STD Tuning Suspension power steering pump

power steering pump

power steering pump

 
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oel_brenner
GT2256V

146
01-29-2010, 11:03 PM #1
so driving my W107 around, and ever since the engine swap
the steering had always felt "light" and sometimes "nervous"

and I chalked it up to several things, which I have systematically ruled out:

steering damper
control arm bushings
subframe bushings
tie rods
and all the other bits that wear out.

all the while not much improvement..

then I looked at the power steering pump
the unit attached to the OM603 is stamped 85bar
and the one that was on the gasser V8 that came out
was stamped 65bar.

I am sure there is a pressure adjustment somewhere, but doubt
I am going to be able to adjust it down that far.

I was thinking of teeing off the HP side, and leak off some pressure back to the return side with a valve/regulator and see if that helps...

something like this ?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1A042?Pid=search

thoughts ?

cars
1991 W126 350SDL turbodiesel
1987 W124 E300D turbodiesel
1987 W126 300SDL turbodiesel
1984 W107 SL300D turbodiesel
1974 W115 /8 300D diesel

trucks
2001 Dodge RAM 3500 4x4 Cummins turbodiesel

boats
1974 Uniflite "Salty Dog" powered by
2x OM617.951 Mercedes Benz 5Cyl turbodiesels
oel_brenner
01-29-2010, 11:03 PM #1

so driving my W107 around, and ever since the engine swap
the steering had always felt "light" and sometimes "nervous"

and I chalked it up to several things, which I have systematically ruled out:

steering damper
control arm bushings
subframe bushings
tie rods
and all the other bits that wear out.

all the while not much improvement..

then I looked at the power steering pump
the unit attached to the OM603 is stamped 85bar
and the one that was on the gasser V8 that came out
was stamped 65bar.

I am sure there is a pressure adjustment somewhere, but doubt
I am going to be able to adjust it down that far.

I was thinking of teeing off the HP side, and leak off some pressure back to the return side with a valve/regulator and see if that helps...

something like this ?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1A042?Pid=search

thoughts ?


cars
1991 W126 350SDL turbodiesel
1987 W124 E300D turbodiesel
1987 W126 300SDL turbodiesel
1984 W107 SL300D turbodiesel
1974 W115 /8 300D diesel

trucks
2001 Dodge RAM 3500 4x4 Cummins turbodiesel

boats
1974 Uniflite "Salty Dog" powered by
2x OM617.951 Mercedes Benz 5Cyl turbodiesels

SurfRodder
Jackass Extraordinaire

611
01-30-2010, 05:41 AM #2
8 GPM is probably a little excessive, even turned down that valve may be too 'big'... it wouldn't take much to bleed that much pressure off the pump. The things I'd consider are: will the pump be 'overworked' with this mod? Do you also plan on installing a gage to verify what it is set at? How does the load on the system change as the wheels are turned? (you can prolly get it dialed in, but when you add load to the pump it'll likely get thrown outta whack)

It would be fun to try out, but at ~60 bux may be a little excessive for a 'cheap' solution. Why not get the proper pump? Are the brackets different?

W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62
SurfRodder
01-30-2010, 05:41 AM #2

8 GPM is probably a little excessive, even turned down that valve may be too 'big'... it wouldn't take much to bleed that much pressure off the pump. The things I'd consider are: will the pump be 'overworked' with this mod? Do you also plan on installing a gage to verify what it is set at? How does the load on the system change as the wheels are turned? (you can prolly get it dialed in, but when you add load to the pump it'll likely get thrown outta whack)

It would be fun to try out, but at ~60 bux may be a little excessive for a 'cheap' solution. Why not get the proper pump? Are the brackets different?


W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62

ForcedInduction
Banned

3,628
01-30-2010, 06:57 AM #3
The manual says "c) If the pump does not attain the specified pressure, check volume control valve and pressure relief valve and replace, if required." This is for the 617, but I'd bet the 603 has something similar.
ForcedInduction
01-30-2010, 06:57 AM #3

The manual says "c) If the pump does not attain the specified pressure, check volume control valve and pressure relief valve and replace, if required." This is for the 617, but I'd bet the 603 has something similar.

oel_brenner
GT2256V

146
01-30-2010, 09:57 AM #4
Im probably going to put a gauge on first to understand the pressure profile
a) under 0 load
b) turning wheels
c) turning against the stop (full lock)

then mess around with the pump adjustment screw(s) and see what happens

and finally install a bleed valve of some sort ( they have smaller ones )

problems with the original pump:
completely different design (bracket etc.)
I would have to swap the pulley to multirib (assuming it would even fit without mods)
then make custom mounting bracket placing the original pulley
attached to the old pump in the correct position so I can run the stock length belt

( that last one is probably just anal.. but..)

cars
1991 W126 350SDL turbodiesel
1987 W124 E300D turbodiesel
1987 W126 300SDL turbodiesel
1984 W107 SL300D turbodiesel
1974 W115 /8 300D diesel

trucks
2001 Dodge RAM 3500 4x4 Cummins turbodiesel

boats
1974 Uniflite "Salty Dog" powered by
2x OM617.951 Mercedes Benz 5Cyl turbodiesels
oel_brenner
01-30-2010, 09:57 AM #4

Im probably going to put a gauge on first to understand the pressure profile
a) under 0 load
b) turning wheels
c) turning against the stop (full lock)

then mess around with the pump adjustment screw(s) and see what happens

and finally install a bleed valve of some sort ( they have smaller ones )

problems with the original pump:
completely different design (bracket etc.)
I would have to swap the pulley to multirib (assuming it would even fit without mods)
then make custom mounting bracket placing the original pulley
attached to the old pump in the correct position so I can run the stock length belt

( that last one is probably just anal.. but..)


cars
1991 W126 350SDL turbodiesel
1987 W124 E300D turbodiesel
1987 W126 300SDL turbodiesel
1984 W107 SL300D turbodiesel
1974 W115 /8 300D diesel

trucks
2001 Dodge RAM 3500 4x4 Cummins turbodiesel

boats
1974 Uniflite "Salty Dog" powered by
2x OM617.951 Mercedes Benz 5Cyl turbodiesels

SurfRodder
Jackass Extraordinaire

611
02-03-2010, 06:06 AM #5
well... sounds like you've got a good plan of attack...
I'd be willing to try to swap the pulleys(I'd bet they'd swap over), but having to get a bracket just right is not something I'd have the time for either...

W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62
SurfRodder
02-03-2010, 06:06 AM #5

well... sounds like you've got a good plan of attack...
I'd be willing to try to swap the pulleys(I'd bet they'd swap over), but having to get a bracket just right is not something I'd have the time for either...


W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **

S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **

OBK# 62

 
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