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+--- Thread: 300 SD race car (/showthread.php?tid=3214)
300 SD race car - disarrae - 01-01-2012
Ok, so here's the deal. . .
We picked up an 82 SD to use as a race car, because our logic skills are that questionable. We are stripping it and trying to give it as much go as possible for under $500.
I'll get some pics posted up soon. But now I need to go freeze my ass off in the shop and help with the transmission flair problem
Oh and you can follow us on Facebook, Dirty Little Freaks Racing.
RE: 300 SD race car - larsalan - 01-01-2012
Tighten up that cable on the valve cover yet? That's supposed to stiffen up the shifts.
RE: 300 SD race car - disarrae - 01-01-2012
Yep, we did. The totally bizarre thing is that we have no vacuum at the VCV and yet the transmission flairs between 3 and 4. I thought no/low vacuum caused hard shifts, not flair. Oh, and the car did come with a spare tranny in the trunk, so something's up.
RE: 300 SD race car - garage - 01-01-2012
If you cant get the slippage under control, you might want to look into post #412 on this thread: http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=858&pid=17491#pid17491
RE: 300 SD race car - disarrae - 01-01-2012
Still sorting the transmission, BUT we did get the rear springs chopped, brake rotor rock guards removed, exhaust removed from mid-clamp back, diff fluid changed. Holy cow do I love th sound of this car without the stupid stock exhaust. I can hear the turbo wheeze, it's pure joy! We do need to run a straight pipe past the driver's compartment according to the rules, so we will. But holy cow this car is awesome!
RE: 300 SD race car - Captain America - 01-02-2012
You dont need the VCV crap on the valve cover. Take that shit off! Thn throw it away!
I liked you guys on Facebook. My Names Cody. You should join the Forum group on the book... https://www.facebook.com/groups/299590496727849/
RE: 300 SD race car - Torkey - 01-02-2012
Isn't the VCV on the injection pump?
RE: 300 SD race car - larsalan - 01-02-2012
Sounds right. He means that 3/2 way switch thingy. But, I'm getting pretty tired so I don't wanna call something by the wrong name.
Has some vacuum stuff connected to it. And it is all extraneous.
RE: 300 SD race car - w123love - 01-03-2012
Yeah EGR crap and Air conditioning stuff on top of the valve cover. Remember to plug what you pulled though, or else that VCV on the IP won’t function and the car won’t stop....
RE: 300 SD race car - vstef_is - 01-03-2012
Gave you guys a like on facebook. Interesting to see how this goes. Whilst IMHO it's a bit sad to see a w126 being dismantled, I'm also very excited and happy since it's going racing, and hence on a diet... So... all the best of luck!
RE: 300 SD race car - Captain America - 01-03-2012
(01-02-2012, 10:57 PM)larsalan Sounds right. He means that 3/2 way switch thingy. But, I'm getting pretty tired so I don't wanna call something by the wrong name.
Has some vacuum stuff connected to it. And it is all extraneous.
He got me haha oops!
Yeah remove the EGR and 3/2 switch, reroute vacuum lines. Only thing needed is vacuum to trans, and fuel shutoff. Everything else (doorlocks, hvac) is a necessity
RE: 300 SD race car - larsalan - 01-03-2012
Did you see how else to adjust the suspension? I am kinda green on this but..
One of my front tires has worn badly on the inside. So I was messing with the camber adjustment over the past few days. Prolly need to adjust all that stuff to deal with changing tire size and chopped springs. Camber adjusted positive or negative, I dunno which way is which. But I mean with the top of the wheels closer to the center of the car. The way that wears the inside of the tire. That yields better control, right? I think the backs can adjust too but they should be pretty well straight up and down.
RE: 300 SD race car - vstef_is - 01-03-2012
(01-03-2012, 08:49 AM)larsalan Did you see how else to adjust the suspension? I am kinda green on this but..
One of my front tires has worn badly on the inside. So I was messing with the camber adjustment over the past few days. Prolly need to adjust all that stuff to deal with changing tire size and chopped springs. Camber adjusted positive or negative, I dunno which way is which. But I mean with the top of the wheels closer to the center of the car. The way that wears the inside of the tire. That yields better control, right? I think the backs can adjust too but they should be pretty well straight up and down.
I'm not sure that a bad camber angle (which wears either the inside or outside of tires) would allow for better control... It means the contact patch of the tire is smaller than its full width - which is less friction, which would be less control...
RE: 300 SD race car - larsalan - 01-03-2012
I am meaning just a little bit, not a bunch. I am of the impression that on hard turning it actually puts better contact to the road. But I am not an expert.
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html
There they have notes about some camber images where I think the caption is misleading but, it is a good read. I certainly feel the way that wears the inner edge more is better control. As I said I could be wrong.
Right of the bat they note a toe-in setup is the better alignment. Maybe that's something I should look at on my car. But it is barely reaching 20f so will prolly just steer through it
"It's interesting to note that a tire develops its maximum cornering force at a small negative camber angle, typically around neg. 1/2 degree"
Not much at all 1/2degree. They are saying that the g force of the turn needs to be compensated for? I dunno
RE: 300 SD race car - Captain America - 01-03-2012
If the top of the tire is closer to the center of the car, that is negative camber. And yes that could provide more traction in a hard corner because the as the tire rolls over (towards the middle of the car) the contact patch would flatten out. Where as with a 0° camber, the tire would roll and only wear the outside shoulder and you would loose traction the harder you cornered.
RE: 300 SD race car - vstef_is - 01-03-2012
I've got 1 degree of camber - but it's positive - and besides just eating my tire on the outside, I see no improvement. Except that I ALWAYS hear tire squeal in multistory car parks, even if I'm doing 5mph.
Half a negative might help, since Merc has the unusual setup in front. And I do fully agree that some toe-in is beneficial. A layman's explanation would be that the wheels tend to 'open' at speed, hence they end up perfectly straight, whereas if you already had toe-out, it would be way too out, and slow you down. Or at least that's my impression.
RE: 300 SD race car - Captain America - 01-03-2012
Yup, the tires are just pushing in the car park and thats a good example of why some toe in is wanted
RE: 300 SD race car - disarrae - 01-03-2012
We're going with a degree negative camber and toe in on the front and toe out on the rear. For the road courses we're running, nothing super twisty but not a stupid oval, it should work. The goal is to have the car have neutral pull on the straights and maximum contact patch on corners. It's a fine balance, too much camber can cause the car to fight itself done the straights and on high speed corners. AutoX, you want lots of camber for lots of slow turn grip. That's my understanding at this point. Oh and wide tires, I want to go 8", but not sure if we can do it without fender flairs.
So someone on here said, 2 coils = 1" drop on the front. We cut 3 with a 1k dieted car and now the oil pan is 4 1/2 inches off the ground!!! WTF happened there?
RE: 300 SD race car - iheartboost - 01-04-2012
why not just run 0 toe? other than that i like everything you listed.
RE: 300 SD race car - Captain America - 01-05-2012
I'd have to measure my clearance, but its not much and I cut two coils off the front of my D. I dunno if SD's are different though with that whacky cradle up front...
RE: 300 SD race car - dieselboy - 01-05-2012
I had up to 3° front camber on my car.
You need to factor in body roll, tire roll etc...
Set the toe around 1/8" in on the front. The more you mess with your toe you will affect turn in bite cahsimg under/ oversteer on it. I have a good artical somewhere about tuning for the track vs street.
RE: 300 SD race car - Captain America - 01-05-2012
Just put that bitch in four wheel drive and call it a day
RE: 300 SD race car - willbhere4u - 01-05-2012
I've got 17x8 Benz rims on my 1987 w126 300sdl they fit just fine but I had to use 3/4 wheel spacers because of the offset on the wheels. My car is not lowered yet!
I had to have the spacers in the rear so it would not rub the inner fender there is no rubbing on the body or wheel well's. It already sits pretty low in the back
I could probably get away with out the spacers up front my only real concern right now is the front fender would need to be rolled if the car was lowered a lot!
RE: 300 SD race car - disarrae - 01-06-2012
Yeah, there's no way that we're fitting 17s under there. Our oil pan is now 4 1/2" off the ground. We have a friend who's car is at about the same, so we're good for the track. And we want smaller wheels for better acceleration out of the corners, but it will limit our top speed a bit. Oh, and the bumpers are totally gone, so no worries there
RE: 300 SD race car - larsalan - 01-06-2012
do you turn up that injection pump? There is your low end. Then get the gears right to get up to your top speed. That 3.07 rear should be good with whatever tire really unless you are wanting to get up over 100mph.
I think a 3.07 with stock tires is spinning out pretty well at 100mph. There is a chart somewhere here re the 4speed gears. Or I'm sure you nerds can figure it out.
RE: 300 SD race car - Captain America - 01-06-2012
ALDA = delete. If you haven't done that already...
RE: 300 SD race car - dieselboy - 01-07-2012
I think my pan is 4.5" from the ground. It was like 2 before I brought it back up a little.
These cars can take a massive tire.
RE: 300 SD race car - disarrae - 01-07-2012
We did delete the ALDA already and the EGR and it's looking like we're going to dump the flaky auto tranny and put in the manual. We haven't turned up the IP yet, but we will. Right now we're trying to chase all the mechanical bits and get the race seat mounted, then really performance tune. Even then, I don't see us reaching much over 100 mph on the tracks we run.
Holy cow 2" off the ground!!! that is low, makes me feel even better about our 4 1/2"!
RE: 300 SD race car - disarrae - 01-16-2012
It has been a busy weekend for Dirty Littel Freaks. Torquey has renicknamed me Torch, since I've spent so many hours with catching things on fire with the welder and cutting things with my oxy/acetylene set up.
We:
Advanced the IP timing
Installed a new center drag link
Cut, welded, patched the rear fire wall
Installed the race seat
Installed the quick release steering wheel
Started to DIY a CAI, but need to chase down one more part
Hopefully we'll get the 4 speed manual installed this week. The trans guy is being a touch flakey . . . . And NO I don't want to do it my self! I'll get pics up soon
RE: 300 SD race car - disarrae - 01-27-2012
Big news, got the Benz home with it's newly installed 4 speed AND custom drive shaft. Good thing the only company capable/willing to do the project is in Portland 5 hours of driving and some major cash got us the goods. An unintended benefit, the old drive shaft was toast, both the center bearing AND u joints were shot. And as a weird Benz quirk, you can't replace those parts, you have to replace the whole thing. So very happy to have a manual . . . kinda thinking I'd like a 5th gear though