new guy lots o questions STREET ROD STUFF
new guy lots o questions STREET ROD STUFF
so I got the deisel bug. I just got my cummins 4bt hot rod up and going, super fun little truck. I have been putting parts together to build my next rod. I have a chopped 1940 dodge truck cab laying around a om617 with auto trans, a jag rear and a ibeam axle..... My main question is, how much crap can I take off the engine????? Its got all kinds of vacume lines and hoses, valves.... I want to use the stock gearbox, it seems pretty much straight forward. I see people talking about different series pumps and modificatrions... What pump do I have???? what is the crazy throttle linkage on the top of my valve cover??? I really just want to clean it up, any help would be appreciated... JOEL
Just browse this site and others and you will have plenty of ideas, and maybe be inspired like I was
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
06-03-2010, 07:17 PM #2Welcome aboard! You most likely have the MW-pump and bigger elements are available for it = more fuel. The only hoses you need are for transmission shifting, engine shut off, and ALDA control if you have it. The linkage can be changed around, you can do some searching on this site for ideas. Some of the linkage is need for the bowden cable, some for cruise control, took mine off long ago.
Just browse this site and others and you will have plenty of ideas, and maybe be inspired like I was
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
ok so I dont know what a ALDA valve is..... The only thing going to the trans is a downshift cable, and some electronic crap I wont use. it has some sort of vacume valve on top at the rear of the pump, and a bunch of lines going to the egr setup. I would like to eliminate ALL of the vac stuff if possible. it is my understanding that the engine is a true mechanical unit, i should be able to run it bare, right???. I have been sitting on it for a couple of years, kinda waiting to finish a few other projects. I drove it around for acouple before pulling the drive train. I either need to find a trans yolk that can use a u-joint or I'll use the jag rear I have. I got about 150 hp out of my 4bt, I would like to get a bit more outa the benz engine.. All guidance on this build will be appreciated....
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
Rudolf_Diesel
06-03-2010, 10:12 PM #4The ALDA sits on top of the IP and limits fuel under low boost conditions. It has a line that runs from the IP to the back of the intake manifold near the fire wall. The transmission should have a cable and a vacuum line for reference/shifting. You can eliminate the EGR and the vacuum valves on top of the valve cover. You can pretty much run it "bare" with just the minimum needed to shut off the motor and shift trans. You can run a cable to control thr IP if you can rig the setup.
1982 300SD: 304,xxx Super M-pump with 7.5mm elements, 265 Nozzles, GT35 water cooled turbo, M90 Supercharger, A/W Intercooler, Serpentine drive belt, 3" SS exhaust with Magnaflow muffler, 240 breather, AEM dry Filter, Manual Boost Control, EGT / Boost / EMP gauges....Moved on to other projects
1995 F-350 7.3L PSD: 230,xxx 6.0 IC, DIY Stage 1 Injectors, 17* hpop, Tony Wildman Chip, John Wood Trans, 6.4L TC, 3" down pipe, 4" straight exhaust, 310 HP on wheel dyno - 8500# dually: 0-60 in 6.98
Suzuki Samurai: VW 1.9L TD, Trackick doubler transfer case (made by me) 5.8:1 transfer case gears, YJ springs front and rear with rear missing links, wheel base extended 14", diffs welded, some day a VNT.
ForcedInduction
06-04-2010, 05:39 AM
#5
The only essentials are the starter, glowplugs, vacuum control valve for the transmission and vacuum switch for the shutoff (can be manual; ball valve or switch like used in semis for air accessories). The engine doesn't need anything but air, fuel and throttle control rod/cable to operate once started.
yankneck696
06-04-2010, 05:59 AM #6There is an adapter yoke for the trans, somewhere. If it's an auto trans, you will need the switch that was on the throttle pedal, as it signals a downshift when ya floor it. ALDA, stop & trans vacuum signals. Cruise through the forums for a day & read every post to see what people are doing. I believe that 148 HP is around the max without changing elements.
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/no-m...t-783.html
I'd recommend reading through this thread for getting the most out of the stock inj pump.
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/ip-f...t-189.html
My Dad has a rat-rod 37 Plymouth truck with a 66 Fury 383 and 727 in it. Thats a fun ride! Would love to see some pics of your 40!
There are other great threads in here on info about intercoolers and upgrading injection pumps. I've learned a bunch in the last several months that I've been here just from searching through the forums.
I'm pretty sure that your trans will not shift correctly if the vacuum line isn't hooked up and adjusted correctly. My 300SD shifted like crap (soft and flaring between gears) until I got the vacuum signal adjusted correctly. Now I get nice firm shifts with no flaring, almost too firm if its on light throttle. If there was no vacuum signal, the trans would shift very harshly. It could be fun for a bit, but I suspect it would wear the trans quicker.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
This is the thread for eliminating the flex discs:
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/no-m...t-783.html
I'd recommend reading through this thread for getting the most out of the stock inj pump.
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/ip-f...t-189.html
My Dad has a rat-rod 37 Plymouth truck with a 66 Fury 383 and 727 in it. Thats a fun ride! Would love to see some pics of your 40!
There are other great threads in here on info about intercoolers and upgrading injection pumps. I've learned a bunch in the last several months that I've been here just from searching through the forums.
I'm pretty sure that your trans will not shift correctly if the vacuum line isn't hooked up and adjusted correctly. My 300SD shifted like crap (soft and flaring between gears) until I got the vacuum signal adjusted correctly. Now I get nice firm shifts with no flaring, almost too firm if its on light throttle. If there was no vacuum signal, the trans would shift very harshly. It could be fun for a bit, but I suspect it would wear the trans quicker.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
I recently installed an om617 into a Jeep cherokee. I am using a manual transmission so I can't help you with your vacuum woes. There is a question which I have that will help both of us though...
When using the original MB glow timer relay (seams like all om617's from early 80's have the same one). What is the exact function of the 4 wires which control it and there respective color code?
12v in run?
ground?
temp. sensor?
starter solenoid cut out?
I think these are the 4 functions of those control wires but I may be wrong.
thanks in advance
Cherobenz
06-04-2010, 03:29 PM #8Cool swap, I'm in tampa not too far...
I recently installed an om617 into a Jeep cherokee. I am using a manual transmission so I can't help you with your vacuum woes. There is a question which I have that will help both of us though...
When using the original MB glow timer relay (seams like all om617's from early 80's have the same one). What is the exact function of the 4 wires which control it and there respective color code?
12v in run?
ground?
temp. sensor?
starter solenoid cut out?
I think these are the 4 functions of those control wires but I may be wrong.
thanks in advance
![[Image: photo003.jpg]](http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff30/jcillch/photo003.jpg)
ugly, but goes like stink
super cool guys I appreciate all the good info. I cant find a vac line on my trans so I am going to look around it again. I just got to decide on a body. I got the 40 truck cab, but I also have a 36 desoto sedan. as far as my 4bt 40 ford
ugly, but goes like stink
I'll have to take a look again where that vacuum line hooks on at, I can't remember off the top of my head where it goes.
Here's a craptastic cell phone pic of my Dads 37 Plymouth. Took us 4+ years of building, then drove it to Bonneville Speedweek 3 years ago. I thought I had a pic of it covered in salt, but it's not here.
Cherobenz, I'll see if I can find the wiring info this weekend for you.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
Ugly, shmugly. I love it! Looks like a hell of a ride!
I'll have to take a look again where that vacuum line hooks on at, I can't remember off the top of my head where it goes.
Here's a craptastic cell phone pic of my Dads 37 Plymouth. Took us 4+ years of building, then drove it to Bonneville Speedweek 3 years ago. I thought I had a pic of it covered in salt, but it's not here.
Cherobenz, I'll see if I can find the wiring info this weekend for you.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
The vacuum line from the vacuum regulator goes to the vacuum modulator on the left side of the transmission. It will most likely be green (possibly black?), about 2" or so in diameter.
Cherobenz, here is the wiring according to Mitchell wiring diagram:
1) Red-Black is run-start (power) going to fuse box.
2) Violet is cranking signal. Goes to starting terminal on starter solenoid (also ties in with neutral safety switch).
3) Blue-White goes to pin 13 on the instrument cluster for the glowplug light.
4) Brown wire to temp sensor (ground)
Hope that helps you guys out!
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
For the injection pump ID: if where the injection lines attach to the pump has 2 nuts holding the delivery valve, it's an MW pump. If its a splined connection, it's a M pump.
The vacuum line from the vacuum regulator goes to the vacuum modulator on the left side of the transmission. It will most likely be green (possibly black?), about 2" or so in diameter.
Cherobenz, here is the wiring according to Mitchell wiring diagram:
1) Red-Black is run-start (power) going to fuse box.
2) Violet is cranking signal. Goes to starting terminal on starter solenoid (also ties in with neutral safety switch).
3) Blue-White goes to pin 13 on the instrument cluster for the glowplug light.
4) Brown wire to temp sensor (ground)
Hope that helps you guys out!
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
sweet holy fish heads..... so yeah the build got put on hold for a few months. I moved my weldy shop... So as for the benz-o-matic. I went a whole different path... I got a 23 ford bucket to stick it into... I built the frame and hung the rear in it. when I was moving the engine I dropped it and cracked my oil pan casting..... SADDNESS . I am thankfull to be able to weld... I have it back together now. I still want to use the stock auto trans. How would you recomend running the vacuum??? Can I just run it off the stock pump or do I need a vacume resevior?? Do I need to be able to adjust the vacuum from the pump??? motormounts look like they'll be easy enough. Also What is the weight of the engine? I need to figure out my spring weight.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
Should be able to run the vacuum from the stock pump, I don't think a reservoir would be needed. The vacuum regulator mounted on the injection pump regulates and changes the vacuum signal to the transmission. The vacuum regulator is adjustable, as is the modulator at the transmission. If I remember correctly, the 617 engine weighs just about 570 pounds.
82 300SD aka The Flyin Pumpkin (Gone): 7.5mm super M-pump, T3 60 trim turbo, Coldish air intake, A/W intercooler, propane injection, SW Boost and EGT gauges, Monark 265 nozzles, ported/polished cylinder head.
84 Euro 300D 4 sp: White with black trunk and hood. Blue cloth interior. Manual everything. 300DT front swaybar. C320 17" wheels. Now with the Flyin Pumpkins engine!
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