(08-07-2013, 11:06 PM)lgreeley83 Knowing well the back bolt on the IP was going to be a bastard I began that today with mentality that soon the pump comes off. That bolt sucks. I broke it loose but will try a ratcheting wrench.

I've got
M fuel lines
M throttle linkage
IP gasket
Oil line block off bolt
IP wrench
Spined socket for dv removal
Drip tool
27mm for crankshaft turning
17mm crowfoot

I think I'm ready?
26 BTDC lobes up!

(08-08-2013, 12:48 PM)Simpler=Better Roll cage and 6pt harness installed?

(08-12-2013, 10:39 PM)lgreeley83 Likely solution for rust...
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/339008-w123-240d-emergency-left-rear-floor-repair.html

(08-13-2013, 07:55 AM)Simpler=Better Buy an indicator from HF and a stand, then stick a drill bit or other thing in the end to extend it. A 1" throw won't reach valve spring retaining plate thingy. Remove valve last, and rotate until you're up 2mm. read the timing on the engine. Bam. done.

[undefined=undefined]Your fuel filter can move to the bracket holes, that's how mine is setup. You will need new clear lines though (tygon/fuel-rated nylon/etc.)[/undefined]

(08-13-2013, 08:06 AM)Simpler=Better It's all in my build thread, I was also playing with putting an AC compressor where the PS was. Read my damn build thread it's full of nifty tricks!

I added the photos to my first post

I have the vac pump removed on my engine, but I imagine the bracket can be relocated. The dipstick and fuel filter don't have the perfect spacing by accident

(08-13-2013, 08:50 AM)lgreeley83 Question: those clear fuel lines, how important is it to use that clear plastic stuff?

(08-13-2013, 09:06 AM)Simpler=Better [undefined=undefined]So no one is going to comment on the vice grip indicator holder? Alrighty....[/undefined]

The clear lines make it really easy to find air leaks in your fuel system, but they're not required.

Can you get a video with the Dieselmenken pump? Have the missus hold it out the window while you light the tires up

(08-18-2013, 10:50 AM)Simpler=Better IIRC you can wiggle it out after loosening the center thingy. Don't hold me to that though

(08-20-2013, 11:56 AM)Simpler=Better And here's some rust and here's some rust and here's some rust :p

(08-20-2013, 11:56 AM)Simpler=Better That's a loud idle clack clack you've got going

(08-20-2013, 02:35 PM)DeliveryValve That's not too loud. I've heard much louder with 7.5mm M-pump.

Great job though, well have to get you parts to fix that manual shut off valve.

(08-20-2013, 03:40 PM)lgreeley83 That's what I was thinking too. I got a look with the cluster out I just gotta get something to fit in there.

Whad ya think of the rust? I know not the greatest shot. I'll probably do the riveting. Clean it up real good and do all the proper prep. Por 15 like crazy. The body is pretty beat. I just need it to last another couple years until I get I house/ garage, than this will be a parts car. Eventually get a dry body from the south and swap all the goodies into it.

The pans are ugly but it seems only around the rear bolts of the front seats that effect safety. Am I wrong?

(08-13-2013, 06:36 AM)JB3

(08-12-2013, 10:39 PM)lgreeley83 Likely solution for rust...
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/339008-w123-240d-emergency-left-rear-floor-repair.html

Oh man! Don't do that, pop riveting too thin sheet metal over rust is the surest way to continue the problem. What he did there is like taping a sheet of notebook paper over a cracked wall. You don't want to play that game, especially near the rear seat mounts. The body of the car will continue to fail under the "patch", and the only thing you will have done is forget about the problem thinking you dealt wth it.

Post some pics of what you are dealing with. The only way that is permanent is to cut out all the rust, prepare the surrounding steel with a wire wheel, and then weld in fresh material. The steel in the mb is like 18-22 gauge. I'm searching around for some good pics on the interwebs. I know I have some scary pics of a pop rivet repair like that a year later that you want to see, searching now. Also buying the correct material is pretty cheap all said and done. Like 20-30 bucks will get you a good section of 18 gauge steel.

I wish you were closer, you could come use my welder. Any forum members nearby?

---

here are some pictures for you to contemplate on the pop rivet repair idea-

pic 1. Everything looks fine, this car is totally safe and rust repair has been done says seller.



whoops, I pushed on the seat. Crunch, it popped out of the floor-



well Gee, that doesn't seem right, lets pull that pop riveted patch off and see whats up-



True extent of the hole-

(08-20-2013, 08:10 PM)Austincarnut Hell, I have an entire solid 300d for cheap, things don't rust like that here...

(08-20-2013, 08:30 PM)lgreeley83

(08-20-2013, 08:10 PM)Austincarnut Hell, I have an entire solid 300d for cheap, things don't rust like that here...

I'd move away from this horrible place called the rust belt but family is all here. It hurts to drive in the winter knowing what is happening to a car. In fact bringing a rust free classic here should probably be outlawed.

I'd buy your 300d but no room in life yet. School done in 8 months than time to find a job. Maybe get out of the crappy apartment lifestyle set up shop. Maybe a barn with a lift and 10 cars in it. A full machinist shop, welding, tools spread everywhere, giant air compressor.

If my barn was in a cave that would be pretty sweet too.

(08-21-2013, 02:32 PM)JB3 a big aggressive wire wheel on the end of an angle grinder will cut through the undercoating like butter.

You need a mask and protection though, it will throw a lot of hot rubber all over, and some of that will stick to other surfaces. A wire wheel on a drill wont cut it.

I have read of people using a heat gun also, but no personal experience on that

(08-21-2013, 02:41 PM)Simpler=Better

(08-21-2013, 02:32 PM)JB3 a big aggressive wire wheel on the end of an angle grinder will cut through the undercoating like butter.

You need a mask and protection though, it will throw a lot of hot rubber all over, and some of that will stick to other surfaces. A wire wheel on a drill wont cut it.

I have read of people using a heat gun also, but no personal experience on that

liquid nitrogen or Dry ice, then shatter it. The undercoat is asphault based. The physics/ chem department at school will know where to get both cheap

(08-21-2013, 03:00 PM)JB3

(08-21-2013, 02:41 PM)Simpler=Better

(08-21-2013, 02:32 PM)JB3 a big aggressive wire wheel on the end of an angle grinder will cut through the undercoating like butter.

You need a mask and protection though, it will throw a lot of hot rubber all over, and some of that will stick to other surfaces. A wire wheel on a drill wont cut it.

I have read of people using a heat gun also, but no personal experience on that

liquid nitrogen or Dry ice, then shatter it. The undercoat is asphault based. The physics/ chem department at school will know where to get both cheap

The stuff I wheeled off on the outside of my 80 240 seemed like 100% vinyl rubber to me. In places in the wheel well it was over an inch thick!

Id be really surprised if the dry ice actually fractures it, that crap is unbelievably tenacious. The asphalt based insulation on the inside is a lot easier to get off than the outer coating has been my experience. Have you tried this?

We need a video of a dry ice attempt, this could be a useful tool for removing the undercoating materials.