At this work, start autumn and start a Project thread about this, hope I'll have a diesel in the boat for next season

(07-17-2017, 04:15 AM)NZScott 130hp might be a little optimistic, from memory the the STT turbo kits for the OM616 were about 90 odd hp, and normally marine engines are derated so who knows. I'm hoping to get 200 or so with my NA to turbo OM617 conversion however so no reason your engine can't make it, just a matter of will it sustain that power, the piston oil squirters are probably a good idea considering you'll be at 130hp for hours on end rather than just short times like in a car.

K26 is a very old tech turbo, I would look at something more modern to reduce exhaust backpressure.

(07-17-2017, 04:40 AM)barrote What i dont understand is why would u have all this asle in a conversion, and then choose a shitty engine and pre dinosaur tech like the 616.
Its ood.
If i understand anything about marine trusters they tend to be of konstant (or narrow band) RPM. So u need a engine that has BSFC consistent with the truster u have or intend to adapt.
And like mr Scot said , marinized engines will work mostly at konstant RPM at max TQ output , so building a pump for this aplication fueling must be conservative since u cant lift pedal down the hills . And the truster will ask the same hp no mater in aceleration or cruise.Å
If i were u , i would swap the volvo by a 617A or a 603. Use it liquid cooled, and oil cooled by sea water heat exchangers.
This engines can give u kontant TQ by 3000 rpm and will last years with stock fueling.
617A can handle 150hp and 603, 170 so a lot better choices that the tiny 616.

On the other hand, if u really want go ahed with this conversion i need a modded pump. And the original 616 can be moded for more power.

Welcome

(07-17-2017, 06:16 AM)barrote Did some reserch and the OM616 was produced with 3 type of injection pump, A , M , and MW.
If your 616 is equiped with A type is a industrial /marinized engine and uses a variable load governor much alike a generator. I never worked in this pump , i have a friend that did.
If it has MW pump there in not much that can be done for a 50% output increase.
If it has a M pump there is lot that can be done. M pumps can be modded to output at least 150cc . This small M's.
Also the w123 was sold with 616 and M pump.
Nevertheless u can contact Dieselmeken in sweden. He's in Aneby town. And he can help u a lot.
Regards.

(07-17-2017, 08:31 PM)Simpler=Better The oil squirters are hard to add, you might as well use a 617 if you really want them.

I'd say if you port the head, use a modern turbo, a big oil cooler, and have dieselmenken rework a 'M' pump you imght be able to do it.

A 617 would be much easier though, and the bell housings all match up.

A marine/generator injection pump could easily be sold in the USA-people always want to make OM616 generators and that's the missing piece of the puzzle.

(07-18-2017, 08:03 AM)barrote Mr smugler ....
The one milion miles MB engine is the 617A!!!
I guess it says it all about this engine. The 616 is a derivative, rather than a predecessor.
617A were industrialized and marinized too. U should have no wories finding the seawater heat exchangers.
In the 617A u can ask 150hp constantly and expect no wories.
The best turbo solution for this 617 is a holsed HX30 series. Holsets are mainly used in heavy duty aplications. For us road drivers the are not so good due to lag , but for a boat engine that is not a problem.
It fits the 616 too. And for 1000 € u can buy a original in the box a still have some money left for f ^*& beers.
If u have room and weight available this is from all the best solution. Even a 617 N/A turboed will last longuer.
Regards.

(07-24-2017, 01:43 AM)R-3350 if you really want something reliable and capable of ~150HP output for sustained periods of time i might not look at a 616. the stress of turbo charging it over a long period of running would likely kill it. look at the cat 3116 marine engines they can live an ok life if you run them at the de-rated power level but if you get the 350hp version good luck getting past 500 hours out of them without real problems. im not saying a 616 couldn't make 150+hp just that in a boat where you are going to be running it near wide open for a long time it wouldn't live a long life.

(07-24-2017, 03:06 AM)NZScott If you do keep on the 616 route I realise you don't want to fork out big money on a modern turbo but just look for something 2nd hand that's more modern than a K26, I cringe when I see people rebuilding that and the stock Garrett T3 as they're just so old and inefficient and the money would be far better off spent elsewhere

(07-25-2017, 02:25 AM)NZScott Would you get away without it? I would think the manifold would suck enough heat out of it (which is a bad thing from a performance by of view but it is done for reasons in boats). You're still going to run water into the exhaust post turbo?

(07-26-2017, 01:42 AM)NZScott Up to you, best to err on the side of caution. Wrapping is probably alright for any exposed non water jacketed stuff, it won't see the temps of a petrol engine I would think? Can always trial it anyway

Yes, I know, it makes it more difficult  I'm not sure that a turbo cap is sufficient? Will there be an exhaust gas temperature of 500-600C after mainfold? One of the reasons I want to switch from gasoline to diesel is to reduce fire risk.

(07-27-2017, 12:01 AM)NZScott Temps will drop maybe up to a couple hundred *C post turbo and you won't want to be running 600* constantly with no oil cooling nozzles I would think, 500 would be better I would think so maybe 300-400 post turbo at a wild guess

(07-27-2017, 09:22 PM)NZScott The engine will have load on it to get the turbo going, you just have to shove air in on top of that to bring temps down. Marine engines are constant load so the right turbo could be calculated in theory to do the job.

What injection pump do you have in mind? The 5.5mm elements won't cut it. Can get them swapped for bigger ones (6mm would do I think) or swap pumps completely to a 4 cyl one off a more powerful engine (something us 5 cylinder owners can't really do)

(07-17-2017, 08:31 PM)Simpler=Better I'd say if you port the head, use a modern turbo, a big oil cooler, and have dieselmenken rework a 'M' pump you imght be able to do it.

(07-28-2017, 04:51 PM)Smuggler Having talked to a company that is renovating turbo and they recommend a refurbished water cooled K26 as a budget alternative, otherwise they can build a turbo according to my needs but then it will be about 3-4 times more expensive. This is a low budget project so the more expensive options there is no room for. Used marine turbos also seem to be lacking, expensive and insecure condition.
So I'm a bit on a turbo from a car and use turbo cap and wrap it? If it still does not have to be water-cooled, which I thought previously, maybe it might be an alternative, much more access to than marine turbos.
Is there anyone who can count and suggest turbo, I'm grateful?
Have looked at the Garrett GT2052V standard on the Volvo D2,4 / D5 and the Audi 2.5 TDI is available from about 300 euros used. The problem is that it is VNT controlled do not know if I can solve that control with vacuum? Or if I'm going to look for a WG controlled turbo aggregate instead? Seems like any newer turbo is VNT controlled?

Regarding the injection pump, I have talked to Dieselmeken and he says there should be no problem rebuilding my pump to deliver diesel for 130hp or what I wish. Do not know what size of elements he will use.

(07-29-2017, 09:33 AM)barrote Sorry to imput... and disturb your ideas...
Stationary engines usually use freefloat turbo systems... they just operate in ideal conditions... VNT and WG turbos are used in automotive aplications due the fact that users want (and need)a flat power band if possible. 
Systems tend to mask deficiencies... by aleviating drive press in WG . And by changing turbine relative a/r in VNTs. 
A WG turbo is not needed for a boat engine neither desirable, a VNT is completely of question due to low eficiency. 
But in any case the automotive industry can suply a very fine and cheap turbo for a boat. Like a gt20w.
And about temp... well the hotter the gas enters the turbine the lower the drive press will be for the same work.  turbine cooling is only desirable and needed when gas stream is over 1000°C continuously and that cause the turbine may start to melt. 
If heating in engine bay is a problem... shield it, as it is the best option.
130 hp from 616 continuous ... 
It sounds recepy for desaster... but we only know that after trying...
Good build

(07-31-2017, 08:27 AM)barrote Hy mr Smugler
VNT crap is not suitable for stationary engines due to low eficiency.(design related)
GT20 is best found on 602/605 and 611.
Its not the melting pistons that kill the engine.... neither oil squirters or having a cooler Xor y... its the continuous load ...
Put this simply, a automotive 200hp engine when used in stationary aplication has to be derated to 80hp(guess) otherwise the engine will heat up and colapse everithing will melt , block will warp , gaskets burn, rings will eat the cylinder walls and so on... its not just a question of oil heat and Egt and coolant... is a lot more... the engine has to be studied under load expecially the ring pressure leak. After all it is the ring leak that will determine how long it will last.