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+--- Thread: flaring problem (/showthread.php?tid=2815)
flaring problem - larsalan - 07-26-2011
So we were road tripping along then blew out a coolant hose running from the head to the heater core.
After replacing it and filling up on water the trans was flaring.
I thought maybe it wasn't getting cool enough on just water. Now have coolant and the temp gauge is back to normal but the trans is still flaring. Looks like the trans fluid is at the right level.
And my bowden cable adjuster is broken.
What should I do?
RE: flaring problem - Hercules - 07-26-2011
(07-26-2011, 07:33 PM)larsalan So we were road tripping along then blew out a coolant hose running from the head to the heater core.
After replacing it and filling up on water the trans was flaring.
I thought maybe it wasn't getting cool enough on just water. Now have coolant and the temp gauge is back to normal but the trans is still flaring. Looks like the trans fluid is at the right level.
And my bowden cable adjuster is broken.
What should I do?
Inexpensive quick way,use hose little larger than inner cable,slit than cut so adj. on cable is 1/2 ball short ,install and lightly tie strap cable. Adj. by cutting hose. OR install new cable,pull pan on trans.
RE: flaring problem - larsalan - 07-26-2011
Yeah, I have thought of that before. I just thought I would mention that's it's broken. But I haven't had to fool with the way it was resting there before. I have had nice firm shifts. Then after I dropped all that coolant the flaring started.
I'm going to try adding a bit of trans fluid tomorrow. Maybe it's low. Leakying and/or burning? I dunno. Nice to have a quart in the trunk anyway.
Since the cable is super loose that should be very firm shifts if I am remembering correctly.
RE: flaring problem - Hercules - 07-27-2011
(07-26-2011, 11:11 PM)larsalan Yeah, I have thought of that before. I just thought I would mention that's it's broken. But I haven't had to fool with the way it was resting there before. I have had nice firm shifts. Then after I dropped all that coolant the flaring started.
I'm going to try adding a bit of trans fluid tomorrow. Maybe it's low. Leakying and/or burning? I dunno. Nice to have a quart in the trunk anyway.
Since the cable is super loose that should be very firm shifts if I am remembering correctly.
Loose cable,early light shift,Tight cable,late firmer shift .
RE: flaring problem - larsalan - 07-27-2011
No way. I could have sworn more slack gave tighter shifts. But if you say so, I'll try and make it tight and get some harder shifting.
Thanks
RE: flaring problem - larsalan - 07-27-2011
Hmm, you're right. I used a bic pen barrel to make some spacers. The first one was probably too long. Shifting very high and hard, kinda fun but not very traffic friendly. I shortened it a bit and now the flaring is back though not as bad as before.
Guess I need to split the difference.
RE: flaring problem - Hercules - 07-27-2011
Get shift timing the way you want,than adj. modulator and vac. system.Than readj.everthing! Remember Mbz wants shifts firm,but not harsh.(banging). Adj.trans. cable to push on ball 1/2 ball short. This is your starting point.Than adj.other controls.
RE: flaring problem - larsalan - 07-27-2011
Also seemed like that accordion rubber thingy and some plastic around the actual metal cable were snagging a bit. I have been working at it. Probably a bit too tight right now, but I kinda like it
RE: flaring problem - larsalan - 07-27-2011
I think what might have happened is that while I was standing in the engine bay fixing that coolant hose I bent the bracket that was holding the cable. Explains why it changed how the shifts are and why that rubber boot was in a position to snag.
I feel it's adjusted better than it was before. Maybe crank that vac modulator a turn. Whenever I have some ramps handy and feel like getting good and mad at that tight space