initial setting for injection pump
initial setting for injection pump
I removed the oil plug from the side of the pump and see a little punch mark that I have centered in the hole. Am I on the right track here?
If I am, where do I now set the engine timing at for install, 15 ATDC? I keep reading about 24 or 26 ATDC but the manual says 45 BTDC. There is where I am really confused.
Any help is much appreciated.
I have an 82' 300sd (which I just purcashed) that i had to remove the IP and was not able to set the engine at TDC first (long story). I am ready to re-install the pump and am not 100% clear on how to set the pump up for install. The repair manual is not real clear so I'm hoping for some pointers. I understand the drip method for fine tuning the timing, but need help with the initial setting for install.
I removed the oil plug from the side of the pump and see a little punch mark that I have centered in the hole. Am I on the right track here?
If I am, where do I now set the engine timing at for install, 15 ATDC? I keep reading about 24 or 26 ATDC but the manual says 45 BTDC. There is where I am really confused.
Any help is much appreciated.
(02-21-2010, 10:10 PM)GREASY_BEAST(02-21-2010, 09:56 PM)adfraser I have an 82' 300sd (which I just purcashed) that i had to remove the IP and was not able to set the engine at TDC first (long story). I am ready to re-install the pump and am not 100% clear on how to set the pump up for install. The repair manual is not real clear so I'm hoping for some pointers. I understand the drip method for fine tuning the timing, but need help with the initial setting for install.
I removed the oil plug from the side of the pump and see a little punch mark that I have centered in the hole. Am I on the right track here?
If I am, where do I now set the engine timing at for install, 15 ATDC? I keep reading about 24 or 26 ATDC but the manual says 45 BTDC. There is where I am really confused.
Any help is much appreciated.
No idea what the manual is talking about with 45BTDC. You want to set 24BTDC on the crank balancer (make sure the #1 exhaust and intake valves are closed by looking down through the oil fill hole at the cam lobes (the should be pointing up-ish, this will tell you that you are not 180° out of time). Then you want to make sure the marks on the input shaft of the IP are lined up with the ones on the housing. I believe the indent inside the hole you mentioned means the same thing, but check to be sure. Then you want to install the IP, being very careful to make sure you are not off by a tooth. Snug down the nuts, remove the delivery valve, install the drip tool, check the timing (crank the engine all the way around back to 24°BTDC, this means twice, because its a 4-stroke). Check the timing a few times this way, then adjust it to the correct value by loosening the 3 retaining nuts and moving the IP. If have to move it more than the slots give you freedom to, then you are off a by tooth. Move the IP to the full extreme in the appropriate direction, take the nuts off, pull it out, tilt it down (or up) to *NOT QUITE* the other extreme, re-install. Repeat the previous process to check your timing. If you are trying to do all this with the oil filter housing on the car, you are insane lol.
Thanks for the info, all I need now is the gaskets I ordered to show up and I am golden.
Thanks again.
(02-21-2010, 10:10 PM)GREASY_BEAST(02-21-2010, 09:56 PM)adfraser I have an 82' 300sd (which I just purcashed) that i had to remove the IP and was not able to set the engine at TDC first (long story). I am ready to re-install the pump and am not 100% clear on how to set the pump up for install. The repair manual is not real clear so I'm hoping for some pointers. I understand the drip method for fine tuning the timing, but need help with the initial setting for install.
I removed the oil plug from the side of the pump and see a little punch mark that I have centered in the hole. Am I on the right track here?
If I am, where do I now set the engine timing at for install, 15 ATDC? I keep reading about 24 or 26 ATDC but the manual says 45 BTDC. There is where I am really confused.
Any help is much appreciated.
No idea what the manual is talking about with 45BTDC. You want to set 24BTDC on the crank balancer (make sure the #1 exhaust and intake valves are closed by looking down through the oil fill hole at the cam lobes (the should be pointing up-ish, this will tell you that you are not 180° out of time). Then you want to make sure the marks on the input shaft of the IP are lined up with the ones on the housing. I believe the indent inside the hole you mentioned means the same thing, but check to be sure. Then you want to install the IP, being very careful to make sure you are not off by a tooth. Snug down the nuts, remove the delivery valve, install the drip tool, check the timing (crank the engine all the way around back to 24°BTDC, this means twice, because its a 4-stroke). Check the timing a few times this way, then adjust it to the correct value by loosening the 3 retaining nuts and moving the IP. If have to move it more than the slots give you freedom to, then you are off a by tooth. Move the IP to the full extreme in the appropriate direction, take the nuts off, pull it out, tilt it down (or up) to *NOT QUITE* the other extreme, re-install. Repeat the previous process to check your timing. If you are trying to do all this with the oil filter housing on the car, you are insane lol.
Thanks for the info, all I need now is the gaskets I ordered to show up and I am golden.
Thanks again.
--You already have your pump off the motor, so the first part you have already done.
Best way forward,--Because we really dont know exactly Where the pump is at the moment, in relation to the crank and cam...
Pull out the I.P.
I happen to have done exactly this today--For another reason (Full-load adjustment) and can describe how it went...
Set the engine crank to 25 degrees BTDC, Both Valves of Nos. 1 pot closed, cam lobes at the top, meaning its on its compression/firing stroke.
Pull out the I.P. There are three nuts at the front and one at the back. You May need to remove the bracket on the cyl.block at the rear mount.
With the pump out, the coupling may have stayed in the engine or may be on the pump. This is a short internally splined tube. If its in the engine, Fine, If not slide it from the pump shaft.
Look around the splined sides of the drive and you'll see where there is a spline 'missing'--Its not, just used as a setting point.
Clean the flange at the base where the shaft disappears into pump of oil and crud.
You Should see at the approx 10 'O-Clock position, holding the pump with outlets uppermost, a small dimple in the ally casting..
.(This is where you MAY find a Difference. I have a Euro 'M' Type Pump 'Cause I'm in the U.K, and I'm assuming you have a US MW Pump, but I believe you Should have that dimple on your flange too)
It has been confirmed by U.S. Member, Stevo, that the 'MW-Type' Pump Does have the Dimple at the flange, Thanks.....
Now, you'll need to turn the pump shaft to align the gap in the splines to line up with that dimple...(It doesnt matter which direction you turn the shaft, as long as the gap aligns with the dimple when the pump is re-fitted, it'll be good...)
Now, Re-insert the pump after re-fitting the coupling tube, if it came out with the pump, and fit two front nuts loosly.
Set up the low-pressure plastic fuel-pipes and prime up pump, Leave off the steel injector-lines at this point.
Remove the del.valve from nos. 1 outlet and attach 'drip-tube'.
(A drip-tube can be easily made from an old injector-line, Bend and cut to shape of a 'U' and cut the pipe at an angle)
Pump Primer and alter pump position to achieve 1 drip per second from the drip-tube...
Top of Pump away from engine will increase the flow, towards engine will slow or stop the flow. The trick is, getting the position of the pump right when the nuts are tightened up! --Sometimes you may get it bang on straight away, other times you may have to re-position pump once or twice...
You'll Have to pump the Primer all the time when timing the 1 sec. drips. Once primed up, you dont need to pump it hard, easy slow strokes is fine...
(takes approx 1 sec. to say the words 'One Thousand'--as a rough guide)
When you're happy with the drip-rate, turn the engine two full turns in correct direction of rotation round and back to 25 degrees BTDC. Check Drip-rate again...
(This is where you find that the drip-rate may have changed very slightly. Its VERY Important however when setting the crank to the 25 degree mark Not To Turn The Crank Backwards if you go too far and miss it--Go Round Two-Turns Again!--This is because it will give a false reading if you do turn it backwards due to backlash in the chain and other drive items to the I.P.)
(For reference, the Correct direction of Rotation is Clockwise, when standing in front of the car looking at engine, Crank and Cam...)
If OK, Turn crank C-W from the I.P. Timing Setting point to the 0 degree mark or TDC, and just re-check the Cam Timing Marks one last time...
Re-Fit everything, checking all bolts for correct torque and re-set valve clearances.
Fire her up, and go have a beer!
--Worth keeping in mind, that as all the diesel-hard lines are now empty of fuel as they have been off the motor, some period of cranking will be needed before it will actually fire up--30-40 seconds is not unusual--You may need a second shot of 'glow-plugs' after the initial cranking....
Alastair E
02-28-2010, 01:57 PM #4This is a copy of a post I made over on another Forum where a guy had a similar issue....
--You already have your pump off the motor, so the first part you have already done.
Best way forward,--Because we really dont know exactly Where the pump is at the moment, in relation to the crank and cam...
Pull out the I.P.
I happen to have done exactly this today--For another reason (Full-load adjustment) and can describe how it went...
Set the engine crank to 25 degrees BTDC, Both Valves of Nos. 1 pot closed, cam lobes at the top, meaning its on its compression/firing stroke.
Pull out the I.P. There are three nuts at the front and one at the back. You May need to remove the bracket on the cyl.block at the rear mount.
With the pump out, the coupling may have stayed in the engine or may be on the pump. This is a short internally splined tube. If its in the engine, Fine, If not slide it from the pump shaft.
Look around the splined sides of the drive and you'll see where there is a spline 'missing'--Its not, just used as a setting point.
Clean the flange at the base where the shaft disappears into pump of oil and crud.
You Should see at the approx 10 'O-Clock position, holding the pump with outlets uppermost, a small dimple in the ally casting..
.(This is where you MAY find a Difference. I have a Euro 'M' Type Pump 'Cause I'm in the U.K, and I'm assuming you have a US MW Pump, but I believe you Should have that dimple on your flange too)
It has been confirmed by U.S. Member, Stevo, that the 'MW-Type' Pump Does have the Dimple at the flange, Thanks.....
Now, you'll need to turn the pump shaft to align the gap in the splines to line up with that dimple...(It doesnt matter which direction you turn the shaft, as long as the gap aligns with the dimple when the pump is re-fitted, it'll be good...)
Now, Re-insert the pump after re-fitting the coupling tube, if it came out with the pump, and fit two front nuts loosly.
Set up the low-pressure plastic fuel-pipes and prime up pump, Leave off the steel injector-lines at this point.
Remove the del.valve from nos. 1 outlet and attach 'drip-tube'.
(A drip-tube can be easily made from an old injector-line, Bend and cut to shape of a 'U' and cut the pipe at an angle)
Pump Primer and alter pump position to achieve 1 drip per second from the drip-tube...
Top of Pump away from engine will increase the flow, towards engine will slow or stop the flow. The trick is, getting the position of the pump right when the nuts are tightened up! --Sometimes you may get it bang on straight away, other times you may have to re-position pump once or twice...
You'll Have to pump the Primer all the time when timing the 1 sec. drips. Once primed up, you dont need to pump it hard, easy slow strokes is fine...
(takes approx 1 sec. to say the words 'One Thousand'--as a rough guide)
When you're happy with the drip-rate, turn the engine two full turns in correct direction of rotation round and back to 25 degrees BTDC. Check Drip-rate again...
(This is where you find that the drip-rate may have changed very slightly. Its VERY Important however when setting the crank to the 25 degree mark Not To Turn The Crank Backwards if you go too far and miss it--Go Round Two-Turns Again!--This is because it will give a false reading if you do turn it backwards due to backlash in the chain and other drive items to the I.P.)
(For reference, the Correct direction of Rotation is Clockwise, when standing in front of the car looking at engine, Crank and Cam...)
If OK, Turn crank C-W from the I.P. Timing Setting point to the 0 degree mark or TDC, and just re-check the Cam Timing Marks one last time...
Re-Fit everything, checking all bolts for correct torque and re-set valve clearances.
Fire her up, and go have a beer!
--Worth keeping in mind, that as all the diesel-hard lines are now empty of fuel as they have been off the motor, some period of cranking will be needed before it will actually fire up--30-40 seconds is not unusual--You may need a second shot of 'glow-plugs' after the initial cranking....
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