Need Assistance with Alternator.
Need Assistance with Alternator.
05-27-2010, 12:05 PM
#1
I am working on an 1987 W201 190DT. I removed the old alternator and replaced it with a 120A alt from another mercedes. I think it was from a w124. All is good on the installation until I went to match up the serpentine belt. The new 120A alt sits back about 6mm from base line so it does not match up. So now I am stuck. Not sure what to do or which way I can go in order to keep the 120A alt.
I have done a number of searches and come across a few alt upgrades but I dont remember seeing anything that went over the mismatched pulley.
I am not having any luck on other mercedes forums. I know I am new here but I could really use some help.
I am working on an 1987 W201 190DT. I removed the old alternator and replaced it with a 120A alt from another mercedes. I think it was from a w124. All is good on the installation until I went to match up the serpentine belt. The new 120A alt sits back about 6mm from base line so it does not match up. So now I am stuck. Not sure what to do or which way I can go in order to keep the 120A alt.
I have done a number of searches and come across a few alt upgrades but I dont remember seeing anything that went over the mismatched pulley.
05-27-2010, 01:48 PM
#3
(05-27-2010, 01:36 PM)kmaser It may be possible to swap pulleys with your old alternator
I thought about trying that just to get things going. And even with the reduction in power due to the larger diameter pulley it would still put out more power then the original alternator. The diesel doesnt use much power to run anyway. No ignition system to support.
(05-27-2010, 01:36 PM)kmaser It may be possible to swap pulleys with your old alternator
I thought about trying that just to get things going. And even with the reduction in power due to the larger diameter pulley it would still put out more power then the original alternator. The diesel doesnt use much power to run anyway. No ignition system to support.
05-27-2010, 01:55 PM
#4
(05-27-2010, 01:48 PM)Therapy(05-27-2010, 01:36 PM)kmaser It may be possible to swap pulleys with your old alternator
I thought about trying that just to get things going. And even with the reduction in power due to the larger diameter pulley it would still put out more power then the original alternator. The diesel doesnt use much power to run anyway. No ignition system to support.
You could space out the pulley with some shims to match up to the other pulleys.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
05-27-2010, 01:55 PM #4(05-27-2010, 01:48 PM)Therapy(05-27-2010, 01:36 PM)kmaser It may be possible to swap pulleys with your old alternator
I thought about trying that just to get things going. And even with the reduction in power due to the larger diameter pulley it would still put out more power then the original alternator. The diesel doesnt use much power to run anyway. No ignition system to support.
You could space out the pulley with some shims to match up to the other pulleys.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
05-28-2010, 11:58 AM
#5
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
SurfRodder
05-28-2010, 11:58 AM #5They make spacer washers that fit around the shaft and its key... A local alternator rebuild shop should be able to help you out.
W123 Mods: 4 speed ** manual climate control ** '85 Kalitucky intake ** manual windows & full tint ** Euro headlights retrofit w/bixenon projectors ** 4 brake light mod ** Vogtland 50mm drop front & Lesjofors S600 drop rear springs ** 16" rims ** late w126 brake spindles, rotors & calipers ** full suspension rehab ** Bilstein HDs ** AL129X alternator & 1/0 starter and charging cables ** 300GD clutch/flywheel ** AFCO 80103N radiator & Earl's 41610 oil cooler ** custom block-off plate, remote oil filter & t-stat ** MW IP w/ tomnik's 6.5mm 'Holly' elements **
S124 Mods: 400E Rear subframe ** SL600 Brakes ** Late 300E 210mm diff ** SLK230 6 speed ** 17" CLK rims ** Vented RF Fender ** Facelift Hood, Headlights, and Lower Cladding **
OBK# 62
05-29-2010, 09:55 AM
#7
internally regulated, several outputs to choose from, and redly available.
imagine a custom bracket and the appropriate pulley would only be necessary...this is what I did when I installed a 12si (3wire) onto my toyota motor.
thanks,
manny
out of curiosity, has anyone adapted a chevy alternator?
internally regulated, several outputs to choose from, and redly available.
imagine a custom bracket and the appropriate pulley would only be necessary...this is what I did when I installed a 12si (3wire) onto my toyota motor.
thanks,
manny
07-10-2010, 06:53 PM
#8
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
As a teenager I delivered auto parts for a summer job. It seems like I delivered a GM alternator every day. The cores would come back with a lot of seized berings. I wouldn't put GM engineering anywhere near my car. For some reason GM thinks people have time on their hands to wait for a tow truck. Americans just don't understand paying a little more up front is cheaper in the end.
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
07-11-2010, 06:11 AM
#9
A dying battery worked the 37 yr old alt in my Sprint so hard that is gave up the ghost finally so I put in a Powermaster 140 amp and it has work flawlessly ever since... It even has survived through a crash where I rear ended a car and the battery went from behind the passenger headlight to on top of the air cleaner (engine still running), radiator core support hit the alt and scuffed and scratched the fan. And she still runs champion.
I think the problem is that people replace the normal parts that go bad with cheap china shit and expect them to last. Well they don't! Those people should be slapped. I avoid china whenever possible.
I guaranfuckintee you that most of those alts that you delivered and accepted as core weren't true GM pieces... Unless you were working at a dealer.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
07-11-2010, 06:11 AM #9I would have to disagree with you on that one...
A dying battery worked the 37 yr old alt in my Sprint so hard that is gave up the ghost finally so I put in a Powermaster 140 amp and it has work flawlessly ever since... It even has survived through a crash where I rear ended a car and the battery went from behind the passenger headlight to on top of the air cleaner (engine still running), radiator core support hit the alt and scuffed and scratched the fan. And she still runs champion.
I think the problem is that people replace the normal parts that go bad with cheap china shit and expect them to last. Well they don't! Those people should be slapped. I avoid china whenever possible.
I guaranfuckintee you that most of those alts that you delivered and accepted as core weren't true GM pieces... Unless you were working at a dealer.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
07-13-2010, 03:56 PM
#10
(07-11-2010, 06:11 AM)Captain America I would have to disagree with you on that one...
A dying battery worked the 37 yr old alt in my Sprint so hard that is gave up the ghost finally so I put in a Powermaster 140 amp and it has work flawlessly ever since... It even has survived through a crash where I rear ended a car and the battery went from behind the passenger headlight to on top of the air cleaner (engine still running), radiator core support hit the alt and scuffed and scratched the fan. And she still runs champion.
I think the problem is that people replace the normal parts that go bad with cheap china shit and expect them to last. Well they don't! Those people should be slapped. I avoid china whenever possible.
I guaranfuckintee you that most of those alts that you delivered and accepted as core weren't true GM pieces... Unless you were working at a dealer.
I worked at NAPA and they probably bought chinese stuff. But Powermaster, isn't that a lot nicer than what's OE in S-10's? I want one.
nice website by the way man
This post was last modified: 07-13-2010, 03:57 PM by rdirtycar.
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
(07-11-2010, 06:11 AM)Captain America I would have to disagree with you on that one...
A dying battery worked the 37 yr old alt in my Sprint so hard that is gave up the ghost finally so I put in a Powermaster 140 amp and it has work flawlessly ever since... It even has survived through a crash where I rear ended a car and the battery went from behind the passenger headlight to on top of the air cleaner (engine still running), radiator core support hit the alt and scuffed and scratched the fan. And she still runs champion.
I think the problem is that people replace the normal parts that go bad with cheap china shit and expect them to last. Well they don't! Those people should be slapped. I avoid china whenever possible.
I guaranfuckintee you that most of those alts that you delivered and accepted as core weren't true GM pieces... Unless you were working at a dealer.
I worked at NAPA and they probably bought chinese stuff. But Powermaster, isn't that a lot nicer than what's OE in S-10's? I want one.
nice website by the way man
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
07-13-2010, 05:56 PM
#11
You went to the RetroTek Speed website? Thanks... That's the place I work.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
Captain America
07-13-2010, 05:56 PM #11Yeah A Powermaster is hella nice and they are not that expensive either. And the one I have puts out 140amps. I think when the one in the Benz takes a dump I will look into trying to adapt one...
You went to the RetroTek Speed website? Thanks... That's the place I work.
1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag
AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....
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