(10-04-2014, 10:43 AM)Greazzer OK, just about done my air box mod as well as permanent M+W injection set up. I have realized that I can vent to the outside the crankcase gases from the VC. This causes a drop or two of oil on the pavement every now and then. Very, very annoying.

OR,

I will need a catchcan. The pricing ranges from $20-ish shipped to $500-ish shipped. OR, I can make one for around $50-ish.

What have folks used and what do folks like ?

(10-04-2014, 09:23 PM)raysorenson Oil has an octane rating of about 30. This is why catch cans are used on gas engines that require high octane. I can't think of any reason not to route blow by right into the turbo on a diesel.

(10-04-2014, 04:47 PM)Edian727 I'd use a glass jar and hose clamp it somewhere(use some rubber on the clamps like the stuff to put on gas tank straps). drill a hole in the top just bigger then the hose, then your misty oil cant escape and muck up your engine bay, and you can still vent properly, or you can make the hole tight and put a breather filter out the lid too. i like the idea of the fishing line never heard of that, but sounds like a good idea. glass just looks better then a gatorade bottle lol.

(10-05-2014, 05:27 AM)Druk

(10-04-2014, 09:23 PM)raysorenson Oil has an octane rating of about 30. This is why catch cans are used on gas engines that require high octane. I can't think of any reason not to route blow by right into the turbo on a diesel.

Cos it condenses out inside the intercooler and makes a real mess given time.

(10-06-2014, 02:07 AM)mike-81-240d I cut the stock oil seperator out of the factory air box, and use it instead.

(10-06-2014, 08:56 AM)mbz123

(10-06-2014, 02:07 AM)mike-81-240d I cut the stock oil seperator out of the factory air box, and use it instead.

Ditto. Free and it will look as good as you want it to. Use your imagination for the receptacle. Heck, put it inside of a gatorade bottle if it blows your hair back. lol

There's NO voodoo and absolutely NO reason to pad someone else's pockets, no offense w123love. It is a simple device that you won't perfect so save your resources and sanity. Even the best engineered examples (using cyclone, venturi, Bernoulli, etc.) can't completely remove the oil.

Actually, the biggest "problem" for most is the reintroduction into the charge air circuit. Every available surface along this path WILL be coated with condensate continuing to separate. The effect on intake air temp is minimal, not enough volume. Your current hose to the ground solution provides little opportunity for condensation and no low point as a reservoir (unless you consider the ground a reservoir.) It's as simple as that.

Some hints if you choose to fab yourself:

Pack the inside of your catch can with whatever, the goal is max amount of surface area. Scotch-brite and steel wool are commonly used materials. For the receptacle, use a plugged length of clear tubing attached with a hose clamp. You can monitor and replace as needed. Your inlet and outlet ports should not be positioned to allow the flow a non-interactive path. Though gravity is responsible for most of the separation, improving contact between the flow and packing material also increases the separation efficiency. And if you don't want slick coated internal surfaces along your intake simply vent the catch can to atmosphere.

MBZ123

(10-06-2014, 02:07 AM)mike-81-240d I cut the stock oil seperator out of the factory air box, and use it instead.

(10-07-2014, 05:21 AM)MTUPower

(10-06-2014, 02:07 AM)mike-81-240d I cut the stock oil seperator out of the factory air box, and use it instead.

Older 616 models have an exterior stand alone sep unit. That's what I used and then instead of routing the air return to the intake I routed it to a gatorade bottle instead of the ground. The 616 model (as all sep units) did not get all the vapor which is why I put the fishing line inside the final bottle- then my engine compartment has less mess.