+- STD (https://www.superturbodiesel.com/std)
+-- Forum: Other (https://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/forumdisplay.php?fid=19)
+--- Forum: Projects (https://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/forumdisplay.php?fid=14)
+--- Thread: Waz's 1993 300D (/showthread.php?tid=2597)
Waz's 1993 300D - waz - 05-06-2011
Light Blue 1993 300D 2.5L turbo. W124.128 2.5L 602.962
Bought it from a lady at work with a fan clutch that was about to fly off. The dealer gave her an estimate of $1,200 to replace the fan clutch, tensioner, and belt. I told her I'd fix it for her for $200 but, she wanted something new with a warranty so I bought it from her for $1,000.
The fan clutch normally has a sealed bearing with 15 ball bearings in it. This one had 8 balls left when I took it off the car.
A new fan clutch $85, tensioner pulley $18 and the car was back to drivable, almost. There was/is some kind of fault in the egr/waste gate system. I've changed over to a pressure activated waste gate and now it actually has boost. The actuator, a few other parts and shipping came to about $112.
RE: Waz's 1993 300D - JB3 - 05-07-2011
(05-06-2011, 08:26 PM)waz Light Blue 1993 300D 2.5L turbo. W124.128 2.5L 602.962
Bought it from a lady at work with a fan clutch that was about to fly off. The dealer gave her an estimate of $1,200 to replace the fan clutch, tensioner, and belt. I told her I'd fix it for her for $200 but, she wanted something new with a warranty so I bought it from her for $1,000.
Nice! @#$% dealers, 1200 to replace a fan clutch, belt and tensioner?!
Fortunately, you made out well it seems!
RE: Waz's 1993 300D - waz - 05-07-2011
Yeah I did pretty good and I don't feel too bad about getting the car since I did offer to fix it for $1,000 less then the dealers quote.
They also told her $3,000 to even start to look at fixing the AC. I checked the AC and it still had some pressure. A vacuum test at a friends shop didn't show any significant leaks so a quick recharge and that works too. Well, once the tach signal comes up. That's a work in progress along with the cruise control.
The paint is a little ruff but, no rust and the interior is very good. I'm really enjoying the car.
RE: Waz's 1993 300D - waz - 10-13-2011
I guess I could update my progress on this car a bit.
Waste gate actuator. Pressure instead of vacuum. ~$112 with shipping and a couple of other parts.
New bushings and seals for the turbo $117. My '93 has a carbon seal. Almost all post '90 2.5L turbos are dynamic or piston ring seals. Glad I checked first even if it meant I had to pull the turbo apart twice.
New engine rpm sensor $53. This fixed some other stuff like the climate control, trans shifts and down shift, and smoother engine idle. Also wouldn't have needed the waste gate actuator if I found this first. Not complaining and not changing it back.
Cruise control fixed for $0. Re-soldered the amp and it worked great while hanging under the dash for a test drive. Re-installed it into the dash and it quit after one tiny surge to hold speed. Took it back out and re-checked everything and could not find anything. Then I had a thought. Maybe I should open the hood just in case something stupid and obvious happened before wasting too much time trying to figure out what I screwed up. BAM! Of coarse it won't work when the linkage pops off. I figure I wasted about 2 hours before I found that worn out socket on the linkage. Sure glad I opened the hood before I wasted any more time under the dash. I made a small aluminum bracket to trap the socket onto the ball and it's been working great ever since.
And a bunch of normal maintenance stuff. I've put about $500 in parts into the car since I bought it. I have no idea of how many hours I've put into getting this car back in shape.
The only thing I can think of that's not working on the car right now is the power mirror switch. I don't need to adjust the mirror often so it's not a high priority.
Things I want to do.
New rubber brake lines, fluid, and pads. Not desperate but I want those things new.
New trans fluid and filter. It's working pretty good and I want it to stay that way.
Then I can think about performance. Maybe even make it worthy of being here at STD.
Sorry for the long post but, free time doesn't happen as often as I might like.
RE: Waz's 1993 300D - George3soccer - 10-14-2011
Good stuff loved the 602 motor, was allot of fun once under a 5speed. Keep it up.
RE: Waz's 1993 300D - waz - 10-14-2011
Thanks. It's been the most enjoyable car I've had in a long time.
Don't get me wrong the 126 with 603 in my sig. is nice too. It's just not as much fun to toss around in the cornes. It is however, pretty nice on long trips. My brother is driving the 126 most of the time.
RE: Waz's 1993 300D - George3soccer - 10-14-2011
oh trust me, i had 6 w201's up to date. absolutely love the chassis, and my new project with a 603 should be hella fun.
RE: Waz's 1993 300D - waz - 10-24-2011
The transmission filter and fluid change is done. Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. The old fluid didn't seem too bad but, the filter was awfully dark. Much worse then the W126 when that was changed. I haven't noticed much if any difference with the new fluid. Maybe a little less of a delay to engage the first time when cold. That could be mostly the new filter.
Next I need a free day on the weekend for the brakes. I've got all the parts just sitting there waiting. Pads, lines and fluid. Just need more time.
RE: Waz's 1993 300D - waz - 06-18-2013
Been keeping up with the car much better than this thread. Needed new rubber lines at the tank.
Look what else I found.
RE: Waz's 1993 300D - willbhere4u - 06-19-2013
Bet that made a difference!
RE: Waz's 1993 300D - waz - 06-19-2013
Yes it did make a nice difference.
Starts much quicker, just tap the key (after the glow plug light goes out). Was taking 2-3 seconds of cranking. Not enough to make me think about the screen being clogged but, it makes sense now.
Might need to revisit my ALDA adjustment. I removed it and got no smoke. So I put a washer under it and called it good. Now if I rev quickly in neutral, I get black smoke. No smoke if I rev a little slower so I'll wait a couple of tanks before I decide if re-adjusting is required.
I'm running some Diesel Service, Clear Diesel, tank cleaner to see if that helps get rid of the rest of the sludge. While draining the tank the fuel that flowed out was nice and clear. The stuff on the screen, not so much.
Oh, I just had a thought that should have occurred to me when I had the screen out. I need to borrow a bore scope and get a good look in there.