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patracy

Naturally-aspirated

22

07-16-2008, 04:55 PM #1

I used a Mallory 4060FI fuel pump for the WVO setup. You can get away with a typical vane style pump for diesel. But WVO is to viscus for a vane pump. The oil will cause the vanes to "stick" in place and stop pumping. The Mallory fuel pumps are a gearotor style pump. So they use a gear to pump.

I used a series of fittings to step it up to 1" NPT into a goldenrod filter. The goldenrod filter is nice since it's clear. I can check on the filter media. One of the worries with WVO is polymerization. A traditional screw on cannister filter wouldn't allow you to see this in that event. Next I stepped it down to a tee with a adjustable pressure regulator. This bleeds off excess pressure back to the tank.

[Image: IMAGE_267.jpg]

From that point the output from the pump/filter/regulator/tank is fed into my hose in hose setup.

[Image: IMAGE_268.jpg]

The hose in hose is a 1" ID hose with 1/2" aluminum fuel line inside. I drilled out the center of the 1/2" compression fittings to seal them off. There are tees at both ends to allow coolant to pass through. This allows heat transfer. The key to WVO setups. The total length of the hose in hose is about 15ft. So the fuel is heated plenty by the time it reaches the engine. Here's the end that meets the engine.

[Image: IMAGE_255.jpg]

I fastened the hose in hose along the frame rail. Also I used a 5/8" heater hose for the return.

[Image: IMAGE_258.jpg]

I tapped off the head for the heat supply. I used a ball valves to adjust flow. It's also a good idea to valve off the coolant flow in and out in the event you have a leak.

[Image: IMAGE_256.jpg]

The return line is tied back into the heater core return.

[Image: IMAGE_257.jpg]

Here's a pic of everything plumbed as well.
[Image: IMAGE_270.jpg]

On to the engine itself. I used a pair of 1/2" check valves. Most people use expensive valves. But in my opinion that's a more expensive means to do so. And leads to failures.

I used a 4 way fitting to allow for a port for my fuel pressure gauge and my warning light as well.
[Image: IMAGE_271.jpg]

While I was working on all of this I upgraded my diesel fuel system as well. I used 1/2" fuel lines with a 1/2" draw straw. I used AN fittings I picked up from summit racing. I used the 12mmx1.5 to -8AN adapters. And 90def -8AN fittings.
[Image: IMAGE_272.jpg]

The VP44

The new fuel pump for diesel
[Image: IMAGE_276.jpg]

Now for the return. Since the dodge is a return system. You have to have a selector valve for the return.
[Image: IMAGE_274.jpg]

Now about the return valve. Since I've got a dual pump setup with check valves. You have to have a delay to keep the selector valve feeding back to the WVO tank for purging. Otherwise you'll pump the WVO from the IP, injectors, and lines back into your diesel tank. I built a timer based off the 555 chip. Crude looking inside, I know, but it works.

[Image: DSC05042Large.jpg]

Here's a video of the controller in action cycling through sources and a purge cycle.
<a class="postlink" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kD4JqJPHGHg">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kD4JqJPHGHg</a>

Since I don't smoke I used the ash tray for a holder for the controller. Also notice the fuel gauge.
[Image: IMAGE_275.jpg]

All said and done I've got about $500 in my setup. So in about 5 tanks it'll be paid for.

I know WVO is pretty popular for the MB's. My friend who turned me onto WVO has a powerstroke and a 300D on WVO. If I can be of any help, feel free to ask.

patracy

07-16-2008, 04:55 PM #1

I'm certain Winmutt remembers me. I thought I'd sign up for this board since it pertains to a common interest of mine, diesels!

Anyhow, here's my latest diesel tinkerings...

Here's my WVO setup I've constructed for my 1999 Cummins 24V with the VP44. I should state that I'm not going to run this as a 100% WVO setup. I'll be running a percentage of diesel fuel or Kerosene in the tank with the WVO as well to help reduce the coking effect WVO can have. In any case I've constructed my system with K.I.S.S. in mind. Not so much in overall complexity. But in components.

I'll start with the tank first. It's a plastic marine tank. It's 23 gallons. It fit inside my toolbox. I wanted to be able to have everything hidden out of sight. Best of all, it was only $33. I did have to clean a layer of varnish out of it (lacquer thinner works great!) and I had to replace the sending unit. I picked up a sender from the local marina shop. $33 for it.

[Image: IMAGE_266.jpg]

I used a Mallory 4060FI fuel pump for the WVO setup. You can get away with a typical vane style pump for diesel. But WVO is to viscus for a vane pump. The oil will cause the vanes to "stick" in place and stop pumping. The Mallory fuel pumps are a gearotor style pump. So they use a gear to pump.

I used a series of fittings to step it up to 1" NPT into a goldenrod filter. The goldenrod filter is nice since it's clear. I can check on the filter media. One of the worries with WVO is polymerization. A traditional screw on cannister filter wouldn't allow you to see this in that event. Next I stepped it down to a tee with a adjustable pressure regulator. This bleeds off excess pressure back to the tank.

[Image: IMAGE_267.jpg]

From that point the output from the pump/filter/regulator/tank is fed into my hose in hose setup.

[Image: IMAGE_268.jpg]

The hose in hose is a 1" ID hose with 1/2" aluminum fuel line inside. I drilled out the center of the 1/2" compression fittings to seal them off. There are tees at both ends to allow coolant to pass through. This allows heat transfer. The key to WVO setups. The total length of the hose in hose is about 15ft. So the fuel is heated plenty by the time it reaches the engine. Here's the end that meets the engine.

[Image: IMAGE_255.jpg]

I fastened the hose in hose along the frame rail. Also I used a 5/8" heater hose for the return.

[Image: IMAGE_258.jpg]

I tapped off the head for the heat supply. I used a ball valves to adjust flow. It's also a good idea to valve off the coolant flow in and out in the event you have a leak.

[Image: IMAGE_256.jpg]

The return line is tied back into the heater core return.

[Image: IMAGE_257.jpg]

Here's a pic of everything plumbed as well.
[Image: IMAGE_270.jpg]

On to the engine itself. I used a pair of 1/2" check valves. Most people use expensive valves. But in my opinion that's a more expensive means to do so. And leads to failures.

I used a 4 way fitting to allow for a port for my fuel pressure gauge and my warning light as well.
[Image: IMAGE_271.jpg]

While I was working on all of this I upgraded my diesel fuel system as well. I used 1/2" fuel lines with a 1/2" draw straw. I used AN fittings I picked up from summit racing. I used the 12mmx1.5 to -8AN adapters. And 90def -8AN fittings.
[Image: IMAGE_272.jpg]

The VP44
[Image: IMAGE_273.jpg]

The new fuel pump for diesel
[Image: IMAGE_276.jpg]

Now for the return. Since the dodge is a return system. You have to have a selector valve for the return.
[Image: IMAGE_274.jpg]

Now about the return valve. Since I've got a dual pump setup with check valves. You have to have a delay to keep the selector valve feeding back to the WVO tank for purging. Otherwise you'll pump the WVO from the IP, injectors, and lines back into your diesel tank. I built a timer based off the 555 chip. Crude looking inside, I know, but it works.

[Image: DSC05042Large.jpg]

Here's a video of the controller in action cycling through sources and a purge cycle.
<a class="postlink" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kD4JqJPHGHg">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kD4JqJPHGHg</a>

Since I don't smoke I used the ash tray for a holder for the controller. Also notice the fuel gauge.
[Image: IMAGE_275.jpg]

All said and done I've got about $500 in my setup. So in about 5 tanks it'll be paid for.

I know WVO is pretty popular for the MB's. My friend who turned me onto WVO has a powerstroke and a 300D on WVO. If I can be of any help, feel free to ask.

patracy

Naturally-aspirated

22

07-18-2008, 10:59 PM #2

I'm purely on WVO now. Truck is running great. Fuel pressure is rock solid at 22psi. WOT can only pull it down to 19psi. I'm going to pull my timer and do some cleanup on it. I need to install a voltage regulator as the timer sticks at times. I also need to dial in my purge to 2 minutes.

The wife thought the truck smelled better when I parked it in the garage tonight. Big Grin

patracy

07-18-2008, 10:59 PM #2

Just an update. DO NOT USE A GOLDENROD! I thought the head of the filter was aluminum. Turns out, they're zinc! Zinc is terrible when exposed to diesel or WVO. The plating comes off in diesel fuel and passes to the engine. WVO causes polymerization at the head. Allowing the goop to pass on to the engine. In either case, it's not good! So I stopped by tractor supply and bought a cast iron head and a better filter. I noticed a few of the zinc flakes in the diesel fuel left over in the goldenrod today too. Sad

[Image: 1216439514.jpg]

I'm purely on WVO now. Truck is running great. Fuel pressure is rock solid at 22psi. WOT can only pull it down to 19psi. I'm going to pull my timer and do some cleanup on it. I need to install a voltage regulator as the timer sticks at times. I also need to dial in my purge to 2 minutes.

The wife thought the truck smelled better when I parked it in the garage tonight. Big Grin

patracy

Naturally-aspirated

22

07-21-2008, 07:34 AM #3

Just another update. I've got about 200 miles on the setup so far. I noticed yesterday driving home the EGT's are little higher on WVO. I attribute this to the lower cetane WVO has compared to diesel. So I've added a 8oz of Power Service Diesel Kleen + cetane boost. Seems to have a lot more power on WVO now, and EGT's were a little lower this morning. Hopefully I'll get a better idea this afternoon since air temps will be higher.

Here's a pic of the stuff.
[Image: MH717504.jpg]

patracy

07-21-2008, 07:34 AM #3

patracy

Naturally-aspirated

22

07-21-2008, 07:17 PM #4

Diesel kleen made a difference. Lower EGT's, and almost no low speed bucking. I assume it'll help with coking as well.

patracy

07-21-2008, 07:17 PM #4

Diesel kleen made a difference. Lower EGT's, and almost no low speed bucking. I assume it'll help with coking as well.

winmutt

bitbanger

3,468

07-24-2008, 12:15 PM #5

Tracy nice WVO setup. Probably not the lightest conversion but who cares on a truck right? Have you done any power mods?

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42

winmutt

07-24-2008, 12:15 PM #5

Tracy nice WVO setup. Probably not the lightest conversion but who cares on a truck right? Have you done any power mods?

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42

patracy

Naturally-aspirated

22

07-25-2008, 04:54 PM #6

winmutt Tracy nice WVO setup. Probably not the lightest conversion but who cares on a truck right? Have you done any power mods?

Not sure if I follow you on the lightest conversion thing? I'm certain my setup weighs less than my friends. Course they have 100+ gallon tanks. The truck tips the scales at about 7500 lbs fueled and unloaded. :lol:

Power mods? Does a bear $h!t in the woods? :mrgreen:

Turned to full tilt (XZT+ on lv3, Xziliraider on lv3, Propane on) over 425hp right now. I don't keep it turned that high though. I've got a billet converter, input shaft, and valve body to install in the trans next. Along with a billet flywheel and deep pan. I'll probably throw on another trans cooler and a remote filter as well. After that it's getting 100hp injectors, ARP head studs, and a BD exhaust manifold. I'll likely have to step up the turbo as well at that point. I'm already pushing this one close to outside it's map. (Anything over 35psi is hot air on a HX35)

It's still not up to par with what my duramax was with only a edge juice with attitude though.

I've gotta get back to my other two diesel projects. A VW diesel engine in a suzuki samurai and a changfa 10hp diesel engine in a EX250 ninja. :ugeek:

patracy

07-25-2008, 04:54 PM #6

winmutt Tracy nice WVO setup. Probably not the lightest conversion but who cares on a truck right? Have you done any power mods?

winmutt

bitbanger

3,468

07-31-2008, 12:59 AM #7

I was referrring to the cast iron looking fittings. Smile

Honestly thats impressive with those HP numbers. You claim higher EGT and more HP? That is interesting. Normally I would go on about hors shit and shenanigans but I wonder if the lower viscosity means longer injection.

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42

winmutt

07-31-2008, 12:59 AM #7

I was referrring to the cast iron looking fittings. Smile

Honestly thats impressive with those HP numbers. You claim higher EGT and more HP? That is interesting. Normally I would go on about hors shit and shenanigans but I wonder if the lower viscosity means longer injection.

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42

patracy

Naturally-aspirated

22

08-04-2008, 09:41 AM #8

winmutt I wonder if the lower viscosity means longer injection.

Well it appears to be catching indigestion on the WVO. I'm getting timing error codes. So I've been running on diesel now. I learned from Bosch that the VP44 requires 10psi of fuel pressure at all times. No problem, I can ram 30psi if I wanted to. The problem is with fuel temp. It can only withstand fuel temps of 150F for brief periods of time. So the engine temp fuel isn't happy. I'm going to shut off the coolant lines and run it as a "cold" line for now. I'm going to use the second tank for a blend of Veggie oil +7.5%kerosene + 5% unleaded gas and PS Diesel Kleen.

patracy

08-04-2008, 09:41 AM #8

winmutt I wonder if the lower viscosity means longer injection.

GREASY_BEAST

Holset

411

11-04-2008, 08:36 PM #9

Wonder if you can fool it into thinking its at a decent temp with some computer wizardry... or the right resistor somewhere... Or maybe its time for a P-Pump?

GREASY_BEAST

11-04-2008, 08:36 PM #9

Wonder if you can fool it into thinking its at a decent temp with some computer wizardry... or the right resistor somewhere... Or maybe its time for a P-Pump?

patracy

Naturally-aspirated

22

11-04-2008, 09:39 PM #10

GREASY_BEAST Wonder if you can fool it into thinking its at a decent temp with some computer wizardry... or the right resistor somewhere... Or maybe its time for a P-Pump?

Nope, nope, and nope.

patracy

11-04-2008, 09:39 PM #10

GREASY_BEAST Wonder if you can fool it into thinking its at a decent temp with some computer wizardry... or the right resistor somewhere... Or maybe its time for a P-Pump?

Nope, nope, and nope.

willbhere4u

Six in a row make her go!

2,507

08-13-2009, 09:09 PM #11

The VP44 uses the fuel to cool the internals of the pump/electronics! The P pumps can take it a lot better but you need custom made injector lines 4 the 24 valve there expensive $

This post was last modified: 08-14-2009, 12:43 PM by willbhere4u.

1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running

willbhere4u

08-13-2009, 09:09 PM #11

The VP44 uses the fuel to cool the internals of the pump/electronics! The P pumps can take it a lot better but you need custom made injector lines 4 the 24 valve there expensive $

1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running

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