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+--- Thread: Vacuum Help... (/showthread.php?tid=4075)
Vacuum Help... - Chuckler3 - 11-08-2012
1982 Mercedes-Benz 300SD
Just purchased this.. I'm having issues with only one of the brakes applying stopping power I believe as well as hard shifts through 2nd and 3rd. I'm cleaning up the engine bay tomorrow morning and have ordered a head gasket as I believe mine is going out/done for since I had a great deal of white smoke coming out the rear on my 160 mile trip home with it. The smoke only really showed its face under moderate to heavy throttle.
Are these two holes supposed to have lines in them?
http://i.imgur.com/gctwA.jpg
I'm guessing a ball bearing in a cut vacuum line is supposed to be replacing a stopper piece?
http://i.imgur.com/vNIhm.jpg
RE: Vacuum Help... - larsalan - 11-08-2012
#1
those two spots are supposed to be unhooked as far as I know. And a lot of us get rid of that silly contraption all together. I think thats a VDC? Or maybe it is some other acronym.
Open it up and you'll see these worn out little plastic tabs that can be described as beaver teeth.
replaceable but that whole thing is useless.
#2
those are fuel lines not vacuum lines. They are like for extra fuel that is in the loop to all the 5 injectors and that ens one is supposed to be capped.
But if they are old ass lines waiting to crack all up and spew diesel all over you better have about 3ft of 1/8in line around to be able to replace all the old junk.
Biggest 2 things to effect shifting
#1
vac line going from the back of the injection pump at the topside of the little white plastic bit (VCV?) to the green plastic bit (dashpot) down to the trans.
Needs to be hooked up right, maybe get us a picture of that section
#2
bowden cable, the cable that's connected to the throttle linkage on top of the valve cover leading down to the passenger side of the trans
Tighter is hard shifts
looser is sloppy flaring shifts
I like it nice and hard (that's what she said)
but really I kinda like would say it is about just a 1/4-1/2 in deflection or looseness if that makes any sense.
and check your fluid level over and over and over
motor and trans warm in N motor running
Prolly change fluid, filter, and gasket
do it for like $40-50
burn the old fluid
RE: Vacuum Help... - Chuckler3 - 11-08-2012
Thanks for the info. If it matters at all my acc. pedal is sticky as well. I'll look into getting pictures of those areas tomorrow.
Is there anything special I need to do in order to be able to remove that useless box (vdc?) on the top of the valve cover?
Just ordered a new head gasket and need to look into which bolts I need to replace the head studs. there seems to be three options on every site i look. 5 of one, 8 of another, and then 9 of a different size than the other two. any info on those?
also ordered a metric butt ton of vacuum lines, now i need to find some fuel lines too (1/8" ID or OD?)
ordered all new filters and fluid. Still need to look up which trans fluid this thing takes.
I'm looking forward to start tearing into it on saturday. Tomorrow is pick'n'pulling interior trim pieces/levers/switches to fix that part up.
RE: Vacuum Help... - larsalan - 11-09-2012
I think it is basically just cut it out of the loop and we are blocking off that egr too.
Just make a steel plate and rtv it to the intake mani so that hot exhaust gas wont come back in
And go ahead and cut that out of the vacuum loop whenever (asap) too.
RE: Vacuum Help... - Simpler=Better - 11-09-2012
Don't fuck with the head gasket unless you have to or you're building it up. It will cost you around $400 to do it right.
Adjust your valves, get your injectors rebuilt, correct your timing chain slack (offset key), time your pump to 26*, adjust/replace your rack damper bolt, make sure your turbo is producing adequate boost. THEN tell me if it smokes at all.
RE: Vacuum Help... - Chuckler3 - 11-09-2012
(11-09-2012, 02:02 PM)Simpler=Better Don't fuck with the head gasket unless you have to or you're building it up. It will cost you around $400 to do it right.
Adjust your valves, get your injectors rebuilt, correct your timing chain slack (offset key), time your pump to 26*, adjust/replace your rack damper bolt, make sure your turbo is producing adequate boost. THEN tell me if it smokes at all.
And roger...
I'll keep the head gasket for later.
RE: Vacuum Help... - Simpler=Better - 11-10-2012
(11-09-2012, 05:38 PM)Chuckler3(11-09-2012, 02:02 PM)Simpler=Better Don't fuck with the head gasket unless you have to or you're building it up. It will cost you around $400 to do it right.
Adjust your valves, get your injectors rebuilt, correct your timing chain slack (offset key), time your pump to 26*, adjust/replace your rack damper bolt, make sure your turbo is producing adequate boost. THEN tell me if it smokes at all.
And roger...
I'll keep the head gasket for later.
Saran wrap it, and put it somewhere dark/dry
RE: Vacuum Help... - Chuckler3 - 11-10-2012
(11-10-2012, 10:05 AM)Simpler=Better(11-09-2012, 05:38 PM)Chuckler3(11-09-2012, 02:02 PM)Simpler=Better Don't fuck with the head gasket unless you have to or you're building it up. It will cost you around $400 to do it right.
Adjust your valves, get your injectors rebuilt, correct your timing chain slack (offset key), time your pump to 26*, adjust/replace your rack damper bolt, make sure your turbo is producing adequate boost. THEN tell me if it smokes at all.
And roger...
I'll keep the head gasket for later.
Saran wrap it, and put it somewhere dark/dry
I'll wrap it up and store it with my brewing supplies. Ordered a brake booster. After getting the car here and messing with it a bit, it's either a bad booster or a vacuum leak leading to the booster that's causing my pedal slack. Thanks for the advice.
RE: Vacuum Help... - Simpler=Better - 11-11-2012
Oring between the master and booster, check that first mine was disintegrated
RE: Vacuum Help... - Chuckler3 - 11-15-2012
thanks for the heads-up. I got the new booster in today. Came with a new o-ring.. spent about 130 on it.. hopefully it'll get in the car before the weekend.