stan's 240D
stan's 240D
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
01-02-2014, 12:31 PM #201Keep it full of oil and fuel and coolant and it should last forever. I miss daily driving my 240d 4spd now I need to focus on my 300td 5spd and get it on the road!
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(01-02-2014, 10:27 AM)JB3 how did you kill the GTI?
nothing! according to the mechanic it probably ate the valvetrain which i found out is a common thing on these cars - vw extended the warranty to 120k but mine was at 129k when it happened. :-\
took the 240D to work today with great success. 50 miles to work in stop and go traffic, 50 miles home cruising at 75mph with no traffic. didn't overheat in either case which is a relief. there is a vibration at speed that is independent of the engine (clutch in and idle coasting at 75mph to check this). i'm 99% sure it's the driveshaft vibrating which i would guess is one of two things - either the u-joint is not used to being in proper position since i put a new center support bearing/bracket, or i reassembled the driveshaft halves in the wrong position with respect to each other. unfortunately since i didnt mark them before i did the engine swap, and it's an older 240 (no markings to show the alignment of the halves) i don't know how i'm going to fix that other than trying different positions.....
but other than the driveshaft vibration and bad ignition shutoff vac valve, everything is absolutely perfect and awesome!
(01-02-2014, 10:27 AM)JB3 how did you kill the GTI?
nothing! according to the mechanic it probably ate the valvetrain which i found out is a common thing on these cars - vw extended the warranty to 120k but mine was at 129k when it happened. :-\
took the 240D to work today with great success. 50 miles to work in stop and go traffic, 50 miles home cruising at 75mph with no traffic. didn't overheat in either case which is a relief. there is a vibration at speed that is independent of the engine (clutch in and idle coasting at 75mph to check this). i'm 99% sure it's the driveshaft vibrating which i would guess is one of two things - either the u-joint is not used to being in proper position since i put a new center support bearing/bracket, or i reassembled the driveshaft halves in the wrong position with respect to each other. unfortunately since i didnt mark them before i did the engine swap, and it's an older 240 (no markings to show the alignment of the halves) i don't know how i'm going to fix that other than trying different positions.....
but other than the driveshaft vibration and bad ignition shutoff vac valve, everything is absolutely perfect and awesome!
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
Simpler=Better
02-15-2014, 11:52 AM #203Does the VW have press-fit cams like ferds and chebbys? Probably a good idea to drill & add a roll pin if it does
Newbie-read this: Cheap Tricks
617.952-220k-Getting built up
larsalan I guess I need to look at this stupid ass drip shit. What you have to like mess with those elements on the pump? What a fucking hassle. then use some wire to hold the throttle open or some shit?
temp gauge sometimes randomly jumps around, need to investigate why. the temp sender is new, and the wiring is secured at least at the sender end.
cluster illumination does not work, hopefully just an issue of a loose connection or dead bulbs
stereo sucks, new head unit and speakers with oem fitment would be nice, gotta figure out what will fit.
something is rattling against the exhaust at idle, annoying noise that would be nice to fix.
valve adjustment seems like a good idea since i have no idea when it was last done. gotta stop by harbor freight and get some wrenches to bend with the mapp torch.
possibly pick up those e-code h4 housings you can put in place of the 7" sealed beams. my fogs are h3 right now and way way way brighter than my low/high beams, which is annoying.
fiddly projects to-do list:
temp gauge sometimes randomly jumps around, need to investigate why. the temp sender is new, and the wiring is secured at least at the sender end.
cluster illumination does not work, hopefully just an issue of a loose connection or dead bulbs
stereo sucks, new head unit and speakers with oem fitment would be nice, gotta figure out what will fit.
something is rattling against the exhaust at idle, annoying noise that would be nice to fix.
valve adjustment seems like a good idea since i have no idea when it was last done. gotta stop by harbor freight and get some wrenches to bend with the mapp torch.
possibly pick up those e-code h4 housings you can put in place of the 7" sealed beams. my fogs are h3 right now and way way way brighter than my low/high beams, which is annoying.
thinking of grabbing some injectors next time i go, gotta figure out if 617 and 616 injectors are the same - anyone know offhand? would be nice to pick up a set to rebuild so i don't have to take the 240 offline to do it.
stopped by wilmington ecology this morning on the way to work, not very many W123s (maybe 4?) and most were picked pretty clean, but found a 240D with the same breather setup as mine and got the hose I needed. saw a turbo wagon with a minty turbo - no shaft play, smooth bearings - totally tempted to get it just because, but not today. also grabbed a clip to replace the missing one for the radiator. spent a whopping $4.54 for 2 clips and the breather line. i forgot how much i love walking around the junkyard
thinking of grabbing some injectors next time i go, gotta figure out if 617 and 616 injectors are the same - anyone know offhand? would be nice to pick up a set to rebuild so i don't have to take the 240 offline to do it.
(03-24-2014, 07:55 PM)stan stopped by wilmington ecology this morning on the way to work, not very many W123s (maybe 4?) and most were picked pretty clean, but found a 240D with the same breather setup as mine and got the hose I needed. saw a turbo wagon with a minty turbo - no shaft play, smooth bearings - totally tempted to get it just because, but not today. also grabbed a clip to replace the missing one for the radiator. spent a whopping $4.54 for 2 clips and the breather line. i forgot how much i love walking around the junkyard
thinking of grabbing some injectors next time i go, gotta figure out if 617 and 616 injectors are the same - anyone know offhand? would be nice to pick up a set to rebuild so i don't have to take the 240 offline to do it.
should be the same, i Think its the nozzles that matter but those also fit in the same car.
Honestly, Im the last person to give out advice on anything. I have no idea what im doing half the time.
Purplecomputer
03-25-2014, 07:44 AM #207(03-24-2014, 07:55 PM)stan stopped by wilmington ecology this morning on the way to work, not very many W123s (maybe 4?) and most were picked pretty clean, but found a 240D with the same breather setup as mine and got the hose I needed. saw a turbo wagon with a minty turbo - no shaft play, smooth bearings - totally tempted to get it just because, but not today. also grabbed a clip to replace the missing one for the radiator. spent a whopping $4.54 for 2 clips and the breather line. i forgot how much i love walking around the junkyard
thinking of grabbing some injectors next time i go, gotta figure out if 617 and 616 injectors are the same - anyone know offhand? would be nice to pick up a set to rebuild so i don't have to take the 240 offline to do it.
should be the same, i Think its the nozzles that matter but those also fit in the same car.
Honestly, Im the last person to give out advice on anything. I have no idea what im doing half the time.
got the car home, tried bleeding more with the clutch pedal to no effect. tried putting 1/4" ID fuel hose connecting the front passenger side brake caliper bleeder and the clutch slave bleeder, also no effect. not sure wtf to do at this point
game plan for tomorrow:
-find 3/16" ID fuel line. some threads reference this size, so maybe it's a fitment issue i'm having.
-get teflon tape. maybe the bleeder threaders on the clutch slave are a little leaky making things more difficult.
-get an oil can. there's a bunch of people using a method where you just pump fluid up through the clutch slave bleeder rather than piping it over from the brake.
if i'm still unable to get it bled using different sized hose, teflon tape on the bleeder threads, and an oil can pumping fluid up through the system, i'm going to just start replacing everything.
if i start replacing parts, and don't see any reason to do differently, it'll go in this order
1) clutch slave
2) clutch master
3) braided fill line between clutch master and fluid res
4) flex line - i really doubt this one because the flex line is one i had made at a hose shop and has good braised-on fittings and new stainless braided hose.
i've got a second date this week with the girl from the first date where the clutch originally went out. really need this damn thing working >
took a first date out with the car and OF COURSE SOMETHING BREAKS. the clutch decided to quit on me as we were making our way into downtown LA. ended up on the side of the road messing with the car. tried opening the clutch slave bleeder and having her pump the clutch, which was marginally effective. got me enough clutch to limp around and finish the night out.
got the car home, tried bleeding more with the clutch pedal to no effect. tried putting 1/4" ID fuel hose connecting the front passenger side brake caliper bleeder and the clutch slave bleeder, also no effect. not sure wtf to do at this point
game plan for tomorrow:
-find 3/16" ID fuel line. some threads reference this size, so maybe it's a fitment issue i'm having.
-get teflon tape. maybe the bleeder threaders on the clutch slave are a little leaky making things more difficult.
-get an oil can. there's a bunch of people using a method where you just pump fluid up through the clutch slave bleeder rather than piping it over from the brake.
if i'm still unable to get it bled using different sized hose, teflon tape on the bleeder threads, and an oil can pumping fluid up through the system, i'm going to just start replacing everything.
if i start replacing parts, and don't see any reason to do differently, it'll go in this order
1) clutch slave
2) clutch master
3) braided fill line between clutch master and fluid res
4) flex line - i really doubt this one because the flex line is one i had made at a hose shop and has good braised-on fittings and new stainless braided hose.
i've got a second date this week with the girl from the first date where the clutch originally went out. really need this damn thing working >
buy a new slave and master together as a unit. Dont waste your time trying to troubleshoot which one is broken now, because classicly, if they are the same old unknown vintage, the one thats leaking will quickly be followed by the ones thats not pretty fast as soon as a new part is installed.
There hasn't been a single time I replaced a old clutch slave or a master on one of these cars where in a matter of days the old component on the other end started leaking too. It will save you some time doing both at once, but bench bleed the master first.
The bleeding from the brake caliper never works consistently. Thats a factory procedure written down by a bunch of clever Germans in a clean room 30 years ago. bleed the clutch with a mity-vac, dont bother with the brake bleed. IF it works, the brake bleed method only takes about 20 to 30 slow brake pumps to bleed the clutch hydraulics, if its more than that and you dont have a pedal yet, abort the method and do something else.
funny date story! Shes game for another date after that, that makes her all right in my book.
I once picked up a girl on a date in an old crappy lebaron, and I was going to be all kinds of cool and show off my power convertible top to the lucky lady. Hit the button, and the rear window (glass in those cars) torqued somehow, and exploded like a grenade, covering both of us in safety glass. Then it got really fucking cold later in the night and she didn't have a jacket. That was it for that girl, she had enough.
this one is still talking to you, so you are still in the game!
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
LOL
buy a new slave and master together as a unit. Dont waste your time trying to troubleshoot which one is broken now, because classicly, if they are the same old unknown vintage, the one thats leaking will quickly be followed by the ones thats not pretty fast as soon as a new part is installed.
There hasn't been a single time I replaced a old clutch slave or a master on one of these cars where in a matter of days the old component on the other end started leaking too. It will save you some time doing both at once, but bench bleed the master first.
The bleeding from the brake caliper never works consistently. Thats a factory procedure written down by a bunch of clever Germans in a clean room 30 years ago. bleed the clutch with a mity-vac, dont bother with the brake bleed. IF it works, the brake bleed method only takes about 20 to 30 slow brake pumps to bleed the clutch hydraulics, if its more than that and you dont have a pedal yet, abort the method and do something else.
funny date story! Shes game for another date after that, that makes her all right in my book.
I once picked up a girl on a date in an old crappy lebaron, and I was going to be all kinds of cool and show off my power convertible top to the lucky lady. Hit the button, and the rear window (glass in those cars) torqued somehow, and exploded like a grenade, covering both of us in safety glass. Then it got really fucking cold later in the night and she didn't have a jacket. That was it for that girl, she had enough.
this one is still talking to you, so you are still in the game!
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
(03-31-2014, 03:37 AM)stan took a first date out with the car and OF COURSE SOMETHING BREAKS. the clutch decided to quit on me as we were making our way into downtown LA. ended up on the side of the road messing with the car. tried opening the clutch slave bleeder and having her pump the clutch, which was marginally effective. got me enough clutch to limp around and finish the night out.
got the car home, tried bleeding more with the clutch pedal to no effect. tried putting 1/4" ID fuel hose connecting the front passenger side brake caliper bleeder and the clutch slave bleeder, also no effect. not sure wtf to do at this point
game plan for tomorrow:
-find 3/16" ID fuel line. some threads reference this size, so maybe it's a fitment issue i'm having.
-get teflon tape. maybe the bleeder threaders on the clutch slave are a little leaky making things more difficult.
-get an oil can. there's a bunch of people using a method where you just pump fluid up through the clutch slave bleeder rather than piping it over from the brake.
if i'm still unable to get it bled using different sized hose, teflon tape on the bleeder threads, and an oil can pumping fluid up through the system, i'm going to just start replacing everything.
if i start replacing parts, and don't see any reason to do differently, it'll go in this order
1) clutch slave
2) clutch master
3) braided fill line between clutch master and fluid res
4) flex line - i really doubt this one because the flex line is one i had made at a hose shop and has good braised-on fittings and new stainless braided hose.
i've got a second date this week with the girl from the first date where the clutch originally went out. really need this damn thing working >
i say shes pretty cool if she stuck around and considered a second date.
i would agree with JB3 just replace everything you can. That stuff is probably as old as the car. the extra work would be worth it in the long run.
just look at me!
Purplecomputer
03-31-2014, 10:42 AM #210(03-31-2014, 03:37 AM)stan took a first date out with the car and OF COURSE SOMETHING BREAKS. the clutch decided to quit on me as we were making our way into downtown LA. ended up on the side of the road messing with the car. tried opening the clutch slave bleeder and having her pump the clutch, which was marginally effective. got me enough clutch to limp around and finish the night out.
got the car home, tried bleeding more with the clutch pedal to no effect. tried putting 1/4" ID fuel hose connecting the front passenger side brake caliper bleeder and the clutch slave bleeder, also no effect. not sure wtf to do at this point
game plan for tomorrow:
-find 3/16" ID fuel line. some threads reference this size, so maybe it's a fitment issue i'm having.
-get teflon tape. maybe the bleeder threaders on the clutch slave are a little leaky making things more difficult.
-get an oil can. there's a bunch of people using a method where you just pump fluid up through the clutch slave bleeder rather than piping it over from the brake.
if i'm still unable to get it bled using different sized hose, teflon tape on the bleeder threads, and an oil can pumping fluid up through the system, i'm going to just start replacing everything.
if i start replacing parts, and don't see any reason to do differently, it'll go in this order
1) clutch slave
2) clutch master
3) braided fill line between clutch master and fluid res
4) flex line - i really doubt this one because the flex line is one i had made at a hose shop and has good braised-on fittings and new stainless braided hose.
i've got a second date this week with the girl from the first date where the clutch originally went out. really need this damn thing working >
i say shes pretty cool if she stuck around and considered a second date.
i would agree with JB3 just replace everything you can. That stuff is probably as old as the car. the extra work would be worth it in the long run.
just look at me!
on other projects:
-need to find/figure out wave washers for the valve cover nuts. seems i missed those on the original install, it'd be good to get them in place when i do the valve adjustment.
-did the first bends on a set of 14mm wrenches, total investment ~$15 plus whatever fuel came out of the mapp torch.
-the temp gauge issue mentioned earlier seems to have gone away on its own, so that's nice.
-found the rattle in the exhaust - the clamp right by the transmission is missing its nut, hopefully putting a nut on there will be the end of that issue and make the car sound like less of a rust bucket at stoplights
side note: holy jesus my driveline is purrrrty now. the rebuild shaft is all glossy black, the u-joint is real nice looking, the shaft has proper blatant markings on the alignment of the halves, and all the new flex disc and trans mount rubber looks fantastic. very pleased with that one.
considering doing the bosch al129x swap like i did on my 300TD (posted on here!), the current alternator doesn't appear to have any problems but now that i'm depending on the car as a DD it would be real annoying to kill that expensive battery i bought recently. also a good chance to replace the alternator bracket and L-bolt, as the current L-bolt is kinda beat/bent up.
got a set of injector hard lines that i pulled from a JY 240d that i have been meaning to clean up real nice, the ones on my car right now were pulled from a 300D originally and are all woodly-noodly. probably will throw those in the ultrasonic and get them all spick and span. also will be a good chance to see if my 27mm deep socket is deep enough for pulling injectors, because i really do want to rebuild a fresh set. the interesting thing will be trying to track down someone with a pop tester, or having to roll my own.
looking like pelican might not have my parts ready for today, so i'm thinking to deal with removing the old master/slave cylinders tonight. any reason you guys think that'd be ill-advised? i'm going to be bleeding the whole thing so it's not as though i need to worry about air getting in the lines, and i can cap them off so no dust wanders in overnight.
on other projects:
-need to find/figure out wave washers for the valve cover nuts. seems i missed those on the original install, it'd be good to get them in place when i do the valve adjustment.
-did the first bends on a set of 14mm wrenches, total investment ~$15 plus whatever fuel came out of the mapp torch.
-the temp gauge issue mentioned earlier seems to have gone away on its own, so that's nice.
-found the rattle in the exhaust - the clamp right by the transmission is missing its nut, hopefully putting a nut on there will be the end of that issue and make the car sound like less of a rust bucket at stoplights
side note: holy jesus my driveline is purrrrty now. the rebuild shaft is all glossy black, the u-joint is real nice looking, the shaft has proper blatant markings on the alignment of the halves, and all the new flex disc and trans mount rubber looks fantastic. very pleased with that one.
considering doing the bosch al129x swap like i did on my 300TD (posted on here!), the current alternator doesn't appear to have any problems but now that i'm depending on the car as a DD it would be real annoying to kill that expensive battery i bought recently. also a good chance to replace the alternator bracket and L-bolt, as the current L-bolt is kinda beat/bent up.
got a set of injector hard lines that i pulled from a JY 240d that i have been meaning to clean up real nice, the ones on my car right now were pulled from a 300D originally and are all woodly-noodly. probably will throw those in the ultrasonic and get them all spick and span. also will be a good chance to see if my 27mm deep socket is deep enough for pulling injectors, because i really do want to rebuild a fresh set. the interesting thing will be trying to track down someone with a pop tester, or having to roll my own.
also took the opportunity to go ahead and do a valve adjustment. my DIY valve wrenches worked great, and the job was quite pleasant.
Valves measured as follows before my adjustments (number corresponding to cylinder, letter for intake/exhaust)
(radiator)
E1 - 0.25mm
I1 - 0.10mm (but very tight, adjusted this)
I2 - 0.10mm
E2 - 0.30mm
E3 - 0.30mm
I3 - 0.15mm (very tight)
I4 - 0.10mm
E4 - 0.25mm
(firewall)
got everything adjusted as finely as possible. set clearances so a size up (0.15mm and 0.35mm respectively) would not fit, but spec size fit without excessive scraping. adjusted to spec listed on rad support - 0.10mm intake, 0.30mm exhaust.
need to go get some wave washers as the ones i have are too small, so the valve cover is sitting in place with the old gasket until tomorrow.
for my records: odometer reading is 233,736
(03-31-2014, 09:57 AM)JB3 ...It will save you some time doing both at once, but bench bleed the master first....
when you say bench bleed the master - any specific procedure for that? i have the old master out and i can't really picture how best to do that.
(03-31-2014, 09:57 AM)JB3 The bleeding from the brake caliper never works consistently. Thats a factory procedure written down by a bunch of clever Germans in a clean room 30 years ago. bleed the clutch with a mity-vac, dont bother with the brake bleed. IF it works, the brake bleed method only takes about 20 to 30 slow brake pumps to bleed the clutch hydraulics, if its more than that and you dont have a pedal yet, abort the method and do something else.
why mity-vac? i was going to go with the oiler can method (push fluid up from the slave bleeder) i've seen a few people mention. any reason to use a mity-vac instead?
(03-31-2014, 09:57 AM)JB3 funny date story! Shes game for another date after that, that makes her all right in my book.
I once picked up a girl on a date in an old crappy lebaron, and I was going to be all kinds of cool and show off my power convertible top to the lucky lady. Hit the button, and the rear window (glass in those cars) torqued somehow, and exploded like a grenade, covering both of us in safety glass. Then it got really fucking cold later in the night and she didn't have a jacket. That was it for that girl, she had enough.
this one is still talking to you, so you are still in the game!
yeah she seems like a cool one, hopefully we don't have any more breakdowns to push my luck. that'd just be horrible if the car decided to pull another stunt on the second date LOL
bummer about your exploding glass story
pelican order wasn't ready for today, so tonight i went ahead and got the clutch slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder removed to make tomorrow easier. the master cylinder was kind of a pain but luckily i'm flexible and managed to pull everything without too much issue. didn't even have to remove the driver's seat! the line feeding into the slave cylinder was the biggest chore of that whole thing.
also took the opportunity to go ahead and do a valve adjustment. my DIY valve wrenches worked great, and the job was quite pleasant.
Valves measured as follows before my adjustments (number corresponding to cylinder, letter for intake/exhaust)
(radiator)
E1 - 0.25mm
I1 - 0.10mm (but very tight, adjusted this)
I2 - 0.10mm
E2 - 0.30mm
E3 - 0.30mm
I3 - 0.15mm (very tight)
I4 - 0.10mm
E4 - 0.25mm
(firewall)
got everything adjusted as finely as possible. set clearances so a size up (0.15mm and 0.35mm respectively) would not fit, but spec size fit without excessive scraping. adjusted to spec listed on rad support - 0.10mm intake, 0.30mm exhaust.
need to go get some wave washers as the ones i have are too small, so the valve cover is sitting in place with the old gasket until tomorrow.
for my records: odometer reading is 233,736
(03-31-2014, 09:57 AM)JB3 ...It will save you some time doing both at once, but bench bleed the master first....
when you say bench bleed the master - any specific procedure for that? i have the old master out and i can't really picture how best to do that.
(03-31-2014, 09:57 AM)JB3 The bleeding from the brake caliper never works consistently. Thats a factory procedure written down by a bunch of clever Germans in a clean room 30 years ago. bleed the clutch with a mity-vac, dont bother with the brake bleed. IF it works, the brake bleed method only takes about 20 to 30 slow brake pumps to bleed the clutch hydraulics, if its more than that and you dont have a pedal yet, abort the method and do something else.
why mity-vac? i was going to go with the oiler can method (push fluid up from the slave bleeder) i've seen a few people mention. any reason to use a mity-vac instead?
(03-31-2014, 09:57 AM)JB3 funny date story! Shes game for another date after that, that makes her all right in my book.
I once picked up a girl on a date in an old crappy lebaron, and I was going to be all kinds of cool and show off my power convertible top to the lucky lady. Hit the button, and the rear window (glass in those cars) torqued somehow, and exploded like a grenade, covering both of us in safety glass. Then it got really fucking cold later in the night and she didn't have a jacket. That was it for that girl, she had enough.
this one is still talking to you, so you are still in the game!
yeah she seems like a cool one, hopefully we don't have any more breakdowns to push my luck. that'd just be horrible if the car decided to pull another stunt on the second date LOL
bummer about your exploding glass story
The worst was the BMW... The valve cover gasket would start leaking like a sieve making the interior smell worse then the Exxon Valdez... lol
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
mike-81-240d
04-02-2014, 06:41 PM #214Whenever a girl got in any of my cars the cars would act up.
The worst was the BMW... The valve cover gasket would start leaking like a sieve making the interior smell worse then the Exxon Valdez... lol
1981 Mercedes 300TD Lowered 4 speed manual Holset HX30
the clutch job really wasn't nearly as bad as people make it out to be. there's stuff that is tricky, but it only took me like 2 hours.
everything seems to be working great! shifts are even less clunky than before, so i guess the clutch hyrdraulics had been in bad shape. i had figured it was just the nature of the thing (this is my first 4spd w123). the engine also seems to be idling smoother now that i did that valve adjustment, which is cool.
the clutch job really wasn't nearly as bad as people make it out to be. there's stuff that is tricky, but it only took me like 2 hours.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
04-03-2014, 09:50 AM #216luckily the w123 manual transmissions are super light I swapped the whole transmission in one car in less than 2 hours. Of course I did not touch the clutch. But I was able to loosen most of the bell housing bolts from the engine compartment leaning over the fender
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(04-03-2014, 09:50 AM)willbhere4u luckily the w123 manual transmissions are super light I swapped the whole transmission in one car in less than 2 hours. Of course I did not touch the clutch. But I was able to loosen most of the bell housing bolts from the engine compartment leaning over the fender
seriously, this is why the 240D was such a nice choice over a 300D. it can be a bummer working with such little power when getting onto LA freeways, but having all the extra room to work in the engine bay is a dream. i was leaning over the fender and reaching down to the clutch slave to attach the hardline last night. there are times i think it'd be fun to have another '85 turbo, but this 240D with manual everything really avoids some of the major headaches you get with other W123s.
(04-03-2014, 09:50 AM)willbhere4u luckily the w123 manual transmissions are super light I swapped the whole transmission in one car in less than 2 hours. Of course I did not touch the clutch. But I was able to loosen most of the bell housing bolts from the engine compartment leaning over the fender
seriously, this is why the 240D was such a nice choice over a 300D. it can be a bummer working with such little power when getting onto LA freeways, but having all the extra room to work in the engine bay is a dream. i was leaning over the fender and reaching down to the clutch slave to attach the hardline last night. there are times i think it'd be fun to have another '85 turbo, but this 240D with manual everything really avoids some of the major headaches you get with other W123s.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
04-03-2014, 03:21 PM #218I disconnected the whole slave cylinder and left the lines attached so I would not have to re bleed it.
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(04-03-2014, 12:30 PM)stan(04-03-2014, 09:50 AM)willbhere4u luckily the w123 manual transmissions are super light I swapped the whole transmission in one car in less than 2 hours. Of course I did not touch the clutch. But I was able to loosen most of the bell housing bolts from the engine compartment leaning over the fender
seriously, this is why the 240D was such a nice choice over a 300D. it can be a bummer working with such little power when getting onto LA freeways, but having all the extra room to work in the engine bay is a dream. i was leaning over the fender and reaching down to the clutch slave to attach the hardline last night. there are times i think it'd be fun to have another '85 turbo, but this 240D with manual everything really avoids some of the major headaches you get with other W123s.
Slap a turbo on it! Seriously! Once everything is all set up correctly this thing keeps up pretty well in traffic. I can even PASS trucks!
Purplecomputer
04-04-2014, 10:09 AM #219(04-03-2014, 12:30 PM)stan(04-03-2014, 09:50 AM)willbhere4u luckily the w123 manual transmissions are super light I swapped the whole transmission in one car in less than 2 hours. Of course I did not touch the clutch. But I was able to loosen most of the bell housing bolts from the engine compartment leaning over the fender
seriously, this is why the 240D was such a nice choice over a 300D. it can be a bummer working with such little power when getting onto LA freeways, but having all the extra room to work in the engine bay is a dream. i was leaning over the fender and reaching down to the clutch slave to attach the hardline last night. there are times i think it'd be fun to have another '85 turbo, but this 240D with manual everything really avoids some of the major headaches you get with other W123s.
Slap a turbo on it! Seriously! Once everything is all set up correctly this thing keeps up pretty well in traffic. I can even PASS trucks!
(04-04-2014, 10:09 AM)Purplecomputer Slap a turbo on it! Seriously! Once everything is all set up correctly this thing keeps up pretty well in traffic. I can even PASS trucks!
haha, i'll have to read your thread on that. i seem to recall you having some headaches? and the om616's IP isn't going to deliver much in the way of fuel, i'd think the extra power from a turbo would be pretty limited? did you see any change in fuel economy?
(04-04-2014, 10:09 AM)Purplecomputer Slap a turbo on it! Seriously! Once everything is all set up correctly this thing keeps up pretty well in traffic. I can even PASS trucks!
haha, i'll have to read your thread on that. i seem to recall you having some headaches? and the om616's IP isn't going to deliver much in the way of fuel, i'd think the extra power from a turbo would be pretty limited? did you see any change in fuel economy?
(04-05-2014, 03:52 PM)stan(04-04-2014, 10:09 AM)Purplecomputer Slap a turbo on it! Seriously! Once everything is all set up correctly this thing keeps up pretty well in traffic. I can even PASS trucks!
haha, i'll have to read your thread on that. i seem to recall you having some headaches? and the om616's IP isn't going to deliver much in the way of fuel, i'd think the extra power from a turbo would be pretty limited? did you see any change in fuel economy?
You have to adjust the pump to add more fuel and a few headaches here and there but right now its running really well.
just have to stay on top of it. What really screwed me over was having two accidents then letting it sit for a whole year
Purplecomputer
04-06-2014, 06:51 AM #221(04-05-2014, 03:52 PM)stan(04-04-2014, 10:09 AM)Purplecomputer Slap a turbo on it! Seriously! Once everything is all set up correctly this thing keeps up pretty well in traffic. I can even PASS trucks!
haha, i'll have to read your thread on that. i seem to recall you having some headaches? and the om616's IP isn't going to deliver much in the way of fuel, i'd think the extra power from a turbo would be pretty limited? did you see any change in fuel economy?
You have to adjust the pump to add more fuel and a few headaches here and there but right now its running really well.
just have to stay on top of it. What really screwed me over was having two accidents then letting it sit for a whole year
Interestingly, one of the injectors has a ton of pitting on the surface of the nozzle, and I noticed some are flat faced while others have little nublets protruding from the outlet. couple of pictures: http://imgur.com/a/LThn2
In an attempt to start being proactive, picked up a set of injectors from a 240D at the junkyard (total cost for all 4, with warranties on the 2 sketchier looking ones = ~$32). My plan is to put new nozzles in, and build a pop tester to get them all shimmed real nice. This way I can have them done and ready to go at my leisure, and not have the car offline for the whole process.
Interestingly, one of the injectors has a ton of pitting on the surface of the nozzle, and I noticed some are flat faced while others have little nublets protruding from the outlet. couple of pictures: http://imgur.com/a/LThn2
(04-07-2014, 04:49 PM)stan In an attempt to start being proactive, picked up a set of injectors from a 240D at the junkyard (total cost for all 4, with warranties on the 2 sketchier looking ones = ~$32). My plan is to put new nozzles in, and build a pop tester to get them all shimmed real nice. This way I can have them done and ready to go at my leisure, and not have the car offline for the whole process.
Interestingly, one of the injectors has a ton of pitting on the surface of the nozzle, and I noticed some are flat faced while others have little nublets protruding from the outlet. couple of pictures: http://imgur.com/a/LThn2
Maybe greazzer can chime in on this. He does a great job cleaning and balancing them.
Purplecomputer
04-07-2014, 05:13 PM #223(04-07-2014, 04:49 PM)stan In an attempt to start being proactive, picked up a set of injectors from a 240D at the junkyard (total cost for all 4, with warranties on the 2 sketchier looking ones = ~$32). My plan is to put new nozzles in, and build a pop tester to get them all shimmed real nice. This way I can have them done and ready to go at my leisure, and not have the car offline for the whole process.
Interestingly, one of the injectors has a ton of pitting on the surface of the nozzle, and I noticed some are flat faced while others have little nublets protruding from the outlet. couple of pictures: http://imgur.com/a/LThn2
Maybe greazzer can chime in on this. He does a great job cleaning and balancing them.
clutch is working good, replaced the old junky feed line from the brake fluid res to the clutch master (it was sucking some air in after the cylinder replacements).
also discovered the brake master cylinder appears to be leaking a bit, so a new brake master cylinder and new brake booster are probably in the list of stuff to replace soon.
car seems to be running a little warmer than i'd like, flushed it out with plain water and refilled with zerex g-05. will look into other flushing procedures and whether a new radiator and/or electric fan conversion might be prudent.
one thing that concerns me is i did the oil filler cap thing - loosened it at idle, and it jumps around quite a bit. anyone care to chime in on whether that means the engine is about to be dusted?
greazzer? paging greazzer....
clutch is working good, replaced the old junky feed line from the brake fluid res to the clutch master (it was sucking some air in after the cylinder replacements).
also discovered the brake master cylinder appears to be leaking a bit, so a new brake master cylinder and new brake booster are probably in the list of stuff to replace soon.
car seems to be running a little warmer than i'd like, flushed it out with plain water and refilled with zerex g-05. will look into other flushing procedures and whether a new radiator and/or electric fan conversion might be prudent.
one thing that concerns me is i did the oil filler cap thing - loosened it at idle, and it jumps around quite a bit. anyone care to chime in on whether that means the engine is about to be dusted?
(04-20-2014, 11:00 PM)stan greazzer? paging greazzer....
clutch is working good, replaced the old junky feed line from the brake fluid res to the clutch master (it was sucking some air in after the cylinder replacements).
also discovered the brake master cylinder appears to be leaking a bit, so a new brake master cylinder and new brake booster are probably in the list of stuff to replace soon.
car seems to be running a little warmer than i'd like, flushed it out with plain water and refilled with zerex g-05. will look into other flushing procedures and whether a new radiator and/or electric fan conversion might be prudent.
one thing that concerns me is i did the oil filler cap thing - loosened it at idle, and it jumps around quite a bit. anyone care to chime in on whether that means the engine is about to be dusted?
My car is also running warm. If you take a look at diesel giants pictorial. He uses a mercedes branded citric powder. But I'm sure you can get the regular stuff from the grocery store and that will work the same. You can even get it on amazon for about $6. also works for other things
The citric acid should help to dissolve any build up since its really an acid. Run that through the engine a few times flush with clean water and top off with coolant, let all the air bleed out.
Im also looking for an electric fan. From what everyone is saying its a well worth upgrade regardless if you are overheating or not.
A decent fan off amazon (Sorry, I have prime membership so i always go to amazon first) is about $140 with the relay and all the works.
Purplecomputer
04-21-2014, 07:16 AM #225(04-20-2014, 11:00 PM)stan greazzer? paging greazzer....
clutch is working good, replaced the old junky feed line from the brake fluid res to the clutch master (it was sucking some air in after the cylinder replacements).
also discovered the brake master cylinder appears to be leaking a bit, so a new brake master cylinder and new brake booster are probably in the list of stuff to replace soon.
car seems to be running a little warmer than i'd like, flushed it out with plain water and refilled with zerex g-05. will look into other flushing procedures and whether a new radiator and/or electric fan conversion might be prudent.
one thing that concerns me is i did the oil filler cap thing - loosened it at idle, and it jumps around quite a bit. anyone care to chime in on whether that means the engine is about to be dusted?
My car is also running warm. If you take a look at diesel giants pictorial. He uses a mercedes branded citric powder. But I'm sure you can get the regular stuff from the grocery store and that will work the same. You can even get it on amazon for about $6. also works for other things
The citric acid should help to dissolve any build up since its really an acid. Run that through the engine a few times flush with clean water and top off with coolant, let all the air bleed out.
Im also looking for an electric fan. From what everyone is saying its a well worth upgrade regardless if you are overheating or not.
A decent fan off amazon (Sorry, I have prime membership so i always go to amazon first) is about $140 with the relay and all the works.
Easter had me tied up. My bad.
That pitting ultimately does not mean anything in regards to the health of the nozzle. I have seen them really pitted, and they popped just fine. I have seen them perfectly flat, and thought bingo found a nice, unused one and it peed like a race horse. I know folks go on their jihad about nozzles having a blued color or rainbow colors and those nozzles are toast. That is most likely true, but I found those which appeared to have been in a kiln, but they popped great. So, the moral of the story is pop test everything. You might be surprised. I even had the various self-professed know it alls on Peach Parts who claimed that stuck pintles ultimately mean not worth your time to tinker with, and I have soaked them in PB blaster or tranny fluid and acetone and guess what ... some of those worked great too once you got them cleaned.
I believe the key is getting all your injectors parts and internals super clean. That is your starting point. Once you get there, then it's hit or miss. You have to pop test them to see what's up. I have had NEW nozzles initially pee a little because they had some sort of metalic grit inside them from the factory. You need a lot of shims since your PSI is also crucial.
As for used nozzles, who knows until you test them. I test used nozzles in batches of 50. Sometimes I will end up with ZERO usable used nozzles. Sometimes I will end up with a whopping 5 or 6. Normally, out of 50, I will get 2 or maybe 3. Before I test them, they are super cleaned as cleaned parts is the KEY !
Sorry for the long winded commentary, but this is not intended to be the end all explanation or definitive guide to nozzles or injectors. I have just learned on other forums, especially PeachParts, there is a small contingent of folks who seem to want to disagree or debate every little topic, ranging from changing your oil to adding washer fluid to the resevoir bottle Or they simply know everything in the world about cars. Interestingly, most of those folks have about zero experience on the topic or they claim, back in the day I used to do this or that a half dozen times ... blah blah
Hope the above helps.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Howdy ...
Easter had me tied up. My bad.
That pitting ultimately does not mean anything in regards to the health of the nozzle. I have seen them really pitted, and they popped just fine. I have seen them perfectly flat, and thought bingo found a nice, unused one and it peed like a race horse. I know folks go on their jihad about nozzles having a blued color or rainbow colors and those nozzles are toast. That is most likely true, but I found those which appeared to have been in a kiln, but they popped great. So, the moral of the story is pop test everything. You might be surprised. I even had the various self-professed know it alls on Peach Parts who claimed that stuck pintles ultimately mean not worth your time to tinker with, and I have soaked them in PB blaster or tranny fluid and acetone and guess what ... some of those worked great too once you got them cleaned.
I believe the key is getting all your injectors parts and internals super clean. That is your starting point. Once you get there, then it's hit or miss. You have to pop test them to see what's up. I have had NEW nozzles initially pee a little because they had some sort of metalic grit inside them from the factory. You need a lot of shims since your PSI is also crucial.
As for used nozzles, who knows until you test them. I test used nozzles in batches of 50. Sometimes I will end up with ZERO usable used nozzles. Sometimes I will end up with a whopping 5 or 6. Normally, out of 50, I will get 2 or maybe 3. Before I test them, they are super cleaned as cleaned parts is the KEY !
Sorry for the long winded commentary, but this is not intended to be the end all explanation or definitive guide to nozzles or injectors. I have just learned on other forums, especially PeachParts, there is a small contingent of folks who seem to want to disagree or debate every little topic, ranging from changing your oil to adding washer fluid to the resevoir bottle Or they simply know everything in the world about cars. Interestingly, most of those folks have about zero experience on the topic or they claim, back in the day I used to do this or that a half dozen times ... blah blah
Hope the above helps.
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Peachparts is full of askholes, look it up!
(04-21-2014, 09:22 AM)Greazzer Howdy ...
Easter had me tied up. My bad.
That pitting ultimately does not mean anything in regards to the health of the nozzle. I have seen them really pitted, and they popped just fine. I have seen them perfectly flat, and thought bingo found a nice, unused one and it peed like a race horse. I know folks go on their jihad about nozzles having a blued color or rainbow colors and those nozzles are toast. That is most likely true, but I found those which appeared to have been in a kiln, but they popped great. So, the moral of the story is pop test everything. You might be surprised. I even had the various self-professed know it alls on Peach Parts who claimed that stuck pintles ultimately mean not worth your time to tinker with, and I have soaked them in PB blaster or tranny fluid and acetone and guess what ... some of those worked great too once you got them cleaned.
I believe the key is getting all your injectors parts and internals super clean. That is your starting point. Once you get there, then it's hit or miss. You have to pop test them to see what's up. I have had NEW nozzles initially pee a little because they had some sort of metalic grit inside them from the factory. You need a lot of shims since your PSI is also crucial.
As for used nozzles, who knows until you test them. I test used nozzles in batches of 50. Sometimes I will end up with ZERO usable used nozzles. Sometimes I will end up with a whopping 5 or 6. Normally, out of 50, I will get 2 or maybe 3. Before I test them, they are super cleaned as cleaned parts is the KEY !
Sorry for the long winded commentary, but this is not intended to be the end all explanation or definitive guide to nozzles or injectors. I have just learned on other forums, especially PeachParts, there is a small contingent of folks who seem to want to disagree or debate every little topic, ranging from changing your oil to adding washer fluid to the resevoir bottle Or they simply know everything in the world about cars. Interestingly, most of those folks have about zero experience on the topic or they claim, back in the day I used to do this or that a half dozen times ... blah blah
Hope the above helps.
Austincarnut
04-21-2014, 09:32 PM #227Mark,
Peachparts is full of askholes, look it up!
(04-21-2014, 09:22 AM)Greazzer Howdy ...
Easter had me tied up. My bad.
That pitting ultimately does not mean anything in regards to the health of the nozzle. I have seen them really pitted, and they popped just fine. I have seen them perfectly flat, and thought bingo found a nice, unused one and it peed like a race horse. I know folks go on their jihad about nozzles having a blued color or rainbow colors and those nozzles are toast. That is most likely true, but I found those which appeared to have been in a kiln, but they popped great. So, the moral of the story is pop test everything. You might be surprised. I even had the various self-professed know it alls on Peach Parts who claimed that stuck pintles ultimately mean not worth your time to tinker with, and I have soaked them in PB blaster or tranny fluid and acetone and guess what ... some of those worked great too once you got them cleaned.
I believe the key is getting all your injectors parts and internals super clean. That is your starting point. Once you get there, then it's hit or miss. You have to pop test them to see what's up. I have had NEW nozzles initially pee a little because they had some sort of metalic grit inside them from the factory. You need a lot of shims since your PSI is also crucial.
As for used nozzles, who knows until you test them. I test used nozzles in batches of 50. Sometimes I will end up with ZERO usable used nozzles. Sometimes I will end up with a whopping 5 or 6. Normally, out of 50, I will get 2 or maybe 3. Before I test them, they are super cleaned as cleaned parts is the KEY !
Sorry for the long winded commentary, but this is not intended to be the end all explanation or definitive guide to nozzles or injectors. I have just learned on other forums, especially PeachParts, there is a small contingent of folks who seem to want to disagree or debate every little topic, ranging from changing your oil to adding washer fluid to the resevoir bottle Or they simply know everything in the world about cars. Interestingly, most of those folks have about zero experience on the topic or they claim, back in the day I used to do this or that a half dozen times ... blah blah
Hope the above helps.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
lgreeley83
04-21-2014, 11:02 PM #228Too funny. Mark you are right on point buddy.
" straighten up that star on the grill, assholes."
Those who can't, are promoted to management so they can better direct the overall vision of the knowledge assets.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
Those who can, do.
Those who can't, are promoted to management so they can better direct the overall vision of the knowledge assets.
1974 240D 617 turbo swap, W201 5-speed, in the works project
1983 240D 616 stock, DD
1989 Chevy Astro, 617 turbo swap, T5 5-speed, 4.56 diff, work van
also have a new weird crackling noise that has started happening. posted a thread in the engine subforum about it, crackling noise that happens under load in low/mid RPM ranges, hopefully will figure out what that's all about soon.
it's been real hot out here this week, and the car has been running pretty darn warm. having to drive 55-60mph in the slow lane in 95 degree heat, which is extra pleasant with no a/c. Coolant levels are good, recently flushed the system out (with water, no citrus), so I'm a little nervous. going to reinstall the radiator shroud that's been kicking around just in case that's actually a major factor here, and if things are still running hot I may try dieselgiant's method of drilling a few holes in the thermostat. Going to do an early oil change just to make me feel better that I'm not dealing with any headgasket issues.
also have a new weird crackling noise that has started happening. posted a thread in the engine subforum about it, crackling noise that happens under load in low/mid RPM ranges, hopefully will figure out what that's all about soon.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
I had to laugh a little about the car breaking down with your first date. My girlfriend thinks the old Merc is badass and she likes to drive it around. So if something breaks I can blame it on her, haha jk.
'82 300D -3" straight pipe, ALDA deleted, 3in1 glowshift gauge, HX30, egr-less manifold, A/W intercooler
'14 Ram 6.7l cummins -G56 handshaker, wishing it was deleted
(05-16-2014, 06:01 AM)stan it's been real hot out here this week, and the car has been running pretty darn warm. having to drive 55-60mph in the slow lane in 95 degree heat, which is extra pleasant with no a/c. Coolant levels are good, recently flushed the system out (with water, no citrus), so I'm a little nervous. going to reinstall the radiator shroud that's been kicking around just in case that's actually a major factor here, and if things are still running hot I may try dieselgiant's method of drilling a few holes in the thermostat. Going to do an early oil change just to make me feel better that I'm not dealing with any headgasket issues.
also have a new weird crackling noise that has started happening. posted a thread in the engine subforum about it, crackling noise that happens under load in low/mid RPM ranges, hopefully will figure out what that's all about soon.
let me know what your outcome is regarding the overheating. I also dont have a shroud on mine. Im pretty sure its that but before I spend $50 on one i would like to know how your turns out.
also flush with citrus. Order it offline. Be my guinea pig!
in case you need a new one.
http://www.amazon.com/OES-Genuine-W0133-...automotive
Purplecomputer
05-17-2014, 10:38 AM #232(05-16-2014, 06:01 AM)stan it's been real hot out here this week, and the car has been running pretty darn warm. having to drive 55-60mph in the slow lane in 95 degree heat, which is extra pleasant with no a/c. Coolant levels are good, recently flushed the system out (with water, no citrus), so I'm a little nervous. going to reinstall the radiator shroud that's been kicking around just in case that's actually a major factor here, and if things are still running hot I may try dieselgiant's method of drilling a few holes in the thermostat. Going to do an early oil change just to make me feel better that I'm not dealing with any headgasket issues.
also have a new weird crackling noise that has started happening. posted a thread in the engine subforum about it, crackling noise that happens under load in low/mid RPM ranges, hopefully will figure out what that's all about soon.
let me know what your outcome is regarding the overheating. I also dont have a shroud on mine. Im pretty sure its that but before I spend $50 on one i would like to know how your turns out.
also flush with citrus. Order it offline. Be my guinea pig!
in case you need a new one.
http://www.amazon.com/OES-Genuine-W0133-...automotive
1. cap off, cold engine. run until warm, leave cap off. fondle the upper hose until you feel it get HOT (t-stat opens), should take a few minutes to "seems like forever" depending on ambient temp, the upper hose SHOULD get quite warm slowly, but you should feel an OBVIOUS "switch" where the hose goes from "borderline uncomfortable" to "OMG!! THAT"S HOT!!" to the touch, observe flow.
you should see NO appreciable flow while the t-stat is closed, and when you feel it open, you should see the radiator RAPIDLY lose coolant, and hot coolant surge in rapidly to replace it. gulp and surge is fine. VERY active vortex is awesome. lazy pokey, or non-evident circulation is "results not so good".
rapid gulp, pokey lazy refill (cross flow rad), or hot water overflowing the cap (vert flow rad)? clogged core in the rad. overflow, however, can also SLOWLY happen in either vert or cross flow rads if the water pump isn't sucking at the cold tit. that will be evident by the thermostat NOT cycling (hose stay way hot), where with a clogged vert core, it will be a rapid displacement, and the t-stat will close (the gulp of cool water from the bottom tank cools the mass as it mixes, doesn't happen with restricted inlet).
IF you see flow before the t-stat is felt to open, you have a stuck open t-stat. if the flow is slow, or you just feel a "slow temp creep" in your upper hose t-stat observation (where it creeps up to "switch" temp with a mild, or unperceived "temp change" to touch, but you see the evidence of greatly increased flow), you have a "stuck cracked", or drilled t-stat. t-stat drilling is BAD, especially in hot weather. it reduces "residence time" in the rad. it increases cold tank temps. if the t-stat flange was supposed to be "swissed", M-B probably would have had the foresight to do so.
if you find no apparent reason for flow problems (stuck closed t-stat, kinked hoses, etc), the list of culprits is pretty narrow. monster crud in passages (always a possibility with auto's old enough to purchase beer), bad pump (ever seen an impeller eroded smoothy-shiny by an environment of iron oxide slurry? they don't do much, yet rarely leak due to lack of load, lol), or, in an idling, unpressurized test as above (which will NOT collapse the cold hose with suction, unless it's vacationing in sponge city) a hose or hoses have internally de-laminated (it forms nice little parachute choke valves, and is completely undetectable without tugging the hose off, and often defies visual inspection on removal... the only GOOD test if it suspected is running something like a tape measure down the hose, "feeling" for the tongues).
2. assuming you got flow, t-stat cycling, and you're sure your fan is moving in sync with the pulley (mark both use a strobe to check relationship), next we pop on the cap (still running, hot), and see how long it takes for the upper hose to get hard (pressurize the system). should take about 3-5 minutes (less is ok if you're in hades-like conditions, but no less than 2 minutes). too quick? head gasket or cracked CC, liner, etc. no pressure? bad cap. pressures up in 2 1/2 minutes on a hot afternoon? fandamtastic!! 2 1/2 minutes in wisconsin in january? probably not so good. 30 seconds anywhere this side of venus? WAY bad news. ok, pressured up nice? now for the eye hand coordination test: eyeball on lower rad hose, hand on upper rad hose, other hand on throttle linkage. when you feel the t-stat open, rapidly blip the throttle open and closed. watch the hose (lower rad). does it wiggle and jiggle? that's ok, so long as it isnt kinking doing so. does it undulate AT ALL (look like it's narrowing and expanding along it's length, or "snaking")? any undulation, it's probably collapsing internally from suction.
that's about it for cooling systems. if everything checks out, i'd say sludgy passages (that previously mentioned iron oxide slurry makes an awesome crust). such crust is a terrible heat transfer medium. "old school" marine low speed engines used to get flushed with kerosine as coolant (for moderately nasty blocks) or turpentine (for incredibly bad blocks). acids can be problematic, some react with the oxide and form a very heat inefficient "protective coating" that rivals parkerizing in it's ability to resist removal by just about any means short of abrasives. if others vouch for the citric acid, it's worthy of trying it out. just be prepared to have to replace the water pump afterwards, sludge crud often piers up seals past their prime
edit: almost forgot: look through the air passages (the fins) of your rad. cruddy? suitable cleaner for crud type, sprayed on generously form both sides. rinse with hose from the INSIDE (blast it out the same way it went in, rather than jamming it deeper). if the rad/chassis combo had a factory shroud, USE THE SHROUD. it greatly reduces fan pumping losses (without the shroud, tangential flow like your turbo comp wheel outlet, with, more linear). more efficient pumping equals more air flow equals better heat exchange for any give residence time in the tank
marshall13
05-17-2014, 04:46 PM #233not to be one of the above mentioned "know it alls", but did your lower hose have a spring in it? lot's of other 4 wheeled beasties collapse the hose with suction, cutting flow if they don't have a spring, even with "hoses that don't need it". of course, water pumps and radiators (as well as fan clutches) that are old enough to buy beer are good suspects as well.
1. cap off, cold engine. run until warm, leave cap off. fondle the upper hose until you feel it get HOT (t-stat opens), should take a few minutes to "seems like forever" depending on ambient temp, the upper hose SHOULD get quite warm slowly, but you should feel an OBVIOUS "switch" where the hose goes from "borderline uncomfortable" to "OMG!! THAT"S HOT!!" to the touch, observe flow.
you should see NO appreciable flow while the t-stat is closed, and when you feel it open, you should see the radiator RAPIDLY lose coolant, and hot coolant surge in rapidly to replace it. gulp and surge is fine. VERY active vortex is awesome. lazy pokey, or non-evident circulation is "results not so good".
rapid gulp, pokey lazy refill (cross flow rad), or hot water overflowing the cap (vert flow rad)? clogged core in the rad. overflow, however, can also SLOWLY happen in either vert or cross flow rads if the water pump isn't sucking at the cold tit. that will be evident by the thermostat NOT cycling (hose stay way hot), where with a clogged vert core, it will be a rapid displacement, and the t-stat will close (the gulp of cool water from the bottom tank cools the mass as it mixes, doesn't happen with restricted inlet).
IF you see flow before the t-stat is felt to open, you have a stuck open t-stat. if the flow is slow, or you just feel a "slow temp creep" in your upper hose t-stat observation (where it creeps up to "switch" temp with a mild, or unperceived "temp change" to touch, but you see the evidence of greatly increased flow), you have a "stuck cracked", or drilled t-stat. t-stat drilling is BAD, especially in hot weather. it reduces "residence time" in the rad. it increases cold tank temps. if the t-stat flange was supposed to be "swissed", M-B probably would have had the foresight to do so.
if you find no apparent reason for flow problems (stuck closed t-stat, kinked hoses, etc), the list of culprits is pretty narrow. monster crud in passages (always a possibility with auto's old enough to purchase beer), bad pump (ever seen an impeller eroded smoothy-shiny by an environment of iron oxide slurry? they don't do much, yet rarely leak due to lack of load, lol), or, in an idling, unpressurized test as above (which will NOT collapse the cold hose with suction, unless it's vacationing in sponge city) a hose or hoses have internally de-laminated (it forms nice little parachute choke valves, and is completely undetectable without tugging the hose off, and often defies visual inspection on removal... the only GOOD test if it suspected is running something like a tape measure down the hose, "feeling" for the tongues).
2. assuming you got flow, t-stat cycling, and you're sure your fan is moving in sync with the pulley (mark both use a strobe to check relationship), next we pop on the cap (still running, hot), and see how long it takes for the upper hose to get hard (pressurize the system). should take about 3-5 minutes (less is ok if you're in hades-like conditions, but no less than 2 minutes). too quick? head gasket or cracked CC, liner, etc. no pressure? bad cap. pressures up in 2 1/2 minutes on a hot afternoon? fandamtastic!! 2 1/2 minutes in wisconsin in january? probably not so good. 30 seconds anywhere this side of venus? WAY bad news. ok, pressured up nice? now for the eye hand coordination test: eyeball on lower rad hose, hand on upper rad hose, other hand on throttle linkage. when you feel the t-stat open, rapidly blip the throttle open and closed. watch the hose (lower rad). does it wiggle and jiggle? that's ok, so long as it isnt kinking doing so. does it undulate AT ALL (look like it's narrowing and expanding along it's length, or "snaking")? any undulation, it's probably collapsing internally from suction.
that's about it for cooling systems. if everything checks out, i'd say sludgy passages (that previously mentioned iron oxide slurry makes an awesome crust). such crust is a terrible heat transfer medium. "old school" marine low speed engines used to get flushed with kerosine as coolant (for moderately nasty blocks) or turpentine (for incredibly bad blocks). acids can be problematic, some react with the oxide and form a very heat inefficient "protective coating" that rivals parkerizing in it's ability to resist removal by just about any means short of abrasives. if others vouch for the citric acid, it's worthy of trying it out. just be prepared to have to replace the water pump afterwards, sludge crud often piers up seals past their prime
edit: almost forgot: look through the air passages (the fins) of your rad. cruddy? suitable cleaner for crud type, sprayed on generously form both sides. rinse with hose from the INSIDE (blast it out the same way it went in, rather than jamming it deeper). if the rad/chassis combo had a factory shroud, USE THE SHROUD. it greatly reduces fan pumping losses (without the shroud, tangential flow like your turbo comp wheel outlet, with, more linear). more efficient pumping equals more air flow equals better heat exchange for any give residence time in the tank
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=44&pcid=8
Stan, I just watched your video above.... Get some of this oil and it will probably fix the worn synchromesh. Amazing, but true (We use it in Skyline GT-R gearboxes in Japan - which are prone to worn synchros and the same problem!).
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=44&pcid=8
Purplecomputer
06-07-2014, 01:29 PM #236Did you ever get your overheating problem sorted? I just got a fan shroud and my temps dropped tremendously. Still need to flush though
unknown engine noise: http://youtu.be/fZDMPRdEDms here's the crackle noise I haven't figured out. listen at about 17 seconds
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
sassparilla_kid
07-01-2014, 10:46 PM #238Sounded almost like some crap banging around in there
-1982 300D Turbo, 280k miles, ALDA apparently maxxed, fram 8038, 12 lbs boost, non-egr manifolds, W/M injection, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 front rotors/calipers, 4-speed swap
In the works: A/W IC, adjust pump, turbo rebuild (w/60 trim comp wheel)
-1980 300SD, 110k, project car. Goal is to get it lookin' like it did on the showroom floor (body and interior wise, not necessarily under the hood )
-1974 240D, FRESH PAINT!!!!!!
driver side front side window decided to not work anymore, pulled the door card off, nothing visually obvious, but did find these parts sitting in the bottom of the door....which i think is probably bad. http://imgur.com/0VWKkyx
running temps are down now, after a coolant flush and installing a fan shroud (which had been absent up to this point), so that's a relief. no more heating up at speed, no more heating up while sitting in traffic!
i repaired the window regulator issue with some creative machining after the previous post in this thread, but now the window has just decided it doesnt want to go up more than half way. found that napa sells a replacement regulator for an okay price, so unless someone thinks they're bad regulators i'll probably go ahead and put a new one.
not much else to report, odometer is 251,255 miles as of today. passed the quarter million mile mark!
the offending voltage regulator
went to get fuel today, and car wouldn't start back up! i had noticed the gas gauge was reading nothing at all, so i should have realized that meant i had no voltage in the system. was able to push and bump start it and get to work, where i diagnosed it as a charging system issue. this makes sense as the battery light had flicked on a couple times recently. pulled the voltage regulator and as expected, the brushes are almost totally worn away. picked up a brand new battery as the one had been deeply discharged (was reading 6.6v at idle). waiting for autozone to get my regulator in and then should be installing it after work along with the new battery.
running temps are down now, after a coolant flush and installing a fan shroud (which had been absent up to this point), so that's a relief. no more heating up at speed, no more heating up while sitting in traffic!
i repaired the window regulator issue with some creative machining after the previous post in this thread, but now the window has just decided it doesnt want to go up more than half way. found that napa sells a replacement regulator for an okay price, so unless someone thinks they're bad regulators i'll probably go ahead and put a new one.
not much else to report, odometer is 251,255 miles as of today. passed the quarter million mile mark!
the offending voltage regulator
a while back someone rear ended me while i was stopped in the driveway of a gas station, breaking the left tail light and denting the corner. that stayed busted for a while, but just recently i picked up a new tail light lens and replaced it. wedged things back into shape enough to fit the light, but the trunk still sits a little oddly and there's still a dent. maybe a fix for the future to make it fully pretty.
a couple years ago i failed to latch the hood properly and it flew up at around 30mph, breaking the windshield. i got the windshield replaced but the hood now sits low at the rear edge and scrapes. i loosened the bolts and moved it forwards on the hinges but that did not resolve the issue. in doing that, i discovered that the hole in the body where the hinge center pin sits is rounded out much bigger, which is not a big deal but eh.
while doing the tail light i also replaced the broken speedometer cable, the grill (with a new part), the stolen hood ornament, and a traced down the intermittent issue with the right front turn signal (dodgy connector making blinker think bulb is dead, not fixed yet).
recent big trouble was the alternator bracket. the area where the adjuster nut sits snapped apart at freeway speed causing the battery light to come on and the car to start overheating as the belt no longer had tension. pulled over and used a hose clamp to cinch the adjuster nut against the remaining bracket with a hose clamp i found sitting on the fender inside the engine bay (idk, random crap!). this allowed me to use a leatherman to tension things back up and is currently holding things well until i have time to install the replacement bracket and adjuster bolt (new parts, probably this coming weekend).
in the interim a new issue has popped up - fuel and temp gauges dancing around which made me immediately suspect electrical. throwing a multimeter on the power while driving allowed me to see that it looks like the charging system is in a semi failed state, with voltage at freeway speeds falling under 13 at times, but getting back to 14.4 if the car is allowed to idle for a bit. turn signals or headlights cause voltage to droop around. my guess is voltage regulator brushes are on the way out, so i'll be ordering a new one now as a proactive measure even though i probably won't get a chance to pop the current one out for a few more days. will be interesting to see what the brushes look like since my last post here was about replacing that part in 2014.
the interior is sadly not looking as good as the early pictures in the thread. drivers seat base has split at several of the seams from me sitting in the car. i've got half an eye out for a new driver's seat but hitting junkyards has not been high on the list these days.
anyhow, over a decade since this car was brought back from being a rolling chassis and it still runs. the back injury sustained in transporting the engine home has become a distant memory, and i'm very pleased at what is probably my longest time owning a single car - even if i've also had several others in that time period.
doing some work and figured i should update the thread. crazy to see i've had this car over 10 years now.
a while back someone rear ended me while i was stopped in the driveway of a gas station, breaking the left tail light and denting the corner. that stayed busted for a while, but just recently i picked up a new tail light lens and replaced it. wedged things back into shape enough to fit the light, but the trunk still sits a little oddly and there's still a dent. maybe a fix for the future to make it fully pretty.
a couple years ago i failed to latch the hood properly and it flew up at around 30mph, breaking the windshield. i got the windshield replaced but the hood now sits low at the rear edge and scrapes. i loosened the bolts and moved it forwards on the hinges but that did not resolve the issue. in doing that, i discovered that the hole in the body where the hinge center pin sits is rounded out much bigger, which is not a big deal but eh.
while doing the tail light i also replaced the broken speedometer cable, the grill (with a new part), the stolen hood ornament, and a traced down the intermittent issue with the right front turn signal (dodgy connector making blinker think bulb is dead, not fixed yet).
recent big trouble was the alternator bracket. the area where the adjuster nut sits snapped apart at freeway speed causing the battery light to come on and the car to start overheating as the belt no longer had tension. pulled over and used a hose clamp to cinch the adjuster nut against the remaining bracket with a hose clamp i found sitting on the fender inside the engine bay (idk, random crap!). this allowed me to use a leatherman to tension things back up and is currently holding things well until i have time to install the replacement bracket and adjuster bolt (new parts, probably this coming weekend).
in the interim a new issue has popped up - fuel and temp gauges dancing around which made me immediately suspect electrical. throwing a multimeter on the power while driving allowed me to see that it looks like the charging system is in a semi failed state, with voltage at freeway speeds falling under 13 at times, but getting back to 14.4 if the car is allowed to idle for a bit. turn signals or headlights cause voltage to droop around. my guess is voltage regulator brushes are on the way out, so i'll be ordering a new one now as a proactive measure even though i probably won't get a chance to pop the current one out for a few more days. will be interesting to see what the brushes look like since my last post here was about replacing that part in 2014.
the interior is sadly not looking as good as the early pictures in the thread. drivers seat base has split at several of the seams from me sitting in the car. i've got half an eye out for a new driver's seat but hitting junkyards has not been high on the list these days.
anyhow, over a decade since this car was brought back from being a rolling chassis and it still runs. the back injury sustained in transporting the engine home has become a distant memory, and i'm very pleased at what is probably my longest time owning a single car - even if i've also had several others in that time period.
Did the car last longer than the post second date?
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
Thanks and congrats with the follow-up.
Did the car last longer than the post second date?
Ninth Year Anniversary with STD on 1-9-2020
visit: www.dieselfuelinjector.guru
Project 2018: Really get the car finished -- Turbo OM617 greater than 175 MPH goal.
RED W123 - left Germany as 240D in 1982. Full AMG body kit less rear apron, 2:65LSD, five speed Getrag 717.400, manual steering, read leather interior, manual brake conversion, electric water pump (EWP), and a bunch of other goodies ...
15 Guest(s)
15 Guest(s)