STD Maintenance General where is the oil pressure switch OM617.912

where is the oil pressure switch OM617.912

where is the oil pressure switch OM617.912

 
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BRABUS
GT2559V

182
06-15-2010, 05:56 PM #1
Hello
I think my oil pressure switch is stopped working,
Where can i locate it on the engine?
The engine is a 617.912 non turbo(83 w123 300D)
BRABUS
06-15-2010, 05:56 PM #1

Hello
I think my oil pressure switch is stopped working,
Where can i locate it on the engine?
The engine is a 617.912 non turbo(83 w123 300D)

ForcedInduction
Banned

3,628
06-15-2010, 06:02 PM #2
There is no switch.
ForcedInduction
06-15-2010, 06:02 PM #2

There is no switch.

BRABUS
GT2559V

182
06-15-2010, 06:18 PM #3
(06-15-2010, 06:02 PM)ForcedInduction There is no switch.

? what is giving the oil pressure gauge its reading signal then? oil line straight to the gauge?
BRABUS
06-15-2010, 06:18 PM #3

(06-15-2010, 06:02 PM)ForcedInduction There is no switch.

? what is giving the oil pressure gauge its reading signal then? oil line straight to the gauge?

winmutt
bitbanger

3,468
06-15-2010, 06:42 PM #4
(06-15-2010, 06:18 PM)BRABUS
(06-15-2010, 06:02 PM)ForcedInduction There is no switch.

? what is giving the oil pressure gauge its reading signal then? oil line straight to the gauge?

Yup. And rarely fails without a massive leak.

1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
winmutt
06-15-2010, 06:42 PM #4

(06-15-2010, 06:18 PM)BRABUS
(06-15-2010, 06:02 PM)ForcedInduction There is no switch.

? what is giving the oil pressure gauge its reading signal then? oil line straight to the gauge?

Yup. And rarely fails without a massive leak.


1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42

BRABUS
GT2559V

182
06-15-2010, 06:44 PM #5
this oil hose. is it connected to the downside of the oil filter housing?
Can hook up another oil line there to feed the turbo oil?

Best regards
BRABUS
06-15-2010, 06:44 PM #5

this oil hose. is it connected to the downside of the oil filter housing?
Can hook up another oil line there to feed the turbo oil?

Best regards

Alastair E
Moderator?--Nah...

266
06-20-2010, 04:03 AM #6
Yes, this is where you can take off an oil supply for a turbo....

But, the turbo motor has a pipe fitted somewhere already anyway--why add another!

Cant fit Tubo to N/A engine--So they say...N/A engine just Isnt strong enough--so they say...

However, its been done with varying degrees of success. There were even kits supplied a good few years ago--I was in contact with a guy some time ago who had one fitted, apparently even 'approved' by M.B, so he said--Not sure how though....

Main issues are that the Pistons of N/A engine have no oil-jet cooling or the cast-in oil cooling channels in the crown, so can become overheated, they are also not as 'robust' as the correct pistons.
Other engine differences include sodium-filled exhaust-valves and different pre-chambers for the Turbo motor

If you're going to add Turbo, best add an EGR gauge upstream of it as well and keep those EGT temps down. Dont go much above 10 PSI boost, and likewise, dont adjust pump fuelling too much....
--

[Image: 300TDnoplate.jpg]
Alastair E
06-20-2010, 04:03 AM #6

Yes, this is where you can take off an oil supply for a turbo....

But, the turbo motor has a pipe fitted somewhere already anyway--why add another!

Cant fit Tubo to N/A engine--So they say...N/A engine just Isnt strong enough--so they say...

However, its been done with varying degrees of success. There were even kits supplied a good few years ago--I was in contact with a guy some time ago who had one fitted, apparently even 'approved' by M.B, so he said--Not sure how though....

Main issues are that the Pistons of N/A engine have no oil-jet cooling or the cast-in oil cooling channels in the crown, so can become overheated, they are also not as 'robust' as the correct pistons.
Other engine differences include sodium-filled exhaust-valves and different pre-chambers for the Turbo motor

If you're going to add Turbo, best add an EGR gauge upstream of it as well and keep those EGT temps down. Dont go much above 10 PSI boost, and likewise, dont adjust pump fuelling too much....
--


[Image: 300TDnoplate.jpg]

rdirtycar
flash gordon

145
07-02-2010, 04:45 PM #7
wouldn't adding a tee here throw off your oil pressure reading?

1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
rdirtycar
07-02-2010, 04:45 PM #7

wouldn't adding a tee here throw off your oil pressure reading?


1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo

Captain America
Boostin' & Roostin'

2,221
07-09-2010, 01:38 PM #8
Not unless there was a huge leak... Oil pressure should be the same everywhere except after the restrictor at the turbo oil inlet. The only thing that would cause an incorrect reading is if the Tee was inline to the gauge.... If the "thing" the Tee was feeding was using more oil than the guage line could supply, then you would see the pressure drop on the gauge.
This post was last modified: 07-09-2010, 01:39 PM by Captain America.


1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

Captain America
07-09-2010, 01:38 PM #8

Not unless there was a huge leak... Oil pressure should be the same everywhere except after the restrictor at the turbo oil inlet. The only thing that would cause an incorrect reading is if the Tee was inline to the gauge.... If the "thing" the Tee was feeding was using more oil than the guage line could supply, then you would see the pressure drop on the gauge.



1982 300D Turbo ... 3,6xxlbs, No fan, No AC, Hood Stack, No ALDA, No rear bumper and stuffed front, A/W Intercooled, Injectors by Greezer and HUGE Pre-Chambers with help from OM616 & Simpler=Better, Fuel Cranked up, 60 Trim Compressor wheel, EGT, EMP, Boost 50" Rigid Radius bar on roof Aux tank for a total of 48 Gal Of Diesel! Odyssey PC-1750 Battery in trunk, 27"x8.5"/R14 Maxxis BigHorn Mud Terrains, In June '14 issue of Off Road Mag

AX15 Jeep Trans swap in progress....

rdirtycar
flash gordon

145
07-10-2010, 10:53 AM #9
(07-09-2010, 01:38 PM)Captain America Not unless there was a huge leak... Oil pressure should be the same everywhere except after the restrictor at the turbo oil inlet. The only thing that would cause an incorrect reading is if the Tee was inline to the gauge.... If the "thing" the Tee was feeding was using more oil than the guage line could supply, then you would see the pressure drop on the gauge.

Concur? Concur.

1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
rdirtycar
07-10-2010, 10:53 AM #9

(07-09-2010, 01:38 PM)Captain America Not unless there was a huge leak... Oil pressure should be the same everywhere except after the restrictor at the turbo oil inlet. The only thing that would cause an incorrect reading is if the Tee was inline to the gauge.... If the "thing" the Tee was feeding was using more oil than the guage line could supply, then you would see the pressure drop on the gauge.

Concur? Concur.


1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo

ForcedInduction
Banned

3,628
07-10-2010, 03:10 PM #10
Yep. Hydraulics means pressure is the same everywhere, measuring after a restriction will change the pressure and adding a consumer to the line won't do much of anything to the display. The flow through the T would have to be almost open ended to make a impact on the dash gauge.
Also the dash gauge displays less than half of the systems regulated pressure (7bar), about the only thing that could flow enough to lower the displayed pressure while driving is a broken oil cooler hose.
This post was last modified: 07-10-2010, 03:12 PM by ForcedInduction.
ForcedInduction
07-10-2010, 03:10 PM #10

Yep. Hydraulics means pressure is the same everywhere, measuring after a restriction will change the pressure and adding a consumer to the line won't do much of anything to the display. The flow through the T would have to be almost open ended to make a impact on the dash gauge.
Also the dash gauge displays less than half of the systems regulated pressure (7bar), about the only thing that could flow enough to lower the displayed pressure while driving is a broken oil cooler hose.

 
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