ordered an updated primer pump and both fuel filters, should be here Friday. If that doesn't solve it, I'm not sure where to start. I guess it could be glow plugs but that wouldn't explain it dieing.

I'm hoping it just got full of junk from the Jeep fuel tank and lines. Like I said, it has ran great in the car for the past 40,000 miles.

Anybody have any thoughts/bets?


Here's some pictures for ya.
https://goo.gl/photos/wm8TyU4qo1wQQ5rR6

I'm no expert, but sounds very much like mine when i had a blocked filter / dodgy prefilter O-ring on my 606 in the w210 i had. wouldnt idle, then limited power, then wouldn't start. Happened very quickly to me too. Swapped filters, filled filters when fitting as battery nearly flat, and off she went :-)

Fingers crossed it's just your filter :-)


---
W639 Vito OM606 + 722.6 STD - in progress

Current progress: engine in, gearbox in, bumper bar modified to accept w210 radiator, audi electric fan, very tight squeeze, interior stripped out ready for new seats (w211) and custom dash with w211 clocks controlled by arduino with split fuel gauge covering main tank and auxiliary for Veg Oil ...

- DSL1 ECU for Electronic OM606 Pump (currently fitting wiring)
Next; 722.6 Controller, HX40 with homemade manifold, Air-to-water intercooler, homemade exhaust, MOT.... One day!



MFSuper90
Budget Builder

1,533
02-09-2016, 07:37 PM #3
I agree with mcw, fuel filters sound like the culprit to me.

I honestly don't think glow plugs would have an effect on that, because they only operate before the starting of the engine

'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         
MFSuper90
02-09-2016, 07:37 PM #3

I agree with mcw, fuel filters sound like the culprit to me.

I honestly don't think glow plugs would have an effect on that, because they only operate before the starting of the engine


'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         

DrewGerhan
If it don't blow black, take it back!

101
02-09-2016, 07:58 PM #4
Thanks guys. I have a hard time think it's anything else, but you never know. Always the worst case scenario in the back of your head.

MFSuper, where is MOV, Ohio? I'm near Findlay in Northwest Ohio.

1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE
DrewGerhan
02-09-2016, 07:58 PM #4

Thanks guys. I have a hard time think it's anything else, but you never know. Always the worst case scenario in the back of your head.

MFSuper, where is MOV, Ohio? I'm near Findlay in Northwest Ohio.


1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE

MFSuper90
Budget Builder

1,533
02-09-2016, 08:57 PM #5
Mid-Ohio valley. But I live in Marietta, pretty much the opposite end of the state. I went to school at ATI in Wooster, I have several friend up your way.

'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         
MFSuper90
02-09-2016, 08:57 PM #5

Mid-Ohio valley. But I live in Marietta, pretty much the opposite end of the state. I went to school at ATI in Wooster, I have several friend up your way.


'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         

DrewGerhan
If it don't blow black, take it back!

101
02-09-2016, 10:19 PM #6
Nice, I went to OU. I've got a bunch of friends down that way still. Know a few people that went to ATI too.

1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE
DrewGerhan
02-09-2016, 10:19 PM #6

Nice, I went to OU. I've got a bunch of friends down that way still. Know a few people that went to ATI too.


1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE

MFSuper90
Budget Builder

1,533
02-10-2016, 07:33 AM #7
Small world! I like the idea of a 617 in a jeep, sounds fun!

'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         
MFSuper90
02-10-2016, 07:33 AM #7

Small world! I like the idea of a 617 in a jeep, sounds fun!


'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         

DrewGerhan
If it don't blow black, take it back!

101
02-13-2016, 06:11 PM #8
Got my new filters and primer pump put on today. Bought some power service and hooked up a bottle to bypass the tank. Got it all primed and cracked each line. Fuel is coming out at each cylinder. Still no start. Oil pressure builds during cranking.

I had it hooked up to with jumper cables to a running Ranger during all this cranking. Seemed to be spinning fast enough. I'm starting to wonder about the glow plugs. Actually, not so much the glow plugs themselves, but the wiring. Specifically the ground from engine to frame and body. I can hear the solenoid click when I engage them, but its acting like the glow plugs aren't functioning at all.

It couldn't be the shut off valve on the pump right? If that were malfunctioning, wouldn't there not be fuel at the injectors? The valve is currently disconnected.

I was sure it was just dirty fuel or air in the system, but after this it had me concerned it might be something else? I fixed my block heater plug and plugged it in about an hour ago. It certainly isn't helping that's its super cold and hasn't been running since last Sunday. It's really odd that it started driving great and then gradually got worse until no start. The coolant sensor works and it never went above 150F on my drive. The haven't drained the oil, but there isn't any coolant when I pull the dipstick.

Andbody have any ideas? I'll report back after I try with it being plugged in.

1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE
DrewGerhan
02-13-2016, 06:11 PM #8

Got my new filters and primer pump put on today. Bought some power service and hooked up a bottle to bypass the tank. Got it all primed and cracked each line. Fuel is coming out at each cylinder. Still no start. Oil pressure builds during cranking.

I had it hooked up to with jumper cables to a running Ranger during all this cranking. Seemed to be spinning fast enough. I'm starting to wonder about the glow plugs. Actually, not so much the glow plugs themselves, but the wiring. Specifically the ground from engine to frame and body. I can hear the solenoid click when I engage them, but its acting like the glow plugs aren't functioning at all.

It couldn't be the shut off valve on the pump right? If that were malfunctioning, wouldn't there not be fuel at the injectors? The valve is currently disconnected.

I was sure it was just dirty fuel or air in the system, but after this it had me concerned it might be something else? I fixed my block heater plug and plugged it in about an hour ago. It certainly isn't helping that's its super cold and hasn't been running since last Sunday. It's really odd that it started driving great and then gradually got worse until no start. The coolant sensor works and it never went above 150F on my drive. The haven't drained the oil, but there isn't any coolant when I pull the dipstick.

Andbody have any ideas? I'll report back after I try with it being plugged in.


1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE

NZScott
HX30W 73/44mm

398
02-13-2016, 07:34 PM #9
Got any white smoke out the exhaust? If so then it's an "ignition" problem, not fuel


1978 300D, 373,000km... OM617.912 with a Holset HX30W, 7.5mm IP, 711.113 5 speed (project car, 7 years off the road and counting ;/)
1977 250 270,000km (parts car)
1977 300D (ex 280) 500,000km

1981 240D 498,000
1975 HJ45 ???,000
2001 2.8TD Rodeo 4x2 - 456,000 - DD




NZScott
02-13-2016, 07:34 PM #9

Got any white smoke out the exhaust? If so then it's an "ignition" problem, not fuel



1978 300D, 373,000km... OM617.912 with a Holset HX30W, 7.5mm IP, 711.113 5 speed (project car, 7 years off the road and counting ;/)
1977 250 270,000km (parts car)
1977 300D (ex 280) 500,000km

1981 240D 498,000
1975 HJ45 ???,000
2001 2.8TD Rodeo 4x2 - 456,000 - DD




DrewGerhan
If it don't blow black, take it back!

101
02-13-2016, 07:44 PM #10
It's hard to tell. The exhaust dumps out underneath it and with the wind its almost impossible to see.

I was looking for that though. Maybe if I can push it in the garage, I'll have more luck.

1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE
DrewGerhan
02-13-2016, 07:44 PM #10

It's hard to tell. The exhaust dumps out underneath it and with the wind its almost impossible to see.

I was looking for that though. Maybe if I can push it in the garage, I'll have more luck.


1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE

NZScott
HX30W 73/44mm

398
02-13-2016, 08:32 PM #11
Aha. Hmmmm....

My engines have always started without glowing but it never gets properly cold here, so wouldn't know if your engine would have a hope to start in your weather without glowing


1978 300D, 373,000km... OM617.912 with a Holset HX30W, 7.5mm IP, 711.113 5 speed (project car, 7 years off the road and counting ;/)
1977 250 270,000km (parts car)
1977 300D (ex 280) 500,000km

1981 240D 498,000
1975 HJ45 ???,000
2001 2.8TD Rodeo 4x2 - 456,000 - DD




NZScott
02-13-2016, 08:32 PM #11

Aha. Hmmmm....

My engines have always started without glowing but it never gets properly cold here, so wouldn't know if your engine would have a hope to start in your weather without glowing



1978 300D, 373,000km... OM617.912 with a Holset HX30W, 7.5mm IP, 711.113 5 speed (project car, 7 years off the road and counting ;/)
1977 250 270,000km (parts car)
1977 300D (ex 280) 500,000km

1981 240D 498,000
1975 HJ45 ???,000
2001 2.8TD Rodeo 4x2 - 456,000 - DD




MFSuper90
Budget Builder

1,533
02-13-2016, 09:55 PM #12
No chance to start without glow plugs in Ohio. Mine won't start below 75f without glowplugs, but will start at 0f with them.
If you have fuel at the injectors definitely not a fuel problem unless there is air in the system. Make sure you are getting a full 12v to the plugs when you are trying to glow them. Are you using the stock Mercedes glow plug timer?

NZscott, I had to google where New Zealand was even at  Blush
This post was last modified: 02-13-2016, 09:58 PM by MFSuper90.

'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         
MFSuper90
02-13-2016, 09:55 PM #12

No chance to start without glow plugs in Ohio. Mine won't start below 75f without glowplugs, but will start at 0f with them.
If you have fuel at the injectors definitely not a fuel problem unless there is air in the system. Make sure you are getting a full 12v to the plugs when you are trying to glow them. Are you using the stock Mercedes glow plug timer?

NZscott, I had to google where New Zealand was even at  Blush


'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         

DrewGerhan
If it don't blow black, take it back!

101
02-14-2016, 08:11 AM #13
I'm using a solenoid and switch in place of the Mercedes glow plugs relay.

The block heater has been plugged in all night. It's my first time using it, should the engine be warm in any places (radiator hoses, block, pan?) since its been on?

1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE
DrewGerhan
02-14-2016, 08:11 AM #13

I'm using a solenoid and switch in place of the Mercedes glow plugs relay.

The block heater has been plugged in all night. It's my first time using it, should the engine be warm in any places (radiator hoses, block, pan?) since its been on?


1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE

DrewGerhan
If it don't blow black, take it back!

101
02-15-2016, 08:34 AM #14
Got it running again last night!!

It was definitely a glow plug issue causing the no start. Either my solenoid is bad, the wire from the battery to solenoid is bad. or there is a ground issue. When I hooked the glow plugs up directly to the battery with red side of jumper cables and grounded the motor to the battery with the black side of the cables, it started right up.

The solenoid clicks as it should when "turning it on" so I am leaning more towards wiring first.

It's nice when things work out!

1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE
DrewGerhan
02-15-2016, 08:34 AM #14

Got it running again last night!!

It was definitely a glow plug issue causing the no start. Either my solenoid is bad, the wire from the battery to solenoid is bad. or there is a ground issue. When I hooked the glow plugs up directly to the battery with red side of jumper cables and grounded the motor to the battery with the black side of the cables, it started right up.

The solenoid clicks as it should when "turning it on" so I am leaning more towards wiring first.

It's nice when things work out!


1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE

MFSuper90
Budget Builder

1,533
02-15-2016, 10:33 AM #15
Glad to hear you got it running, be careful to not glow them for too long, it will burn them up. But you'd have to glow them for a pretty long time to hurt them.

As far as the block heater goes, normally you can hear it bubbling After you plug it in. And after a couple hours (2-3) the block should be warm to the touch.

'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         
MFSuper90
02-15-2016, 10:33 AM #15

Glad to hear you got it running, be careful to not glow them for too long, it will burn them up. But you'd have to glow them for a pretty long time to hurt them.

As far as the block heater goes, normally you can hear it bubbling After you plug it in. And after a couple hours (2-3) the block should be warm to the touch.


'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler Big Grin
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted         

turbojeep
Off roading luxury sedans

81
02-16-2016, 08:49 AM #16
Glad to hear you have it working. On our Jeep, you can't get it started without the GP firing. Are you using a Merc GP setup? If so the bullet connections can loosen up occasionally.

How's the power when driving it? I had to add a small diesel electric pump, as a helper. Made a world of difference in 4th and 5th.
This post was last modified: 02-17-2016, 01:42 AM by turbojeep.

______________________________

'85 300D ~ 381,XXX miles, HD Bilstein shocks, 27.50x8.50x14R General Grabber AT2 tires, 4 E-Code headlight upgrade with 90w/130w bulbs, boost turned up, new timing chain, and injectors. Brought back from the dead and the hell of WVO! SOLD
'85 CJ7 ~ OM617 swap, Taurus electric fan, T5 trans, Dana 300, 4.88 R&P, Mile Marker locking hubs, ALDA removed, MKII hybrid boost controller, Greazzer's upgraded overflow valve,  AMC 20 rear disk brake conversion, Aussie locked with 33's and 5" Rough Country lift. 
turbojeep
02-16-2016, 08:49 AM #16

Glad to hear you have it working. On our Jeep, you can't get it started without the GP firing. Are you using a Merc GP setup? If so the bullet connections can loosen up occasionally.

How's the power when driving it? I had to add a small diesel electric pump, as a helper. Made a world of difference in 4th and 5th.


______________________________

'85 300D ~ 381,XXX miles, HD Bilstein shocks, 27.50x8.50x14R General Grabber AT2 tires, 4 E-Code headlight upgrade with 90w/130w bulbs, boost turned up, new timing chain, and injectors. Brought back from the dead and the hell of WVO! SOLD
'85 CJ7 ~ OM617 swap, Taurus electric fan, T5 trans, Dana 300, 4.88 R&P, Mile Marker locking hubs, ALDA removed, MKII hybrid boost controller, Greazzer's upgraded overflow valve,  AMC 20 rear disk brake conversion, Aussie locked with 33's and 5" Rough Country lift. 

DrewGerhan
If it don't blow black, take it back!

101
02-16-2016, 08:58 AM #17
How do you like 4.88s and 33s? I want 33s eventually and an torn between 4.56 and 4.88 gears.

Power was about the same as when it was in the SD. I think a lot of it was due to plugged filters and drawing fuel through the Jeep fuel pressure regulator/check valve. I plan to run a sump and not worry about that. I think a small pump would be a good idea to add too.

These motors definitely don't like to be lugged around. Higher revs are better!
This post was last modified: 02-16-2016, 09:02 AM by DrewGerhan.

1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE
DrewGerhan
02-16-2016, 08:58 AM #17

How do you like 4.88s and 33s? I want 33s eventually and an torn between 4.56 and 4.88 gears.

Power was about the same as when it was in the SD. I think a lot of it was due to plugged filters and drawing fuel through the Jeep fuel pressure regulator/check valve. I plan to run a sump and not worry about that. I think a small pump would be a good idea to add too.

These motors definitely don't like to be lugged around. Higher revs are better!


1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE

DrewGerhan
If it don't blow black, take it back!

101
02-16-2016, 09:07 AM #18
Last summer I could start the car without waiting for the glow plugs to heat. I think this was a comedy of errors caused by extreme cold, plugged filters, leaking primer pump and bad ground to engine.

I need to do a valve adjustment and modify pump timing too when I get a chance. Grezzers 315 injectors helped wake it up a little bit too.

1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE
DrewGerhan
02-16-2016, 09:07 AM #18

Last summer I could start the car without waiting for the glow plugs to heat. I think this was a comedy of errors caused by extreme cold, plugged filters, leaking primer pump and bad ground to engine.

I need to do a valve adjustment and modify pump timing too when I get a chance. Grezzers 315 injectors helped wake it up a little bit too.


1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE

turbojeep
Off roading luxury sedans

81
02-17-2016, 01:57 AM #19
Mainly went that route so that I could upgrade to 35s down the road if I wanted to, and that we have a very large harbor bridge that I was hoping to be able to take in 5th. With the 4.88s and a .85 OD, I should be right around 3000rpms at 70mph, which is what the stock MB are geared at. Gearing is perfect around town, and is a blast to bomb around in. While there was a huge difference from the stock 3.31s, I feel like it should have some more grunt at the higher speeds and in OD. I will say that I am now able to leave 15ft skid mark on dry pavement now.  Big Grin  But I have been plagued with fuel starvation issues that I am hoping will be remedied this week and I will be able to give a real full account. With the new CLEAN tank and the tweaked IP going in, I am fully expecting to have a good deal more power.

______________________________

'85 300D ~ 381,XXX miles, HD Bilstein shocks, 27.50x8.50x14R General Grabber AT2 tires, 4 E-Code headlight upgrade with 90w/130w bulbs, boost turned up, new timing chain, and injectors. Brought back from the dead and the hell of WVO! SOLD
'85 CJ7 ~ OM617 swap, Taurus electric fan, T5 trans, Dana 300, 4.88 R&P, Mile Marker locking hubs, ALDA removed, MKII hybrid boost controller, Greazzer's upgraded overflow valve,  AMC 20 rear disk brake conversion, Aussie locked with 33's and 5" Rough Country lift. 
turbojeep
02-17-2016, 01:57 AM #19

Mainly went that route so that I could upgrade to 35s down the road if I wanted to, and that we have a very large harbor bridge that I was hoping to be able to take in 5th. With the 4.88s and a .85 OD, I should be right around 3000rpms at 70mph, which is what the stock MB are geared at. Gearing is perfect around town, and is a blast to bomb around in. While there was a huge difference from the stock 3.31s, I feel like it should have some more grunt at the higher speeds and in OD. I will say that I am now able to leave 15ft skid mark on dry pavement now.  Big Grin  But I have been plagued with fuel starvation issues that I am hoping will be remedied this week and I will be able to give a real full account. With the new CLEAN tank and the tweaked IP going in, I am fully expecting to have a good deal more power.


______________________________

'85 300D ~ 381,XXX miles, HD Bilstein shocks, 27.50x8.50x14R General Grabber AT2 tires, 4 E-Code headlight upgrade with 90w/130w bulbs, boost turned up, new timing chain, and injectors. Brought back from the dead and the hell of WVO! SOLD
'85 CJ7 ~ OM617 swap, Taurus electric fan, T5 trans, Dana 300, 4.88 R&P, Mile Marker locking hubs, ALDA removed, MKII hybrid boost controller, Greazzer's upgraded overflow valve,  AMC 20 rear disk brake conversion, Aussie locked with 33's and 5" Rough Country lift. 

DrewGerhan
If it don't blow black, take it back!

101
02-17-2016, 09:55 AM #20
(02-17-2016, 01:57 AM)turbojeep Mainly went that route so that I could upgrade to 35s down the road if I wanted to, and that we have a very large harbor bridge that I was hoping to be able to take in 5th. With the 4.88s and a .85 OD, I should be right around 3000rpms at 70mph, which is what the stock MB are geared at. Gearing is perfect around town, and is a blast to bomb around in. While there was a huge difference from the stock 3.31s, I feel like it should have some more grunt at the higher speeds and in OD. I will say that I am now able to leave 15ft skid mark on dry pavement now.  Big Grin  But I have been plagued with fuel starvation issues that I am hoping will be remedied this week and I will be able to give a real full account. With the new CLEAN tank and the tweaked IP going in, I am fully expecting to have a good deal more power.

I need to get my tach working so I can have a better idea of RPMs. We did this swap in my buddy's TJ and his was a 4cyl originally, so he's got 4.10s running 35s. It was pretty peppy when he had 33s, but its kind of a dog now. Stock pump though.

1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE
DrewGerhan
02-17-2016, 09:55 AM #20

(02-17-2016, 01:57 AM)turbojeep Mainly went that route so that I could upgrade to 35s down the road if I wanted to, and that we have a very large harbor bridge that I was hoping to be able to take in 5th. With the 4.88s and a .85 OD, I should be right around 3000rpms at 70mph, which is what the stock MB are geared at. Gearing is perfect around town, and is a blast to bomb around in. While there was a huge difference from the stock 3.31s, I feel like it should have some more grunt at the higher speeds and in OD. I will say that I am now able to leave 15ft skid mark on dry pavement now.  Big Grin  But I have been plagued with fuel starvation issues that I am hoping will be remedied this week and I will be able to give a real full account. With the new CLEAN tank and the tweaked IP going in, I am fully expecting to have a good deal more power.

I need to get my tach working so I can have a better idea of RPMs. We did this swap in my buddy's TJ and his was a 4cyl originally, so he's got 4.10s running 35s. It was pretty peppy when he had 33s, but its kind of a dog now. Stock pump though.


1981 300SD 230k miles "Gently Modified" Daily Driver

1999 F-250 7.3L Power Stroke 150k miles "The Usual Mods" Tow Rig

1981 300SD 190k miles "Heavily Modified" Big Grin  GONE

turbojeep
Off roading luxury sedans

81
02-17-2016, 01:51 PM #21
A temporary work around for the tach, would be to plug your information into the Grimmjeeper gear calculator and go off vehicle speed to get a good estimate of engine speed.

______________________________

'85 300D ~ 381,XXX miles, HD Bilstein shocks, 27.50x8.50x14R General Grabber AT2 tires, 4 E-Code headlight upgrade with 90w/130w bulbs, boost turned up, new timing chain, and injectors. Brought back from the dead and the hell of WVO! SOLD
'85 CJ7 ~ OM617 swap, Taurus electric fan, T5 trans, Dana 300, 4.88 R&P, Mile Marker locking hubs, ALDA removed, MKII hybrid boost controller, Greazzer's upgraded overflow valve,  AMC 20 rear disk brake conversion, Aussie locked with 33's and 5" Rough Country lift. 
turbojeep
02-17-2016, 01:51 PM #21

A temporary work around for the tach, would be to plug your information into the Grimmjeeper gear calculator and go off vehicle speed to get a good estimate of engine speed.


______________________________

'85 300D ~ 381,XXX miles, HD Bilstein shocks, 27.50x8.50x14R General Grabber AT2 tires, 4 E-Code headlight upgrade with 90w/130w bulbs, boost turned up, new timing chain, and injectors. Brought back from the dead and the hell of WVO! SOLD
'85 CJ7 ~ OM617 swap, Taurus electric fan, T5 trans, Dana 300, 4.88 R&P, Mile Marker locking hubs, ALDA removed, MKII hybrid boost controller, Greazzer's upgraded overflow valve,  AMC 20 rear disk brake conversion, Aussie locked with 33's and 5" Rough Country lift. 

 
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