So I've just (finally) created a user name and got signed up and thought I'd share what I've been bombin around in. This is my 82 300SD, aka The Flyin Pumpkin. I got this car in June 2008 from Austin, TX. Took two tries to drive it home (Bonney Lake, WA) from TX but thats fodder for a different thread. It had 185k on it when I got it, with 60k on rebuilt trans & cyl head. She's almost to 229k now and running strong. I cut the front springs 2 coils and the rears a coil and a half shortly after getting it. It was sitting in typical W126 fashion with the nose way up. The wheels are "Rage" brand 16x7 with unknown ET; they really have no markings. Front tires are Dunlop Signature 205/55r16, rears are Yoko somethin 225/65R16. The wheels were on the car when I got it a couple years ago. They're still round and hold the tires up so I'm going to stick with'em for a while. I added the taller rear tires for better highway cruising speed and milage. A 22 gallon propane tank (yes, it's effin huge!) was mounted into the trunk last summer. The propane is boost activated at 4psi and is set up on vapor-draw just before the turbo. I dyno'd the car before gauges, but after putting in propane. With the propane, it made 105 rwhp (94 rwhp w/o?) on B20. I'll edit in torque readings & dyno info tomorrow... My normal driving is about 40/60 city and highway; milage went from average of about 22 before propane to average of about 25-26 with propane for the whole tank. Best highway-only milage was 33mpg at steadyish cruising at 70mph. With the tall tires in the rear, 70mph is just under 3k rpm. I drive to Bonneville Salt Flats for Speed Week (coming up on 4th year in a row!) with my Dad, so the tall tires are a must. It's a bit sluggish off the line, but once the propane kicks in it's all good. My brother got me a Monstercraftman PCV kit for Christmas, so that got put on in Jan. Also put in his EGR delete kit as well. I built a 2.5in cold air intake and put that on at the same time. I still need to build a heat shield, but at least the filter gets some cold air being right at the air snorkel. Finally added a boost and EGT gauge to the car. Built a gauge housing for it and got it mounted to the dash. Still pushing stock boost and running stock exhaust for now. Well, I cut out the twin resonators, but otherwise it's stock. My brother and I just put in new Monarch nozzles recently. Seems to be running a bit smoother now. I knew the injectors were replaced along with the cylinder head etc. I just didn't know if they were used, rebuilds, or ???. I've got other bits & fun stuff in the works, but that's about it for now. Sorry for the crappy cellphone pic, I'll see about better pictures this weekend.
Edit: 105 hp and 188 ft-lbs with propane. 94 hp and 173 ft-lbs without propane.

nice ride biohazard! I love that color, you dont see many with that burnt orange color, they seem to all be that awful yellow color. no offense if you have an awful yellow mercedes

Ha! Thanks! So, just so y'all know, c12h23 is my brother. The funny part is, he is well aware that my project car is an "awfull yellow" 240D. I don't mind the shameless plug either way.

I like that color too, it seems that mercedes chose to paint an appalling number of their 80s sedans various shades of bile/vomit/excrement/urine colors. What were they thinking? Its nice to see some attractive original colors. Whats the paint code on the car?

Love to see some pics of this propane system!

(02-18-2010 10:56 AM)dropnosky Wrote:  I like that color too, it seems that mercedes chose to paint an appalling number of their 80s sedans various shades of bile/vomit/excrement/urine colors. What were they thinking? ....

HA!







Nice looking car. I think it would look sharp if you color matched the bottom cladding.



.

Looks nice, I am debating about painting mine - I am in no way a purist, so a satin paint job is on my wish list.

Off topic - I tried to get c12h23 for my license plate, but the Communist State of Kalifornia denied my request.

Thanks! I'm at work now, but I'm going to take pictures of the propane system this weekend and get them posted up. I've thought of doing some kind of painting or something to the lower cladding, but for now it's going to stay as is. I'll get the paint code posted up this weekend also.

I'm working on an awful yellow 77 240D project car. As soon as it's up and running, this one is getting parted out for other parts and projects. The 240 is getting a 617 swapped in hopefully sometime this spring.

That sucks that Kali won't let you have the c12h23 plate! Did they give you a reason?

In the last week or two, I've seen most of the bodily fluid colors that Mercedes came out with I think... my puke orange one, piss yellow ones, a baby crap green one... Good times.

   

   

So here is the picture of the propane tank in the trunk. Takes up a bit of room but not too bad. Also a picture of the air intake and propane regulator. I tried to resize the pictures down to a reasonable size, but I don't have the technology for that. This is the smallest picture size the camera takes.

Quote:That sucks that Kali won't let you have the c12h23 plate! Did they give you a reason?

When I requested the plate I gave the explanation as the chemical formula for diesel, it was initially accepted, but I recieved a letter that it could be deemed offensive. I remember hearing about a guy that had a similar plate, but it was the chemical formula for Meth.

I guess the DMV is too stupid to know chemistry.

I am hoping that Washington will let me get BIOHZRD for my plate when I get the 240 up and running. I'm a ways away from that at this point.
I'm getting ready to install a T3/T4Oe turbo (along with a/w intercooler) similar to what you have. Did you have any issues with the oil feed and drain tubes at the turbo?

were there any downsides to removing the aux water pump? really cleans up the engine bay. I forget the exact reason thats it was installed, was it hot air at idle? how is it in the winter with that pump gone?

Low heat at idle.

Its mainly because of the ACC system's design, my MCC has no problem with idle heat without a pump. I just put a copper elbow in place of it.

Using the 0.9:1 ratio water pump pulley helps as well.

My car didn't have the aux pump when I got it, but my ACC is putting out pretty decent heat at idle once it warms up.

(02-18-2010 10:56 AM)dropnosky Wrote:  I like that color too, it seems that mercedes chose to paint an appalling number of their 80s sedans various shades of bile/vomit/excrement/urine colors. What were they thinking? Its nice to see some attractive original colors. Whats the paint code on the car?

Love to see some pics of this propane system!

So the paint code is 504 'English Red'. I've checked, and it seems that is what they call this orange color. Doesn't seem very "red" to me, but I do like the color!

So I got my intercooler manifold on and water plumbed in.

   

   

   

Here is the heat exchanger. B&M Supercooler, biggest one they have. There is an electric fan pulling air through from the other side of the radiator.

   

And the water pump. Currently a live bait well pump from Frozenboost. I had a MB aux water pump hooked in before, but it crapped out. A new pump is on the list of things to replace...

   

Going up HWY 410 to my house used to make the egt's get to 600-650 (post turbo) pretty quick just going 55mph (the speedlimit). Now, I can bomb up the hill at 60+ and the egt's barely hit 600. Plus, they cool back down much quicker now.
I have to get my oil cooler line replaced at my next oil change this coming up weekend. It's starting to leak. Once I get that and a valve adjustment done, I'll throw it back on the dyno and see what the proof says. It feels quicker through the whole rpm range with the current setup.
Once I have the updated numbers, I'll be swapping on my T3/04E turbo and hitting the dyno again to see what I can get out of the stock inj pump. I have a set of 6.5 elements and my spare inj pump over at Dervtuning. I'm trying to get this all done in time to be able to swap on the upgraded pump and hit the dyno, yet again!

ha ha, love your reservoir!

That water pump is an interesting solution! Whats it rated for? is it designed to operate continually? It may be that its an excellent choice for that application. The work on the manifold is excellent.

The "reservoir", if you're refering to the water bottle stuck in the spring opening is just the overflow. Currently, I haven't got the system hot enough to overflow and there isn't a reservoir in the system just yet. I'm thinking about building one to go under the right front headlight area. I'm going to hold off on that for a bit though, too much other stuff to get done.
Frozenboost.com sells that water pump. It's cheap, but I think it may be flowing too fast at the moment. I'd like to go back to the aux pump and see how it works. The most I got out of the aux pump I had set up was a "errrp" and nothin. The baitwell pump is ok for constant use, but I don't think it's rated to handle coolant mixtures.
A friend of my shop foreman did the manifold welding. I can mig steel, but have not tried aluminum yet. Also, he's a professional welder with access to all the cool toys that I don't have. I am pretty happy with his work. I spent HOURS getting the manifold up to its current shiney condition though. Lots of sanding by hand.

Very nice job! Bravo! Where did you get the piece for the radiator cap?

Thanks!

The radiator cap / remote filler is also from Frozenboost.com, along with the water pump and silicon bits. The machining is a bit off on the remote fill. The cap required "clearancing" on one of the ears to clear the overflow hose. Also, the cap is 'reverse threaded', backwards from the normal lefty-loosey standard cap. Not really anything big, just wierd things I noticed about it. The hose ends are 1/2 NPT, overflow is 1/8 NPT. I just checked their website, 25 bucks. They include the overflow hose end as well as two 3/4 hose ends; all made from aluminum. All the blue/red fittings and the black fittings on the heat exchanger are Summit brand.

I swapped the baitwelll pump for an aux water pump a couple days ago and it's working much better. I was correct in my suspicions of it pumping too fast. The EGT's don't climb nearly as fast now, and are actually a bit lower on cruise as well. I wasn't in the car when it was being dynod this morning, but from the angle of the needle, it didn't seem to get over 650-700ish during the runs. I was off to the drivers side, about 4 feet or so away from the car.

(04-16-2010 05:19 PM)Biohazard Wrote:  I swapped the baitwelll pump for an aux water pump a couple days ago and it's working much better. I was correct in my suspicions of it pumping too fast.

Did you actually look at the water flow? It could be that the baitwell pump didn't have as high of a GPM with whatever pressure drop was in the system. ig, the baitwell flows more than the aux water pump at low pressure, and the aux pump does better at "high" pressure.

I sort of looked at water flow, with my radiator funnel in place on the remote fill. It seemed to be moving at a decent clip with the baitwell pump. I hadn't thought to look at it again with the aux pump on. Here is a side-by-side comparisant of the two pumps though. Kind of like looking at a stock K26 vs. a GT37.

   

The baitwell pump package showed some rediculous flow rate of something like 500 gph?!? But, that may have been freeflow. So I'm betting you are correct that it has a much higher flowrate without a pressure drop on the system, and vise versa with the aux pump. Like I had said earlier though, the baitwell pump is not rated for heat and coolant. Nor is it designed to have the correct flow amount through a heat exchanging unit. The aux water pump on the other hand, is designed for all of that.

Just switching pumps has dropped my EGT's by about 50F going up the big hill to my house when holding a steady 55mph. It also is noticably slower in getting to its peak and quicker cooling back down. I'm pretty sure I still need to plump in a reservoir of some type though.

Have you taken apart the bait pump to see what kind of pump it is?

I hadn't, but I did last night. Here is a pic of the baitwell pump and my dead aux water pump side by side. The baitwell pump has 3/4" inlet and outlet, the aux pump has 5/8" inlet/outlet.

   

Interesting, I expected a little more difference between them.

I haven't taken pictures yet, but I got my new turbo installed! It's quite a bit slower to boost, but once it's there it works pretty good! I'm currently only running 10 psi, but there is no smoke at all. Next steps are to up the boost a bit higher and remove the rack limiter. I still need to make some more progress on the project car, but that's still happy and dry in the garage for now. I'll see about pictures this weekend.

(04-16-2010 05:19 PM)Biohazard Wrote:  I swapped the baitwelll pump for an aux water pump a couple days ago and it's working much better. I was correct in my suspicions of it pumping too fast. The EGT's don't climb nearly as fast now, and are actually a bit lower on cruise as well. I wasn't in the car when it was being dynod this morning, but from the angle of the needle, it didn't seem to get over 650-700ish during the runs. I was off to the drivers side, about 4 feet or so away from the car.

Any numbers from this dyno run?

Hey, I've been away for a bit. The last dyno run I posted in the dyno thread was with that setup. It also was with the propane on as well. My EGT gauge is currently hooked up post-turbo, so the readings are going to be a bit lower than pre-turbo. Moving the EGT gauge to pre-turbo is on the list of things to do. Seems that list just keeps growing... LOL

Hey biohazard, sweet ride!

I have been lurking round here for a while now but this is my first post. This is my favorite thread so far. I just bought an '82 300D turbo with no prior diesel knowledge haha but I'd say I'm pretty good now. I have one question for ya: where the hell can i get one of those PCV kits!?! I can't find any info on them anywhere. They flow enough air for all of that blowby? and how much oil do they catch and return to the pan vs. what goes back into the turbo?

Thanks man. Keep up the awesome work!

Thanks Cpt! I got the Monstercraft PCV delete on ebay, same with his egr delete. I'm still getting a bit of oil in the turbo inlet, so it doesn't get all of it. Someone here has a air/oil seperator for an air compressor inline on their setup, seems like that may be a better (and possibly less expensive) way to do it.

Forced Induction has a big air compressor type I believe. Looks like his uses 3/4" lines. IMO the one you have looks better and it appears to drain the oil back into the pan where others don't.

I got rear ended in the Benz this past weekend and insurance has totaled it . But I'm too interested in these cars no to leave. I'm gonna turn that one into a rally car and go buy another.

Sucks about the accident. Rally car sounds like the right thing to do with the car!

I'm either going to run the hose from the intake to atmosphere (to keep oil out of the intake), or run one of those seperators inline for the same reason.

I'm in line for 6.5 elements for my spare MW pump, stay tuned... Pump is with DervTuning as I write this.

Oh, and pictures this weekend, I promise. Work has been too many long hours to play with the car.

Yeah I have an air/oil separator from Jegs but its only 3/8" fittings and doesnt flow enough.

How much does a pump mod cost with DervTuning?

(06-09-2010 10:32 PM)Captain America Wrote:  Yeah I have an air/oil separator from Jegs but its only 3/8" fittings and doesnt flow enough.

How much does a pump mod cost with DervTuning?

Yeah, 3/8 may not be enough flow. I've heard of smaller line like that actually causing more problems.

You need to contact Tomnik and/or Dervtuning for specifics of upgrading elements. It's their deal, as far as I know I'm not to be talking about pricing. Rudolf_Diesel is the first in line with his 7.5mm M pump upgrade. If you haven't already, check his thread for the Skunkwerks project and DervTunings thread on his 7.5 super pump. Rudolf is looking to be having about the most power from a 617 this side of Europe when he's done.

Here is a pic of the new turbo installed. I used a -4AN braided line for the oil feed; the stock line wouldn't clear the intercooler.

   

You can see near the the air filter the hose that is folded over and ziptied. I had more oil in the intake than I was expecting. That hose went to the pcv breather, it's now just vented to atmosphere. Proper fix to follow.

Your intercooler is super clean looking! I am on the fence about doing air to air, or air to water.... Where did you get your intercooler? and are you using the stock intake manifold or something different?

---

Oh, another thing. If you've got the -4 on the turbo side of the oil line, what do you have on the motor side?

(06-14-2010 11:21 AM)Biohazard Wrote:  Here is a pic of the new turbo installed. I used a -4AN braided line for the oil feed; the stock line wouldn't clear the intercooler.



You can see near the the air filter the hose that is folded over and ziptied. I had more oil in the intake than I was expecting. That hose went to the pcv breather, it's now just vented to atmosphere. Proper fix to follow.

Hows accel / turbo lag?

The oil drain line was done the same as this thread:

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/show...t=T3+TURBO

Drilling the pan was a bit of work, but it's doable. The hard part was finding the huge drill bit needed.

The intake manifold is the stock turbo manifold that had a water/air intercooler welded in. I got the intercooler from Froozenboost.com, but you can get them online, or various places.

The lag with the T3/T4 is considerably more than the stock K26. Just cruising down the road at highway speeds, it's barely making boost (2-3psi) where the K26 would be about 4-5psi. I'm hoping the new 6.5mm elements that DervTuning is putting in will speed up the spooling and help with more boost. I don't have a boost controller; currently hitting about 10psi on full throttle with some fluctuation at higher rpm (needs that boost controler). If I wasn't upgrading the elements, I would stick with the stock K26 (or Garrett/Air Research) turbo. It's much smoother with the stock turbo and stock injection pump. Once my pump is done I'll be updating drivability, power, milage, etc.

Sorry, I should clarify my question: I mean what have you done for the oil feed line to the turbo where it attaches to the oil filter housing? Its a banjo fitting back there right? Its kinda hard to see from the top of the motor. My hard line cracked right were it bends to bolt to the turbo, I pumped the whole crankcase out on the ground within a couple seconds. that's why I had it rebuilt with a 60 trim wheel in the compressor housing. I have it rigged right now but I want to use a -4 AN from the motor to the turbo since the new cartridge I got is threaded. I just don't know what type of fitting is needed to adapt the -4 to the motor...

When I did my 240d turbo I got a turbo oil filter housing and used a special an fitting that bolted right in

The parker store has a banjo bolt with a push-lok hose barb that will bolt on as well.

willbehere4u, that's exactly what I'm looking for!!!!!!!!!!

What threads are on the oil filter housing side? I'm thinking it is a M10x1.5 but that's my best guess without taking apart my daily driver and checking for sure. I am also assuming that's an o-ring fitting since is a straight thread right?

Forced, whats the Parker store?

I missunderstood your question. At the oil filter housing, I used a -4AN to 14 x 1.5 banjo bolt. It's not an o-ring fitting, it uses sealing washers.

Whooooooo I found one!

I cant remember the thread pitch but I was able to reuse the crush washer from the banjo bolt and something on the threads to seal it up? It's still working perfect

Been pretty busy with work, but have some progress made on the Pumpkin. I swapped in a 2.65 limited slip rear diff from a W116 450 SEL 6.9 last weekend. It's doing great so far, I'm looking forward to seeing how it does on the trip to Bonneville Speedweek.

I also had a non-egr exhaust manifold. Did a light port-match on it and also drilled/tapped it for my egt gauge. It was in the down pipe, but now it in the manifold like it should be. The manifold had some rust, so I got it sand blasted inside and out.

   

Couldn't just leave the manifold bare cast iron, so VHT paint it is...

   

Figured I may as well make it look good and match the car.

   

You have no idea how effing frustrating it is to mount a freshly painted manifold without getting diesel oil/grease all over it....

   

Got it all buttoned up and followed the warmup/cooldown like it says on the can. It's high temp paint, but not like JetHot or ceramic coatings where it's designed to keep in the heat. I'll see how it holds up.

I haven't hit the dyno since putting in the bigger turbo because there is some compressor surge over 3k rpm. Stupid cylinder head doesn't flow enough air. I have a fix for that in the wings. My spare head has been ported out, had a cam reground for more duration, thicker headgasket to drop compression slightly (about 18:1); just need new pre-chambers. I also have a set of Monnark 314 nozzles to go in. The nozzles, upgraded exhaust, and electric radiator fan are all next up on the list of things to do soon. I'm holding off on the cyl head till I get the 6.5mm pump back from DervTuning.

How much work was involved in the port matching? Were they that far off?

I had an old race guy do the cylinder head. He didn't go crazy on it and hog it way out. The intakes got opened up more than the exhaust. I only had to remove a little bit of material in the exh manifold to get it to match, a couple hours worth of work I think?

So either I did it wrong or I missed some residue on the manifold when I painted it. After driving it around, there are a couple spots that have turned yellowish. Meh, fits the name at least. Yellowish, orangish, looks like a Biohazardous waste. I'll see about getting a pic in a day or two, I want to see if it changes color more.

Looks like theres plenty of PNW guys...

Yes there are. Me, Bio Hazard, Garage, Rudolf Diesel, You... off the top of my head