86 300SDL idle and valve tick
86 300SDL idle and valve tick
TotalDiesel
05-26-2010, 08:23 AM #1Hey lately I have been having a problem with engine. The car idles really smoothly at times like a gasser and sometimes itll rumble really loud like a cummins. the idle rpm doesnt change either way, the sound is just much louder. and also, My car valves tick sometimes. sometimes its a quiet tick, sometimes a loud tick, and sometimes no tick. it does this cold and warm. I was wondering if its possibly a lubrication problem in the hydraulic valve tappets. I am told that they need to be replaced and they cost $25 but What tools are required to repair? If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated. I also use lucas upper cylinder lubricant and power service diesel additive during every fill up.
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
I think the 617 has solid lifters. I have that tick too. it's giving me a tick. It's definitely one specific thing ticking. It usually goes away when I let off the gas and stops sometimes for why i don't know, cold or hot. Is it a lifter or valve? or injector? It goes away sometimes and sometimes I hear it down the freeway. It is getting worse. Please let it not be a connecting rod wrist pin or worse...... Is this answered somewhere else on the forum and called something other than a tick? The valves were done about 5k ago.
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
The 603 has hydraulic lifters and dont need to be adjusted, Im trying to figure out why my hydraulic lifters are making so much noise. you should just re-adjust your valves to specs and you will be good. unless your cam is bad.
TotalDiesel
06-04-2010, 09:36 AM #4The 617 has mechanical lifters. Directly contacting the cam. The valves on the 617 should be adjusted every 15,000 Miles.
The 603 has hydraulic lifters and dont need to be adjusted, Im trying to figure out why my hydraulic lifters are making so much noise. you should just re-adjust your valves to specs and you will be good. unless your cam is bad.
best solution/hard job You can remove them dissemble them clean them and reassemble them or replace them with new! lot's of work
Or you can try BG109 with fresh oil!!!! and run it for 200 miles or so let it get hot/cool several times and do another oil change! It really helps compression by getting the gunk off of the rings and cleans out a lot of crap! It helped my car!!!
I've seen it raise compression 40psi in a land cruiser engine at a shop we worked at
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
06-04-2010, 12:31 PM #6On hydraulic lifter's If they get junk in the tiny oil port they can collapse/tick!
best solution/hard job You can remove them dissemble them clean them and reassemble them or replace them with new! lot's of work
Or you can try BG109 with fresh oil!!!! and run it for 200 miles or so let it get hot/cool several times and do another oil change! It really helps compression by getting the gunk off of the rings and cleans out a lot of crap! It helped my car!!!
I've seen it raise compression 40psi in a land cruiser engine at a shop we worked at
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
06-04-2010, 08:04 PM #7I'm looking at an 1987 300sdl what's your opinion on this car vs the om617 powered w126's?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
sounds like I need bg109 on staff too. who makes it?
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
it must have been a sticky valve. I haven't heard it now driving around town for hours. I fell in love with this car and the turbo didn't even work until I changed the oil three times in a day and added a quart of mystery oil. My grandfather used to put the stuff in his cerial. Now I see why.
sounds like I need bg109 on staff too. who makes it?
1983 light ivory/palomino 300d turbo
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
06-05-2010, 11:13 PM #10BG makes it like bg44k
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
I initially thought it was an injector issue, took them out, and had a mechanic with the proper machine clean them, and put them back in. The noise didn't go away, although my fuel economy increased quite noticably.
I'm now thinking it is a hydraulic lifter issue. They do wear out and the engine does have about 215,000 miles on it. It was very clear that the injectors had never been cleaned in the entire life of the vehicle.
Every time I have changed my oil, I have noticed there were never any metal shavings or such in the engine oil, but a lot of carbon deposits and soot is in it(which I think is normal).
An overboost protection sensor got clogged with soot and my turbo stopped functioing afterward(the turbo still spools, but it now audible, and now adds no power to the engine). I'm waiting on parts to arrive so that I can remedy this.
What store would have BG109, and how much should I put in the engine oil?
The Toecutter
06-12-2010, 04:20 AM #11I have a similar problem with my 300 SDL, but I don't know the source of the noise. It is a sharp "tapping" noise; it sometimes goes away when the engine has warmed up. The head gasket shows no signs of issues, OTOH, and the engine doesn't seem to be consuming oil at any noticable rate.
I initially thought it was an injector issue, took them out, and had a mechanic with the proper machine clean them, and put them back in. The noise didn't go away, although my fuel economy increased quite noticably.
I'm now thinking it is a hydraulic lifter issue. They do wear out and the engine does have about 215,000 miles on it. It was very clear that the injectors had never been cleaned in the entire life of the vehicle.
Every time I have changed my oil, I have noticed there were never any metal shavings or such in the engine oil, but a lot of carbon deposits and soot is in it(which I think is normal).
An overboost protection sensor got clogged with soot and my turbo stopped functioing afterward(the turbo still spools, but it now audible, and now adds no power to the engine). I'm waiting on parts to arrive so that I can remedy this.
What store would have BG109, and how much should I put in the engine oil?
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
My 87 has this issue as well. Sometimes it will go away/lessen at idle particularly when the engine is hot. I might try some MMO today, I'll spend a few bucks on snake oil before I have to get into the cam/tappets.
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
Could this be indicative of a bad rod bearing or a bad lifter somewhere?
The Toecutter
06-13-2010, 06:13 PM #13One thing I've noticed is that my oil pressure gauge sometimes bounces up and down when stopped and at idle; it doesn't always do this at idle, perhaps about 50% of the time when the engine hasn't warmed up, and almost never after it has warmed up.
Could this be indicative of a bad rod bearing or a bad lifter somewhere?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
06-13-2010, 07:15 PM #14I'd suspect the oil pressure relief valve has some gunk in it?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(06-13-2010, 06:13 PM)The Toecutter One thing I've noticed is that my oil pressure gauge sometimes bounces up and down when stopped and at idle; it doesn't always do this at idle, perhaps about 50% of the time when the engine hasn't warmed up, and almost never after it has warmed up.
Could this be indicative of a bad rod bearing or a bad lifter somewhere?
The oil pressure sender is known to go faulty on these. Mine never reads below 2.8 except when off. Its a $50 part on mine. Probably going to pull it next oil change and see if can be cleaned. Also could be the gauge (atleast on my 87 om606).
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(06-13-2010, 06:13 PM)The Toecutter One thing I've noticed is that my oil pressure gauge sometimes bounces up and down when stopped and at idle; it doesn't always do this at idle, perhaps about 50% of the time when the engine hasn't warmed up, and almost never after it has warmed up.
Could this be indicative of a bad rod bearing or a bad lifter somewhere?
The oil pressure sender is known to go faulty on these. Mine never reads below 2.8 except when off. Its a $50 part on mine. Probably going to pull it next oil change and see if can be cleaned. Also could be the gauge (atleast on my 87 om606).
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1985 300D Weekend/Camping/Dog car
1974 L508D Motoroam Monarch "NightMare"
OBK #42
(06-13-2010, 07:15 PM)willbhere4u I'd suspect the oil pressure relief valve has some gunk in it?
Perhaps. I'd never considered this possibility. Would the BG product alluded to in this to
(06-14-2010, 07:57 AM)winmutt(06-13-2010, 06:13 PM)The Toecutter One thing I've noticed is that my oil pressure gauge sometimes bounces up and down when stopped and at idle; it doesn't always do this at idle, perhaps about 50% of the time when the engine hasn't warmed up, and almost never after it has warmed up.
Could this be indicative of a bad rod bearing or a bad lifter somewhere?
The oil pressure sender is known to go faulty on these. Mine never reads below 2.8 except when off. Its a $50 part on mine. Probably going to pull it next oil change and see if can be cleaned. Also could be the gauge (atleast on my 87 om606).
My guage typically reads ~1.5-2 at idle and is usually stable and 3 under any throttle at all. When it bounces up and down at idle, it usually deviates about 0.2 with each bounce.
I doubt an oil pressure sender or gauge would have anything to do with that 'ticking' noise though, and the raising and lowering of the gauge made me consider all sorts of horrific problems, most of which were unlikely due to the relatively low amount of miles on that engine.
I'll have to give it a look. Where on the car can I locate this part?
The Toecutter
06-16-2010, 03:27 PM #16(06-13-2010, 07:15 PM)willbhere4u I'd suspect the oil pressure relief valve has some gunk in it?
Perhaps. I'd never considered this possibility. Would the BG product alluded to in this to
(06-14-2010, 07:57 AM)winmutt(06-13-2010, 06:13 PM)The Toecutter One thing I've noticed is that my oil pressure gauge sometimes bounces up and down when stopped and at idle; it doesn't always do this at idle, perhaps about 50% of the time when the engine hasn't warmed up, and almost never after it has warmed up.
Could this be indicative of a bad rod bearing or a bad lifter somewhere?
The oil pressure sender is known to go faulty on these. Mine never reads below 2.8 except when off. Its a $50 part on mine. Probably going to pull it next oil change and see if can be cleaned. Also could be the gauge (atleast on my 87 om606).
My guage typically reads ~1.5-2 at idle and is usually stable and 3 under any throttle at all. When it bounces up and down at idle, it usually deviates about 0.2 with each bounce.
I doubt an oil pressure sender or gauge would have anything to do with that 'ticking' noise though, and the raising and lowering of the gauge made me consider all sorts of horrific problems, most of which were unlikely due to the relatively low amount of miles on that engine.
I'll have to give it a look. Where on the car can I locate this part?
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
06-16-2010, 09:05 PM #17The oil pressure regulator should be part of the oil pump I would give BG109 a shot before anything else for both problems
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(06-16-2010, 09:05 PM)willbhere4u The oil pressure regulator should be part of the oil pump I would give BG109 a shot before anything else for both problems
Where can I purchase BG109? None of the auto stores in my area appear to have it, but I may just be looking in the wrong places. When I do purchase it, will there be proper instructions on how to use it?
The Toecutter
06-16-2010, 11:19 PM #18(06-16-2010, 09:05 PM)willbhere4u The oil pressure regulator should be part of the oil pump I would give BG109 a shot before anything else for both problems
Where can I purchase BG109? None of the auto stores in my area appear to have it, but I may just be looking in the wrong places. When I do purchase it, will there be proper instructions on how to use it?
I usually drive the car around for 200 miles or so over a period of a week! doing lots of small trips and then do another oil change/filter and that's it!
one of the auto parts stores is probably a BG dealer the shop I use to work at was a dealer as was the NAPA in town
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
willbhere4u
06-17-2010, 09:20 AM #19You have to do an oil change and put it in with the fresh oil and you want to let the engine get up full temp and cool off several time's
I usually drive the car around for 200 miles or so over a period of a week! doing lots of small trips and then do another oil change/filter and that's it!
one of the auto parts stores is probably a BG dealer the shop I use to work at was a dealer as was the NAPA in town
1987 300SDL 6spd manual om606.962 swap project
1985 300td euro 5spd wagon running
(06-17-2010, 09:20 AM)willbhere4u You have to do an oil change and put it in with the fresh oil and you want to let the engine get up full temp and cool off several time's
I usually drive the car around for 200 miles or so over a period of a week! doing lots of small trips and then do another oil change/filter and that's it!
one of the auto parts stores is probably a BG dealer the shop I use to work at was a dealer as was the NAPA in town
Thanks. I'm going to give that a try with my next oil change. Should the noise not go away, I will look into methods to test whether my hydraulic lifters are properly functioning or not(compression test?).
Also, are there diagrams available on all of the engine parts of the 300 SDL, and if so, could you post the link?
The Toecutter
06-18-2010, 04:58 AM #20(06-17-2010, 09:20 AM)willbhere4u You have to do an oil change and put it in with the fresh oil and you want to let the engine get up full temp and cool off several time's
I usually drive the car around for 200 miles or so over a period of a week! doing lots of small trips and then do another oil change/filter and that's it!
one of the auto parts stores is probably a BG dealer the shop I use to work at was a dealer as was the NAPA in town
Thanks. I'm going to give that a try with my next oil change. Should the noise not go away, I will look into methods to test whether my hydraulic lifters are properly functioning or not(compression test?).
Also, are there diagrams available on all of the engine parts of the 300 SDL, and if so, could you post the link?
(06-17-2010, 09:20 AM)willbhere4u You have to do an oil change and put it in with the fresh oil and you want to let the engine get up full temp and cool off several time's
I usually drive the car around for 200 miles or so over a period of a week! doing lots of small trips and then do another oil change/filter and that's it!
The instructions on the can say to let the engine warm up, then run it at 1200 rpm for 10 minutes, then replace the oil. I was told by the mechanic that sold it that driving the car for an extended period of time could ruin the bearings; granted, these diesels are built much stronger than normal engines, but should I follow the instructions on the can? If I do so, will it miss some of the sludge buildup as opposed to following your method?
This engine has probably never been cleaned in this manner.
Also, is there a purpose to using fresh oil before placing the 109 into it?
Quote:one of the auto parts stores is probably a BG dealer the shop I use to work at was a dealer as was the NAPA in town
It took me a few score of phone calls/visits to dealerships and stores to find someone who actually sold it. I found lots of places that carried it, but they refused to sell it as they wanted customers to pay for them to use it...
The Toecutter
08-25-2010, 08:08 PM #21(06-17-2010, 09:20 AM)willbhere4u You have to do an oil change and put it in with the fresh oil and you want to let the engine get up full temp and cool off several time's
I usually drive the car around for 200 miles or so over a period of a week! doing lots of small trips and then do another oil change/filter and that's it!
The instructions on the can say to let the engine warm up, then run it at 1200 rpm for 10 minutes, then replace the oil. I was told by the mechanic that sold it that driving the car for an extended period of time could ruin the bearings; granted, these diesels are built much stronger than normal engines, but should I follow the instructions on the can? If I do so, will it miss some of the sludge buildup as opposed to following your method?
This engine has probably never been cleaned in this manner.
Also, is there a purpose to using fresh oil before placing the 109 into it?
Quote:one of the auto parts stores is probably a BG dealer the shop I use to work at was a dealer as was the NAPA in town
It took me a few score of phone calls/visits to dealerships and stores to find someone who actually sold it. I found lots of places that carried it, but they refused to sell it as they wanted customers to pay for them to use it...
I know that not all of the gunk is gone. The engine's 'clicking' noise is still there, but it is not as loud as it used to be. The oil pressure gauge no longer bounces. I'm going to change my filter about once a month(the synthetic oil by itself helps remove sludge, but it's not as effective at it as BG109 per unit of time that the engine is run), and when it's time for another oil change, I'm going to put the BG109 into the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, run the car under the same conditions, drain the BG109/oil mix, and then put in new oil and a new filter.
After a few tries, the gunk will eventually all be gone. The stuff does work, but not as much as I'd hoped. I was a bit afraid to drive 200 miles on the stuff in a series of short trips though... but that might possibly have loosened everything.
The Toecutter
08-29-2010, 04:21 PM #22I finally ran the stuf in my engine. I used a new filter and new Lubriguard 15W40 oil with the BG109. I let it idle until warm(~80C), then ran it for 30 minutes at 2000 rpm. I let the car cool down, and did the same thing the next day. While the engine temperature was still hot, I drained the Lubriguard oil, and it was pitch black. I changed the filter after draining the oil/BG109 mixture, and then put in my good oil, the Mobil1 15W50 full synthetic.
I know that not all of the gunk is gone. The engine's 'clicking' noise is still there, but it is not as loud as it used to be. The oil pressure gauge no longer bounces. I'm going to change my filter about once a month(the synthetic oil by itself helps remove sludge, but it's not as effective at it as BG109 per unit of time that the engine is run), and when it's time for another oil change, I'm going to put the BG109 into the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, run the car under the same conditions, drain the BG109/oil mix, and then put in new oil and a new filter.
After a few tries, the gunk will eventually all be gone. The stuff does work, but not as much as I'd hoped. I was a bit afraid to drive 200 miles on the stuff in a series of short trips though... but that might possibly have loosened everything.
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