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+--- Thread: Adjusting valves - Nut bottoms out (/showthread.php?tid=1947)
Adjusting valves - Nut bottoms out - 300SD81 - 11-07-2010
Is it possible for the valve adjustment nut to bottom out? I'm adjusting my valves and it feels like the top nut has bottomed out against the valve stem. The middle nut is loose, and trying to tighten the top one makes the large nut against the spring turn. Is it time to swap my new engine in soon?
RE: Adjusting valves - Nut bottoms out - Biohazard - 11-07-2010
The rocker will actually have more than 1/8th inch gap if it is all the way down. I ran all of mine down when I was swapping the cylinder head to make it easier to get the rockers in and out. Try holding the large hex spring retainer in place with your hands, or a cresent wrench. Sometimes the lock nut or the top nut get buggered up around the threads from being adjusted so many times.
RE: Adjusting valves - Nut bottoms out - ForcedInduction - 11-08-2010
The collar is not adjustable, its only job is to keep the spring attached to the valve. It spins because the valve rotates as the engines running. Only the top two nuts are adjustable.
Thats why there is a third wrench.
RE: Adjusting valves - Nut bottoms out - winmutt - 11-08-2010
A large wrench placed between the cam towers and the spring valve nut will keep it from turning (much). Those rotocaps should be replaced occasionally...
RE: Adjusting valves - Nut bottoms out - 300SD81 - 11-08-2010
I'll give it another try, but I clamped the large nut with vise grips and it still didn't want to move. Is it 25mm? I need to find something that will fit in there, the one thats stuck is the exhaust valve on cyl #5, too tight to fit my adjustable wrench.
RE: Adjusting valves - Nut bottoms out - 300D50 - 11-08-2010
(11-08-2010, 02:01 PM)300SD81 I clamped the large nut with vise grips and it still didn't want to move.
I cringed...
I'll be doing valves on my 617 soon, so this is all good to know for me.
RE: Adjusting valves - Nut bottoms out - Biohazard - 11-08-2010
(11-08-2010, 02:01 PM)300SD81 I'll give it another try, but I clamped the large nut with vise grips and it still didn't want to move. Is it 25mm? I need to find something that will fit in there, the one thats stuck is the exhaust valve on cyl #5, too tight to fit my adjustable wrench.
The big one isn't supposed to move alot. Like FI said, its the retainer for the spring. The retainer has a tab that fits into a slot in the valve stem that you may or may not be able to see. The whole valve, spring, retainer, lock/top nuts, and rotater are designed to all spin a little during operation to keep from getting uneven wear on the valve and top nut. Now, if you're holding the big one steady, you should be able to move the lock nut. Those back ones are a PITA for sure, but I hope it works out for you.
RE: Adjusting valves - Nut bottoms out - 300SD81 - 11-09-2010
I tried to wedge a piece of metal between the big nut and the cam tower to keep it from turning, but the top nut still does not want to tighten, while the middle one is loose, and I still cannot get enough clearance on the valve. Does anyone have the proper wrench for holding the large nut? I'd be willing to pay shipping both ways and a deposit. I'm using a 3in wrench and the tips of my fingers to turn it, so its possible I'm just not getting enough leverage.
RE: Adjusting valves - Nut bottoms out - winmutt - 11-09-2010
(11-09-2010, 06:18 PM)300SD81 I tried to wedge a piece of metal between the big nut and the cam tower to keep it from turning, but the top nut still does not want to tighten, while the middle one is loose, and I still cannot get enough clearance on the valve. Does anyone have the proper wrench for holding the large nut? I'd be willing to pay shipping both ways and a deposit. I'm using a 3in wrench and the tips of my fingers to turn it, so its possible I'm just not getting enough leverage.
Save yourself the time and hassle and just get new nuts. Chances are they are due anyways..
RE: Adjusting valves - Nut bottoms out - 300SD81 - 11-11-2010
As in pull the timing chain, camshaft, etc? I was hoping to avoid having to do that... I'm going to the UGA/Auburn game this weekend and don't have time to do all that between classes and it gets dark way too early now... Hopefully .32mm cold is good enough on that exhaust valve, don't think it'll cause any problems since it was running ok before the adjustment when it was tighter than that. If something does happen, I'll just have to swap in my spare engine before mounting the VNT and use the current one for test fitting. It only has about 200psi compression on cyl 1 anyways so I'm gonna have to swap it sooner or later
RE: Adjusting valves - Nut bottoms out - winmutt - 11-12-2010
No, you can pull the watchamacallies out and then pull the nut off the top of the valve. if you do this you can do the valve stem seals.