Om606 won´t boost enough
Om606 won´t boost enough
I´ve searched this forum now for a while, but can´t get an answer to my problem.
I´ve built a Om606.962 with 8mm Dieselmeken Pump (80 LF4) (thx Göran!) and a Precision 6266 (AR 1.0).
Built the manifold and exhaust myself, its 4" and the Tial 50mm WG vents to atmosphere.
The pump is set correct and the car starts normal and has good idle. Wastegate springs are 3 in, should be 1.5 bar.
It also drives good and does come good on boost, but the problem I have that I don´t get enough boost. "Just" 1.15bar peak.
So my question is, what can it be?
thanks in advance
Hello guys.
I´ve searched this forum now for a while, but can´t get an answer to my problem.
I´ve built a Om606.962 with 8mm Dieselmeken Pump (80 LF4) (thx Göran!) and a Precision 6266 (AR 1.0).
Built the manifold and exhaust myself, its 4" and the Tial 50mm WG vents to atmosphere.
The pump is set correct and the car starts normal and has good idle. Wastegate springs are 3 in, should be 1.5 bar.
It also drives good and does come good on boost, but the problem I have that I don´t get enough boost. "Just" 1.15bar peak.
So my question is, what can it be?
thanks in advance
89 Mercedes 190E Artic White OM604STD Project
05 BMW X3 2.0D Sport
86 Mercedes 230E
14 Sea-doo GTR 215
11 Polaris 800 Rmk Assault
BoostedBenz
09-13-2016, 05:29 AM #2leaks ?
89 Mercedes 190E Artic White OM604STD Project
05 BMW X3 2.0D Sport
86 Mercedes 230E
14 Sea-doo GTR 215
11 Polaris 800 Rmk Assault
Leaks can have a catastrophic effect on the boost building , but i belive your problema is another one....
I´m not a turbo expert, but i have seen situations like yours many often , and what i´ve seen was related to the A/R beeing to high, then the engine can´t generate enough gas to spool that thing, this being said many in this forum will say i´m going insane , but they use those turbos in supras and that stuff, engines that displace the same size and can rev at 10k , and most of all they start to do some HP after 5,6 k .
try to change your turbine housing by something in the .80 A/R and it will spool.
regards
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
Hy,
Leaks can have a catastrophic effect on the boost building , but i belive your problema is another one....
I´m not a turbo expert, but i have seen situations like yours many often , and what i´ve seen was related to the A/R beeing to high, then the engine can´t generate enough gas to spool that thing, this being said many in this forum will say i´m going insane , but they use those turbos in supras and that stuff, engines that displace the same size and can rev at 10k , and most of all they start to do some HP after 5,6 k .
try to change your turbine housing by something in the .80 A/R and it will spool.
regards
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
maxypriest
09-13-2016, 09:51 AM #8...also check for smoke, if it runs clean then its likely that not enough fuel getting through, lots of smoke then you can count starvation out and start looking at leaks and AR
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
Now I use 0.84 ar and boost starts building at 2.3krpm and I have "full" boost at 3-3.5krpm
Also Meken 8mm and 4" exhaust and homemade manifold.
------------------------------------------------
Cars currently owned:
1993 Mercedes Benz 300TDT W124
1992 Mercedes Benz 500E W124
I used to have an 1.18 AR housing on my GT40 and it wouldn't boost beyond 2.2bars until I reached 5krpm.
Now I use 0.84 ar and boost starts building at 2.3krpm and I have "full" boost at 3-3.5krpm
Also Meken 8mm and 4" exhaust and homemade manifold.
------------------------------------------------
Cars currently owned:
1993 Mercedes Benz 300TDT W124
1992 Mercedes Benz 500E W124
(09-13-2016, 04:25 PM)e300d I was also my thought, that the engine may starve....it feels like it. But I thought the pump is preset and doesn't need adjustment?!
When on boost there is no black smoke, just before boost
Turn it up a bit then take out for a run. Make notes for comparison.
Then repeat.
Good luck!
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
maxypriest
09-13-2016, 04:29 PM #11(09-13-2016, 04:25 PM)e300d I was also my thought, that the engine may starve....it feels like it. But I thought the pump is preset and doesn't need adjustment?!
When on boost there is no black smoke, just before boost
Turn it up a bit then take out for a run. Make notes for comparison.
Then repeat.
Good luck!
W124 om606 HX40 finished and it's a beauty 450bhp/456ft-lbs
Lets see... No leaks in the exaust manifold, no restrictions, no leaks in cold side, no special restrictions, engine operates well no nailing noises, timming expected to be in right place, black smoke without boost, when boost comes smoke clears ....
Strange.... and sad...
whats the possibility of trying a .80 A/r turbine housing? or smaller? just out of curiosity
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
162 lts/hr is more or less what a 150cc pump puts out in 1hr at 6k , to me a 170lts/hr seems quite conservative, but your problem is not there....
Lets see... No leaks in the exaust manifold, no restrictions, no leaks in cold side, no special restrictions, engine operates well no nailing noises, timming expected to be in right place, black smoke without boost, when boost comes smoke clears ....
Strange.... and sad...
whats the possibility of trying a .80 A/r turbine housing? or smaller? just out of curiosity
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
We adjusted the pump with the original Mercedes Benz Tool, stuff LEDs and so. So this should be correct.
I will report afterwards
The best way of time, is the stroboscopic light device, MB tool too, or by drip method, or by listening and watching the engine....
I personally do not belive in the out of time theory , cause it would climb in Boost anyway , it could not be fast and massive but it would climb ....
once i had i leak in mine , wasn´t visible untill 1,5 bar , was a rubber pipe cracked wich was secured by the threads , that thing killed a turbine over time. only seen it cause in my build i have the breathing going in the intake, so i was able to saw oil moisture.
good luck
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
nop , do not agree, the A/B light tool does not define anything , besides setting the engine in condition to operate, cause the mark inside the pump is set by the builder/overhauler and sometimes it may slip 2or 3 or 10 degrees.
The best way of time, is the stroboscopic light device, MB tool too, or by drip method, or by listening and watching the engine....
I personally do not belive in the out of time theory , cause it would climb in Boost anyway , it could not be fast and massive but it would climb ....
once i had i leak in mine , wasn´t visible untill 1,5 bar , was a rubber pipe cracked wich was secured by the threads , that thing killed a turbine over time. only seen it cause in my build i have the breathing going in the intake, so i was able to saw oil moisture.
good luck
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
Did some hours on the car, and noticed that the Tial WG is leaky. So put that off and welded a new plug shut.
So I am running without WG.
Also pressurized the system and found 3 leaks around sensors, now they are sealed. Put 1.5 bar on it.
after all that made a run...and...disappointment: only 1 bar of boost.
What can be the reason? Faulty timing? Valves? Piston rings?
I am out of my mind right now, don't have any clue
So, Updates:
Did some hours on the car, and noticed that the Tial WG is leaky. So put that off and welded a new plug shut.
So I am running without WG.
Also pressurized the system and found 3 leaks around sensors, now they are sealed. Put 1.5 bar on it.
after all that made a run...and...disappointment: only 1 bar of boost.
What can be the reason? Faulty timing? Valves? Piston rings?
I am out of my mind right now, don't have any clue
At about 0.7 bar the black smoke disappears. Boost line goes directly from the compressor housing to the ALDA.
Adjusted the screw in the picture, but was before all the other things I did.
By looking at it, maybe it was the wrong screw?
But talking to Göran, the pump is set to handle boost to about 2.2 bar...so why mess with it?
Don't have a fuel pressure gauge yet, but there is a lot of pressure at the injectors. "Nails/ticks/tacks" whatever you call it, kinda loud.
Hi.
At about 0.7 bar the black smoke disappears. Boost line goes directly from the compressor housing to the ALDA.
Adjusted the screw in the picture, but was before all the other things I did.
By looking at it, maybe it was the wrong screw?
But talking to Göran, the pump is set to handle boost to about 2.2 bar...so why mess with it?
Don't have a fuel pressure gauge yet, but there is a lot of pressure at the injectors. "Nails/ticks/tacks" whatever you call it, kinda loud.
My bet your problem is the turbine housing being too big 99% sure ....
But fuel the engine in the 5k and above should produce enough gas for that housing, but in this case the Pump may have a flaw, normal Governors start to cut fuel as part of the max RPM feature at 5.5 K , but if u have a Dieselmeken Pump it should be higher , ask him wich value it is( when i tweek pumps i leave starting cut off at 6K never below)
In this case the outside ALDA device only allow MAX rack travel when submitted to 2 BAR. Since it is only seeing 1.3 as u say it will not release the max rack travel, consequently it is not delivering all the fuel it can.(sugest deactivation of ALDA for trials)
The other flaw is the feeding, for the pump to be able to pump its max , it needs about 150lts /hr of fuel at a press of 1.5 bar in the main gallery, like it or not thats the way things operate, if any of this condition aplies its may well be lack of fueling....
If u had a turbine housing in the .80 A/R it would operate with less gas, most probably would build boost sooner and higher and the alda would be suplied at its max alowing the max fueling sooner.... masking the feeding and the max rpm flaw´s
try to deactivate the ALDA for a trial and report back.... increasing the Max rpm is easy .
regards
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
Hy there ,
My bet your problem is the turbine housing being too big 99% sure ....
But fuel the engine in the 5k and above should produce enough gas for that housing, but in this case the Pump may have a flaw, normal Governors start to cut fuel as part of the max RPM feature at 5.5 K , but if u have a Dieselmeken Pump it should be higher , ask him wich value it is( when i tweek pumps i leave starting cut off at 6K never below)
In this case the outside ALDA device only allow MAX rack travel when submitted to 2 BAR. Since it is only seeing 1.3 as u say it will not release the max rack travel, consequently it is not delivering all the fuel it can.(sugest deactivation of ALDA for trials)
The other flaw is the feeding, for the pump to be able to pump its max , it needs about 150lts /hr of fuel at a press of 1.5 bar in the main gallery, like it or not thats the way things operate, if any of this condition aplies its may well be lack of fueling....
If u had a turbine housing in the .80 A/R it would operate with less gas, most probably would build boost sooner and higher and the alda would be suplied at its max alowing the max fueling sooner.... masking the feeding and the max rpm flaw´s
try to deactivate the ALDA for a trial and report back.... increasing the Max rpm is easy .
regards
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
Can't think that the 1.0 AR is too big because I have seen many using Holset with 16cm housing so 1.15 AR.
Pump is set to 6000rpm. Boost comes on really good but just won't get more.
Also think its with the fuel. So how do I deactivate the ALDA? Just pull the hose? What happens then? Isn't the pump the runnin with low, NA profile?
Thanks again
Fuel delivery shouldn't be a problem. Runnin external pump with inline fuel filter. Pump flows 170l/h. Fuel lines from pump to pump 8mm and also return line. Deleted the original filter housing.
Can't think that the 1.0 AR is too big because I have seen many using Holset with 16cm housing so 1.15 AR.
Pump is set to 6000rpm. Boost comes on really good but just won't get more.
Also think its with the fuel. So how do I deactivate the ALDA? Just pull the hose? What happens then? Isn't the pump the runnin with low, NA profile?
Thanks again
Or by setting the screw´s , the one which limits rack travel, is at the left side in the picture, screw the bolt head up.
The one in the picture at the right side, head bolt all the way up, but in this one it might not be enough , so remove the actuator, and aplly the procedure for the left side bolt.
Like this the pump will put out whatever the governor was set for its max.
Then if this proves to be the case and not the Housing, i´ll help u to tune the ALDA again, but maintaining the max fueling at 1.5 bar or so.
regards
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
Deactivation of ALDA is done by removing the Actuator and the stuff atached,
Or by setting the screw´s , the one which limits rack travel, is at the left side in the picture, screw the bolt head up.
The one in the picture at the right side, head bolt all the way up, but in this one it might not be enough , so remove the actuator, and aplly the procedure for the left side bolt.
Like this the pump will put out whatever the governor was set for its max.
Then if this proves to be the case and not the Housing, i´ll help u to tune the ALDA again, but maintaining the max fueling at 1.5 bar or so.
regards
FD,
Powered by tractor fuel
(09-22-2016, 08:52 AM)e300d Fuel delivery shouldn't be a problem. Runnin external pump with inline fuel filter. Pump flows 170l/h. Fuel lines from pump to pump 8mm and also return line. Deleted the original filter housing.
Can't think that the 1.0 AR is too big because I have seen many using Holset with 16cm housing so 1.15 AR.
Pump is set to 6000rpm. Boost comes on really good but just won't get more.
Also think its with the fuel. So how do I deactivate the ALDA? Just pull the hose? What happens then? Isn't the pump the runnin with low, NA profile?
Thanks again
Can you post some pictures of your electric pump and filter/return setup?
AlpinaM30B35
09-22-2016, 02:06 PM #25(09-22-2016, 08:52 AM)e300d Fuel delivery shouldn't be a problem. Runnin external pump with inline fuel filter. Pump flows 170l/h. Fuel lines from pump to pump 8mm and also return line. Deleted the original filter housing.
Can't think that the 1.0 AR is too big because I have seen many using Holset with 16cm housing so 1.15 AR.
Pump is set to 6000rpm. Boost comes on really good but just won't get more.
Also think its with the fuel. So how do I deactivate the ALDA? Just pull the hose? What happens then? Isn't the pump the runnin with low, NA profile?
Thanks again
Can you post some pictures of your electric pump and filter/return setup?
If it's not smoking then forget about turbine housing and other stuff, you just don't have enough fuel. Don't remove anything, now turn the other screw up as possible so that stop lever will reach to max fuel screw. Then it's max fuel all the time and should heavily smoke without boost. If everything is working right then actuator should move stop lever up.
Wanted to give some updates.
I am out of clues. None of the problems I´ve solved made any (noticeable) differences at all.
Solved leaks, removed wastegate, adjusting max travel of pumpt (changed about 1cm).
Removed the hose from the ALDA, no changes.
Removed the electric connections from the pump, no changes.
It still feels that the engine does't get enough fuel.
So what else could be the problem?
What does change if I remove the ALDA completely?
so hi again.
Wanted to give some updates.
I am out of clues. None of the problems I´ve solved made any (noticeable) differences at all.
Solved leaks, removed wastegate, adjusting max travel of pumpt (changed about 1cm).
Removed the hose from the ALDA, no changes.
Removed the electric connections from the pump, no changes.
It still feels that the engine does't get enough fuel.
So what else could be the problem?
What does change if I remove the ALDA completely?
Do you have compressed air in your workshop? You can test ALDA when you put pressure to ALDA actuator, it should start lifting on about 0,5bar and should be fully lifted with 1.5-2 bar.
If you removed hose from ALDA and that didn't change anything then it's clear that something is wrong with ALDA or pump itself. Make picture of ALDA, I want to see how these screws look like. When you push lever down then engine is stopping?
Do you have compressed air in your workshop? You can test ALDA when you put pressure to ALDA actuator, it should start lifting on about 0,5bar and should be fully lifted with 1.5-2 bar.
I went to the gas station and tried to put some pressure on the ALDA, but the fitting wasn't that good. Put maybe 0.5 bar on it and it moved a little.
Will adjust the ALDA later and make a test run again.
attached a picture how the pump looked like delivered
thanks for the help.
I went to the gas station and tried to put some pressure on the ALDA, but the fitting wasn't that good. Put maybe 0.5 bar on it and it moved a little.
Will adjust the ALDA later and make a test run again.
attached a picture how the pump looked like delivered
He let his exhaust system be newly built by a " professional" ... a professional who stated that no flex-pipe is necessary, so the exhaust is a rigid 3-meters long 3" pipe.
After 1 hour driving the car lost boost .. I came to have a look...
Because not having the flex pipe, the massive exhaust broke the turbo of his manifold, inclusive the flange.. so after disattachment of the exhaust, which hold the turbo in place, you could move the turbo freely.
Moral of the story: ALWAYS use a flex pipe, which must come as soon as possible after the turbo.. AND not a stupid 5cm long flex-ball, but a real, 15cm long flex pipe.
I have it in my Scirocco .. it already worked for 170kkm ..
Evgeniy1987
09-26-2016, 06:12 AM #30I visited a guy with a W202 OM605 STD .. he also had only 1 bar boost...
He let his exhaust system be newly built by a " professional" ... a professional who stated that no flex-pipe is necessary, so the exhaust is a rigid 3-meters long 3" pipe.
After 1 hour driving the car lost boost .. I came to have a look...
Because not having the flex pipe, the massive exhaust broke the turbo of his manifold, inclusive the flange.. so after disattachment of the exhaust, which hold the turbo in place, you could move the turbo freely.
Moral of the story: ALWAYS use a flex pipe, which must come as soon as possible after the turbo.. AND not a stupid 5cm long flex-ball, but a real, 15cm long flex pipe.
I have it in my Scirocco .. it already worked for 170kkm ..
We adjusted the pump today again, both ALDA and the max fuel screw...about 1 cm.
Result: Nothing changed
Third gear 0.93 bar
Fourth gear 1.05 bar
Car runs good though, mechanically seems everything good.
Also made a little run, maybe you can see or hear something what could be wrong...
We used a flex pipe. Also searched for cracks today: nothing. No black smoke marks or anything.
We adjusted the pump today again, both ALDA and the max fuel screw...about 1 cm.
Result: Nothing changed
Third gear 0.93 bar
Fourth gear 1.05 bar
Car runs good though, mechanically seems everything good.
Also made a little run, maybe you can see or hear something what could be wrong...
Adjusted the screw for the max level all the way to the top and the ALDA also again for about 1cm.
Car runs alot better now, no nailing or else.
Smokes black (before it was more grey) all the way until boost, then no black smoke.
Feels also alot better now.
But still the boost does not rise.
So its still the same problem as before.
just got home from another test.
Adjusted the screw for the max level all the way to the top and the ALDA also again for about 1cm.
Car runs alot better now, no nailing or else.
Smokes black (before it was more grey) all the way until boost, then no black smoke.
Feels also alot better now.
But still the boost does not rise.
So its still the same problem as before.
((CM x 8) - 7) / 100 = a/r ratio
some conversions below.
6 cm2 = 0.41 A/R
7 cm2 = 0.49 A/R
8 cm2 = 0.57 A/R
9 cm2 = 0.65 A/R
10 cm2 = 0.73 A/R
11 cm2 = 0.81 A/R
12 cm2 = 0.89 A/R
14 cm2 = 1.05 A/R
16 cm2 = 1.21 A/R
18 cm2 = 1.37 A/R
21 cm2 = 1.61 A/R
Regarding that my Precision is too big, what sized turbos do you guys run?
just found this conversion online:
((CM x 8) - 7) / 100 = a/r ratio
some conversions below.
6 cm2 = 0.41 A/R
7 cm2 = 0.49 A/R
8 cm2 = 0.57 A/R
9 cm2 = 0.65 A/R
10 cm2 = 0.73 A/R
11 cm2 = 0.81 A/R
12 cm2 = 0.89 A/R
14 cm2 = 1.05 A/R
16 cm2 = 1.21 A/R
18 cm2 = 1.37 A/R
21 cm2 = 1.61 A/R
Regarding that my Precision is too big, what sized turbos do you guys run?
I personally ran about 2.8bars with my Garrett GT40 with 0.84 ar housing. (T4)
But I'll swap my manifold this week and replace both manifold and turbo for hx40 super 16cm2 I hope to see at least 3bar
------------------------------------------------
Cars currently owned:
1993 Mercedes Benz 300TDT W124
1992 Mercedes Benz 500E W124
I know people that runs 3+ with Holset hx40 with 16cm2 housing. (T3)
I personally ran about 2.8bars with my Garrett GT40 with 0.84 ar housing. (T4)
But I'll swap my manifold this week and replace both manifold and turbo for hx40 super 16cm2 I hope to see at least 3bar
------------------------------------------------
Cars currently owned:
1993 Mercedes Benz 300TDT W124
1992 Mercedes Benz 500E W124
(09-27-2016, 12:51 PM)e300d just got home from another test.
Adjusted the screw for the max level all the way to the top and the ALDA also again for about 1cm.
Car runs alot better now, no nailing or else.
Smokes black (before it was more grey) all the way until boost, then no black smoke.
Feels also alot better now.
But still the boost does not rise.
So its still the same problem as before.
You have 220cc pump, it means 700+hp and 4bar boost when max fuel.
(09-27-2016, 12:51 PM)e300d just got home from another test.
Adjusted the screw for the max level all the way to the top and the ALDA also again for about 1cm.
Car runs alot better now, no nailing or else.
Smokes black (before it was more grey) all the way until boost, then no black smoke.
Feels also alot better now.
But still the boost does not rise.
So its still the same problem as before.
You have 220cc pump, it means 700+hp and 4bar boost when max fuel.
Banjo-bolt is new from Mercedes-Benz, but can check it.
One day the leak-off-line was loose and it spread almost 5 liters of diesel in the engine bay. I guess pressure is anough
@ Mackan
So this means my Precision isn't too big. So where is the fault? No cracks in manifold or similar.
Could the compressor housing be leaking? But does it loose 2 bar there?
Can't imagine that.
@erx
So whats your conclusion? Still something not adjusted the right way?
Noticed a little thing yesterday: when the car idles and I stand in front of the engine and give it a little throttle...it "woosch" a little.
But I can't see or feel where.
Suppose somewhere in the valve cover area
@ ecFSE
Banjo-bolt is new from Mercedes-Benz, but can check it.
One day the leak-off-line was loose and it spread almost 5 liters of diesel in the engine bay. I guess pressure is anough
@ Mackan
So this means my Precision isn't too big. So where is the fault? No cracks in manifold or similar.
Could the compressor housing be leaking? But does it loose 2 bar there?
Can't imagine that.
@erx
So whats your conclusion? Still something not adjusted the right way?
Noticed a little thing yesterday: when the car idles and I stand in front of the engine and give it a little throttle...it "woosch" a little.
But I can't see or feel where.
Suppose somewhere in the valve cover area
Dieselmeken label on pump says it was adjusted to 150cc max fuel which should easily make 2bar boost with black smoke. When you push full throttle inside car then pump throttle lever is also on full throttle position?
I have to repeat myself again. If it's not smoking then you don't have enough fuel. Nothing to do with turbo size or leaks. If you can't make sure if your alda is working or not then just remove it so stop lever can rise up all the way. It's very hard to say if it's because of pump, alda or lift pump because you don't know nothing what is happening under the bonnet. What is lift pump pressure before injection pump when smoke goes away and is alda moving fully up when you put pressure to actuator. First make these things clear. You don't need fuel pressure gauge everyday, just connect temporary hose before injection pump and take gauge through window inside the car, then test drive.
Dieselmeken label on pump says it was adjusted to 150cc max fuel which should easily make 2bar boost with black smoke. When you push full throttle inside car then pump throttle lever is also on full throttle position?
the season here in germany comes to an end, and so my project.
We´ve come to the conclusion that the exhaust side of the turbo is just plain too big.
Over wintertime I will change to the 0.84 A/R and will tell if it solved all my problems.
In the end it just can be this.
Thanks for all the help, will keep you updated as soon as we get some results.
c ya
wanted to update
the season here in germany comes to an end, and so my project.
We´ve come to the conclusion that the exhaust side of the turbo is just plain too big.
Over wintertime I will change to the 0.84 A/R and will tell if it solved all my problems.
In the end it just can be this.
Thanks for all the help, will keep you updated as soon as we get some results.
c ya
(09-28-2016, 06:10 AM)erx I have to repeat myself again. If it's not smoking then you don't have enough fuel. Nothing to do with turbo size or leaks. If you can't make sure if your alda is working or not then just remove it so stop lever can rise up all the way. It's very hard to say if it's because of pump, alda or lift pump because you don't know nothing what is happening under the bonnet. What is lift pump pressure before injection pump when smoke goes away and is alda moving fully up when you put pressure to actuator. First make these things clear. You don't need fuel pressure gauge everyday, just connect temporary hose before injection pump and take gauge through window inside the car, then test drive.
Dieselmeken label on pump says it was adjusted to 150cc max fuel which should easily make 2bar boost with black smoke. When you push full throttle inside car then pump throttle lever is also on full throttle position?
This! So much this.
If you're making little boost but don't see any black smoke, you are clearly making enough boost to burn what fuel is being injected.
Baldur Gislason
(09-28-2016, 06:10 AM)erx I have to repeat myself again. If it's not smoking then you don't have enough fuel. Nothing to do with turbo size or leaks. If you can't make sure if your alda is working or not then just remove it so stop lever can rise up all the way. It's very hard to say if it's because of pump, alda or lift pump because you don't know nothing what is happening under the bonnet. What is lift pump pressure before injection pump when smoke goes away and is alda moving fully up when you put pressure to actuator. First make these things clear. You don't need fuel pressure gauge everyday, just connect temporary hose before injection pump and take gauge through window inside the car, then test drive.
Dieselmeken label on pump says it was adjusted to 150cc max fuel which should easily make 2bar boost with black smoke. When you push full throttle inside car then pump throttle lever is also on full throttle position?
This! So much this.
If you're making little boost but don't see any black smoke, you are clearly making enough boost to burn what fuel is being injected.
Baldur Gislason
It produces now a lot of smoke before boost, but nothing changed.
Neither spool up or boost.
Hansebanger77 here in the forum uses a 6766 with 0.84 A/R housing, I have 6266 with divided 1.0 A/R.
Seems there isn't enough exhaust gas flow.
Its also difficult to adjust the ALDA because the manifold is in the way.
Or are there any tricks to disconnect the ALDA?
thanks for your response, but we wound the max stop point all the way up.
It produces now a lot of smoke before boost, but nothing changed.
Neither spool up or boost.
Hansebanger77 here in the forum uses a 6766 with 0.84 A/R housing, I have 6266 with divided 1.0 A/R.
Seems there isn't enough exhaust gas flow.
Its also difficult to adjust the ALDA because the manifold is in the way.
Or are there any tricks to disconnect the ALDA?
To answer any questions about whether the stock lines from the back and the fuel filter will flow enough the answer is yes. I flow tested at pressure from the rear of the vehicle and it is no problem to run more fuel than these will ever burn. The feed line to the fuel pump itself though is very important. If you have not switch to a gasoline feed line from the fuel tank. New sock filter and feed line.
The others are correct if you should be able to turn up that pump to black out the earth.
whipplem104
09-29-2016, 12:58 PM #42You are most likely having a fuel supply problem on the low pressure circuit. You could just measure fuel pressure at the inlet to the pump and see if it drops. How do you have your electric fuel pump configured. What is the feed line from the tank to the pump?
To answer any questions about whether the stock lines from the back and the fuel filter will flow enough the answer is yes. I flow tested at pressure from the rear of the vehicle and it is no problem to run more fuel than these will ever burn. The feed line to the fuel pump itself though is very important. If you have not switch to a gasoline feed line from the fuel tank. New sock filter and feed line.
The others are correct if you should be able to turn up that pump to black out the earth.
i also can say that you have a Fuel problem.
My 605 with hx30 and 7,5LF3 Elements made 2,5 Bar Boost with Stock Liftpump and Stock Banjobolt.
And as much Black Smoke as i wanted ...
No Smoke No Boost.
Wo aus Deutschland komst du her ?
Greets
Max
______________________________________________________________
93´ W124 300TDT -> OM606.962 / RS 203 Dieselmeken 7,5mm 210cc / KKK K14 / Stock Transmission / 2,65 ASD
89´ 190D 2.5 Turbo -> OM605.960 / Dieselmeken 7,5mm 180cc / Holset HX30 Super / 716. 654 6-Speed / 2,87 Rear Axle
Hi,
i also can say that you have a Fuel problem.
My 605 with hx30 and 7,5LF3 Elements made 2,5 Bar Boost with Stock Liftpump and Stock Banjobolt.
And as much Black Smoke as i wanted ...
No Smoke No Boost.
Wo aus Deutschland komst du her ?
Greets
Max
______________________________________________________________
93´ W124 300TDT -> OM606.962 / RS 203 Dieselmeken 7,5mm 210cc / KKK K14 / Stock Transmission / 2,65 ASD
89´ 190D 2.5 Turbo -> OM605.960 / Dieselmeken 7,5mm 180cc / Holset HX30 Super / 716. 654 6-Speed / 2,87 Rear Axle
The pump delivers 3 bar. There is enough pressure, because the leak off line was mounted incorrectly one time and it blew off and about 5 liters of diesel was all over the engine bay.
But will test it with a pressure gauge to make it sure.
@ Max : komm aus Dresden
I´ve got one big electric pump (delivers 170l/h) near the tank, from this pump all the way to the Dieselmeken with 8mm into one banjo bolt.
The pump delivers 3 bar. There is enough pressure, because the leak off line was mounted incorrectly one time and it blew off and about 5 liters of diesel was all over the engine bay.
But will test it with a pressure gauge to make it sure.
@ Max : komm aus Dresden
This is a stock edc pump with remap and stock pump. Car starting 3500 drives like crazy. 260 top speed.
Listem to guys. You have fuel provlem. Not boost. It must be vaccum connector to alda without control vaccum. Alda blocks fuel because does not see boost. Thats why you dont smoke on high revs.
I have 1.9 boost - 27 psi, on stock elemwnts.
1999 S210 Edc pump. 7.5mm dieselmeken element.
HX35W turbo, custom map.
Brakes 330mm 4 piston brembo CL500, bolt on fit. Longer brake lines. 3mm spacers.
260km/h
2.1 boost for now.
16 inch steel wheels with 20mm spacers.
https://youtu.be/4IqtDNLPlm0
This is a stock edc pump with remap and stock pump. Car starting 3500 drives like crazy. 260 top speed.
Listem to guys. You have fuel provlem. Not boost. It must be vaccum connector to alda without control vaccum. Alda blocks fuel because does not see boost. Thats why you dont smoke on high revs.
I have 1.9 boost - 27 psi, on stock elemwnts.
1999 S210 Edc pump. 7.5mm dieselmeken element.
HX35W turbo, custom map.
Brakes 330mm 4 piston brembo CL500, bolt on fit. Longer brake lines. 3mm spacers.
260km/h
2.1 boost for now.
16 inch steel wheels with 20mm spacers.
All good on low-medium rpm
Gwagen 460, om606.962. 722.6 Ole Fejer controller++
Gwagen 463, shitty 603,,,,at the moment,,,
Gwagen 463, 270cdi
Im a amateur compared to all the people above but on my car the filter in the fueltank caused a starvation on fuel and then shitty perfirmance.
All good on low-medium rpm
Gwagen 460, om606.962. 722.6 Ole Fejer controller++
Gwagen 463, shitty 603,,,,at the moment,,,
Gwagen 463, 270cdi
8mm pump - 220CC
HX40W
Injectors with 150psi popping pressure
Boosting now at 1.1 bar.
I have eliminated low fuel pressure and boost leak. I'm thinking timing may be an issue.
hummermaniac88
02-23-2017, 11:24 PM #50Don't mean to thread jack, but I literally have the same setup as the OP.
8mm pump - 220CC
HX40W
Injectors with 150psi popping pressure
Boosting now at 1.1 bar.
I have eliminated low fuel pressure and boost leak. I'm thinking timing may be an issue.
1 Guest(s)
1 Guest(s)