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+--- Thread: Sound deadening. (/showthread.php?tid=2421)
Sound deadening. - winmutt - 03-18-2011
You w123 owners especially may find this stuff useful :
![[Image: 095959062513lg.jpg]](http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/095959/095959062513lg.jpg)
http://www.lowes.com/pd_154017-81326-PS625_0__?newSearch=true&catalogId=10051&productId=1018733&UserSearch=peel+seal&Ntt=peel+seal&N=0&langId=-1&storeId=10151
$15 for 6"x25' roll of what is basically dynomat. I am going to buy a roll just to have around whenever I take off door panels etc.
RE: Sound deadening. - Captain America - 03-18-2011
Baahahah! All the reviews are about car installation, not roofs!
RE: Sound deadening. - winmutt - 03-18-2011
Ya I thought that was pretty funny as well. The w123 is a noise car on the road and the w124 seems to be pretty noisy in the rear. Seems like $100 or so would fix both of my cars.
RE: Sound deadening. - Captain America - 03-18-2011
I thought the w123 was quiet! Guess my other cars are VERY loud haha.
RE: Sound deadening. - Imaginos - 03-18-2011
I was thinking the exact same thing the other day...
Could be tricky if the product you use smells and it gets hot outside.
RE: Sound deadening. - ForcedInduction - 03-19-2011
Peal and seal is only a patch material.
You need actual insulation if you want good results.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_28929-1410-FV516_0__?productId=1081449&Ntt=duct+insulation&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dduct%2Binsulation
![[Image: 077578023335xl.jpg]](http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/077578/077578023335xl.jpg)
Same price as peel and seal. I bought a roll to put in my doors.
RE: Sound deadening. - Spaceraver - 03-19-2011
Winmutt, I had an 1986 250D W124 that I built lots of speakers into for the better sound I could get from it. Stick some of the sound deading in the inside of the doors. Can rattle at high volumes.
Panels in back that rattle are mostly parcel shelf, a bit from the back seat upright panel, the rear quarters and the spare tyre well. Oh, and the trunk lid. That makes noise too.
If you just need to quieten ie. insulate noisewise, make some foam blocks for under the back seat, it's mostly air anyway unless you have convenience modules under the seat and all that. Second option is getting plastic bags and self expanding foam in a can. Works, but under no circumstances allow the foam to touch paint or metal.
RE: Sound deadening. - yankneck696 - 03-19-2011
The peal & seal has a rubberized bitumen type material that deadens rattles & other higher pitch metal sounds. It does so by absorbsion of vibration. Try putting a finger on an operating speaker & see what happens. Same idea. For full silencing, a deadening & insulating aproach is needed. On boats, we use "Soundown" in engine rooms & genset housings. It has a Bitumen type layer, sheet lead, foam & the aluminized facing to reflect heat. Any strategy that works in your application (which vary greatly) is good.
Ed
RE: Sound deadening. - bmwpowere36m3 - 03-20-2011
(03-19-2011, 07:43 AM)yankneck696 The peal & seal has a rubberized bitumen type material that deadens rattles & other higher pitch metal sounds. It does so by absorbsion of vibration. Try putting a finger on an operating speaker & see what happens. Same idea. For full silencing, a deadening & insulating aproach is needed. On boats, we use "Soundown" in engine rooms & genset housings. It has a Bitumen type layer, sheet lead, foam & the aluminized facing to reflect heat. Any strategy that works in your application (which vary greatly) is good.
Ed
Agreed, it depends on what type of noise you're trying to dampen. For large surfaces that are prone to resonate Constrained Layer Dampening, CLD, is the preferred method. CLD, i.e. Dynamat, is very effective when used on ~25% of the panel's surface. More is not necessarily better. To block the transmission of noise through panels Mass Loaded Vinyl, MLV, is the preferred method. MLV needs to be applied to the entire surface of a panel with no gaps that would allow noise to pass through.
On my 300CD I used a combination of CLD and MLV. CLD was used sparingly on large surfaces and MLV was used to fully line the floors, kick panels and back seat area. While road noise has been suppressed, engine noise is still prevalent. Given the high levels of noise generated by the engine and driveline, I don't believe there is a way to fully block noise on our W123's (practically at least).
RE: Sound deadening. - winmutt - 03-21-2011
(03-19-2011, 06:06 AM)ForcedInduction Peal and seal is only a patch material.
You need actual insulation if you want good results.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_28929-1410-FV516_0__?productId=1081449&Ntt=duct+insulation&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dduct%2Binsulation
Same price as peel and seal. I bought a roll to put in my doors.
The tar acts as sound deadening and will change the resonating frequency. MB uses a similar type on the sound tunnels on the turbo 617 cars. Insulation helps as well and as noted both are really needed. I plan on taking out the back seat and applying the stuff liberally on the w124 and see if it helps with the sound noise from the rear.
Anyone else with a W124 have this same problem or is it just me? Its quiet in the front and noise in the rear.
RE: Sound deadening. - winmutt - 03-21-2011
(03-20-2011, 05:58 AM)bmwpowere36m3 On my 300CD I used a combination of CLD and MLV. CLD was used sparingly on large surfaces and MLV was used to fully line the floors, kick panels and back seat area. While road noise has been suppressed, engine noise is still prevalent. Given the high levels of noise generated by the engine and driveline, I don't believe there is a way to fully block noise on our W123's (practically at least).
Did you line the trans tunnel as well? Without an engine capsule I think there is only so much you can do on the w123. Some people have made one for the w123, no links handy for it.
RE: Sound deadening. - Captain America - 03-21-2011
I like to hear whats going on with the car. I don't like it to be too quiet. As long as you can talk to your passengers and listen to the radio if needed, that's good enough
Subduing vibration would be my only goal, as I think these cars are pretty quiet to begin with.
RE: Sound deadening. - bmwpowere36m3 - 03-22-2011
(03-21-2011, 10:32 AM)winmutt Did you line the trans tunnel as well? Without an engine capsule I think there is only so much you can do on the w123. Some people have made one for the w123, no links handy for it.
I lined the trans tunnel fully with CLD (Second Skin Damplifier Lite) and over that MLV from the firewall to the dashboard/center console supports (the round support tubes that run from the dashboard down to the sides of the trans tunnel).
RE: Sound deadening. - ForcedInduction - 03-28-2011
I installed 2 layers of the Frost King insulation to the passenger doors and it made a huge difference in resonation with the shorty exhaust.
(Sorry, no pictures of the insulation itself.)
RE: Sound deadening. - Captain America - 03-28-2011
Oh man, I would flatten that exhaust on something in about three seconds...
RE: Sound deadening. - garage - 03-28-2011
I thought the same thing hahaha
RE: Sound deadening. - ForcedInduction - 03-28-2011
Nah. Its scraped a few high driveway entrances but it doesn't rattle on the body or catch speedbumps. I did weld the coupler rings to the pipe to keep everything in line.
RE: Sound deadening. - Captain America - 03-29-2011
Cool Cool. I'm just saying that since I romp the car off road, I'd probly rip it off haha