Water/Methanol Injection to clean cylinders/rings
Water/Methanol Injection to clean cylinders/rings
Following a thread from an English forum where a guy claimed to have completely solved the problem, we did the following.
- Installed a crankcase pressure gauge and discovered that pressure was minimal up to ~3500rpm, at which point the needle shot straight through the roof.
- Installed a very basic water injection system running off of the windshield washer bottle and proceeded to run about a gallon of water/methanol mix through the engine at highway speeds.
And thats it. The gauge shows no increase in pressure and no more exploding dipstick.
The guy in England got the the idea from some Australians who suggested that the water vapor could help break apart any buildup of crud inside the engine. And, from a preliminary standpoint, it worked for both my dad's car, and the English car.
I'm planning to install a boost regulated water/methanol injection kit in my own E300 as a cautionary measure (and for the extra oomph
)Seems to be a very cheap solution to a potentially very expensive problem. Thought I would share with you all.
My dad's '99 E300 TurboDiesel had recently been pressuring the crankcase, presumably due to blow-by from the rings not sealing. The problem actually became so bad that the dipstick was blown loose and oil was spraying throughout the engine compartment. Through a little online research we discovered that several others E300 drivers had this problem, all of whom were running WVO.
Following a thread from an English forum where a guy claimed to have completely solved the problem, we did the following.
- Installed a crankcase pressure gauge and discovered that pressure was minimal up to ~3500rpm, at which point the needle shot straight through the roof.
- Installed a very basic water injection system running off of the windshield washer bottle and proceeded to run about a gallon of water/methanol mix through the engine at highway speeds.
And thats it. The gauge shows no increase in pressure and no more exploding dipstick.
The guy in England got the the idea from some Australians who suggested that the water vapor could help break apart any buildup of crud inside the engine. And, from a preliminary standpoint, it worked for both my dad's car, and the English car.
I'm planning to install a boost regulated water/methanol injection kit in my own E300 as a cautionary measure (and for the extra oomph )
Seems to be a very cheap solution to a potentially very expensive problem. Thought I would share with you all.
Methanol's autoignition temperature is only 878*f, when it comes in contact with the glowing ball inside the prechamber it will preignite (detonate), especially with mixtures above 50%.
In the end, you've pointed out the real issue here.
Quote:all of whom were running WVOConverting to BioDiesel will solve the stuck rings problem completely.
ForcedInduction
12-04-2009, 07:07 PM
#2
W/M injection is great for cleaning, its been done on carbon clogged g@ssers for decades. However, the power increase on IDI engines is not even close to what the DI pickups see using the same amounts. 300cc/min on my engine only produced 2hp at the wheels with a 50/50 mix and 0hp with pure water.
Methanol's autoignition temperature is only 878*f, when it comes in contact with the glowing ball inside the prechamber it will preignite (detonate), especially with mixtures above 50%.
In the end, you've pointed out the real issue here.
Quote:all of whom were running WVOConverting to BioDiesel will solve the stuck rings problem completely.
I have no intent in hiding the fact that this issue was caused by the use of WVO. It seems that the E300's have a tendency to do so when burning grease, possibly due to lower operating temperatures or angle of injection.
This leaves two options, as you so thoughtfully pointed out.
1. stop using WVO all together (your suggestion)
- or -
2. solve the issue and learn from it, gaining a few HP in the process and also reducing EGT's for the next stage of my tuning.
In case you are curious, I'm going to go with option number two. AND, I'll let other know how it all works out so that they can make their own decision.
2HP is 2HP I don't have now
I have no intent in hiding the fact that this issue was caused by the use of WVO. It seems that the E300's have a tendency to do so when burning grease, possibly due to lower operating temperatures or angle of injection.
This leaves two options, as you so thoughtfully pointed out.
1. stop using WVO all together (your suggestion)
- or -
2. solve the issue and learn from it, gaining a few HP in the process and also reducing EGT's for the next stage of my tuning.
In case you are curious, I'm going to go with option number two. AND, I'll let other know how it all works out so that they can make their own decision.
(12-04-2009, 07:27 PM)mtnewguy 2. solve the issue and learn from it
WI isn't solving the issue, its hiding the cause.
ForcedInduction
12-04-2009, 11:02 PM
#4
(12-04-2009, 07:27 PM)mtnewguy 2. solve the issue and learn from it
WI isn't solving the issue, its hiding the cause.
Alastair E
03-14-2010, 03:10 PM #5Yup, the English guy you were thinking of was on our goatindustires Veg-oil diesel forum. There have been a few more success stories added since then....
(03-14-2010, 03:10 PM)Alastair E There have been a few more success stories added since then....Anecdotes don't change scientific facts.
ForcedInduction
03-14-2010, 06:20 PM
#6
(03-14-2010, 03:10 PM)Alastair E There have been a few more success stories added since then....Anecdotes don't change scientific facts.
(03-14-2010, 06:20 PM)ForcedInduction(03-14-2010, 03:10 PM)Alastair E There have been a few more success stories added since then....Anecdotes don't change scientific facts.
W-E-LL....
May be 'anecdotal' as you say, But when someone comes along and does summit, then along come a few more saying the same thing, with positive outcomes, it becomes less anecdotal every time, IMHO.....
Ive never been foolish enough to stuff up any engines by running veggy Incorrectly, so Ive not had to try this procedure myself.....
We all know the general attitude to veggy oil is in the Negartive,--But at least there is a remedy for a poorly converted, stuck-ring engine out there, that Doesnt involve replacing the whole engine or tearing down the stuffed up one, and it costs practically nothing to do....
--Put it this way, I wouldnt turn down a nice car with a veg-stuffed engine offered to me cheap, when there is a possible remedy for the issue that will clean up the problem of stuck rings--Regardless of what fuel it was subsequently used on!
Alastair E
03-15-2010, 08:04 AM #7(03-14-2010, 06:20 PM)ForcedInduction(03-14-2010, 03:10 PM)Alastair E There have been a few more success stories added since then....Anecdotes don't change scientific facts.
W-E-LL....
May be 'anecdotal' as you say, But when someone comes along and does summit, then along come a few more saying the same thing, with positive outcomes, it becomes less anecdotal every time, IMHO.....
Ive never been foolish enough to stuff up any engines by running veggy Incorrectly, so Ive not had to try this procedure myself.....
We all know the general attitude to veggy oil is in the Negartive,--But at least there is a remedy for a poorly converted, stuck-ring engine out there, that Doesnt involve replacing the whole engine or tearing down the stuffed up one, and it costs practically nothing to do....
--Put it this way, I wouldnt turn down a nice car with a veg-stuffed engine offered to me cheap, when there is a possible remedy for the issue that will clean up the problem of stuck rings--Regardless of what fuel it was subsequently used on!
(03-15-2010, 08:04 AM)Alastair E May be 'anecdotal' as you say, But when someone comes along and does summit, then along come a few more saying the same thing, with positive outcomes, it becomes less anecdotal every time, IMHO.....Ah, then why don't you have an HHO generator, a Tornado intake swirlier, a fuel line super magnet, a Lovecraft single tank conversion and add Slick50 to your engine oil? There are many many people that claim great results from them despite science thoroughly disproving their effectiveness.
ForcedInduction
03-15-2010, 11:08 AM
#8
(03-15-2010, 08:04 AM)Alastair E May be 'anecdotal' as you say, But when someone comes along and does summit, then along come a few more saying the same thing, with positive outcomes, it becomes less anecdotal every time, IMHO.....Ah, then why don't you have an HHO generator, a Tornado intake swirlier, a fuel line super magnet, a Lovecraft single tank conversion and add Slick50 to your engine oil? There are many many people that claim great results from them despite science thoroughly disproving their effectiveness.
(03-15-2010, 11:08 AM)ForcedInduction(03-15-2010, 08:04 AM)Alastair E May be 'anecdotal' as you say, But when someone comes along and does summit, then along come a few more saying the same thing, with positive outcomes, it becomes less anecdotal every time, IMHO.....Ah, then why don't you have an HHO generator, a Tornado intake swirlier, a fuel line super magnet, a Lovecraft single tank conversion and add Slick50 to your engine oil? There are many many people that claim great results from them despite science thoroughly disproving their effectiveness.
Ho, Please!
--Credit me with a little more intellegence than That--I am 48 years old, and didnt get off the last bananna boat!! The items listed in your post are known to be cons!
--You're a Motor Technician as Profession I seem to recall...?
--Explain this-
I'm sure you've replaced Blown Head-gaskets on various engines during your normal work, where the gasket has blown into the Water-Gallery of the engine causing pressurisation of the cooling-system...?
--Ever noticed, that on the affected Cylinder, there is either no carbon deposits or much less than the unaffected cylinders....?
--This is particularly noticable on Gasser engines.....
I personally have seen this phenomenon on a number of occasions, its more noticable on engines that have been run/used for a few miles with the blown gasket....
(If like me, you had owned as many Hillman Imps as I have and had to change H.G. due to warped blocks, you too would have seen this too!)
--That'll be the unintentional, Water Injection!
Alastair E
03-15-2010, 02:03 PM #9(03-15-2010, 11:08 AM)ForcedInduction(03-15-2010, 08:04 AM)Alastair E May be 'anecdotal' as you say, But when someone comes along and does summit, then along come a few more saying the same thing, with positive outcomes, it becomes less anecdotal every time, IMHO.....Ah, then why don't you have an HHO generator, a Tornado intake swirlier, a fuel line super magnet, a Lovecraft single tank conversion and add Slick50 to your engine oil? There are many many people that claim great results from them despite science thoroughly disproving their effectiveness.
Ho, Please!
--Credit me with a little more intellegence than That--I am 48 years old, and didnt get off the last bananna boat!! The items listed in your post are known to be cons!
--You're a Motor Technician as Profession I seem to recall...?
--Explain this-
I'm sure you've replaced Blown Head-gaskets on various engines during your normal work, where the gasket has blown into the Water-Gallery of the engine causing pressurisation of the cooling-system...?
--Ever noticed, that on the affected Cylinder, there is either no carbon deposits or much less than the unaffected cylinders....?
--This is particularly noticable on Gasser engines.....
I personally have seen this phenomenon on a number of occasions, its more noticable on engines that have been run/used for a few miles with the blown gasket....
(If like me, you had owned as many Hillman Imps as I have and had to change H.G. due to warped blocks, you too would have seen this too!)
--That'll be the unintentional, Water Injection!
(03-15-2010, 02:03 PM)Alastair E --Explain this-I am not, and have never, disputed water injection's cleaning properties. I have seen the exact situation you listed on several gas and diesel engines, as well as a hydrolock bent rod on a Duratec 23.
I'm sure you've replaced Blown Head-gaskets on various engines during your normal work, where the gasket has blown into the Water-Gallery of the engine causing pressurisation of the cooling-system...?
--Ever noticed, that on the affected Cylinder, there is either no carbon deposits or much less than the unaffected cylinders....?
--This is particularly noticable on Gasser engines....
My point earlier was that using it to clean up after VO is a band-aid/mask to the problem, not a solution.
Like anecdotes by purchasers of HHO devices and intake swirlers, people using WI to clean up after their VO and raving about it as "a solution" usually don't understand whats actually happening to their engine. Yes the crud is removed, however, they aren't doing anything to resolve the problem of whats causing the buildup in the first place, engine oil contamination, injection system damage or the high emissions caused by poor VO combustion (the "french fry smell").
EDIT: Actually, you've kind of inspired me to reinstall my WI system on the 240 tomorrow.
ForcedInduction
03-15-2010, 07:33 PM
#10
(03-15-2010, 02:03 PM)Alastair E --Explain this-I am not, and have never, disputed water injection's cleaning properties. I have seen the exact situation you listed on several gas and diesel engines, as well as a hydrolock bent rod on a Duratec 23.
I'm sure you've replaced Blown Head-gaskets on various engines during your normal work, where the gasket has blown into the Water-Gallery of the engine causing pressurisation of the cooling-system...?
--Ever noticed, that on the affected Cylinder, there is either no carbon deposits or much less than the unaffected cylinders....?
--This is particularly noticable on Gasser engines....
My point earlier was that using it to clean up after VO is a band-aid/mask to the problem, not a solution.
Like anecdotes by purchasers of HHO devices and intake swirlers, people using WI to clean up after their VO and raving about it as "a solution" usually don't understand whats actually happening to their engine. Yes the crud is removed, however, they aren't doing anything to resolve the problem of whats causing the buildup in the first place, engine oil contamination, injection system damage or the high emissions caused by poor VO combustion (the "french fry smell").
EDIT: Actually, you've kind of inspired me to reinstall my WI system on the 240 tomorrow.
Currently its set to come on at 8psi. I used my old BeCooling 300cc/min system in a somewhat different configuration than before.
ForcedInduction
03-16-2010, 12:59 PM
#11
...and here it is.
Currently its set to come on at 8psi. I used my old BeCooling 300cc/min system in a somewhat different configuration than before.
(03-16-2010, 12:59 PM)ForcedInduction ...and here it is.
Currently its set to come on at 8psi. I used my old BeCooling 300cc/min system in a somewhat different configuration than before.
Nice solid looking installation....Makes a pleasant change from the usual sorts of things we see!
Wish my cam-box was that clean!
Outta curiosity, does the WI have any cleaning effect on the crud that builds up on the Back of Inlet-Valve heads...?
--As I say, Ive not needed to use WI for any reasons, but be interesting to know if it does clean that crud, --Be a nice easy way of cleaning the after-effects of EGR!
--Hate EGR!
So, looks like you got a Cali wagon engine in your 240D...?
And, Whats that pipe fitted at the end of the cam-box, in line with the sprocket-bulge on the Rt hand side,--Never seen a pipe there on any M.B. engine here in UK...?
Ive been thinking of rigging up a temporary WI system to give my old wagon a bit of a clean out, But it runs just so sweet now after near 3K on Proper BioDiesel, and two oil changes and a valve-job-- I doubt there's much crud in there....
Alastair E
03-17-2010, 04:19 PM #12(03-16-2010, 12:59 PM)ForcedInduction ...and here it is.
Currently its set to come on at 8psi. I used my old BeCooling 300cc/min system in a somewhat different configuration than before.
Nice solid looking installation....Makes a pleasant change from the usual sorts of things we see!
Wish my cam-box was that clean!
Outta curiosity, does the WI have any cleaning effect on the crud that builds up on the Back of Inlet-Valve heads...?
--As I say, Ive not needed to use WI for any reasons, but be interesting to know if it does clean that crud, --Be a nice easy way of cleaning the after-effects of EGR!
--Hate EGR!
So, looks like you got a Cali wagon engine in your 240D...?
And, Whats that pipe fitted at the end of the cam-box, in line with the sprocket-bulge on the Rt hand side,--Never seen a pipe there on any M.B. engine here in UK...?
Ive been thinking of rigging up a temporary WI system to give my old wagon a bit of a clean out, But it runs just so sweet now after near 3K on Proper BioDiesel, and two oil changes and a valve-job-- I doubt there's much crud in there....
(03-17-2010, 04:19 PM)Alastair E Outta curiosity, does the WI have any cleaning effect on the crud that builds up on the Back of Inlet-Valve heads...?It should have some effect. Above 10psi the compressed air is over water's boiling temperature (not sure about W/M boiling temperature) and the airflow at the valves should give it some good velocity.
Quote:--As I say, Ive not needed to use WI for any reasons, but be interesting to know if it does clean that crud, --Be a nice easy way of cleaning the after-effects of EGR!I haven't had an EGR for 8 years.
What crud hasn't already fallen through from the natural forces of the engine is pretty well baked on.Quote:So, looks like you got a Cali wagon engine in your 240D...?It was an Okie wagon engine. Swapped it over in 2005 when I had to choose to sell the 240's engineless body or swap engines from my rusty floor wagon.
Quote:And, Whats that pipe fitted at the end of the cam-box, in line with the sprocket-bulge on the Rt hand side,--Never seen a pipe there on any M.B. engine here in UK...?Thats a bypass oil filter and the hose to the valvecover is its return/drain line. I use an oil filter with no bypass section to eliminate the cotton crap MB chose and added an external 2micron Amsoil EaBP90 filter.
![[Image: eabp90_bypass.jpg]](http://www.deluxeoil.com/eabp90_bypass.jpg)
ForcedInduction
03-17-2010, 05:52 PM
#13
(03-17-2010, 04:19 PM)Alastair E Outta curiosity, does the WI have any cleaning effect on the crud that builds up on the Back of Inlet-Valve heads...?It should have some effect. Above 10psi the compressed air is over water's boiling temperature (not sure about W/M boiling temperature) and the airflow at the valves should give it some good velocity.
Quote:--As I say, Ive not needed to use WI for any reasons, but be interesting to know if it does clean that crud, --Be a nice easy way of cleaning the after-effects of EGR!I haven't had an EGR for 8 years.
What crud hasn't already fallen through from the natural forces of the engine is pretty well baked on.Quote:So, looks like you got a Cali wagon engine in your 240D...?It was an Okie wagon engine. Swapped it over in 2005 when I had to choose to sell the 240's engineless body or swap engines from my rusty floor wagon.
Quote:And, Whats that pipe fitted at the end of the cam-box, in line with the sprocket-bulge on the Rt hand side,--Never seen a pipe there on any M.B. engine here in UK...?Thats a bypass oil filter and the hose to the valvecover is its return/drain line. I use an oil filter with no bypass section to eliminate the cotton crap MB chose and added an external 2micron Amsoil EaBP90 filter.
(03-17-2010, 05:52 PM)ForcedInduction(03-17-2010, 04:19 PM)Alastair E Outta curiosity, does the WI have any cleaning effect on the crud that builds up on the Back of Inlet-Valve heads...?It should have some effect. Above 10psi the compressed air is over water's boiling temperature (not sure about W/M boiling temperature) and the airflow at the valves should give it some good velocity.
Quote:--As I say, Ive not needed to use WI for any reasons, but be interesting to know if it does clean that crud, --Be a nice easy way of cleaning the after-effects of EGR!I haven't had an EGR for 8 years.
Quote:So, looks like you got a Cali wagon engine in your 240D...?It was an Okie wagon engine. Swapped it over in 2005 when I had to choose to sell the 240's engineless body or swap engines from my rusty floor wagon.
Quote:And, Whats that pipe fitted at the end of the cam-box, in line with the sprocket-bulge on the Rt hand side,--Never seen a pipe there on any M.B. engine here in UK...?Thats a bypass oil filter and the hose to the valvecover is its return/drain line. I use an oil filter with no bypass section to eliminate the cotton crap MB chose and added an external 2micron Amsoil EaBP90 filter.
Ah, Right....
Thats a pretty fair idea, and you're giving the chain a little extra clean lube to the bargain!
Alastair E
03-18-2010, 07:33 AM #14(03-17-2010, 05:52 PM)ForcedInduction(03-17-2010, 04:19 PM)Alastair E Outta curiosity, does the WI have any cleaning effect on the crud that builds up on the Back of Inlet-Valve heads...?It should have some effect. Above 10psi the compressed air is over water's boiling temperature (not sure about W/M boiling temperature) and the airflow at the valves should give it some good velocity.
Quote:--As I say, Ive not needed to use WI for any reasons, but be interesting to know if it does clean that crud, --Be a nice easy way of cleaning the after-effects of EGR!I haven't had an EGR for 8 years.
Quote:So, looks like you got a Cali wagon engine in your 240D...?It was an Okie wagon engine. Swapped it over in 2005 when I had to choose to sell the 240's engineless body or swap engines from my rusty floor wagon.
Quote:And, Whats that pipe fitted at the end of the cam-box, in line with the sprocket-bulge on the Rt hand side,--Never seen a pipe there on any M.B. engine here in UK...?Thats a bypass oil filter and the hose to the valvecover is its return/drain line. I use an oil filter with no bypass section to eliminate the cotton crap MB chose and added an external 2micron Amsoil EaBP90 filter.
Ah, Right....
Thats a pretty fair idea, and you're giving the chain a little extra clean lube to the bargain!
Still only a 2hp boost and still no change in EGTs when active. The engine does sound a little smoother, but the knock has not changed at all (as expected).
Fuel economy is 29-30mpg, mostly highway, though there was quite a bit of 3rd gear 40mph driving in the mountains.
ForcedInduction
03-28-2010, 11:44 PM
#15
1069 miles, 3 gallons of Peak (Wal-Mart, 33% methanol) -20 washer fluid consumed, 356.3mpg.
Still only a 2hp boost and still no change in EGTs when active. The engine does sound a little smoother, but the knock has not changed at all (as expected).
Fuel economy is 29-30mpg, mostly highway, though there was quite a bit of 3rd gear 40mph driving in the mountains.
As anecdotal as it may be considered, there have still been no issues with sticky rings since the water injection was installed. The pump did stop working for a short period which eventually led to the high crankcase pressure returning, but that went away once the pump was working again.
ROLLGUY
06-20-2010, 11:50 PM #17I am new to this forum, but not new to WVO and WI. I have almost 100,000 WVO miles on my 190D (had 185.XXX when I got it, 286.XXX now) and Water Injection. About 6,000 miles ago, it blew a head gasket. After removing the head, I noticed that the combustion chambers and around the valves were VERY clean. I have seen more carbon inside Gas engines that I have torn down. The carbon that was there just wiped off with a rag. The cyl that had the leaky gasket was just slightly cleaner. I am a big fan of WI for ANY fuel, but especially for WVO. I have many thousands of miles on the other cars running VEG as well. I have my washer pump (replaced my single pump res for a dual one) switched with -12 volts to ground at WOT, and +12 through a lighted switch. That way, I can know when it is injecting by the light on the switch illuminating. I can also turn off the pump with the same switch. I run distilled water so the jets (4 facing up into the intake runners inside the air cleaner box) dont get clogged. Running methanol in a non-turbo does nothing for horsepower, but drain your wallet. I am still working on WI for the turbo cars. Thinking about 5 separate nozzles drilled and tapped into the manifold. I have an E300 as well, and am exploring different WI options.
ForcedInduction
06-21-2010, 05:05 AM
#18
Another important point is to make sure your engine oil thermostat is getting the oil up to its 230*f operating temperature (203*f pre-1980). The oil needs to get hot to boil off any water that makes it past the rings during compression.
Today I got my water tank(s). They are coolant overflow tanks from mid-90's Chevy/GMC pickups, hold a hair over a gallon each and have a 3/8" nipple on the right bottom edge. I'll just use a Y fitting to connect their capacities.
I've had a spare shurflow pump for quite some time. I'm not positive it works, but if its DOA I can swap for the one currently in my 240. It will be mounted in the spare tire well near the battery. An accumulator will be added sometime after the races, at this point I'm focusing on getting the system operational ASAP.
All thats left to get are the nozzles, pressure switches, solenoids and tubing.
1gph=63cc/min
ForcedInduction
06-22-2010, 01:56 PM
#19
ATS Diesels On The Mountain is the first weekend of August, I need to get cranking if I want to make a fully functional WI system for the races!
Today I got my water tank(s). They are coolant overflow tanks from mid-90's Chevy/GMC pickups, hold a hair over a gallon each and have a 3/8" nipple on the right bottom edge. I'll just use a Y fitting to connect their capacities.
I've had a spare shurflow pump for quite some time. I'm not positive it works, but if its DOA I can swap for the one currently in my 240. It will be mounted in the spare tire well near the battery. An accumulator will be added sometime after the races, at this point I'm focusing on getting the system operational ASAP.
All thats left to get are the nozzles, pressure switches, solenoids and tubing.
1gph=63cc/min
And i agree, with all the work people put in to make SVO work, they could have just made biodiesel.
Drizzy
11-07-2010, 11:19 AM #20Hey Forced, do you have any walk through on how you made your WI system? What sort of pump, nozzles, and how you went about setting it so it only is on at 8psi. Sounds like a pretty sweet setup.
And i agree, with all the work people put in to make SVO work, they could have just made biodiesel.
ForcedInduction
11-07-2010, 11:34 AM
#21
Here you go: http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/port...-1504.html
Even though the injectors are tucked away in the prechamber it definitely helps keep them clean and therefore the engine running smooth and quiet. It's a fantastic discovery for any engine, especially a more or less unmodified one running WVO.
The kits are often fitted to gassers like subaru imprezzas running high boost, so they come up secondhand on ebay. I got mine for £80. The only thing missing was the actual nozzle and nozzle holder/ pipe mounting.
You can build your own using an M14 oil drain plug with 1/8 NPT hole down the middle designed for an aftermarket oil temp sensor.
The M14 thread is nice and big and allows you to screw it into ABS plastic intake pipes (after drilling and tapping). You then screw the nozzle into that.
To hook the nozzle up to your 1/4" nylon pipe buy a stainless steel female barrel nipple/ bush type hydraulic fitting (1/8" NPT all the way through.). Then screw your Pushfit fitting into the other end.
The bush I got unfortunately had a restriction in the middle and wasn't 1/8" all the way through but this was easily sorted by my mates lathe.
charlysays
02-26-2016, 02:22 PM #22I did try making biodiesel... I have a GL Eco processor but had an issue mid-batch with the venturi not working for no apparent reason and ended up with some mild methanol poisoning after a load of methanol got vapourised and vented all over my head. That kinda put me off. Back on topic.... The only reason my OM605 turbo didn't die a horrible runaway/ blowby death 60,000 miles ago was because I fitted a boost activated water injection kit.
Even though the injectors are tucked away in the prechamber it definitely helps keep them clean and therefore the engine running smooth and quiet. It's a fantastic discovery for any engine, especially a more or less unmodified one running WVO.
The kits are often fitted to gassers like subaru imprezzas running high boost, so they come up secondhand on ebay. I got mine for £80. The only thing missing was the actual nozzle and nozzle holder/ pipe mounting.
You can build your own using an M14 oil drain plug with 1/8 NPT hole down the middle designed for an aftermarket oil temp sensor.
The M14 thread is nice and big and allows you to screw it into ABS plastic intake pipes (after drilling and tapping). You then screw the nozzle into that.
To hook the nozzle up to your 1/4" nylon pipe buy a stainless steel female barrel nipple/ bush type hydraulic fitting (1/8" NPT all the way through.). Then screw your Pushfit fitting into the other end.
The bush I got unfortunately had a restriction in the middle and wasn't 1/8" all the way through but this was easily sorted by my mates lathe.
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