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+--- Thread: New Engine... (/showthread.php?tid=1307)
New Engine... - 300SD81 - 04-25-2010
Just picked up a new engine and transmission..
![[Image: 25854_386407499129_590719129_4044109_5317926_n.jpg]](http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs451.snc3/25854_386407499129_590719129_4044109_5317926_n.jpg)
![[Image: 26805_386437209129_590719129_4045270_6294791_n.jpg]](http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs510.snc3/26805_386437209129_590719129_4045270_6294791_n.jpg)
Wondering what I should do to it while its out.. (other than finally putting the VNT on
) I'm going to take all the accessories and brackets off and throughly clean and paint it. Would there be any benefit changing the rings, crank seals, anything inside, without doing a full rebuild?
RE: New Engine... - JB3 - 04-25-2010
what year engine is that? is it just me, or is that turbo look like its mounted really high on the side of the motor?
RE: New Engine... - 300SD81 - 04-25-2010
(04-25-2010, 06:35 PM)dropnosky what year engine is that? is it just me, or is that turbo look like its mounted really high on the side of the motor?
Its an 85 cali. The exhaust will be the first thing to go.
RE: New Engine... - ForcedInduction - 04-25-2010
The TrapOx is without question the first thing that should go!
RE: New Engine... - winmutt - 04-28-2010
Oil filter housing seal without a doubt. If the rear or front seals leak now is the time to do it. Lower oil pan seal. Turbo drain (but sounds like you'll be doing that anyways). Basically ANY seal that is easy to get to. Thermostat. Waterpump?
The real question is what are you going to do to the pump (want some help and I already have a socket cut for the torque control).
RE: New Engine... - 300SD81 - 04-28-2010
Not sure what I'm going to do to the pump yet, certainly maxing/removing the full load. I'll wait until I have the engine in a car before messing with the torque control. Its going to be in the driveway for at least half the summer until I have everything set up. Things should go quicker with no school (unless my finals screw me and I have to take a summer class to keep HOPE) and no real job.
Is it possible to inspect the bottom end of the engine without having to replace any expensive parts? I want to pull the upper pan just to have a good look at whats in there, but is it possible to check wear and clearances without replacing too much? Never opened one of these up before.
RE: New Engine... - winmutt - 04-28-2010
I am fairly certain you can do so, check the FSM, I don't think any parts other than maybe a seal are needed. Have you done a compression test? I have one you can borrow. In order to do the IP you have to take off the oil filter which you need to do in order to replace that seal. Much easier to do with engine out of car. I would also have the injectors all poptested/cleaned/rebuilt while the are out. Talk to C Sean Wattz (s?) over at PP (or benzworld?)
RE: New Engine... - 300SD81 - 04-28-2010
I have a compression tester, bought it at Harbor Freight for $30 when they were having a sale, but I haven't done a test yet. One of the oil cooler lines got ripped somehow while I was hauling it home, so I need to fix that before trying to crank it. I saw the engine run before getting it and its pretty smooth. The injectors in my current engine were rebuilt a couple months ago so I'm just gonna swap them over. Really need to find myself an engine hoist too, I tied the engine to another car and dragged the trailer out from under it to get it onto those pallets...
RE: New Engine... - winmutt - 04-28-2010
I have an engine stand you can borrow.
RE: New Engine... - DeliveryValve - 05-08-2010
(04-28-2010, 12:56 PM)300SD81 ....
Is it possible to inspect the bottom end of the engine without having to replace any expensive parts? I want to pull the upper pan just to have a good look at whats in there, but is it possible to check wear and clearances without replacing too much? Never opened one of these up before.
It's fairly inexpensive. You'll need a new front seal and rear rope seal (you can possibly get away with using half of it so you won't have to lift the crank out). It will get expensive when you start touching the flywheel. Most likely you'll need new TTY bolts for that, which are not your 4-5 buck variety.
Regarding the '85 Cali upper pan, there is no oil drain for the crank case vent line. If you need it, then you will need to swap in your '82 upper pan.
Also it looks like a motor from a 300d, you'll need to swap out your filter housing to your '82 300SD type for it to work with your oil gauge.
.
(04-25-2010, 06:35 PM)300SD81 ...
Its an 85 cali. The exhaust will be the first thing to go.
I have been toying with a thought of using the Cali exhaust manifold and a connector pipe to put the GT2256v little bit back so I can put a 603 air filter box in front of it. But I am also toying with using the stock Federal manifold or a n/a manifold with the GT2256v and a '85 Cali Air box. Who knows which way I'll go.
.
RE: New Engine... - winmutt - 05-10-2010
TTY bolt? You mean the stretch bolts? Last time I checked it was like $70 for a set.
RE: New Engine... - 300SD81 - 05-12-2010
Any tips on bypassing the oil cooler so I can start this thing? Will the oil thermostat let me start the engine with the oil cooler lines ripped open?
Anyone have an old set they changed out? I only need it for one startup...
RE: New Engine... - Tymbrymi - 05-13-2010
(05-12-2010, 10:15 PM)300SD81 Any tips on bypassing the oil cooler so I can start this thing? Will the oil thermostat let me start the engine with the oil cooler lines ripped open?
Anyone have an old set they changed out? I only need it for one startup...
I just got a big hose from Lowe's, some hose clamps, and rigged it together... not elegant, but gets the job done for testing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwIQ1UIuh6k